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Showing results for tags 'prime focus'.
Found 22 results
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Rosette Nebula. 120 x 15s lights for 30min total exposure. ISO800 with Canon 600D modded.
KevinPSJ posted a gallery image in Member's Album
From the album: Kevin Hurleys Deep Space Objects
Canon 600D and Skywatcher 150P EQ3-2 unguided. 120x15s lights (plus darks and flats). Processed with Siril and Startools.© Kevin Hurley, 2022
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From the album: Kevin Hurleys Deep Space Objects
Andromeda Galaxy. Canon 600D (astromodded, no filters) at primefocus of my skywatcher 150P on EQ3-2 with RA clockdrive - no guiding. 30 x 25s lights, 10 darks, 5 flats. Processed in SiriL and startools.© Kevin Hurley, 2022
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- skywatcher 150p
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astrophotography Prime focus with skywatcher 130p
Pincs posted a topic in Getting Started With Imaging
Hi I'm thinking about buying a SKYWATCHER EXPLORER 130P SYNSCAN AZ GOTO TELESCOPE for astrophotography but I've heard that prime focus is not possible without modifications. Could I use an extention tube with my DSLR to fix this? Thanks. Pincs -
From the album: Kevin Hurleys Deep Space Objects
What a great night last night. Found my first Virgo cluster galaxies! Located without seeing anything in my finderscope - figured I must be in the right place as there were almost no stars. Had to take a quick shot at high ISO to confirm there were galaxies there. Really pleased to see 3 Messier galaxies and a whole bunch more pop out after 20 min. If I hadn't spent a hour messing about with polar alignment and collimation I would have grabbed more integration time. Oh well - lesson learned. While this was imaging I got out my binoculars and found M104 too. Will try to image if there's another good night like last night.© Kevin Hurley, 2021
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From the album: Quick snaps to go with visual observing sessions
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From the album: Kevin Hurleys Deep Space Objects
© Kevin Hurley, 2021
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From the album: Kevin Hurleys Deep Space Objects
First attempt at imaging Andromeda galaxy. It doesn't fit fully in the frame. Captured 40x 30s subs of lights plus 10 darks and 7 flats. Stacked in Deep Sky Stacker for total of 14min 45s. Processed in Startools but struggled to get the colour looking right.-
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- skywatcher 150p
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From the album: Kevin Hurleys Deep Space Objects
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M27 Dumbbell Nebula. 5mn 2s, ISO 100. Skywatcher 150p with Nikon D3200
KevinPSJ posted a gallery image in Member's Album
From the album: Kevin Hurleys Deep Space Objects
M27, the Dumbbell Nebula. Using Nikon D3200 at prime focus of my 150mm aperture F/5 Skywatcher 150P on EQ3-2 with RA drive and no guiding. 5min exposure from best 10 of 20 30s subs, aligned and stacked in DSS. Post processing using Startools - stretched, binned, cropped and colour balanced. -
From the album: Astrophotography
Taken from our front yard in Atlanta, we only have a small window into the cosmos through the tree cover. In order to capture Jupiter at Opposition I had to wait until 3am when the planet came into view. ISO 100 1/20s© Charles Duffney
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From the album: Astrophotography
We set up the telescope in Cabbagetown Park, Atlanta to share the event with our neighbors. In addition to creating this image, several people took their first ever look through a telescope, witnessing a rare planetary transit of the Sun no less. This was also my first time using the solar filter and observing the Sun through my telescope. ISO 100 1/125s© Charles Duffney
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From the album: My (very amateurish) attempts at astrophotography!
Jupiter and 3 of its Galilean moons. Canon 70d, 8" Dobsonian, prime focus Manually tracked, composite image 1 x 30 sec video for Jupiter PIPP, Registax, Lightroom Single exposure for moons -
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KevinPSJ posted a gallery image in Member's Album
From the album: Kevin Hurleys Deep Space Objects
Reprocessed the pervious image - using Startools again but this time stretched to the point where the noise is visible in the image. The nebulosity comes out now but it's accompanied by grainy bands unfortunately. 120 lights - 30s @ ISO 100, 20 darks, 23 flats, 20 biases. I think I needed more darks.© Kevin Hurley, 2021
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From the album: Kevin Hurleys Deep Space Objects
Longest imaging session on one target so far. In total 1 hour of lights with 20 min of darks - one set of darks at the start of the session and one at the end. Still struggling with noise in the image though so can't push the nebulosity as much as I'd like. I think I can try with longer subs to see if that reduces the noise issues. The stars in the center are nice and round with 30s subs so I suspect I could go to 45s or even a minute and still have usable stars.-
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So, I have gone and got myself a Skywatcher Star Discovery 150p, which has so far proved to be a very good little scope and I've had some very good results. I have now got the bug for imaging and have gone out and got myself a second hand Nikon D5100 and verious other equipment needed to do this, only to now find I can't get Prime Focus!!!!!!!! So the only way I can image is using a barlow x2 which obviously changes the F ratio from F5.5 to F11 slowing everything x2 this isn't to bad for planetary imaging but for DSO images not so good!!! After searching through lots of videos on to do this all I can find is...... I can either butcher the standard rack and pinion focuser that's fitted on it by cutting it down and rethreading it or by moving the primary up by 20-25mm, which seems a shame to do a brand new scope still under warranty! The only other option I have come up with is changing the focuser to a Skywatcher Low Profile Dual Speed Focuser For Newtonian Reflectors. Could anyone out there shed any light on this before I spend another £130 on the new focuser. Thanks -
Purchased the Orion Astroview 6 three years ago. Found out later that I could not attach my Canon EOS XTi and obtain focus. Everything I saw online required sawing and drilling the OTA. That makes the scope a single purpose telescope. After reviewing the primary mirror holder I created a holder that moved the mirror 25 mm. This way I can keep the scope ready for visual observing and sell later if I desire. If you're interested in saving a few dollars in this hobby check out the link below. How I Moved Prime Focus: Link to the detail. Photo from this telescope
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Hi, I just got a canon eos 600d to take pictures with my skywatcher 200p scope. I am using prime focus with it which seems to work fine despite the problems people face with getting it to focus. I plan to get some great shots of the moon, planets and orion nebula but I was wondering if theres a way I can get shots of dimmer objects in the sky. At the moment i am finding this hard as I am limited to a 1.5 second shutter speed in order to prevent star trails, I am putting the ISO up high to get the most light but I was wondering if there were better ways to go about getting the best pictures without a tracking mount. Thanks.
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Hi, i have a nikon d3200 and astromaster 130eq. I want to click picutres with my dslr mounted on the telescope. I have a tring and adapter but the picture is always blurred and i can never get it sharp
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I decided to try imaging Jupiter for the first time last night - this was the result. Nothing spectacular, but it's a start I guess! I'm wondering if anyone can give me any tips on how to get more detail? I took this using a Canon 70d attached to an 8" Dobsonian at prime focus 1 x 30 sec video Stabilised in PIPP Stacked in Registax Wavelet adjustments Am I missing something? I mean, I'm happy with the result considering the video was terrible, but I'm sure there's something more I could be doing. Would adding a barlow lens give better results?
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Hello Can I ask what is the current wisdom to connect a Dslr to a Newtonian. I have a skywatcher 150pds. Is the right way to try and achieve prime focus? Or is it advisable to use a Barlow? And if this is the case does it need to be a good one if it's for imaging? Obviously this will be used in conjunction with a coma corrector Baader. I have no idea what gives the best results in Astrophotography and as I haven't bought them yet I would like to hear your ideas. I notice for example there is a standard celestron Barlow but also ED types and others. My camera is a Canon 550d. Thanks.
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Greetings, I just recently acquired a 10ft (3.048m) Prime Focus Mesh Satellite Dish. It's not in too bad of shape for it's age (probably late 70's or early 80's?) and I still have yet to test the actuator arm or motor. Those aren't too expensive to replace. It currently has a Dual motorized C/Ku Band LNB feedhorn on it, which is in the range of 3.4-4.2 GHz, from my understanding, is almost entirely TV satellites. I'm looking to downlink GOES Satellites to receive full disk images of earth, and it seems I need some type of LNB in the L-band range of 1600-1700MHz (can't remember exact frequency at the moment). I've searched and searched online and it seems that there's not a lot of L band LNB products for prime focus dishes. Most are made with an Off Axis dish, however I've heard of other's using a prime focus dish for this exact purpose. Does anyone have any links to a product page for a receiver/lnb that will work? Or is there a DIY method for making my own? Would greatly appreciate any help! We are planning on mounting it onto a two wheeled vehicle trailer, and repairing the actuator arm and using a positioner system to control the direction of the dish. Thanks!
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After messing around with the primary moving it as far up the tube as i felt safe i decided to check if i could gain focus with the webcam. tried to zoom about looking to see if i could spot any stars but i could not. so i pointed it on the moon ( i know i should have started on that anyways! ) and i got a bright white fuzzy image, began playing with the focus and i got a sharp clean image of the moon on my laptop! really really magnified. more so than i thought it would be. even though i had the scope aligned and the tracking was running the moon was moving out of the fov far faster then i antisipated. i was still happy i got it to work! my next target was saturn since it was high in the sky, turned out with it having such a high magnification it was impossible to get it centered with out the use of an eyepiece. once i got it centered on the screen it was moving FAST. I dont think i have the tracking set correctly in Carte Du Ciel if it is possible to adjust the tracking speed. now come the questions Using Carte Du Ciel are there ways i can change the tracking speed of my mount? other than buying a reducer is there a way i can change the fov? are their any good guides for Carte Du Ciel to assist me with the myriad of options in the program? is there a general rule of settings with sharpcap that can be followed, or is it just play till its right? thank you all for any help offered! clear skies!
