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Found 26 results

  1. I recently acquired a PST and had my first light today...it took a bit of work but I was able to see some great stuff through the EP. However, when I tried to hook up my smartphone to the scope with a phone adaptor I was completely unsuccessful in capturing any good photos. Everything looked way out of focus and I couldn't come close to seeing any of the prominences on the phone that I saw visually. Is this due to the PST's setup? Or am I doing something wrong? I was attempting to do it with an 8mm EP.
  2. Hope this is the right place to ask about the Coronado PST i recently acquired this scope and I can’t get any surface details to show on the sun, I have played with the tuning ring but apart from being able to see some flares on the rim of the sun, no surface details came through. I was using my own 8mm and 11mm Explore what I saw was just a red blob, pretty much like white light viewing with a red filter. Turning the tuning ring only changed the intensity of the light coming through is this what is expected of the PST? Or do you think I am doing something wrong or my PST may well be faulty?
  3. Hi Guys I've now got all of the parts incoming for my 100mm PST Stage 1 mod. So got cracking on dismantling my trusty PST..... I just can't seem to shift the Etalon & Tuner from the gold tube! I know that others have encountered this problem. Any hints about how to get it moving? Paul
  4. I think I first thought about doing a mod late 2012, and... suffice to say I've got distracted and done nothing about it last year. So this year, I will finally get round to the mod! To recap, I have two PSTs, one I'm keeping stock, one I'm modifying. I had all sorts of wacky ideas, but have now decided to go the tradition route and have ordered a TAL 100RS. The only other major component I need then is the D-ERF. I remember it was a common trick to get an under-sized one and insert it into the tube part way down. Here's where I'm getting confused. My previous notes suggest it was a 75mm one, but now I can only see a 70mm one on sale. Next one up is 90mm and also comes with a hefty price lift. Was it actually 75mm or is my memory failing me? I don't think I have much choice other than go for the 70mm.
  5. Hi Folks Ever since looking through Stu's PST Stage 1 Mod at the DIY Peak Star Party. I've been keeping an eye out for a suitable donor scope for my own project. Damn you Stu. He's (removed word) done it again! The man should have a wallet health warning hung round his neck Nothing has appeared on the classifieds / ABS / Auction site. So, I am thinking that I may have to go cheap and new. 100mm f10 seems to be the sweet spot. Most 90mm f10 scopes seem to come with 1.25" focuses and a plasticy feel (Neither desirable). By the time I have added the requisite 2" focuser. I may as well pay for a 100mm with the 2" focuser as standard. Much reading has thrown up two possibles: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/evostar/skywatcher-evostar-102-eq3-2.html https://www.telescopehouse.com/telescopes/bresser-messier-ar-102-1000-hex-focus-optical-tube-assembly.html The price is similar for just the OTA. Which would be better? Or, is there anything else that would work better without baking the bank? Paul
  6. The PST arrived 2 days ago and since then I have been stationed at the lounge window for the faintest whiff of a shadow or direct sunlight. Well today, I had some blue sky and about 30 mins in which to blat a few frames off with a Canon 60D using eyepiece projection ( Baader Zoom). Not much time to record exposure times and ISO's , I just tried to get something before the clouds and a resident pine tree spoiled the party. Anyway I'll save all the technical noodlings to a later date. So here they are. Even got some prom action !! Wow, one of those special moments when a long held ambition materialises in front of your eyes. Any helpful suggestions about how to improve the images and to progress would be most helpful. I think I need a good mono-webcam to bring out more surface detail, although it is ironic that I choose a spotless day ( in the the literal sense) to test the PST. Cheers, Sean
  7. GlassWalker

    Sun 2012091 Ha

    From the album: Sun

    Another day, another sun. My 2nd attempt at a mosaic. Overcooked some parts though...
  8. Had a lovely imaging session on Suday morning in "runoffshed's" back garden with the PST and DMK41, this is my fourth outing with this equipment and the first time with a barlow added. The atmosphere was very steady with the only interuptions coming from Sybil the very curious cat and by John generously providing tea and bacon butty's, this sure beats messing around in the cold and dark The second image is an inverted close-up which to my eye looks like a distant church with a spire next to a tree on top of a hill, needless to say I'm very pleased with the results I'm getting from the little PST. Mel The Tree and the church
  9. GlassWalker

    Sun 20120818 Ha

    From the album: Sun

    Sun still quite busy. First try since I shaved the eyepiece holder allowing it to be captured in one go now.
  10. From the album: Sun

    Close up of prominence at around 8 o'clock of the disc.
  11. Before anyone says it, I have got and fitted the short shoulder-less nose piece and removed the 5mm extension ring it comes with. With that out of the way, the DMK41 arrived today. I ordered the short nosepiece with it, and putting them on the PST the camera body is flush with the end of the eyepiece holder on the PST. It isn't getting any closer. In a quick and frustrating play, I just can't find focus. The sun spent most of the time hiding behind clouds so I didn't get much time, but I went near enough end to end on the focus scale. Before I gave up the sun was behind a TV aerial and trees, and using that as reference I know I can focus closer by rotating the knob clockwise. Infinity should obviously be the other direction, so I wound it as far as I dare anti-clockwise. It hits some resistance and by this point the knob sticks out quite far. So I'm hesitant to go further. Is this normal? Should I keep turning or will something fall apart before I hit an end stop? Any other tips? I did manually adjust the exposure so the sun wasn't blown out, but I haven't really had time to play with the settings yet. Given the sun has gone down now, I'll obviously can't try again until tomorrow (weather allowing).
  12. My first full pano of the sun. Actually, it was a 99% pano as I missed a tiny bit of the edge with all the processed frames, but the content aware fill in Photoshop did a great job. Since it didn't have any real detail in it anyway, I didn't go back to the raw files to expand the processing region right to the edge to recover that. This is also my first time using flats for solar imaging. Why didn't I do this earlier? I only tried it this time as there were rather a lot of dust spots I couldn't clean. In order to make a flat, I did the deep sky trick of putting something over the objective. Unfortunately that killed the sensitivity, so I had to jack up to 2 second exposures and maximum gain to see anything at all. Leaving it running for some minutes I got 200 frames and that stacked into a nice dark frame. Well, almost. I was now getting hot pixels too. My fix for that was using the dust and scratches filter to remove them, tuned so as not to remove the actual dust spots which I wanted to keep! The flats also got rid of the stripe optical interference pattern I got at times. Overall, this does give more detail than a single shot full disc capture. But it's not half a lot more work! I used 11 frames in order to fit it. Kit: PST with Hyperion eyepiece projection into DMK41. No idea what image scale is, but about 3 frames will get me across the sun with overlap.
  13. Hi Guys My solar set up is finally complete.... The latest purchase is the double stack filter which I collected from its former owner on Monday. Incredibly, first light was yesterday. What a fantastic piece of kit!!!! Detail jumping out!! I was one happy happy camper! - must be getting excited about SGLXII - sorry... Tuning the two etalons seemed to be trial and error. Much enjoyable fiddling about with some lovely views, but no method. My question is a simple one. Is there a better way to get the best out of this setup? Any hints & tips greatly appreciated. Paul
  14. From the album: Sun

    Close up of prominence at around 4 o'clock of the disc.
  15. GlassWalker

    Sun 20120820 Ha

    From the album: Sun

  16. Today's sun... all images are 100% crops from DMK41. Best 10% of 1000+ frames. Thought I'd have a go at the prominences close up. Far from easy... since I don't have any workable barlows at the moment, I decided to use eyepiece projection with a Hyperion to T-mount to DSLR to C-mount... this was my first capture of the prominences around 4 o'clock of the disc. I blew the surface here... Here I moved over to the prominences around 8 o'clock of the disc. I fiddled a bit more with the video settings and managed to get both prominences and surface detail at the same time. Side note: I find when I stick more glass in the chain, I can get a diagonal stripe appearing near the centre of the image. It seems to be due to the optical chain, but I'm at a loss as to what causes it, or what could be done to eliminate it. Now I'm wondering if I can get better detail out of a regular PST (single stack), or would there be better gains from going DS or a stage 1 mod to bigger aperture scope...
  17. My 2nd attempt at a mosaic, although I overcooked it a little but I'm not going to reprocess all the frames again in an attempt to fix it! I want more detail...
  18. GlassWalker

    Sun 20120729 Ha

    From the album: Sun

    Lots of stuff going on. The white bit under the lower left sunspot appeared as I was imaging over the course of minutes, and disappeared not long after.
  19. Note I have two PSTs now. One was bought new from earlier this year, serial 1076xx. The older one I bought used, the previous owner said it was about 4 years old. Serial number 1042xx. Both are blue objective style ones. The shaved eyepiece holder. Since the body was scratched I decided to sand it which gives it a brushed metal finish. The blocking filter to the right fell out while I was doing that. It pops in from the top and is held in by a ledge so it doesn't fall out. And to stop it going up, it was glued. Push from the bottom and it should come out. Originally I was going to remove 4mm, but now I hold it next to the unmodified one, I've taken off 5mm or more once the filing and sanding is taken into consideration. Top row left to right: Unmodified eyepiece section, shaved eyepiece section with blocking filter removed, lower section with ERF removed. Lower row left to right: unmodified lower section with ERF, blocking filter without holder, ERF without lower section. The ERF from the old scope, viewed from the lower side (nearest prism). Showing significant signs of damage. To remove this from the lower section, put something into the holes for grip then twist. The same ERF, but from a slightly different angle. The same ERF, but from the top side. ERF from the new PST, top side. Looks totally different. The ERF from the old PST, disassembled further. The clip on the top holds it in once you remove the black gunk. The ERF is a sandwich of three layers. As a general comment, the ERF seems different between the two models even putting aside the damage on the old one. The new one is a golden colour reflection viewed from either side. The old one is golden on the prism side surface only, and red on the top. I noticed the blocking filter section can be dropped into the top of the lower section. When the eyepiece section is screwed back in it holds it tightly. So if it isn't too far down to cause image issues that could be an alternative to gluing it back into the top section. If anyone finds these images useful and wants to use them elsewhere, feel free to do so.
  20. I've been quiet in the background for the past couple of months. Moving back to Oz and doing some "mandatory" renovations etc. Just getting/ making the time to get the gear unpacked. First cab off the rank is the TS102 PST Mod. This 102mm f11 scope is made by Hunming (United Optics), China and sold in the UK as the LYRA. It's a great scope, and perfect for the PST mod (as others have already found) I machined up an adaptor which just replaces the original Crayford focuser. (There's a dovetail connection on the rear of the OTA - just needs 3 x M4 nylon screws to lock it in place)The 2" PST nosepiece is held securely by 3 x M6 nylon screws. No cutting of the OTA and the adaptor can quickly be removed and replaced with the original focuser for white light observing. Takes all of 10sec!! I've also machined up a cell to take the SM60 etalon to give double stacking.... Good to be getting back into it.
  21. GlassWalker

    Sun 20120809 Ha

    From the album: Sun

    Sun in Ha. Lots of stuff going on...
  22. From the album: Sun

    ISS passing across the sun, moving left to right.
  23. I have a second (used) PST on its way to me, so before I get to the typical mods like replacing the objective, I was wondering if there was anything useful I can try with two PSTs first? The thought occurs, could I extract the etalon from the 2nd one and add it to the 1st? Double stack on the cheap. I'm not 100% sure on the threads but could it screw in series with the existing one? But would the positioning in the optical train be thrown out enough to make this unworkable? I'm not sure how much tolerance I have to work with here...
  24. After seeing this thread from Grinde, I'm not sure I should be posting this... I was quite happy till I saw his I borrowed a PST from Jon to use during the transit. I didn't get to use it then, but I woke to blue skies and just had to have a go. I'm still working through 16Gb of AVI's that I took but here is a couple of images that I've processed. The whole disc (well mostly whole) was taken with the DMK with the lens cell of a 2x barlow screwed into 1.25" adapter - giving around 1.5ish increase. It also meant that I could reach focus without any butchering of stuff. As you can see this is a mosaic of around8 or 9 panes. I do have the bit for the middle but it was very poor quality and actually makes the image worse when it's added. I'm annoyed about the limb missing though... more care next time. Also the joins are clearly visible, so again lots to learn and to try and put right for next time. I've added the Earth to give a sense of scale. The next image is same set up but this time I've removed the 2x barlow cell and added in the 2.5 Televue powermate. This was again around 2000 frames with about 1000 used in the stack. Both images have been made "colour" in PSCS5 along with a little play with curves. A slightly larger Earth is again added for scale. Hope you like? Ant
  25. Hi All, I have the following for sale, originally bought for a full PST mod that was never done: Coronado PST - £430. Boxed. Vixen A80M - £150. Includes tubes rings, dovetail and focuser but no box, finder or diagonal. SOLD. 90 mm D-ERF - £200. SOLD. Filter holder - £8. Homemade and bought off a SGL member. Fits the 90mm D-ERF and has a internal diameter of 105mm the other end. SOLD Solar Finder - £15. SOLD. WO Dielectric Diagonal D-DIG2 - £35. Boxed. Bought to be used on the Vixen before the scope was modded. SOLD. All are in excellent condition and do not include postage. Collection preferred for the scopes. Cheers, Jon
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