Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'william optics'.
-
I wanted to create a thread to contain all information, tips, guides etc. related to the William Optics FLT120 telescope in one place. An index has been included which includes links to the direct post for each topic in question. This telescope was released in the UK circa September 2021 so is pretty new to the market, therefore I will be adding my learnings with this telescope along the way and will invite others to do the same! Here are some product listings to William Optics website which include the telescope and the two recommended flatteners, followed by a list of the critical product specifications: https://williamoptics.com/products/telescope/fluorostar/fluorostar-120 https://williamoptics.com/products/accessories/barlows-flatteners/flat7a https://williamoptics.com/new-william-optics-flattener-68iii Focal Length: 780mm (native) | 780mm (Flat 68III) | 624mm (Flat 7A) Diameter: 120mm Aperture: f/6.5 (native) | f/6.5 (Flat 78III) | f/5.2 (Flat 7A) Image circle: >full frame Recommended flatteners: Flat 7A and Flat 68III Focuser: 3.3" Rack and Pinion Tube weight: 7.2kg Optics: FPL-53 triplet APO Length (full retracted/fully extended): 680mm/850mm Accessories included: Soft carry bag; anodised scope rings, carry handle w/integrated vixen shoe mount and losmandy plate; dust cover with integrated bahtinov mask Index (with hyperlinks to comment) Focuser Adjusting focuser Installing ZWO EAF Installing Sesto Senso 2
- 6 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- william optics
- flt120
- (and 2 more)
-
Very simple , takes 5 minutes. No additional parts or tools needed , only the 2 allen keys included in the kit. Step 1 Remove the coarse focus knob (one with the thermometer). You can use the small allen key supplied with the EAF. Place the removed part in a secure bag for safe keeping , you will need to refit it if you remove the motor at a later stage. Step 2 Remove the focus lock knob AND the blanking grub screw on the other side. (small allen key) Place in secure bag for reuse if you remove the motor. Step 3 Fit the coupler that suits (3rd largest in the 4 supplied in the kit. Remember to match up the first grub screw with the flat on the spindle. There should be a small gap so the coupler does not rub against the OTA body. (small allen key). Step 4 Fit the motor onto the coupler. Remember to match up the first grub screw with the flat on the spindle. I also made sure both the flat on OTA spindle and the flat on motor spindle were aligned. This may not be necessary but I think it helps them align best. There should be a small gap between the coupler and the motor housing to avoid rubbing. (small allen key). Step 5 Fit the mounting bracket LOOSLY onto the motor using the screws in Pack A , use the washers for good grip. (Large allen key) Step 6 Fit the bracket LOOSLY to the GT81 using another 2 screws from the Pack A , again use washers. (Large allen key) NOTE: there are several uTube videos showing WO fitting where only the focus lock knob is removed and a single screw connects the bracket. While this will work the bracket runs the risk of moving a little front to back as the motor changes direction , this will ruin accuracy by creating unreliable positioning. The OTA has a blanking grub screw covering the second hole (to keep dust out), Use both screw fix points. Step 7 Check alignment and that the coupler is not touching scope body or motor body, tighten all the screws a bit at a time till all are nice and tight. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN! A moderate force on all 4 screws is all you need to fix the motor securely. All done and ready to go I placed the removed coarse focus knob and the focus lock/grub screw in their bag into the ZWO EAF box , so if I ever go to remove the motor they are there to put back on. -
From the album: Megrez 72
M31 25 x 5mins Williams optics megrez 72 Cannon Eos 40d-
- 2
-
-
- m31
- andromeda galaxy
- (and 1 more)
-
From the album: DSO, Nebula, Galaxies, Comets etc
M51 The Whirlpool Galaxy 21.04.18 My first proper attempt at RGB imaging with the monochrome CCD Imaged using William Optics FLT-110 and Atik 314L monochrome camera. 10 x 300 seconds R, 10 x 300 seconds G, 2 x 300 seconds B (as I had to delete the other 8 due to technical issues). 10 x 300 seconds Luminence. I will have another look at this data once I have done more reading up on combining my Luminence data with the RGB data as it was a case of having a play around this morning. However, I'm very happy with my result for now.© vicky050373
-
- 2
-
-
- m51 the whirlpool galaxy
- m51
- (and 4 more)
-
From the album: DSO, Nebula, Galaxies, Comets etc
M82 The Cigar Galaxy in Ursa Major imaged 12.02.2018 William Optics FLT-110 and Atik 314L monochrome CCD 60 x 60 second exposures© vicky050373
-
- 1
-
-
- m82 the cigar galaxy
- m82
- (and 7 more)
-
From the album: DSO, Nebula, Galaxies, Comets etc
M81 Bode's Galaxy in the constellation of Ursa Major imaged 09.02.2018 William Optics FLT-110 and Atik 314L monochrome CCD A total of 135 x 60 second exposures stacked in Deep Sky Stacker and processed in Photoshop CS2© vicky050373
-
From the album: DSO, Nebula, Galaxies, Comets etc
M1 The Crab Nebula 08.12.2017 William Optics FLT-110 and Atik 314L Monochrome CCD 10 x 300 seconds H-Alpha, 10 x 300 seconds OIII, 10 x 300 seconds SII Stacked in Deep Sky Stacker and processed in Photoshop CS2 False colour image by assigning SII to red channel, H-alpha to green channel and OIII to blue channel© vicky050373
-
- 4
-
-
- m1
- crab nebula
- (and 2 more)
-
From the album: DSO, Nebula, Galaxies, Comets etc
M33 The Triangulum Galaxy 22.09.2017 Atik 314L and William Optics FLT-110 10 x 60 seconds and 10 x 120 seconds Luminance filter only© vicky050373
-
- 3
-
-
- m33 triangulum galaxy
- m33
- (and 5 more)
-
From the album: DSO, Nebula, Galaxies, Comets etc
The result of one of my imaging sessions from Kelling Heath Autumn Equinox star party NGC 7635 The Bubble Nebula in Cassiopeia Imaged using Atik 314L monochrome CCD camera and William Optics FLT-110 refractor on NEQ6 Pro SynScan mount 10 x 300 second subs in H-alpha© vicky050373
-
- 2
-
-
- ngc 7635
- bubble nebula
- (and 7 more)
-
From the album: Lunar and Planetary Images
Jupiter showing the Great Red Spot (GRS) and Galilean moons Europa and Io - William Optics FLT-110 and QHY5L-II colour camera© vicky050373
-
From the album: Lunar and Planetary Images
Jupiter showing the Great Red Spot (GRS) and 4 Galilean moons - William Optics FLT-110 and QHY5L-II colour camera© vicky050373
-
From the album: Solar Images
The Sun with active region AR2651 23.04.2017 William Optics FLT-110 and QHY5L-II monochrome camera 800 frame AVI with best 50% stacked in Registax6 and slight adjustments in wavelets© vicky050373
-
From the album: Lunar and Planetary Images
Taken using Williams Optics FLT-110 refractor and Imaging Source DMK21AU04.AS Monochrome CCD. Video stacked in RegiStax6. Image shows Mare Imbrium with the crater Copernicus to the far right hand side.© Vicky050373
-
From the album: Lunar and Planetary Images
Taken using Williams Optics FLT-110 refractor and Imaging Source DMK21AU04.AS Monochrome CCD. Video stacked in RegiStax6. The crater to the lower left of the image is Copernicus.© Vicky050373
-
William Optics FLT-110 refractor on NEQ6 Pro Synscan with Canon 100D DSLR 10.01.2016
Vicky050373 posted a gallery image in Member's Album
From the album: Vicky's Astronomy Gear
William Optics FLT-110 refractor on NEQ6 Pro Synscan with Canon 100D DSLR© Vicky050373
-
William Optics FLT-110 F7 refractor with Canon 100D on NEQ6 Pro SynScan mount
Vicky050373 posted a gallery image in Member's Album
From the album: Vicky's Astronomy Gear
My set up for the total lunar eclipse on 28th September 2015© Vicky050373
-
From the album: Vicky's Astronomy Gear
My very special William Optics FLT-110 F7 triplet refractor© Vicky050373
-
From the album: Solar Images
Stacked and processed image of The Sun and AR2542 (formerly known as AR2529) taken this afternoon using William Optics FLT-110 refractor, 1.25" Lunt Herschel Wedge, Celestron X-Cel LX 2 x barlow and QHY5-L-II monochrome planetary camera. 800 frame AVI processed through RegiStax6 to stack and select best 25% of frames and then wavelets added. It was good to see what was left of fabulous sunspot AR2529 which I previously imaged on 17th April prior to it's journey around the farside of the sun.© vicky050373
-
From the album: DSO, Nebula, Galaxies, Comets etc
M13 the Great Globular Cluster in Hercules imaged 30.04.2016 using Atik 16IC-S monochrome CCD and William Optics FLT-110 mounted on NEQ6 Pro. 30 light frames ranging from 60 seconds to 600 seconds, no darks. Stacked in DeepSkyStacker, using the best 80% of frames.© vicky050373
-
From the album: Lunar and Planetary Images
Taken using Williams Optics FLT-110 refractor and Imaging Source DMK21AU04.AS Monochrome CCD. Video stacked in RegiStax6. Image shows the well known Tycho Crater which has a diameter of 102km and was named after the Danish Astronomer Tycho Brahe. The crater is surrounded by a distinctive ray system forming long spokes that reach as long as 1,500km.© Vicky050373
-
From the album: LightBox 90mm refractor
© SabinFotafotografie
-
Hi, I'm keen to buy a small good quality refractor primarily for astrophotography of galaxies and nebulae. I'd like to use my Pentax K1 full frame DSLR with the telescope. Reviewing YouTube & Google the; Altair Astro 72 EDF deluxe & William Optics 71GT look like they might be good models to go for. I'd welcome the community's views on both, and any other alternatives people recommend. -
Hi guys, hoping you can help with the tracking problems I'm coming across with my astrophotography setup. I've been using it since August 2020 and have kind of put up with the problem until last night where I think it's getting worse... Specs below (let me know if you need anything else): William Optics Zenithstar 61 II (360mm F6.1) - Zenithstar 61Adjustable Field Flattener iOptron SkyGuider Pro Camera Mount Full Package K&F Concept Aluminium Tripod with 2kg weight Canon EOS 250d (cropped sensor 1.6x) The problem: I take roughly 40 pics with each being 1 minute long at 1600 ISO and stack them on DeepSkyStacker. From a few people I know on the internet, it seems as though, with a very similar setup and same focal length, they can get around 3 mins of exposure with no problem. And that's without a guide camera. With my 1 minute exposure, roughly 10 of 40 images are reasonable but the rest have star trailing or double stars (see attached downscaled, unedited pics of Orion nebula) What I think it could be: My first idea was the tripod, it's not the best but it's not cheap plastic, and it should be fine for a 1 min exposure. Then I thought it could be the iOptron tracker that could be faulty? Every screw has been tightened, there's no play in any of the adapters/mounts. I thought I'd post this here to see if anyone else has the same problem or has more experience/knowledge that could help. Also to see if there's an obvious problem before I spend hundreds on a new tripod or send the tracker back for a replacement. Any help would be much appreciated! Thanks, Dean -
As some may remember I got some William Optics binoviewers a few weeks ago. With both my two current refractors (Skywatcher Startravel 120mm f5 & new Altair Astro Starwave 102mm f11) I can't achieve focus with the binoviewers without using the 2xbarlow nosepiece that I ordered up seperately to use as before I received the nosepiece I was using my Celesstron Omni 2x Barlow to achieve focus. I've been toying with the idea of cutting down my ST120 frac to be able to use the binoviewers for wide field views when using, rather that having it 2 x magnified with the Barlow nosepiece, but don't really fancy putting a hacksaw to the tube and cutting it shorter really. So, my question is has anyone who has or previously owned the William Optics binoviewers had/got a telescope where you could achieve focus OK with the binociewers without either having to fit the 2x Barlow nosepiece (or any Barlow), or do any other mods or buy extra equipment to get the widest views possible with them? I'm looking perhaps at maybe a Skywatcher 127mm Maksutov scope perhaps as I believe they have a large amount of inward and outward focus that might be able to help with the binoviewers. I would also consider another frac perhaps, as long the total weight with any diagonal & any EP's would not exceed 5kg as I intend to use it on the Skywatcher Stardiscovery Az Goto mount that I am buying from Dobbie on Friday. Any feedback for a decent scope to do this would be welcome! -
I just had to show it off; I'd rather be outside looking through it, but too cloudy. First impressions are pretty darn good. It's a beautiful instrument, the fit and finish are superb. This is the 20th Anniversary Edition GT81 f/5.9 81mm APO refractor from William Optics. It has a two speed Crayford 2" focuser, with a 1.25" adapter. It comes with a small "shoe"-like dovetail bar, and a carry handle that also mounts a set of rings large enough to hold a 9x50 finderscope or guide scope. Just to see how it looks, I installed the 9x50 finder from my Edge 8", and will probably leave it on the frac, since I rarely use it on the SCT. The dovetail bar is barely long enough for the two large tightening screws on my AVX mount to grasp, there is no room to move the OTA forward or back on the mount to assist in balancing once all the accessories are attached. It is threaded so a longer dovetail bar can be attached. The telescope is only 17" long with the dew shield retracted, and weighs around 8 pounds. It comes with a soft case with a fitted closed-cell insert, and the William Optics logo is nicely embroidered on the cover. I also purchased the field flattener/reducer for this scope, it makes it a f/4.7 when used, and so far as I can tell, the reducer is for AP only, it comes with an adapter ring for a Canon T-mount, which can be unscrewed; the threads are then correct for a Nikon T-mount, but there is no means to place an eyepiece in the reducer. The reducer is threaded on the end that inserts into the 2" focuser barrel along the last few mm, but it has a broad sleeve with the safety recess that fits very snugly in the focuser tube. With the three thumbscrews snugged against the brass collar inside the focuser, there is absolutely no free play to be had. Very solid. I also tried a variety of my EP's and accessories, they all fit well and without any movement once tightened. I can't wait for a nice, clear night to try out this marvel. I have a side-by-side dovetail bar coming so I can mount this alongside my Edge.
.png.7c0d72fe46b0b2410c7221ca468119a4.png)
.jpg.dc27d3b2ff3428adad01e0401ca9139a.jpg)
.jpg.397b6d9677bb9b80fca3ac06b6dbaa10.jpg)
.jpg.a067fb9682f5deb764142db97dc8998c.jpg)
.thumb.jpg.f5d96ff2fe7bc7e0858f11172394e5fd.jpg)