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Found 3 results

  1. Dear Stargazers, I have been searching for a new visual back for my 180 SkyMax Mak-Cass, especially with micro-focusing ability. My 180 Mak has a standard 2" SC thread on the back so the obvious choice would be a Crayford style aftermarket focuser with 1:10 micro-focusing. However I did not like the idea to add about 750 g of focusing equipment to my telescope when my heaviest "payload" is 522g, thats visual with a 1.25" diagonal, an ADC and the Hyerflex zoom EP. So I was thinking a bit and came up with the following setup, both for visual as well as planetary photography. Here is the shopping list: 2" SC to T2 rotatable adapter (there is a Baader one, I went for the TS TSSC-T2S adapter) 2x T2 - Baader 1.25" focusing EP holder (T-2 part #08A or #2458125) a 40 mm T2 extension or an ADC with T2 treads (I have both) a micro-focusing diagonal (I converted my TS 1.25" diagonal with one of the two Baader #08A EP holders and this TS ZS1D-T2 adapter) Now first some images of the 1.25" diagonal conversion: off goes the standard EP holder and mount the T2 adapter: and on goes the Baader #08A EP focusing holders well that was straightforward, but it's nice to focus the EP directly on the diagonal. Onward with the new configuration. I removed the standard visual back and the 2" to 1.25" adapter I used to use: and mounted the SC to T2, the 40mm T2 extension and the Baader #08A EP holder. This setup is about 100g lighter than the original VB. It places a camera at FL = 2477 mm and one can directly micro-focus the camera. Another setup is with an ADC: where this setup is about 70g lighter than the original VB and places the camera at FL = 2400 mm. Again micro-focusing is achieved with the Baader #08A EP holder. Now when it comes to observing planets, an ADC is quite crucial in the next few years to come so I mounted it as seen above. You can level the ADC with the SC to T2 adapter, which is rotatable, but you can also easily lock it in place by tightening the outer ring with the grooves. Add the now focusing diagonal and your favourite EP and: You are ready to observe at an FL = 2730 mm (almost stock FL). The advantage is that you can easily rotate the diagonal with the first Baader #08A EP holder (before the diagonal in the light path) and then focus your EP with the second Baader #08A at the diagonal. I like this setup, both because it is very lightweight and also versatile. Downside is that you can not add a motor focuser, which I don't mind. I will test this setup extensively now during October (Mars!!) and report back on how it performs when using it out at night. Let me know what you think about the setup. Hope its useful to anyone. Clear Skies, Alex
  2. Hello everyone, I've got a question. I want to upgrade the visual back on the Mak 127. The standard back on the Mak is not pleasant to work with as seen in the image. I need to get rid of this plastic thing. I purchased a mak to sct adapter when I bought the scope, I never got around to doing anything until now as I've just acquired a Baader 2.25x barlow as shown in the image. Now, I've had a go of attaching the the Baader Barlow into the original plastic thing on the mak, it works .... but I'm not happy with the connection being made with the two locking screws, as there is still movement when the barlow, t-ring and Canon DSLR are all in the train. I've been having a look on FLO for some work around, does anyone have some input as to whether this will work. Mak to sct adapter-> Baader 2 inch to 1.25 reducer adapter->Baader 2.25x barlow + T ring & DSLR https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/baader-2-to-125-reducer-adapter.html https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/BaaderT2ext-1508153.html Any input or a better way of securing everything is greatly appreciated! Another option I've come across is this , Baader ClickLock 2"-1.25" Adapter and Baader T2 Extension Tube to bring it to 40mm when attached to the mak to sct adapter. Anyone have any experience with this?
  3. Is there an adapter which goes from a Mak visual back (SW 150 Mak) to T2 to allow an EOS DSLR with an "EOS to T2 ring" to attach directly, or is it best to get a Mak to 2" adapter (which we have) and just get a 2" nose piece for the EOS ring? I want to keep it all 2" and not 1.25". James
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