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Found 10 results

  1. I know it may be a bit of a long shot but I'm looking to buy a HEQ5 Pro mount or an NEQ6 Pro or something similar. Preferably belt driven but not necessary as can happily modify it. Please let me know if you have anything! Thanks.
  2. Hi I own a Skywatcher SynScan 130P Explorer but I find it does not take good astro images and now I hardly use it which is really sad and with some money coming in the next few months I want to sell it and buy another good scope to support taking pics of the night sky. Well, my question and I need advice : Since I am really enjoying photographing the night sky at the moment, I am using my Canon 70 D on a good tripod with Samyung 14mm or Tokina 11- 14mm. I have got some ok pics from this of the Milky Way but I am not greatly satisfied with the results much. As an upgrade, I am keen on buying a star tracker and a astro modified camera( or something similar to this ). (I want to kick myself as I sold my Canon 450D two years ago for £100) Do you think I should ? Is this useful ? Can I use the Star tracker with my canon 70D? Also, If I get the star tracker will a astro modified camera help me take better pics. I have seen some stuff on You tube , but I am confused. Also , If I buy another scope will I be able to use the modified camera with that ? Sorry for asking so many questions.
  3. Hi, As a newbie in AP I recently discovered that astro imaging isn't as simple as I imagined, it's not just "pointing and shooting". The main point is that I need a tracker that will follow the sky's movement. But after seeing the prices at which decent trackers are sold I decided to see if I could build one myself from spare parts at my workshop. Turns out that I can, using two planks of wood a hinge, an arduino, a stepper motor, etc. So I decided to get to it, I have built the connection between both planks of wood with the hinge, but have now discovered a problem. After some investigation, I realized it's quite commonly named the "Tangent Problem" (the rod forms a 90º angle with the bottom plank). So the solutions offered vary from curved rods to involute pieces of plastic and tilting the rod. I also saw another solution that was adjusting the speed at which the rod moves, and since I'm going to be using an arduino-driven stepper motor, I decided that this was the way to go. The problem is that I don't know in what ratio the speed has to increase over time to compensate the "Tangent problem". That's why I decided to pose my question here as I'm sure someone must have done it already. Sorry for my bad english, it isn't my first langnuage. Thanks in advance and clear skies, S
  4. Hi All, i am looking for my first astrophotography rig and i have limited it down to the two trackers. I know these can only take a limited payload and are there not good value for money in terms of upgrading to a bigger telescope later. But, i really want something portable, quick, and easy to get started. I currently have a 12 inch dob so i really want at least something other than my binoculars that is much easier to get outside quickly when the clouds break. I will also be buying the z61 william optics telescope (yet to buy) as i feel this is a good scope for these type of mounts from what i have read. Therefore, here is my question. Which moint should i get? I know they essentially do the same thing but there is some differences including price. I believe the skyguider pro is much more exspensive given from what i hear the vixen wedge would also be needes at a much greater cost that what is provided. Also, the star adventurer does not have a built in battery but instead uses AA's or i hear sometimes people use a power pack. As a result, it appears that the sky guider pro works out much more exspensive when all is said and done. However, is the skyguider pro worth the extra money with the wedge or is the star adventurer the better option? Any tips, advice, or first hand experience welcome kind Regards Gary
  5. Hello I have a telescope -SkyWatcher Explorer-130P SupaTrak Newtonian Reflector auto Telescope and it has a heavy duty tracking device ( pic attached). I have had this scope for a few years and did pretty much basic with this and never understood how to use this device. I have the time now to spend with the scope during this social distancing time and I am totally unaware of how to efficiently use the tracking. I know how to move up, down, left and right. I don't think it has wifi and it looks very basic ...please can someone explain how to set this up. Pleaseeeeee can someone help .......I have searched everywhere but I can't find any material on this. Also , If i buy SynScan ( with wifi ) will it work with my scope? Thanks in advance xx
  6. Hello all, I have just joined and have been looking around, and putting in various searches to find the answer to my question(s). I have already found some valuable information, but i can't find a specific answer to a question i have relating to exposure times. I have shot the milky way several times before, from a tripod and a wide angle lens. I am aware of and understand the "500 rule" and that worked fine for me at first when i was shooting with my Canon 6D Mark II. When i moved over to the Sony A7III i noticed significant trailing using the same rule and that led me to the NPF rule (Via the photopills app incase people dot know). I am heading back to Tenerife once again in about 6 weeks time and want to buy a star tracker so i can get some really detailed images. I have done a fair bit of research and in principle, the whole thing doesn't seem to be too daunting or difficult. I have purchased the Polar Scope Align Pro app so i can align Polaris as accurately as possible, i will practise putting the unit together and familiarising myself with the different parts etc, but it is the exposure times that i do not understand. My best glass is the Carl Ziess 50mm F/1.4 Planar, the 18mm F/2.8 Batis, the Sigma 35mm F/1.4 Art & the IRIX 15mm F/2.4 Blackstone. I currently do not own, nor have i ever used a tracker, and I cannot find any information relating to which aperture, ISO and Shutter length any of these focal lengths should or could be shot at. Is there anything similar to the 500 rule or NPF rule that relates to using a tracker with varied focal lengths? or is it just a case of stepping the lens down for sharpness and then trial and error? Thanks in advance, Matt.
  7. Interested in purchasing a Skywatcher Star Adventure Tracker. Tel. 07814429371 .
  8. Hey guys, new here. So essentially I'm looking to build a tracking mount for my DSLR. It's the first time I'm attempting anything like this (never had a proper build-project before) and I'd sort of like to build a tracker that isn't manual but that uses an arduino board. I've seen a few builds online where people do this but I don't want to build one and find out that there was a better guide or a better version I could have used elsewhere. I was thinking of using this guide, what do you guys think? Or do you know of any other guides that might be more helpful or better suited?
  9. Please contact if you have or know of this tracker for sale. https://www.firstlightoptics.com/skywatcher-mounts/skywatcher-star-adventurer-astronomy-bundle.html Thanks. Paul
  10. Well, I said I would give it a go and I did. Fancied starting to play around with imaging along with visual observing on my Dob. I'm not in a position to do things "properly" at the moment, so spent a few quid getting some bits and pieces for a basic Barn Door Tracker. It worked out a little more expensive than it should as I needed to get a tripod and ball head for the job, but most of this is put together from bits and pieces. I used two off-cuts of garden decking as they are quite thick and solid, but not too heavy. And, luckily, as I went with a simple straight bolt with a done nut on the end, the ridges in the decking worked as an ideal guide for the rod as it raises the top block. I used M8 rod with 20 ridges per inch, spaced at 11.44 inches from the centre of the hinge pin. T-nuts to hold the quick release plate underneath to connect to the tripod, and I needed to use a 3/8" to 1/4" converter to secure the ball head as I soon found out that standard diameters do not equal standard threads when it comes to tripods! The length of bolt should give me enough for about 25 minutes in total although, in practice, the exposures are likely to be less but more numerous. Got a chrome fruit bowl from Asda for £2 which has two wooden discs as a base, so just took one of those to use for the dial under the tracker. I put it underneath as a few guides I read preferred that approach as you a "touching" the secured base, rather than the "moveable" top board. Since the photos were taken I have added the 30 degree/5 second gradations on the disc and added a red led above the disc to act as a marker when turning. I also need to add some rubber bands to hooks on either side of the boards to add stability. Some extra weight may help nearer the ball head as well as there was some wobble if care is not taken when adusting the disc. So tonight I took it out into the back garden, did a very rough polar alignment, sighting Polaris along the hinge bolt - the clouds didn't help this either - then focussed the camera on a bright star using the viewfinder. I just shoved it on the tracker and started snapping. Actually the battery in my camera didn't last long, but I did get some shots that suggest the tracker is working. Despite the fact that the alignment was very basic and I didn't spend any time focussing (just used the viewfinder - will take the laptop next time for Live View in the EOS software), the pictures came out without any star-trailing. The stars were little balls unfortunately as the focussing wasn't accurate, but there did not seem to be any blurring/trailing. I did various shots between 30 seconds and 1 minute, moving the disc 30 degrees every 5 seconds, and the results were the same. I've not posted them here as they are only in RAW format and not very exciting, but it gives me hope for trying again another night and taking more photos to stack. So definitely a fun project to play around with if, like me, you fancy trying your hand at astrophotography, but are not ready to splash out on loads of expensive kit! And bear in mind, when I was at secondary school, my woodwork teacher once wrote in my school report nothing but, "Mark is very good at coming up with ideas," - so anyone should be able to have a go. Next may be an adaptation for a motor, but will plan to get used to the Mark I for now!
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