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Power and Data Box

yesyes

By yesyes
in DIY Astronomer

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roblegion

roblegion

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I used a basic 30A switch mode supply to provide 5, 6 and various 12v outputs and added an ebay USB hub, all seems fine.

I am not a fan of cigarette type outlets and tend to use standard DC jacks and the 3pin screw type which are super secure.

The 5v and 6v convertors are  automotive units from ebay.

 

Please excuse the two temporary rails for attaching the lid

Hub front.gif

Hub inside.gif

Hub rear.gif

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yesyes

yesyes

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Nice box. I think I have used the same USB hub. It's a 7-port with 5 on the front and another 2 at the back, right?

I don't like these cigarette / lighter sockets either. There is nothing really that holds the plug in the socket properly. And they are so huge!

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ncjunk

ncjunk

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I'm not a fan of the lighter sockets and i'd prefer another connector but i've also never had a problem with them. So i'm not going to change them at the moment as there's no reason to, other than they are large and hedeous!

Usb connectors on the other hand cause a fair few problems every now and again.

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Vox45

Vox45

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13 hours ago, ncjunk said:

I'm not a fan of the lighter sockets and i'd prefer another connector but i've also never had a problem with them. So i'm not going to change them at the moment as there's no reason to, other than they are large and hedeous!

Usb connectors on the other hand cause a fair few problems every now and again.

They are sure large and hideous but for me the main advantage is that they are fused so I don't have to put an inline fuse for each sockets and I can plug any device in any socket availlable whitout having to worry about the fuse rating.

I use marine socket and I never had any issues with a cable getting disconnected as they are really tight when inserted.

The reason I am saying this is that I'd like to have your thoughts on this... There might be some good reasons as to why people tend to replace the cig plug for xlr, speakon connectors or whatever the fade maybe now ;)

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Vox45

Vox45

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35 minutes ago, yesyes said:

I have not yet seen one that has a fuse. Though there is plenty of room for a fuse.. ;-)

Hmm not sure that I expressed myself properly then ? I mean, aren't all cig lighter plug fused ?

For exemple: www.amazon.com/Roadpro-Fused-Replacement-Cigarette-Lighter/dp/B0016LG0CY

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Astroboffin

Astroboffin

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2 hours ago, Vox45 said:

Hmm not sure that I expressed myself properly then ? I mean, aren't all cig lighter plug fused ?

For exemple: www.amazon.com/Roadpro-Fused-Replacement-Cigarette-Lighter/dp/B0016LG0CY

Most are fused, but some of the very cheap ones are not, I also have used the Marine type cigar plugs, (same as Chris above)as they have a twist lock feature which means that you push in an twist one quarter turn and they lock and can't be pulled out by accident, they have to be twisted back and pulled, so,no accidents with them, and obviously they are fused...if you look at the picture that Chris has posted above, it shows on the plugs the twist lock feature.

AB

 

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Vox45

Vox45

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5 minutes ago, Astroboffin said:

Most are fused, but some of the very cheap ones are not, I also have used the Marine type cigar plugs, (same as Chris above)as they have a twist lock feature which means that you push in an twist one quarter turn and they lock and can't be pulled out by accident, they have to be twisted back and pulled, so,no accidents with them, and obviously they are fused...if you look at the picture that Chris has posted above, it shows on the plugs the twist lock feature.

AB

 

Yes that is also my experience. The only thing I read about cheap cigar plugs is that they can arc when not inserted properly .. which is not good I agree ;)

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kirkster501

kirkster501

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Bought the bits to build my own power/data box.  Will start a new thread when I get going on it, linking back to this one.

I bought this USB hub.  Expensive sure but a lot of folks have said this is the real deal.

Decided to go the Internal PSU route as Neil and Chris have done.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B008DFAMWA/ref=pe_385721_37986871_TE_item

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sloz1664

sloz1664

Posted
Posted
36 minutes ago, kirkster501 said:

Bought the bits to build my own power/data box.  Will start a new thread when I get going on it, linking back to this one.

I bought this USB hub.  Expensive sure but a lot of folks have said this is the real deal.

Decided to go the Internal PSU route as Neil and Chris have done.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B008DFAMWA/ref=pe_385721_37986871_TE_item

Can't fault you on the Startech 7 port hub. I've had mine over two years and never had a problem. I load it up with Two ccd's, lodestar, two focusers, filterwheel and anything else I can fit with a usb plug.

Steve

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hughgilhespie

hughgilhespie

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1 hour ago, kirkster501 said:

Bought the bits to build my own power/data box.  Will start a new thread when I get going on it, linking back to this one.

I bought this USB hub.  Expensive sure but a lot of folks have said this is the real deal.

Decided to go the Internal PSU route as Neil and Chris have done.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B008DFAMWA/ref=pe_385721_37986871_TE_item

Hi Steve,

I'm sure you know already but with the Startech hub you have to set internal jumpers to control how the hub supplies power to the USB outlets. This is taken from the 'reviews' of the unit on the US Amazon site, amazon.com.

HERE IS THE INFO ON THE JUMPERS

Inside the box, on the top side of the circuit board there are two small standard type jumpers. They are located near the bottom edge of the board holding it so you can read it.

The two jumpers are marked U and T in small letters on the circuit board.

U stands for USB power, in other words power from the upstream USB on the computer,

T stands for Terminal, and means the power supplied from the green Phoenix connector.

BOTH are connected as the hub is shipped. To use ONLY the external power, meaning no power connection to the computer, remove the U jumper, and leave the T jumper in place. Of course if you want only computer power, you could remove the T.

I think for most applications, the ability to run on 7-24 volts, especially on the 24 VDC is important. If you are running that for a supply, it makes good sense to isolate the computer USB supply by removing the U jumper.

Also, the hub is completely transparent in the USB system. Some of our equipment is pretty particular about connections, drivers and address in the USB area, but this has not been any issue with this hub.

Hope this helps, Hugh

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Gina

Gina

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I have this one which is better than others I've had but I still have USB problems at times.

I like that the StarTech one can be run off my main 13.8v observatory supply rather than using it's own mains unit or 5v.

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ChrisLX200

ChrisLX200

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I have three of those StarTech hubs - one of them slightly broke. They are tough to break but my mount cover leaked some time ago and let water through, this literally filled the hub with water! I only found out when on next use it didn't power up, so I removed it from the pier and emptied the water (!)  and sprayed the insides with more ACF50 (it had been sprayed once when I installed it), not really expecting any benefit because the thing was powered up when it got drowned. Anyway, two days later it revived itself from the dead and started working again, but I lost one of the ports (number 3). The other six still work fine though. I bought another two hubs because later I really needed all 7 ports so had to replace the one on the mount which I moved inside the obs where it's working even today. Show me another electrical box that can survive that sort of mis-treatment ;-) Oh, and I replaced the leaky cover...

ChrisH

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yesyes

yesyes

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That's impressive. I'll measure the space in my box tomorrow and see if it will fit to replace the existing hubs.

I just wish they would have built it differently. I'd prefer the 7 ports on the side where the brackets are and only the USB feed and power on the side where they are now. I could mount it directly on the side of the box and could do away with these pigtail cables.

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sloz1664

sloz1664

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12 hours ago, yesyes said:

I'm wondering the same now. I have a problem with my new QHY5L-II guide cam. It won't work when connected to the hub in the box but works fine directly connected to the computer.

Again, never had a problem running both my QHY8 pro & Qhy5L-II - together - with the Startech Hub.

 

Steve

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NEM

NEM

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12 hours ago, yesyes said:

This one:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/7-Port-USB-2-0-Hi-Speed-Multi-Hub-Expansion-for-PC-Laptop-Easy-Plug-Play-/191472711628?hash=item2c94a9b7cc:g:NPMAAOSwc3ZUqtdu

Hi Chris,

I'm looking for a USB hub and that one looks interesting.  Am I right in assuming that the DC socket on the hub itself takes 5V?

In the description it says

Input: AC 110v-240v, 50/60 Hz

Powered by bus-power, or by external power adapter (NOT INCLUDED)

which is slightly confusing.  If you have to supply your own adaptor I'd have thought you could power it from anything.

Noel

 

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