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Found 4 results

  1. Hi all, Since a few days, I'm the proud owner of the asi1600 Pro. Performed some first tests, see: https://youtu.be/hHJBbpNoi2I I used SGP Pro to test cooling and dark frames (2m and 5m) on unity gain settings. Is it ok to use unity gain (139) setting or should I use high dynamic range? Also, this is my first mono. Do I need to take flats/bias frames for each filter separately? And how could I stack either broadband or narrowband images? I'm used to deep sky stacker. Cheers, Wido
  2. The weekend seemed to be party in the best way, the night before I had received the new camera, the QHY5L-II and I had installed the drivers that seemed to go, the sky was finally clear with good seeing. But I did not know what was waiting for me in the morning. Looking at pictures online I spotted a pair of gigantic prominences, what better time to try the new camera, I prepared relatively calm the equipment, the air is fresh and already I foretaste of a great timelapse of one of the two, asap the filter went in the temperature I pointed the sun and I have the first surprise: firecapture freezzed every two to three trial and error seems to happen by changing the settings of the camera or moving the subject, there seems to be a bug that blocks everything when the screen is overexposed or quickly moves the picture; you can understand that disconnect and restart the software every time I want to rotate the picture or change the barlow is inconceivable, I try different combinations of firecapture and drivers but I come to nothing. As if it were not enough with the new versions of firecapture that manage the QHY I can not get my mythical chameleon, does not recognize her own, arriving at the solution of having two versions of drivers and two versions of firecapture to be able to use both. The new camera then proves to have the same defect of the previous QHY-Magzero-Allccd and company, the sensor and slides are perpetually dirty, although I try to clean it I cannot reach a good result, only at the end of the session I removed everything, wash the sensor for a few minutes, and I close with one of my clear filter of the Baader. I hope will disappear also the random reflection that I had noticed on its original clear filter. Unfortunately, however, the problems are not over yet, in fact the most mangy cannot not be solved, the structure of the CMOS sensor goes into interference with my optical train Halpha, images with heavy newton bands force me to use the chameleon for the disc and try to use the qhy5 on prominence, only on a high-contrast subject seem to hide the problem. Maybe some other combination of a barlow / filters might not have those problem but in my case it was an apocalypse. : Wink: But I must take formal note that it is faster and sensitivity is on the same level. In the afternoon I started shooting a timelapse but the dramatic worsening of the seeing made me give up after half an hour. However, I am attaching the result of so much suffering and sweat (there were at least 32 degrees ) and the video of the last week solar events I hope you enjoy. Chameleon QHY5L-II QHY5L-II
  3. Last night I set everything up ready and expecting a full nights imaging. Unfortunately the weather gods intervened and in the end limited my testing to just 30mins of which I managed to gather 12mins of good data...! The weather conditions were horrible, intermittent clouds with the thin wispy stuff in between etc... Normally I wouldn't have set everything up but it was promising to be clear??? In the end it ever happend. So here is the first successful test at F10 with the new Mewlon (with corrector baffle assembly) I still have some minor guiding issues but I'm very pleased with the results above; the stars are greatly improved with no sign of coma at all. The coma was never that bad but it was noticeable at the corners even on the ST10 chip. I would say that these stars are as perfect as they can be, give the weather conditions. I now have a telescope that I can guide at 2500mm fl, 3000mm fl was impossible!!! Or too frustrating? It can image the smaller DSO with no coma and hence has become most versatile. (Not just a specialised planetary scope). The next test will be M1 the crab at F7 with the new reducer fitted, most probably after I return from my net business trip.
  4. I have for a long time wanted a lens to my Canon DSLR fullframe in the range of 120 mm to 180 mm with high quality. Often the Canon 200 mm 1:2.8 are told to be of good quality for astrophotography. Half a year ago I found a used Sigma 150 mm 1:2.8 APO lens. I have read reviews that it's good for normal photography but almost nothing about astrophotographing. I have done some simple tests of it with photos of M31 Andromeda and M45 Pleiades. If I set the aperature to 4.0 I get sharpness of the stars in the corners and not too much vignetting. I feel this will be a good lens for my future needs. I like those widefield photos where you see the space around your deepsky objects. You can read more on my homepage: http://astrofriend.eu/astronomy/projects/project-sigma-150mm-f2_8-lens-vignetting/project-sigma-150mm-f2_8-lens-vignetting.html There is also a fullresolution image of each, look at that! I used it on my Canon EOS 6D camera and a light weigth Star Adventurer mount. Note that the polar alignment is not perfect and I havn't spent much time to get the color correct. Anyway, what's correct colors on a astrophotography? I used AstroImageJ with my own macros and Fitswork to process the image. I wrote this to inform others like me that seek information about this Sigma lens. Hope it helps somewhat. /Lars
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