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Does anyone have any recommendations for a short SCT/1.25mm visual back please? While Jupiter’s favourable I fancied trying my hand at planetary on my 8 Edge HD. Problem is my image train is about 30mm greater than Celestron’s recommended back focus of 133.35mm. The only element I think I can change is the visual back which accounts for nearly 60mm. My train: ASI 224MC > ZWO ADC > Celestron X-Cel LX 3x Barlow > Celestron Edge 1.25mm visual back TIA

Hi all, This is my first post here so apologies if this isn’t the right topic to post this thread on. I’m a fairly new astronomer and use a Skywatcher 200P Dobsonian Classic, and had great fun with it. I’ve so far been able to get great views of Jupiter, The Moon, the Pleiades and also the Orion Nebula. All have been imaged from a heavily light-polluted location (central Tyne and Wear) but I don’t feel this has impeded viewing significantly. Saturn is currently in the evening sky, but it has been too low to image with the scope. I’ve also tried to find Uranus, the Pinwheel Galaxy and the Andromeda Galaxy, but it is difficult to locate any of these due to the light pollution washing out certain stars I intend to use as waypoints in the sky to locate these objects. Consequently, I’m looking for a sufficiently dark location in or near the North East with an unobstructed view of the West/South-West sky (hopefully to see Saturn before it disappears this month). I know of a few good areas with almost zero light pollution locally, namely Derwent and Kielder reservoirs, although their hilly locales still make it difficult to see objects low in the sky. Does anybody here have suggestions over appropriate locations? I’m happy to travel an hour or more, as long as the roads are safe and I won’t have to carry my huge Dobsonian too far from a parking location! Thanks in advance and all the best, JM.

Hi guys Help please. Last night I purchased an old celestron c8 sct, 2000mm fl, f10 on a fork mount. The mount has no power cable so is pretty useless, but i brought it to defork the ota for planetary imaging and hopefully some small faint dso's. It was a reasonable price. Ive got a heq5 pro mount that i will be mounting it onto. The guy said it needs collimation. I know i need to mount it on a vixen dovetail but the bolt holes dont line up anywhere. Its as if someone has rotated the corrector plate housing around 120 degrees. Would it make a huge difference if i removed the housing screws and put it back so that the bolts line up, keeping the mirror and plate in the same spot on the housing bracket, or would i have to try put everything back separately in different positions and collimate everything from scratch. The picture at the minute doesn't quite get crisp so whatever has been done needs rectifying. Can this even be done by us regular folk? Any thoughts or ideas, instructions? I feel the plate could do with a clean and the primary mirror itself. I just want it as optimum as possible. And can a hyperstar be fitted to these older versions? Im literally starting from scratch with an sct setup. Also what type of camera would suit a scope with this focal length for faint dso's, i have a gp290c for the planetary side of imaging. Sorry for the bombardment of questions.

which webcam is best for planetary imaging under 25 USD . If you have experience of any webcam for planetary work please help me out

Hi there! I am seeking for advice from you good people. I want to create a setup for stargazing which is fully automated. Ideally every process like scope calibration, guiding, tracking, focusing and taking photos should be done through WiFi, preferably from an iPad tablet. Planetary imaging is the main purpose. I don't really care about deep space imaging. I want the whole setup to be rather cheap, small and light, at the expense of imaging quality. I am a total noob (used to play with an ETX-70 lots of years ago), but I really need the functionality I have described above. I am thinking of using the bellow components and kindly request that you correct/add to the list: 1) AstroFi 102 2) A ZWO camera suitable for planetary imaging (any ideas for less than or equal to $250) 3) An auto focuser and motor drive (any ideas) 4) Smth like an ASi air device? Is a guider necessary for planetary imaging, by the way? Do you think I am in the right path? I still have not been able to really comprehend the full picture. Is what I am asking for doable? Thank you very much in advance!

After many hours of fiddling round with Registax wavelet settings to process my own solar system images, I've always been curious as to how it actually works. In doing so I've put together my own image sharpening program which does something similar to Registax wavelets. For comparison, I've also added some general purpose deconvolution techniques which you'll probably be familiar with from other image processing software (like Wiener inverse filtering, Richardson-Lucy, etc). In choosing a point spread function to deconvolve with, one suprising result was that the typical stack outputs from Autostakkert work best with a Lorentz point spread function (with a minor modification). Deconvolving with a Gaussian point spread function doesn't really work. Deep-sky images seem to deconvolve best with a Moffat point spread function (which is to be expected - it's already well established that star profiles in long exposures are best approximated with a Moffat function). On the whole, it's unlikely that you can sharpen solar system images much more in this program than you already can in Registax. You can see results from Registax wavelet (sharpening layers), inverse filtering (e.g. Wiener), and iterative deconvolution (e.g. Landweber) below. They all give very similar results. In all the techniques there's a similar trade-off between less noise but less detail vs more noise but more detail. There are some quick start notes on the first page of the Readme here: https://github.com/50000Quaoar/Deconvolvulator/blob/main/Readme.pdf There are some examples of deconvolved images here (move mouse over image to see before/after): https://50000quaoar.github.io/Deconvolvulator/ Image credits are on the hyperlinks The Windows download is here: https://github.com/50000Quaoar/Deconvolvulator/raw/main/Deconvolvulator32.zip Example solar system tifs to experiment with are here: https://github.com/50000Quaoar/Deconvolvulator/tree/main/image%20examples And the project page is here (with Source code in the src folder) https://github.com/50000Quaoar/Deconvolvulator If anyone finds it useful, do post here how it compares to other tools you use for solar system image sharpening. The download and the source code are free, you can use it unrestricted for any purpose. The OpenCV and OpenCVCSharp components which my program use have licence information at the end of the Readme.pdf. Sam

Hi all, I am using, though not so frequently, FireCapture to capture planetary/moon frames for subsequent processing with Registax6. My equipment is Meade 7"ED refractor 1600mm focal length on Losmandy Gemini II mount (manual), TIS DMK21AU618 mono videocam, and Baader RGB dielectric filters. Since about one year, I find streaks in the final processed images, similar to a moving picture, but not so well defined. I don't find anything similar in Jupiter and Saturn images. Nothing similar appears in galaxy images I shoot more frequently with different capture devices/software. I have tried to change several Registax parameters in the Align step, without success. I also tried not to align frames at all with Registax, by straightforward stacking frames taken with the Firecapture autoalign tool on, but didn't succeed in eliminating streaks. This told me that streaking is not Registax fault, but Firecapture's. So, at first, I resorted to set back to default all Firecapture settings to cancel out some wrong input I may have set erroneously and saved. The first option I got was "Updating Firecapture to last version": my version is 2.6.08 and the latest available update is 2.7.09! In addition, the system cracks as soon as I click "Download"! Does anyone have any idea whetherFirecapture ceased in the last many years? Or if the software was completely changed? Where else it can be found? I would also welcome suggestions of different and up to date software for planetary capture, suitable for TIS DMK21AUMoon_220316_201509_18_R.bmp618......maybe it's time to change... Thank you. Best, Francesco

Hello, I'm currently using the Skywatcher Skyliner 200P reflector telescope with the 10mm and 25mm EPs that came with it. I have been viewing for a while now and think its time I upgraded the eyepieces. My budget is around £500. I'd like to be able to get a range of EPs that will provide me with wide view and higher magnification viewing (a shorter length, longer length and a barlow (or perhaps a powermate but I dont know much about these other than they are seemingly better than barlows - perhaps a little over budget)). I enjoy both planetary and DSO viewing though if I had a preference it would be the latter. I wear eyeglasses having astigmatism in both eyes so eye relief is important. I mainly view from rural areas but will sometimes get it out in my rather light polluted back garden, so I am flexible with exit pupil size (the maximum being 31/35mm I reckon). There is quite a selection of vendors and I am hoping you folks can help me narrow down my choices with some first hand experience Cheers, Nathan

Hi Stargazers, After a lot of work and help from the great Damian Peach I managed to get some really good images of Jupiter Mars and Saturn despite a total spend of just £100... and I made another bonkers Astrobiscuit video about it which I hope you enjoy. Mr Peach really helped me pick my nights to image and the other big surprise was how good the canon 600D is at planetary. All comments/ advice/ criticisms most welcome...

I've had a boiling Summer and imaging wasn't worth it , if we get a cold front I'll be out there. I happened to get a night where between dipping in the pool and running some planetary was made achievable without sweating to death. Jupiter 10,330 frame avi using 10,000 on the 1st image 7-15-18 and 75% of 10,330 on the 2nd with the GRS and the 3rd was the 1st taken with 80% of 10,330 7-15-18 and the 3rd was 7-14-18 and more data to process , yall . As2 and registax 6 wavelets was used to achieve these. I couldn't get the efw to work in Sharpcap 3 that night do to user error. I wasn't going to post but, it's the only night I've gathered any data this Summer and Jupiter is out of my FOV till Winter. Hopefully , I can try my hand at lrgb next time on this target.

So I'm looking for the best grab and go planetary viewing (and maybe some DSOs) telescope that is relatively cheap (below 500$) that will also support some Astrophotography. I know the SkyMax 127 is a Maksutov and therefore has a high F number, but I'm okay with that because I'll just pop on a 0.5x focal reducer to bring it down to F/6 (still a bit high though.) With said Grab and Go I'm interested in viewing Saturn and Jupiter with high detail. What do you recommend? Clear skies, Leon. Edit: I need one that'll fit into the Sky Watcher EQ5.

Hi All, after years of pressing my smartphone camera to the eyepiece and taking pictures of the moon I tried attaching my DSLR (An old entry level Canon) to my Skywatcher 200 (1200mm focal length) on a dobsonian mount. I could not achieve focus whichever way I went. However, it seemed that what was needed was to be able to move in more than was available. What am I doing wrong? How can I get the camera to focus?

Hi All I have recently bought a QHY163C and sold my original square QHY8 which I had had for a few years Nothing wrong with the QHY8 and I was reasonably pleased with the stuff I did with it...but itchy fingers/wanting to try something new/set cooling point/ heated window etc tempted me and I have just sold the QHY8 Most of the Photography I do is deep sky but I have had a dabble at Luna and Jupiter with various webcam type cameras and currently have an Imaging Source DBK21 AU04 (colour) What I want to know is how will the QHY163 compare to the DBK21 on planetary and moon pics? I have read that the 163 is suitable as a planetary cam as it is capable of high frame rates and 2x2 binning and wondered if anyone had used both types...ie a Largish Chip DSO cam that can also do planetary against a dedicated small chip Planetary cam. If I can expect as good or better pics with the 163 then I might as well sell the DBK21 Unfortunately due to weather etc other than bench testing the QHY163 I havnt used it all on anything yet. Thanks Tom Start new topic

Hey StarGazersLounge Forums, I am an amateur in astrophotography and have so far taken photos of the Moon and some planets with my camera. However, I am looking for a major upgrade in order to take astrophotography to a professional level as I have long been passionate about astronomy. My overarching aim with astrophotography is to take high quality photos of many planets and continue my interest with the universe. I would be very grateful if anyone could recommend the best set up regardless of the price at the moment as I will work from there. This includes a camera, mount and eyepiece for the Celestron 8se etc so I can get a good idea of what I need to get some amazing planetary shots. By the way, for the camera, I am considering the Sony a7r iii (good choice?) for astrophotography and nature photography as well. Any form of advice would be much appreciated. George

Apologies up front if this is a little long or rambling. There are some conclusions at the end if you want to skip ahead. Last night I got the chance to try out my new WO binoviewers. Having read some posts on the forum about the benefits of binoviewing I’d decided to put them on my list and to get some to improve my view of the planets now and in coming years. Setting up both scopes (a newt and a frac on tracking mounts) at around 10.30pm I was just aiming to make this work with both scopes and to see whether they needed the 1.6x barlow that’s included in the box to achieve focus. If that went well, then I’d see what kind of difference they’d make to observing planetary targets. Jupiter was waiting. Firstly, the build and feel of them is good. The eyepiece holders are focusable and smooth and there’s nothing flimsy. Inserting the viewer into the newt it quickly appeared that I didn’t have enough back focus to get an image. Hmmm. Ok let’s try the Frac. Again, no joy. I even removed the spacing rings on the frac focuser… close but it’s not quite there. So, a quick rummage through my bits and pieces and I wonder, how about trying the element from the ES 2x barlow I have instead of the 1.6x? Well amazingly yes. That’s focussed, and wow. The viewers come with two 20mm eyepieces but with the barlow the image scale with Jupiter is good and the planet and its closest moons fill a nice portion of the field and the planets disc seems about the same size as I’d expect using a 5mm eyepiece. As I sat and tweaked the focus the grs and the main equatorial belts began showing some more detail and colour, and the temperate regions the same. It’s obviously a good seeing night as the whole planet seems mostly stable with just occasional wobbles but I’m really picking up more detail at a better scale than I have before. The images come together nicely and although it is a bit dimmer than with just one ocular, on a bright target like this that’s no bad thing and there is no squinting or need for an eye patch or anything else to distract. Very relaxing. I try a couple of 12mm celestron plosyls to see if I can up the image size. The result is not great though; bigger yes but mushier and the narrower field of view really feels uncomfortable compared to the 66 degree supplied eyepieces, so it’s quickly back to those. It’s at about this point that I get buzzed by a couple of dozey cockchafer beetles who seem to want to break into my kitchen by headbutting the window until something gives! I’m also getting pretty dozey and although I‘m desperate to wait for Saturn and Mars I decide to pack things up. It is nearly 2am. The evening’s highlight though comes just before I pack up and I see a distant bird (maybe an owl) fly in front of Jupiter’s disc! It only lasts a second. I’ve seen the occasional one when viewing the moon but never this. Really unexpected. Conclusions. Did they work straight out of the box with my set ups? Well no, but a bit of fiddling and I got there. I kind of expected that. I’ll try a few other combinations next time and see if the 1.6x element will work. Are they good quality? Well they seem solid and give clean and clear views. So far so good. Did binoviewers improve my planetary viewing? Yes. If future nights are only partly as good I’m converted. I was very impressed with the views of Jupiter this evening. Probably among the best I’ve ever had in terms of detail and the scale at which I saw it. In part that was down to the conditions being good but also, I’m sure down to the fact that I could relax both eyes and just wait for those better moments to see what’s really there allowing me to see more details on those belts and the spaces between. I’m really looking forward to the next opportunity with the planets and bring on that devil’s light bulb I say! Thanks for reading. Dan

Hi guys, I managed to get this picture last night using my Celesteon SCT 9.25, with an old Cannon Rebel camera which had a x2 Barlow attached and went into the diagonal. Not sure what the expose time was but it was very short as longer exposure made it white with no orange band detail. Just edited the image on my iPhone. No stacking nothing. Can I expect much better pictures with my kit? If so how? Many thanks Paul

Hello! i am seeking the help of those with experience in refractors please!! I have been an amateur since i was just a wee lad, i have always owned catadioptric and reflectors of many types, unfortunately short of my current Lunt LS60PT and the department store pea shooter i had as a 12 year old and my which spent way more time peering through windows in the apartment complex across the street than gazing at the sky i have NO experience with refractors. This is where forums like this come in, ok this is what id like to do, my budget is around US1,200, for this i would be looking at a doublet no doubt, i would like it to be in the F5-F7 range? this would offer some flexibility for both visual and future basic AP dabbling. I mainly would like this refractor for planetary, lunar and double star observing, i do hear that nothing beats a refractor for these objects and I'm itching to see for myself. I realize that this budget will not get me an NP101 or any other triplet for that matter, but i would like the best for that price in the 100mm range preferably since id love to stretch its legs on lunar and planetary. i also own a 12" lightbridge but this is definitely not a grab and go scope which is what id love to have now, CA would be an issue not so much for visual but future photo work id like something that performs reasonably well in the CA department. if anyone out there has had much experience with refractors id love to hear from you! Thank you all!!!

These settings during capture seemed to do better by lowering the saturation . But, why am I getting pixilation on the edges? HELP ADVICE?

1st Jupiter with TV5x power mate and t-ring through an 8 in. astrograph on lxd55 mount on a sorry night.

My skills are lacking and what better way to improve than to process some older archived data from April of this year. This was taken with an 8 in. Newtonian astrograph , lxd55 mount , Spc900/3x and 6 attempts w/ reg6 on auto and 1 attempt going through and picking which frames to stack from my clipboard. Colors are still giving me trouble getting them just right and in the right places.

I took this back in June and finally got around to processing it this morning, taken with 8 in. newt./lxd55/ Levenhuk T510NG /5x great seeing high in the sky @opposition. Merry Xmas