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Found 7 results

  1. Ok, apologies if this sounds crazy, so here goes. 1: Counter Balance track on OTA 2: Half kilo counter weight on track adjustable. 3: Power Tank / Jump starter on floor. 4: Trailing Leads causing trip hazard. 5: That all adds up to ££££££'s and extra kit to pack. Ok now my solution, or am I crazy. Aluminium T'Track attached to OTA. T'Track sliding bolt and a bracket. POWERBANK attached as counter weight/Power supply. I can they run cables to stuff mounted on OTA / Microfocuser / imaging Kit / Goto Power Supply etc. So no trip hazards, cables neat tidy on OTA, no cord wrap issue, smooth power supply, counter balance all from one piece of kit. Going to try it maybe or am I crazy. I don't have a lot of extra weight on my LX90gps 8" so about half a kilo should do it. What do you think?????? Example Powerbank: EC Technology at £37, Key Specs – Capacity: 22,400mAh; Input: 2 x micro USB; Outputs: 2 x USB; Dimensions:157 x 78 x 22mm; Weight: 439g
  2. All, I'm looking at this battery to power my Celestron Slt 127 Mak with original alt/az mount. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Leisure-Battery-12v-110Ah-Lucas-LX31MF/dp/B0039TEDVQ/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top However at some point when the £££ allows i will be upgrading to the heq 5 GOTO mount so from what I've read on here that battery should sort me out for both. Accessories http://www.amazon.co.uk/TRIXES-Battery-Cigarette-Lighter-Adaptor/dp/B005G39HLY/ref=pd_sim_auto_7 http://www.firstlightoptics.com/power/skytron-power-supply-cable-for-skywatcher-celestron-mounts.html I have a laptop and a meade dsi 2 colour camera, but rather than complicate things I'm going to buy a second battery for that which both battery's should serve me about 5hours. Appreciate peoples opinions on this regards
  3. Hi all, for the time being while away from home I have been using my car's own battery to power my setup but last time out I noticed some curious happenings & only recently have put it down to what I think is a power issue. I had setup my equipment as usual & my scope seemed to be tracking just lovely. I got a bit chilly & decided to sit in my car for a while to warm up with the engine running & heater on. After some time and slightly warmer I switched the ignition off, left my car & took a peek through my scope, it was way off target. At this time I didn't associate this error with a power issue. Once again, started and achieved alignment, scope was tracking beautifully for a long while, again, after getting cold again I did the same as before and got in my car, started it up and sat there to get warm. Some time passed. Upon checking the scope again, again it was off target. By this time the sky was getting light & I didn't want to bother starting a new alignment procedure so I packed up. It wasn't really until I got home that it dawned on me that the process of me starting my car whilst my equipment was connected directly to the battery could have been the cause for the tracking glitches. I understand that the process of starting a car alters the voltage in the battery and I am wondering if this either drop off or surge in voltage disrupted the tracking of my scope. Could this be the case? So anyway, I have decided to build a field power pack but just want to clarify some details with you brainy lot. CPC Mount 12V x 1.5A = 18W (i'll allow 20W) info from: http://www.rothervalleyoptics.co.uk/celestron-cpc-925-xlt-telescope.html Laptop INPUT 19V x 2.37A = 45W OUTPUT 14.8V x 2520MAH = 37.3WH estimate of power need through normal 6hr battery life (( 45 x ( 37.3 / 45 )) / 6 ) = 6.2W DSLR INPUT 8V x 3A = 24W OUTPUT 7.2V x 1040MAH = 7.49WH estimate of power need through normal 4hr battery life (( 24 x ( 7.49 / 24 )) / 4 ) = 1.9W DEW HEATERS (ASTROZAP) 1 x SCT9.25 12V x 1.3A = 15.6W 2 x 1.25" 12V x 0.25A each = 6W total 1 x 2" 12V x 0.35A = 4.2W So far I calculate a total of 54W per hour or allowing for a 12 hour stint 648W total I was also wondering if I need to factor in my ZWOASI224MC camera which runs via USB3 on my laptop & also my Flat Panel Maker, which runs via regular USB power? That said, I have been considering these batteries: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00XNC7KZ0 which are a pair of 12v 33AH AGM Scooter batteries which should allow a total of 792W which should cover my needs. Do all my above calculations look OK? Do I need to place any type of voltage regulator between the batteries and the outlet? Regards.., Kirk
  4. Having forgotten to regularly charge my powertank it now only lasts around the 3 hour mark and I am only using it to power my Celestron 8SE. I tried searching on the forum for suitable replacement batteries or measurements as I just wanted to replace the battery. I couldn't find this info anywhere so I took the side off (8 screws on the 7ah version—see image—the only hidden screw was in the accessory tray under the lid—although you do need a long-bladed (?) Philips to reach some of the screws). Once off I measured the battery and it is Length 150mm, Height 100mm, Width 65mm. I thought at first that I would be able to fit a larger capacity battery but soon realised that you can't unless you started modifying the case. The largest capacity battery I could find with the right measurements was a Yuasa Yucel Y9-12 which is a 9ah model priced at £15.99 from Hardwareexpress. I hope this will help others with the 7ah powertank who want to change the battery and who can use a screwdriver.
  5. Skywatcher Skymax 127 Synscan AZ GOTO Barlow Lens (1.25") 6x30 Finderscope 90° Star Diagonal (1.25”)- Repaired SynScan AZ GoTo Computerised Alt-Azimuth HD Go-To Mount with Handset Stainless Steel Tripod with Accessory Tray Extras ------ Skywatcher WiFi Adapter (This is so you can use your mobile phone for control to control the scope instead of the handset) Celestron Powertank with cable & charging plug T Adappter & Ring for Canon 1300D Camera Meade 8- 24 Zoom lens Bahtinov mask x 2, One for telescope and a small one for canon camera lens L Bracket for attaching a camera to the mount rather than piggybacking onto the scope Plastic carry case for lenses masks etc. Diy Solar filter using Baader Solar Film Turn Left at Orion Book and The Sky at Night paperback Patrick Moore This telescope and accessories are only 6 month old and I have only used it 3 times, so it is like brand new except for the star diagonal which has been repaired. Powertank was bought at christmas and has only been charged once The star diagonal got dropped and the silver insert (the bit that you put the eyepiece into) that screws into it became slightly loose in the threads so I repaired it by putting superglue on the threads and screwing it back in. It is held solid now and no glue is visible and all the eyepieces fit perfectly. All instruction manuals and tools still in bag. Non Smoking Household £400 ono reduced Location Bolton, North West England. Collection or I can do local delivery in person. I would prefer this as postage would be expensive also the risk of damage in transit. If needed then I estimate around £15 due to size and amount of items if sent by courier.
  6. I would like to run my Canon SL1 off of a Celestron powertank. I have the AC adapter for the Canon, which uses the DR-E15 "fake" battery. I have also purchased this DC-DC adapter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KGKFA4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Now all I need is a way to connect the fake battery to the DC-DC adapter, preferably without having cut/solder anything. After much searching, I am fairly confident that the fake battery takes a 3mm x 1.1mm right-angle connector, but so far, I've been unable to find one. Does anyone know where I could find this connector, or is there another avenue I should pursue?
  7. Over the past couple of months have been putting together the components to build my own 12v Power Tank. Finally got around to putting it all together. Not really being a DIY person, this was a bit of a leap into the unknown for me, anyway it’s all put together now and works a treat. Thought I’d share my experience just in case there is someone out there thinking about a similar exercise, but a bit concerned about proceeding. Here’s the list of components: Maplin heavy duty flight case - https://www.maplin.co.uk/p/large-high-impact-case-with-pre-cut-foam-interior-n14gr - £49.99 Bluesea Fusebox . https://seamarknunn.com/acatalog/fuse-block-screw-terminal-blade-6-way-4695.html - £46.35 Dual 12v Power Interface Panels with USB and voltmeter x2. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/253302906460 - £30.36 LED Blade fuses - 3A x 4 £3.96 7.5A x 4 £ 6.78 In-line LED fuse holders x 2 - £11.38 10A Twin core power cable (3 metres) £7.47 8A Rated crimp connectors (male and female) - £5.00 Total Cost - £ 161.29 Connecting everything together was actually quite simple in the end, all that was required was to crimp the wiring together and connect the leads to the fuse box and the various device interfaces, ensuring of course that the live and earth wiring is correctly connected. To add to the build I already had 2 10ah Deben Tracer LiPo batteries with power leads which have supplied my field power for the past 4 years these retail at £149.99 bringing the total cost of the power tank to £311.28. This might be viewed as a considerable outlay for power, however my view is that it’s money well spent. My power is now contained in a waterproof, easily transportable container and greatly simplifies my setup and tear down procedure when in the field. The proof of course as they say is ‘in the pudding’. I used the unit for the first time last weekend and it delivered just as expected. I’ve attached a couple of pics one showing the internal layout and another showing the unit connected up, supplying power to my dew controller, WiFi and Sphinx SXW Mount/Starbook.
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