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Daz Type-R

Just finished modding my dob base.

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A bit off topic but if you are modding the base with the intentions of using a wixey / setting circles, then a set of levellers / wheels help the accuracy and ease of setting up

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For anybody else who had the problem of the washer and half nut sitting higher than the lazy susan, a quick fix is to put a penny under the lazy susan then screw it down. Works a treat

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To keep the lazy susan flat on the surface, I just marked where the washer sat and then carefully excavated about 2mm with a chisel.

Easy to do and doesn't need to be neat as not visible once re-assembled.

...and saves 8p as well!

Edited by Kropster
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On 1/24/2014 at 15:49, hobbes22 said:

Lazy Susan and other parts ordered. :)

When your done, run a bit of door insulation round the outside... It makes it a tiny bit quiter and keeps most of the dust away from the ball race

Edited by knobby
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Sorry newbie question, but would this mod pay dividends on my Skywatcher 130P Flextube? or is it not really big/heavy enough to make a difference?

Andrew

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Sorry newbie question, but would this mod pay dividends on my Skywatcher 130P Flextube? or is it not really big/heavy enough to make a difference?

Andrew

Probably no need . there are some threads about regarding modifying the heritage 130 dob.

I'm glad I found this thread again , wanted the centre bolt info again .

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Sorry newbie question, but would this mod pay dividends on my Skywatcher 130P Flextube? or is it not really big/heavy enough to make a difference?

Andrew

Probably no need . there are some threads about regarding modifying the heritage 130 dob.

I'm glad I found this thread again , wanted the centre bolt info again .

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apologies to dig up an old thread, I have successfully modded mine today using this method, only issue i had was the centre side panel bolts from the top plate uprights were scraping when i'd bolted everything back together, rectified this by craft knifing out a little of the chip board of the middle bolt so it sat flush with the surface. took about 30 mins all in all, didn't draw the quarter lines just used a tape to measure the offset from the inner edges of the bearing and it's not so much easier to use the base instead of nudging back and forth.

i've got a few of the sliders left if anyone needs them drop me a pm and i'll pop them in the post

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I know this is an old thread  but on the original post it says DO NOT use 2" slide giides. Why is this?

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38 minutes ago, Chefgage said:

I know this is an old thread  but on the original post it says DO NOT use 2" slide giides. Why is this?

Think its to do with clearance from other screws in the base...

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Just wondered because you could put the spacers wherever you wanted so the size would not matter unless i am missing something??

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Hi,

I suggested the 1" ones purely so they did not catch on the screws while hold the OTA frame in place.  You can use 2" ones if you want but you will have to move them about with trial and error, if it catches some screws then it won't turn!

HTH?

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Finally got round to modding my dob with the lazy susan bearing. I found I did not need the slide guides, by adjusting the center nut and bolt  I can get the right amound of tension needed to make the base not spin too freely.

I also stuck a sticky foam pad on the inside of the OTA mount where the base of the OTA meets the support. I found if i am not carefull when effectively parking the scope when not in use it tended to bang on the supports. The foam pad cusions this if it happens.

I have also added a  wixey gauge to give me an alt reading. I just need to decide on either a setting circle or my prefered choice of a digital rotary encoder of some kind.

 

 

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Edited by Chefgage
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I have actually decided against a setting circle and have gone down the digital route. I have a digital rotary encoder with a display similar to the wixey. I was going to create a new thread with all the nodifications i am doing. Just waiting on an encoder coupling to connnect the rncoder to the centre setscrew.

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