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Showing results for tags 'mono dslr'.
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...It's enought to celebrate, heck it's enough to get drunk I say...! Yesterday it's was clear and so I had to make the yearly M42 image, it's already late for it as it's getting behind the roofs for me but even so i managed to get 7x10 min. subs and another 10x30 secs for the core, cooked it all an there you go, a clean and detailled Orion nebula The image is resized to 50% resolution but still there's plenty of details to take in, check out the trapezium fully resolved, in the full resolution image there's even E and a hint of the F component there at only 800 mm f/l...cool https://www.flickr.c...eposted-public/ Hope you enjoy, Cheers, P.S: Thanks to Jerry Lodriguss for the tutorial in PS, I allways get at it when processing images of M42...as I forget how to do it every time
I have succeeded in mono modifying my Canon 1000D and now a Canon 450D. In doing this I have chosen to remove both of the internal filters (color and IR) making the camera full spectrum. My current DSLR cool box design uses a CLS Clip filter to prevent dust entering the camera and also helps to seal the camera from the outside air along side a very tightly fitted Badder MPCC MKIII, see pictures. The sensor temperatures can hit -10c in the winter so its important to keep the air within the cool box dry. At any rate i digress, my question is, as I have now removed all the camer filters (+ making the sensor all golden and shiny) how do I best prevent reflections. I did wonder if the coatings on the MPCC MKIII would be good enough alone; however, the cooler design really calls for me to make use of a Astronomic Clear Glass Clip Filter or a UV/IR Clip filter. But which one? I also know that I could get a sensor window from Astronomic that sits in place of the anti-dust (IR) filter. However, if I am going to end up using a clear glass clip filter anyway....do I really need another glass element over the sensor. I should probably say that I will be using my 2 inch narrow band filter in this setup, I chose them so that I could use them with a CCD + filter wheel at a later date if I chose to go down that path. So just using the clip narrow band filters is not an option. I guess it comes down to this, are reflections going to be worse if I increase the distance to the first anti-reflection coated optical element buy using the Clear Glass Clip instead of putting the Clear glass directly over the sensor? Thanks. Adam
Hi Guys, Based on experience during last couple of years I rebuilt the cooling in one of my cameras; D5100cam (Cooled astromono). Previously it had all the controls attached into the camera, but I have noticed it's better top have controls further away so I don't need to touch the actual camera and cause any shakes operating it. Main purpose of the camera is to serve as high performance cost effective transition between regular DSRs and cooled astrocameras. Direct TEC cooled mono DSLR with PWM adjustment and true sensor temperature measurement: And how does it work? Here is a dark frame noise analysis chart with sensor temperature in Celsius and noise measured with Pixinsight noise analysis tool:
Hi guys, Managed to get some OIII data to go with my previous Ha of the Rosette nebula, still very short (only 7x900 sec. frames of OIII) but it's strating to look nice, it really brings a new dimension to the image, not too happy with the blue halos though, once I have more OIII data I will reprocess, the weather is looking good today...let's see https://www.flickr.c...eposted-public/ Cheers,