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Found 10 results

  1. Hi All, Starlight Light V3.1 is now available to download: OSX version Windows version From the change log: - Added 3x3 binning for progressive cameras only. 3x3 binning is not available for interlaced cameras. - Added display for camera firmware version to the camera properties display. - Modified Lanczos resampling algorithm to dampen sampling artefacts around bright objects (black halo around stars). - Fixed Bug: Camera stability issues under OSX - updates to the libUSB library have improved stability for OSX 10.11 'El Capitan'. The application will now not crash if the camera unexpectedly disconnects. - Fixed Bug: Date and time was not being stored in the FITS file when exporting to FITS. - Fixed Bug: Detection of non-writable directories on Windows platforms. - Fixed Bug: Signalling of critical or fatal application errors from non-UI threads causes a crash. As always have fun and clear skies! Paul
  2. Hi I've published a video of my viewing session as broadcast on Video Astronomy Live on the 17th March 2016 speeded up by x16 so you get a whole evening in 12 minutes! This shows what can be achieved despite living in a Red Zone (Bortle 6-7) with local light pollution too. Equipment: C8 on HEQ5 with F3.3 reducer Lodestar-C Starlight Live EQMAC Sky Safari Plus V1.8 Enjoy Paul
  3. Hi I hope Paul81 does not mind me staring this thread - I've been using Starlight/lodestar Live since it's first release and continue to be amazed at the levels of functionality that Paul manages to include in each new release. I though it might be useful to have a single thread where we can discuss everything from minor improvements to major pieces of functionality. Paul has already previewed his hot pixel removal and I for one am looking forward to this (given the number of hot pixels my Lodestar-C has!). Some minor UI improvements as a starter:. 1. Include the Stacked/RAW and Linear/arcsinh/X^0.25 info on the saved PNG (perhaps these could all be optional via a Image Export screen) - I often forget which mode I've used when I come to post the images. 2. Include a Processed Image Save button available at all times - no need to confirm the file name/location, just press and it's saved to your preferred location as the file naming convention works fine. 3. Remember last settings for "Image Acquisition" and "Focus and Alignment" modes (Exposure and image processing) - I usually use the focus and alignment mode to centre the object at 5 or 10s exposure (or sometimes much less depending upon the brightness of the surrounding stars) before moving to Image Acquisition at my chosen exposure for the evening (matched to my Dark Frame). This allows me to leave the Export RAW FITS setting as no files are saved in the Focus and Alignment mode. More involved functionality: 1. Add the possibility for user defined transfer functions to augment the arcsin and x^0.25 - this might be achieved by a CSV lookup table - 64K integers should be manageable but I'm no software engineer! On the topic of transfer functions, I find the way the current arcsinh and x^0.25 work to be somewhat confusing and this might be down to how the other image controls are applied - you always seem to end up with the histogram pushed to the right. Perhaps if there was a separate level shift available which effectively moved the zero point before applying the transfer function we could keep the histogram in the middle or better still towards the left and then adjust Black/White levels and contrast after the transfer function has been applied. I get the impression that currently the brightness is applied after the transfer function but I could be wrong. Once gain a big thank you to Paul81 for all the effort he puts into this magnificent piece of software. Clear skies Paul
  4. Hello all, I'm hoping Paul or someone who has used Starlight Live with a Trius camera sees this and can point me in the right direction! I've borrowed a Trius XS694 (mono) to try out. I have it plugged in to the AC adapter, and am using the USB cord that comes with the camera to connect it to my Macbook Pro's USB port. When I attach the SX Trius 694 it shows up in Starlight Live 3.3 (checkmark symbol) as Starlight Xpress SX694 (F/W 25.1). I can set TEC, mono, binning, etc. However, as soon as I try to do anything (eg. start to take darks), it pauses, then loses the camera connection. I have to physically unplug and replug the camera to get it to show up again. My understanding was that SL supported the SX cams... do I need to do something else (command line?) before connecting the cam? Or...? On a related note: I'd also appreciate the proper command line syntax to view FITS files generated by the cam (assuming I eventually get that working!) Thanks so much in advance! - Greg A
  5. Hello everyone, After a bit of a hiatus, I was able to get out again and enjoy new moon/clear skies from a slightly less light-polluted viewing location. ? For those who have seen my past posts, I'm still using StarLight Live 3.3 with a SX Trius 694 camera, now with SX filter wheel. I alternate between using an 8" SCT and various Borg refractors - these shots are with a 5" Borg, with exposures < 30 s. The combination works well, overall, and SLL controls the filter wheel which makes jumping between L,R,G,B and Halpha filters really easy and fun! The only major issues I have are that (on my Mac) SLL seems unable to run the Trius in anything other than 2x2 binning. I haven't been able to get a PC to test whether this is only a Mac related issue, though others have apparently been able to use this camera in all the various binning modes via SLL windows. I also have focus/framing problems if exposure time is set to 1s (camera drops out and SLL freezes up). To facilitate not having to refocus, everything was shot through either an L filter, R+G+B filters, or Halpha filter (all Astronomik 1.25", in a single filter wheel). It generally worked really well, but occasionally I would switch colour filters to do a composite and SLL would stop stacking and I've had to start my colour composite from the start again. But a fantastic feature of SLL! Enjoy the shots - these (and others not posted) were all taken over a few hours time in the early morning. I love how much - and how quickly! - you can view with EAA! Cheers, Greg A
  6. DoctorD


    From the album: DoctorD's Photos

    C8 F3.3 Lodestar using Starlight Live (15s stack - see image for details)
  7. DoctorD


    From the album: DoctorD's Photos

    C8 F3.3 Lodestar using Starlight Live (30s stack - see image for details)
  8. DoctorD


    From the album: DoctorD's Photos

    C8 F3.3 Lodestar using Starlight Live (30s stack - see image for details)
  9. I have an Ultrastar Color camera. I'm having difficulty with Starlight Live on my iMac. I have the latest version installed. When I load the software the camera is connected, but when I try to acquire an image, I never see anything. The bar at the left bottom of the screen indicates the image is being acquired, but the software image screen remains black no matter how I change the exposure settings. It works perfectly on my Windows 10 pc, but I need to use it on my iMac. Any suggestions? Thanks so much, Joel
  10. Hi Not posted for a while, but have managed to get out a few times this year with the C8 on the HEQ5 - I've been fiddling with the reducer spacing and think I've found a better distance - still not optimal and will have to experiment some more. (Working at F3.5 to F3.4 with the C8). Here's my selected catch with my Lodestar-C, mostly 30s exposures however M42 was 15s, some stacked using median others using mean stacking with info on the picture. Severe gradient in some images from general Bradford Sky Glow to the east of my location. During the cloudy nights, I've been playing with Astrometry.net and now have a working system which can calculate the actual centre of the image and sync the scope to these coordinates - off line with no internet connection. I can set up using EQMAC with a single star alignment (usually adjusting mount by loosening the RA and DEC clutches to get the target star in the centre of my finder) the I can retire to the warmth of my study and complete the alignment indoors. Using marks on my drive I can set up and be back in the warmth within 15 minutes, sometimes quicker - this is my idea of comfortable astronomy! CS Paul
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