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Found 6 results

  1. Just finished hypermodding my Canon 450D following the instructions from: http://thaiastro.nectec.or.th/hypermod/ and took it one spet forward and chopped off the unnecessary ribbons from the top panel. The poor camera now looks like this: It was a great sense of relief when I connected it to my laptop and it worked! Also finished making the peltier cooler and that lookes like this: I made an attempt to build a box for the two, but failed. Does anyone know of a ready made sealed box that could host the modded camera? I have seen a thread that someone has put the camera in an aluminium electic box, but that's a bit too heavy. I am looking for a clear polystyrene or pvc/plastic box. Appreciate it if someone has similar experience and have found a good box... Clear skies, Naeim
  2. I've modded a few camera now and despite how tricky they can be I've enjoyed the challenge enough to want to take things one step further. I initially decided to buy a cheap camera on ebay to try and have a go at debayering the sensor although after much reading of a certain mammoth thread I've decided this is too many steps forward. Instead I'm looking at cooling the Modded 300D to improve the noise levels on long exposures. I decided on three design objectives for cooling: 1) keep it simple 2) keep the design light and compact 3) Keep the LCD screen for stand alone non PC use With the above steps in mind below is what I've come up with. I used the fantastic Gary Honis camera modding guide for the full spectrum mod. The pics taken below lay out extra steps I've taken to cool the camera. I plan on testing camera noise levels once the cooling system is complete by taking a series of long exposure dark frames before and after cooling. This is a very simple cooling system so I'm not expecting the world but a noticable drop in noise and amp glow over a 5 minute exposure would be a great thing to achieve I think I have now recieved a 350D and if I find that the 300D cooling is successful I will be doing the same to that camera and may also add a temp probe behind the chip to help quantify the coolings effectiveness if any. Anyway here are some pics:
  3. Hi guys, Been in to Astronomy / Astrophotography for a good deal of my life. That said with life generally getting in the way with ups and downs, I now find myself in a position where i can really start to get into Astronomy again. What i was querying is that i have a red dot view finder on my Meade Polaris 130MD, What i was wondering is in the images i have uploaded i have a 20-60x60 spotters scope, Can anybody give me some of your advice and wisdom as to how i could use or if possible utilise it on the ring behind my viewfinder, i ask as i have no battery and like a numpty i left it on to die, Forgot to also mention that i use the scope on a EQ2 mount if that helps, I like to try and get some shots of the moon with my D5300, it does enough for what I'm happy with. Any help and information will be greatly received. Cheers Mark.
  4. Hello everyone! I have recently been thinking about the possibility of having my camera modified for astrophotography, but know very little about the subject, and have a good few questions: How much would I gain from this process? As far as I know, the effects of removing IR-Block filters, considerably improves the imaging of H-Alpha objects, but by how much? Roughly how much would this process cost me? How unusable would the camera then become for terrestrial photography? From what I know, it is bad, but editing can improve the situation. If I decided to get my camera modded, where would be a good place to get it done?I don't know much about it, but from what I have heard, it can very a very useful process. Thanks for your help David
  5. hello all Just taken delivery of my Skywatcher Skyliner 200p on a dobsonian mount. Im actually in the process of assembling it now. Come with me on a journey through space and time ( well time anyway) as I hopefully take the good stuff on this forum and mod the dobs. Got as far as looking at the central bolt . Well that wont do, The bolt measures 8.8mm , the inside diameter of the plastic tube about 9mm and the hole in the board is slightly more than that so when the clearances are combined the assembly rocks like me Dad at a wedding..all over the place! So job 1 fix the bolt to the baseboard
  6. Hi all, I use my Nikon D750 95% of the time for daytime imaging, so far I have done nightscapes of the milky way and recently I bought a Star Adventurer and have been really pleased with the results that I got with my Nikon 180mm f2.8 lens attached. I would also like to attach the camera to larger telescopes that my local Astronomical Society has. I am interested in increasing the Ha sensitivity, however I would like to continue using the camera for daytime imaging, I have read a lot of different posts here and other places and I'm still none the wiser. So far I have gathered that the IR filter is removed which sits in front of the camera's sensor and is replaced with a filter that lets through the Ha wavelength, however a custom white balance is required for daytime use. Does this custom white balance overly matter as it can be altered in Lightroom/Camera Raw? I also read that an external IR filter may need to be fitted to each lens (a bit impractical and is this only when the whole IR filter has been removed from in front of the sensor - full spectrum mod?).
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