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M27


fatwoul
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I thought I'd have a go at the planetaries, since they're up. Here's M27:

M57sml.jpg

And a crop of the centre:

M57CENTRALsml.jpg

~30mins of lights (1 min each), x20 mis-matched darks (2 min by accident), x20 bias, x20 flat.

Scope: MN190 on NEQ6

Camera: Nikon D3 (unmodded - as if!)

I'm really pleased with myself for this. I know its a pale comparison to some of the work on here, but if you look at my attempt last summer (with identical equipment, just after I got my MN190), I hope you'll agree I've made some real progress:

DumbellSML.jpg

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Thanks everyone. I get (understandably) nervous when I see Mr Penrice has commented on one of my photos, but it looks like I've passed! I'm glad you all think I've made some progress, as I was starting to worry I might not be getting anywhere.

Olly - I was pleased with that transparency, too. I'd like to try and improve the red areas, as they currently look a little hard-edged. I was remarking to someone at work recently, that as my images move forward, I want to try and keep the space around the DSOs, so they don't look too confined.

Some time in the next month I hope to make the move over to an Atik, and then I can let my D3 have a well-deserved rest from all this late-night nonsense!

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Just out of interest...

Do you recall what ISO setting you used?

Yours looks great, I'm gonna have a stab at this myself this week and wondered whether I'd need 1600 or if 800 would do at f6 with similar length subs?

Ben

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk

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Hi Ben, thanks for the interest and kind words.

In answer to your question, I am currently using ISO3200 for all my astrophotography. I think it was Carole who mentioned to me a while ago that ISO800 may be regarded as the optimum, but my camera (Nikon D3) is able to cope with much higher ISOs without showing too much noise or glow, and it allows me to use shorter exposure times. Until/If I get my alignment and guiding down to the fine art, It's allowing me to get encouraging results, albeit a little noisier than I would like.

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Hi Ben, thanks for the interest and kind words.

In answer to your question, I am currently using ISO3200 for all my astrophotography. I think it was Carole who mentioned to me a while ago that ISO800 may be regarded as the optimum, but my camera (Nikon D3) is able to cope with much higher ISOs without showing too much noise or glow, and it allows me to use shorter exposure times. Until/If I get my alignment and guiding down to the fine art, It's allowing me to get encouraging results, albeit a little noisier than I would like.

Wow, it looks pretty good to me for 3200ISO !!!!!! :-)

Ok, well, I'll do a 1 min sub at 800 and see what shows up... then go up to 1600 if it's not showing much detail.

I'm not guiding either at the mo, so need to push the sensitivity up past where I'd like to get anything much.

Ah well, I'll give it a shot and see what I get.

Ben

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I am guiding, Ben, but only a bit; I'm using a SynGuider when I can be bothered. Once I can get hold of a planetary camera for moon stuff (a S/H Atik 16, or maybe a Titan), I'll start using that for guiding, too.

Edited by fatwoul
Rogue 0!
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That looks a great improvement Fatwoul, a modified camera will bring out more of the red.

It's so nice to see an improvement from the last time you did an object, makes you feel you're getting somewhere.

Carole

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Thanks Carole. I wouldn't dare modify my D3 (not even sure if it can be done!), but I have just begun my exploration of astro CCDs, so with luck the improvement will continue.

You're right, it really is great motivation when you can see an improvement over a relatively short period of time. It makes me wonder how much further I will have developed by the time M27 appears next spring/summer.

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I wouldn't dare modify my D3 (not even sure if it can be done!),

Actually I seem to recall some-one else saying it wasn;t possible to do a mod on a Nikon, or if it was that it could not be used for daytime use afterwards (can't quite remember the details), so sounds like you may have to go another route.

Is this your first light from the POD?

Carole

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Great, keep up the good work. Don't you love that POD.

Been set up in there since last Saturday, 15 minutes from switching on to imaging. Can't do that in the winter though as I always take cameras and laptop indoors for fear of damp (even though I have a dehumidifier in there).

Carole

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Great, keep up the good work. Don't you love that POD...

I really do. It's made life so much easier already, and is allowing me to set up things I could never realistically do before. For example, proper drift alignment is now a possibility, and computer operated CCD was never really practical either, when I had to keep dismantling every night.

Been set up in there since last Saturday, 15 minutes from switching on to imaging. Can't do that in the winter though as I always take cameras and laptop indoors for fear of damp (even though I have a dehumidifier in there)...Carole

Same here. But even that is nothing compared to having to take everything except the mount indoors. No more painful fingers from carrying frozen OTAs around! I can't wait.

Excellent result, very nice colour and a good natural feel to it which to me is very important. A little more time on this will really bring it on, go on you know you want to. :D

Mike.

Yes, Mike, I really do want to, and plan to this weekend. I know it's not really the done thing, but I've worked out how to get my camera fitted back to the OTA fairly close to its position previously, so I can reattach the camera and add extra subs to an existing set. That's how I did my M81/M82 and it seemed to work OK, and saves me leaving my camera in the dome unattended, which gives me the heebie-jeebies.

Should I add more subs of the same length, or try adding some longer ones? At the moment I'm only ever doing 1 and 2 minute subs, but once my Titan arrives I could try using that with PHD and get some longer ones. If I do that, how do I translate that to my darks? Do I provide DSS with darks representing each sub length I've used, or just for the longest subs? What I mean is, if I do subs of 1,2 and 4 minutes, do I also do darks for 1,2 and 4 minutes, or just for 4?

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