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Found 9 results

  1. This is my first serious attempt at using my basic Sony A7 for AP on a WO-ZS71 mounted on the NEQ6. Individual frames were captured using Sony's own software and that is where I ran into problems - it has a mind of its own! Focusing using a Bahtinov Mask and Live View on the laptop seemed to work pretty well. The software then allowed me to take 9 x 10s and 4 x 30s exposures despite my best efforts to take 20 of each - it was not going to play ball. These 13 images were stacked in DSS without any calibration frames (I took flats but I judged them not fit for purpose and I wasn't too impressed with my Darks either!). ABE was applied in PI along with MLT noise reduction. The image was cloned and the original incrementally stetched with HistogramTransofrmation and the clone with Arcsinh stretch. The two resulting images were then Mask Layered in Photoshop, levels applied and a small amount of additional noise reduction. I think this A7 has some potential providing I can sort the Remote software and get myself some decent calibration frames. All comments and suggestions greatfully received. Thanks for looking. Adrian
  2. I've done some reading around this camera which is effectively a wireless remote camera with an APS-C sensor. There are a few reports of using it for AP (within its limitations - specifically no bulb mode and limited to 30s exposures). Any experience here using it? The fact I can control it remotely without having a tethered laptop really appeals as it will keep setup time and cabling to a minimum. It also means I don't have to go out and buy a Windows laptop which seems pretty much required for a lot of tools. I should be able to find one for around £200 so it will be "cheap" way to have a little dabble with imaging. The 30s exposure restriction isn't an issue for me because I'm using an Alt-Az mount.
  3. Hi Guys, I thought I would share with you my first DSO taken with my new Orion 8" Ritchey Chretien F8 Telescope. The frame is made up of 12 x 4min shots, no light or dark frames, using my Sony A7Rii camera. The camera had the long exposure noise reduction switched on, which does help to reduce the total number of stars captured by the camera, as the Sony A7Rii does tend to overdo the number of stars captured. The telescope was mounted on my trusty skywatcher NEQ6 mount and the guiding was via PHD 'of course' via my skywatcher ED50 guide scope. The shots were taken from my back garden in Stowmarket, Suffolk where I believe I am a Bortie 4 location, so the skies are mostly dark, with just a little light pollution from the main town, no filters used. My normal telescope is a Skywatcher ED100 Pro Esprit F5.5, which is an incredibly sharp scope, but with a wide 550mm field of view, great for capturing the whole of Andromeda but a struggle with smaller images like the Iris Nebula. I will say the Orion RC scope did need to be collimated out of the box, which was a little disappointing, and it was not just a little out of collimation, it was a long way out, but with the use of a collimating tool, I soon had it dialled in. First impressions of the Orion Ritchey Chretien 8" Telescope are fair, not super impressed, as it is nowhere near as sharp as my ED100 Esprit, but then this is to be expected based on price and telescope type, however, the pictures it has produced are pretty good, if you downscale the full 42MP from the Sony A7Rii camera, as can be seen in this picture. I purchased this 8" Orion Ritchey Chretien OTA mainly for Planetary work, but as yet I have not had a chance to 'get onto' a planet, fingers crossed some clear nights will arrive soon, so I can try. I welcome comments, many thanks Jamie
  4. Hi Guys/Girls I had a chance to get out in the garden last evening, had a go at capturing NGC 7023 - Iris Nebula, only managed to get 12 good shots, 240sec x 12, combined in Photoshop with Mean Stacking. The dew was super heavy and currently I do not have any dew heaters (next purchase) so lost the battle after around 2 hours. One interesting point is I captured these shots with the long exposure noise reduction switched on with the Sony A7Rii, so each shot took 8 mins to take and save, but as a result the noise levels were next to zero at 800 ISO, and at the end of the day the noise is always our enemy. I need to try a real pro level 'cooled' astro camera just to see how much better it could be, as the Sony A7Rii is just stellar ! I am very happy with the final shot, taken with my Skywatcher 100 ED Pro Esprit Scope on my NEQ6 mount, Skywatcher ED50 Guide Scope and Altair Astro ASI130mm camera, PHD2 of course. The sky was nice and clear with low light pollution, as around 5 miles from major town. I do not take darks or flats or use Deep Sky Stacker, and I do not use filters, plus the camera has not been modified, so I am always delighted with the results I get from my set-up, as I have a deep level of respect for the hard work that most Astrophotographers go through to get the incredible images that we see here in Stargazers. I have read that some people believe that the Sony Alpha cameras have a tendency to 'eat the stars' and not show everything captured, to be honest, I always used a Canon 60Da for many years for my astrophotography, until one day I though, what if my Sony A7Rii could be used, the first time I did this I released that it was time to sell the Canon 60Da, the 'Remote' (free) Sony software is almost as good as BackYardEOS, but the cameras are a decade apart in performance, the noise levels on the Sony are at least 4 maybe even 5 stops better than the Canon, that is the Sony A7Rii at 3200 iso equal to the Canon 60Da at 200 iso, so at 800 iso it is just so impressive. As you can see from the picture only 12 frames, stacked in Photoshop (Mean). Open to comments and welcome a discussion/debate, thanks Jamie
  5. hi all, thought I'd share a wide field of mine captured on Saturday night (13 Oct) It's another Cassiopeia widefield - is it me or are there loads of us imaging this constellation recently? Shot with my Sony Alpha 200, Sigma 28-70mm F2.8 lens @ 50mm wide open, ISO 800. IIRC it's total of 65 x 20 second lights, 60x 20sec darks and 20x 1/4000sec bias all stacked with DSS and post-processed in PhotoShop CS4. Solved by Astrometry with the following details: (RA, Dec) center:(19.3779150171, 61.1835725999) degrees (RA, Dec) center (H:M:S, D:M:S):(01:17:30.700, +61:11:0.861) Orientation:158.33 deg E of N Pixel scale:44.52 arcsec/pixel Parity:Reverse ("Left-handed") Field size :25.33 x 16.30 degrees Your field contains: The star Caph (bCas) The star Schedar (aCas) The star γCas The star Ruchbah (δCas) The star Navi (εCas) The star ηCas The star ζCas The star ηPer The star κCas The star θCas NGC 129 NGC 281 NGC 869 / Double cluster NGC 884 / Double cluster NGC 896 IC 1795 IC 1805 NGC 1027 IC 1848 Here's the annotated version: and the un-annotated version for the purists: If you think there's more data to pull out, or would like to have a go, I have the raw TIFF file saved from DSS uploaded to my DropBox and can post a link if you want to have a go with it.
  6. Hi all! A petition is now online against the Star Eater. It has been proposed by myself and reviewed by Laurent Laveder, Thierry Legault, Ian Norman, Damian Peach, Aaron D. Priest and Babak Takeshi. We invite you to sign it and share it to the max: http://www.change.org/p/sony-remove-the-star-eater-on-sony-a7s-r-mk-i-ii-and-a9-cameras Clear sky Fred
  7. Only used a handful of times as I switched from using the DSLR to a ZWO camera, so is in perfect condition. Fit's all Sony Alpha 7 cameras (A7, A7R, A7S etc) and is suitable for cameras which have been astro modified. Retail price is £200 but will accept £120 Will post First Class Signed For (UK Only) and payment can be made via PayPal or Bank Transfer Thanks for looking!
  8. Newb here. I have settled on my first telescope being the 4SE or 6SE and I have a Sony Alpha 300 DSLR I would like to be able to connect to play around with AP. I am barely starting to grasp the terminology involved with telescopes in general but it seems connecting a camera to a telescope is a whole different ball game. It seems as though the 4SE has a separate eyepiece and camera attachment? Looks like you can just flip a knob to swap between the viewer and camera? Whereas the 6SE it appears that you have to remove the whole eyepiece to connect the camera. After reading some reviews everyone says they immediately wanted a more powerful telescope so I am thinking the 6SE may be the way to go but I really don't like the idea of having to swap back and forth by removing the eyepiece, is there an after-market accessory that would allow it to work more like the 4SE (flip a switch from viewer to camera and back)? And I guess my other question is are the optics really that much better on the 6SE that it would be worth the hassle when connecting the camera? I see that the light gathering capability and magnification are better but how perceivable is that difference? My goal is to do some moon viewing but it would be great to see some cool deep space objects too. + One final thought, how much does the auto star tracking feature help or hurt the image quality? I mean on a 20 second+ exposure the object is going to move some amount, is the Nexstar tracking system really able to keep the object that precisely still in the optics? Or should I just expect to get blurry spots of light when photographing deep space objects? Thanks
  9. hy, did anyone used sony handycam (cx210) for asteophotography or adtrovideo?if yes, how??
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