DIY all-sky cam?

[ChrisLX200]

At least you caught some   I've yet to get my cam set up.

Which software are you using Chris?

It's called HandyAVI. I'm looking at alternatives now, and I bought a new Analog>digital interface with hardware H.264 compression onboard so I can just record the whole night and worry about finding meteors later.

ChrisH

[Gina]

I'm currently using PHD2 but I'd have thought there was something better.

I had an idea for making the spring.  I have some piano wire that I got to clean the 3D printer nozzle.  It just about works with the motor running on 5v but a lighter weight spring would be better.  I'll order some finer piano wire.

Later... ordered some no.1 piano wire 0.01" (0.25mm) due Thursday.

[JamesF]

I'm currently using PHD2 but I'd have thought there was something better.

Which camera are you using at the moment, GIna?

James

[Gina]

QHY5

[JamesF]

QHY5

That's not so bad then.  It's relatively widely supported.  What do you need the capture application to do that the usual suspects don't?

James

[Gina]

That's not so bad then.  It's relatively widely supported.  What do you need the capture application to do that the usual suspects don't?

James

Nothing AFAIK, it was Chris having problems.  I haven't got round to trying various software yet but I will do in due course.  ATM I'm sorting out the hardware.  Everything takes time   Particularly when I'm multitasking with several other projects

[JamesF]

Nothing AFAIK, it was Chris having problems.  I haven't got round to trying various software yet but I will do in due course.  ATM I'm sorting out the hardware.  Everything takes time   Particularly when I'm multitasking with several other projects

Ah, right.  My apologies.  I misunderstood  I thought you were looking for a possible alternative to phd2, in which case given some dark frame handling, oacapture would probably do the job for you.  That's perhaps not much help to Chris though

James

[Gina]

Thank you anyway James

[Gina]

Think I may have damaged my plastic dome   In sealing the dome to the rim with glue I got some on the dome and it's misted up a bit in one area.  Remains to be seen how bad it is.  I did wonder if there might be any way of polishing it without making it worse.

[JamesF]

I was pondering further on the software side last night.

A few changes to the UI and I could have my code do dark frame creation, dark subtraction and just have it save one frame per unit time either to an avi file or as a TIFF image (TIFF probably makes more sense in this instance).

A few more changes after that and I could split the UI from the hardware side so the former could run in the house and the latter in the obsy, either saving the images on the machine in the obsy or on the machine in the house.

James

[JamesF]

Think I may have damaged my plastic dome   In sealing the dome to the rim with glue I got some on the dome and it's misted up a bit in one area.  Remains to be seen how bad it is.  I did wonder if there might be any way of polishing it without making it worse.

Is there an area you can test polishing on?  I've heard (though never tried it myself) that toothpaste can be effective for polishing plastic as most toothpastes are very fine abrasives.

James

[Gina]

Is there an area you can test polishing on?  I've heard (though never tried it myself) that toothpaste can be effective for polishing plastic as most toothpastes are very fine abrasives.

James

Yes, the area round the rim will be below the imaging FOV.  Than kyou for the suggestion - I'll try it.

Meanwhile, I've ordered a cheap CCTV dome casing which might work.  The current dome had a removable internal mask covering the area not used for viewing.  This new one just might be the same and would do the job.  If not I can use it to waterproof or dust proof one of my smaller CCTV cameras.

External Enclosure Housing Case Camera

[pete_l]

Think I may have damaged my plastic dome   In sealing the dome to the rim with glue I got some on the dome and it's misted up a bit in one area.  Remains to be seen how bad it is.  I did wonder if there might be any way of polishing it without making it worse.

You can polish faded perspex headlights.

The technique is to use 1000 and 2000 grade wet'n'dry and then a final buffing with Rustin's Burnishing Cream.  (sadly it only buffs plastic, not people )

Though I doubt you'd get it optically perfect, it should still be usable.

P.S. Gluing the dome? Will it stand the hot/cold cycling: up to ++50°C inside the dome in the summer on a daily basis.

P.P.S  Have you considered a UV protective coating on the dome. Something like this?

[Gina]

I was pondering further on the software side last night.

A few changes to the UI and I could have my code do dark frame creation, dark subtraction and just have it save one frame per unit time either to an avi file or as a TIFF image (TIFF probably makes more sense in this instance).

A few more changes after that and I could split the UI from the hardware side so the former could run in the house and the latter in the obsy, either saving the images on the machine in the obsy or on the machine in the house.

James

That would be good - I could use the software on one of my spare Linux boxes   Thank you

[Gina]

Tried toothpaste, and it works   It doesn't mist the plastic and I tried it on the misted area and have improved it   It'll probably need quite a lot of work to clear if fully though.

[Gina]

You can polish faded perspex headlights.

The technique is to use 1000 and 2000 grade wet'n'dry and then a final buffing with Rustin's Burnishing Cream.  (sadly it only buffs plastic, not people )

Though I doubt you'd get it optically perfect, it should still be usable.

P.S. Gluing the dome? Will it stand the hot/cold cycling: up to ++50°C inside the dome in the summer on a daily basis.

P.P.S  Have you considered a UV protective coating on the dome. Something like this?

Thank you Pete    Another thing I could try

The glue is inside the rim and yes it should withstand 50°C.

Would spraying on a UV protective coating not spoil the surface optically?

[pete_l]

Would spraying on a UV protective coating not spoil the surface optically?

I don't know - it's something you'd need to try.

However, the plastic that's used on headlights (now we're not allowed to have glass ones any more) has a UV protective coating and the polycarbonate used for conservatory roofs does too - on the side with the blue polythene peel-off sheet. Without those treatments the plastic goes cloudy quite quickly in sunlight. A glass dome won't suffer from the effects of UV - it's only plastic ones that have a problem.

If you have the perspex all-sky dome from TS (about 35 euro), you'd hope that for that price it would be UV proof. Hell! for that price I'd expect it to be sprayed with a liberal cover of cloud-repellent.

[Gina]

Time will tell

[Gina]

Getting there slowly   Support bracket and camera on ali tube.  The support brack only just fitted on my 3D printer platform

[Gina]

Now screwing brackets onto the hardwood corner post and come indoors to get my battery drill for pilot holes   Should have the camera working in its proper position shortly in daylight mode.

The LDRs came this morning so may get the night mode working tonight.

[Horwig]

Gina, Have you tried Brasso on the perspex, seem to recall it polishes up perspex a dream

Huw

[Gina]

Gina, Have you tried Brasso on the perspex, seem to recall it polishes up perspex a dream

Huw

No, not tried that - thanks for the suggestion

[Gina]

All mounted and working - but needs focussing   And turning so that north is up.

[Gina]

Two more images.  Focused without dome and with dome in place and turned to put north upwards.

[JamesF]

The dome seems to scatter light a little and reduce contrast as a result, but I wouldn't say it was hideously bad at all.  A glass dome might be better, but I don't think I'd regard it as essential at this point.

James