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Flocking my 200p


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Afternnon all.

After a search on this site regarding flocking a company kept coming up called "Lyra Optics" who seem to be an importer for Prostart Flockboard. I understand this does not require glueing or sticking as it moulds itself to the inside of the scope.

Now I have no intention to take the scope to bits, so I was just wondering if flocking even two thirds of it would be beneficial, I.e, from the primary mirror as high up as I can without cutting the flockboard?

Or would I be best doing that then a small section directly opposite the viewer/secondary mirror?

Regards,

Darren.

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The most diference I found was when I started using a black cloth dust cover on the primary mirror end. I was getting some stray light from the street lamps reflected on the pavement and on to the edges of the primary.

A dew shield will also prevent light coming in from the top. With those, flocking isn't that important, because there won't be stray light in the tube, to begin with.

Flocking the area oposite the focuser will also help but there is no need to flock the entire tube.

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If part flocking, I would opt for opposite the eyepiece. Also, as Paulo says, have a good look at the primary mirror end, any stray light reflected up from this position will be seen by the secondary mirror and then translated to the eyepiece.

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If you don't want to flock the entire tube the most important part is to flock the bottom end of the tube around the primary mirror to stop the reflected light coming from the bottom of the tube and washing over the surface of the mirror which can really reduce contrast..

There is this thread where I flocked an SCT using Flockboard, and you can see the difference it makes.

http://stargazerslounge.com/diy-astronomer/155372-protostar-flockboard.html

John

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I only last week flocked my 200p dob with the .030 flockboard. http://stargazerslounge.com/beginners-help-advice/153480-flockboard.html It cost £36 for enough to do the entire tube. I bought the flockboard direct from the states as it worked out a bit cheaper. It is a great product and really easy to work with but you will need to remove at least one mirror to fit it.

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The .030 flockboard is cut from a roll 21" wide. It takes roughly 30" to go around the circumference of the 200p once allowing for the overlap so it takes two 30" pieces to cover the overall length of the ota. :)

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the basic idea is the cover anything that is or may be in the light cone. anything not in the light cone is irrelevant largely.

I have always done all of my tubes as aesthetically I feel it's better.

6 inches round the bottom of the tube and either side opposite of the central focuser position will be fine.

a dew shield helps for sure and I made one of those 'cloth caps' for next to nothing for my 16" from double layers of black weed matting, sewn to shape.

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