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Found 9 results

  1. Sometimes the weather gods look on you kindly. A nice new Samyang 135mm turned up from that well known jungle supplier, I managed to assemble it to my Atik 428ex mono along with an Ha filter and got the spacing correct, and low and behold the skies stayed clear - all on the same day! I am sure there is room for improvement with the processing but this is IC1396 processed in PI; STF applied with HT, and a little HDRM + LHE to try to tease out some detail. Any help on improving the processing would be gratefully received - I really don't feel I get the best out of processing mono images. By the way this is 12x300s + 10x600s combined with HDR process in PI; flats, no darks and a master bias. Thank you for looking. Adrian
  2. Hi everyone. I'm really clutching at straws with these last couple of images but it's all Kerry dark sky reserve is giving up. I was pleasantly surprised at the amount of ha the Sony has picked up. So this is 9 30 second subs at iso 5000 (best not zoom in) Sony A7s through a Samyang 135 mounted on an eq3 pro. Richard.
  3. Hi all, I've just bought a Samyang 14mm f/2.4 for my Nikon D5100 and am not happy with the results. I've already sent one back and now the replacement appears to be just as bad. As you can see in the sample there is quite a difference in quality. The images were taken at a fairly dark area, ISO400 for 30secs on a Star Adventurer. The crop is from the centre of the lens. Image quality only started to improve after stopping down to f/7.1. If the aberrations are this bad at wide open it would effectively be a useless lens. My kit 18-55 zoom gives far sharper stars across the aperture range. Am I expecting too much from the Samyang or should this one be winging its way back too? I appreciate any advice cheers
  4. Here is a recent image taken with two dslr's side by side, one mono and one color. both using Samyang 135mm F2 at F2 104x40s mono 60d iso1600 -69.3 minutes -CLS CCD filter 104x50s RGB 550d iso 1600 -86.66 minutes uv/ir cut filter SQM 21.5 Transparency 5/5 Seeing 1/5 RGB version M81 M82 integrated flux nebula by Wes Schwarz, on Flickr
  5. At last a clear night to give the Samyang Catadioptic 800mm lens a test. This lens was bought in Singapore along with T rings to mount it to a Canon and a micro 4/3rds camera. I tried this on a Panasonic GF2 Micro 4/3rds digital camera mounted on a tripod and up on the upstairs balcony of my house in Shanghai. My Canon 650 and 400D are on their way to the UK. Though the sky was clear the viewing was not good, the Moon was over the houses opposite mine, lots of light pollution, so bad even in a relatively dark area of our estate not even the brightest stars were properly visible. As the lens is totally manual for focus and no electrical connection to the camera, focus and timing has to be set manually, there is no apeture control, you are fixed at f8. Another fact to bear in mind as this is not a digital lens and my GF2 is a micro 4/3rd then the true focal lenght needs to be mulitiplied by at least 1.5, to it was working at 1200mm in my estimation. It is a well made lens, solid and not over heavy and decent resistance in the focus ring. Even with live view and tthe ability to zoom in on the view this is not an easy lens to focus. It did need trial and error to wait for the wobble to die away on the tripod. More practise needed! I tried a number of exposures and settled on 1/200th at ISO800, the image has minimum processing. I also set a 10 sec delay to allow any tripod wobble to die away. There is no mirror on the GF2 so no mirror lock was used. Zooming in on the image reveals that the fine focus needs working on, but no 'donut' was obscuring the Moon. I had heard that some of these catadioptic lenses sometimes suffer from a darkening at the centre of the image. I tried at various exposures down to 1/25th. On the Moon at this phase the over exposure starts to set in at around 1/40th on this lens. Overall I am happy, the lens works but it needs more work playing with it and putting it on a better tripod and once in the UK piggybacking on an EQ mount. It is not particularly fast at f8 but with digital cameras the exposure casn be compensated for. As an indication of the 'zoom' power of the lens 3 other photo's are attached. One shows an overall shot from my hotel in Alamaty (did not get a chance to use the lens there)using the GF2 with a 35mm lens. The second and third show the sign on the top of a building in the middle distance and two tower blocks to the left in the far distance using the 800mm lens. Some heat haze and heat wobble is showing on the latter two.
  6. Had a second clear night last night which is unusual in Shanghai. I did a small mod the Samyang lens so that I had a bit more focus control. Not elegant but it did make it easier. Once I had a more sturdy tripod the focusing will become easier. Samyang 800mm on Lumix GF2 micro 4/3rds ISO800 1/320th.
  7. Have got my second Samyang 14mm (returned the first for decentering) - and last night gave the new one a quick whirl. Having not seen a "good" one and what the output is like, I'm finding it hard to quantitatively assess whether these lenses are in spec or not (it's a bit better than previous one but not perfect). Here's the corners of an image at 100% - this is unreduced, 20sec, f2.8 at 1600ISO on a 350d (APS-C not full frame). My gut instinct says that this would be very soft in the top left on a full frame, though it's at full aperture - would you return this and try again, or do I need to shoot at f4? If you have a "good" example, can you post what your corners look like? Thanks for any guidance...!
  8. Quick process of 12x5min from my modded 350d using a Samyang 14mm lens at f2.8 from last night, taken from our campsite near the Dorgdogne Valley - tracked using a GM-8. Flats, Darks and Bias applied (oh, flats are fun with this lens...!) - and rudimentary processing in PI (BPP, DBE, Background Calibration , CC, Histograms, etc), will have another go when I get home on decent internet with a proper monitor. One thing is that I'm not 100% convinced about this lens - think I'll be doing some further testing as I think it has some decentering. I'm not expecting the world with it wide open, but it's worse to the lower portion than upper if you zoom in (looking for some advice from owners of this lens perhaps!) Thanks for looking (EDIT: See reprocessed version below!)
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