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Found 7 results

  1. Second of my attempts at RGB (rather than LRGB) imaging of globulars in bright moonlight and again I am pretty pleased with the outcome. I imaged M3 in my earlier post binned 2x2 in each channel but decided to try M13 unbinned so what you see below is imaged at a plate scale of around 0.46 arc seconds / pixel. If we get any more clear nights in the near future I intend to re-image this object using an Astrophysics 0.67x reducer to see if there are any major differences (other than the obvious FOV) at a larger plate scale. Minimal processing - just stretching and a little sharpening in PI. The PI Masked Stretch process works very well with globular clusters IMHO bringing out the fainter stars without blowing out the core. 12" TS/GSO RC at F/8 on a Mesu 200. Atik 383l+, AtikEFW2, ATIK OAG, Lodestar X2, Baader 36mm filters R=B = 7 x600s, G = 5 x600s all un-binned. Click on the image and then select "Full Size" if you want to see the full detail :-) Comments Welcome Derrick
  2. Having sold my RC's I have a 2 inch Howie Glatter 635nm laser collimator giving a pencil beam and a second interference filter giving a ring pattern for sale - photo to follow Asking £110 which includes postage to mainland UK addresses.
  3. GSO RC 8" f/8 is on order so apologies for incoming bad weather!! Looking forward to getting the Atik on it!!
  4. I purchased a standard GSO 6" RC telescope late 2016. As with other RC scopes, I've had my share of problems with the collimation. As many of you know collimation of the RC is a bit of a struggle. After reading much of the material online, it seems that the procedure boils down to multiple iterations with the simple Cheshire and something called as Hall of Mirrors aka multiple reflection effect. Below are the test images from tonight. Reference star is Canopus. All images are inside of focus, unless mentioned. The small rectangle shows the location of the star in the FoV. I also built myself an artificial star from Aluminum foil and LED torch and checked the collimation indoors. The indoor test is quite better as seeing conditions have not affected the judgement. As you may all notice, I've used Mire De Collimation exe file for final checking. I've not used a laser collimator or Howie, just a simple Cheshire and a real star, though I'd love to try again with a Howie Glatter.
  5. I’m now seriously thinking about a retirement imaging set up, it will literally be a once in a lifetime opportunity, and it will be a collaborative project so it needs to be the right decision. It looks like an EU purchase so starting to get a bit nervous about what might happen to the GBP post Brexit. I have been imaging with am AA 102 mm APO on a Mesu 200 and Moravian G2-8300 and enjoying it immensely, but my favourite targets are galaxies so a scope with more aperture and focal length is required. I have thought long and hard about a larger aperture longer FL refractor (eg CFF 140 f7.5), it would probably be the least risky and easiest route to success, but I like the idea of co-owning and mastering a scope that requires a bit more maintenance and well frankly, looks the part. To see what I mean take a look at the attached photos, they are both superbly engineered and crafted instruments, but IMHO one looks like it would not be out of place in an f1 garage or NASA clean room, the other, well, just looks like a telescope. I really enjoyed a thread on SGL by the great Rob Hodgkinson a while back where he retro engineered a GSO RC and ultimately produced some absolutely stunning results, and although I won’t ever be at that level, that’s what I’m aspiring to. So with hopefully no offence to refractor aficionados and provided you don’t think I’m mad for letting a bit of emotion influence the decision, my key questions are: On a Mesu mount and housed in a dome, and all other things being equal should the 250 mm CFF RC be capable of producing at least as good as (if not slightly better than)images taken with the CFF 140mm f7.5 frac? The budget could maybe stretch to the 300mm RC, but I think the arc secs per pixel is getting too much for UK skies and maybe the guiding capability, so would the extra aperture it be worth it?
  6. I am taking a slightly different direction with my observatory and imaging, and so I must regretfully offer my GSO RC scope for sale. The Carbon Fibre version, apart from looking very sleek, is much less resistant to changes in temperature, thus reducing the need for frequent collimation The telescope was purchased new by me in August 2012 and I purchased it with the Baader SteelTrack focuser upgrade. There have been no other modifications. The scope has been kept in my observatory – it has only been to three star parties as I recall. While in the observatory it has been kept capped and covered when not in use. The mirror is blemish free, apart from the usual collection of dust! The telescope was purchased new by me in August 2012 and I purchased it with the Baader SteelTrack focuser upgrade. There have been no other modifications. The scope has been kept in my observatory - it has only been to three star parties as I recall. While in the observatory it has been kept capped and covered when not in use. The mirror is blemish free, apart from the usual collection of dust! The specification is as follows: Aperture: 204mm Focal Length: 1624mm Focal Ratio: f/8 Included in this package are the following: Aluminum storage box (not pictured) Red dot finder 25mm and 50mm M90 extension tubes Collimation Tilt Plate Price: 725 GBP The following are also offered for sale, first refusal is given to the purchaser of the telescope Baader Steel Drive Motor Focuser + Handset *: 130 GBP AP 0.67 Reducer: 140 GBP ADM Losmandy Plate: 40 GBP ADM Vixen plate: 40 GBP Howie Glatter 635nm Laser + 2 reticules: 110 GBP StarSharp Bahtinov Mask: 15 GBP Gert Neumann Aurora Flat Panel inc power: 90 GBP However, if someone wanted the whole package then the price would be 1,275 GBP I would prefer the telescope to be collected, or I am happy to travel to meet the buyer. I will obtain courier pricing (insured delivery) if required, but the buyer assumes all responsibility More images can be seen at http://darrenjehan.me.uk/for-sale/
  7. I have an Orion 8" f8 Ritchey-Chretien telescope and I'm trying to figure out the correct extension spacing from the back of my RC telescope while using a focal reducer. I'm using a TS optics 2" ccd47 .67x focal reducer and the stated distance from sensor of camera to the reducer is between 70-90mm with 85mm being the preferred or ideal distance. I've got the spacing to 82.78mm distance from the sensor and I'm curious if this distance is supposed to be "subtracted" from the back focus of the telescope with the extension rings? The telescope came with one 2 inch and two 1 inch extensions for back focus from the telescope, should I use just one 1 inch extension ring, or no extension rings and just attach the focuser straight to the back of the telescope, or a specific combination? I've included an image to help explain my question. The left side is the telescopes manual image train examples and on the right side is a representation of my question. Also when attaching the camera with the 82mm extension tubes and the focal reducer together would you insert the whole setup inside the focuser until the camera is flush with the focuser, or merely insert just the reducer in the focuser and tighten it down that way? (which im assuming is the correct way based on images I've seen with different setups) Telescope: Orion 8" f/8 Ritchey-Chretien Astrograph (1600mm focal length) Camera: Altair Hypercam 183c pro Camera specs: Sensor size 1" (15.86mm diagonal) Pixel Size 2.4um Resolution 5440 x 3648
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