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Found 13 results

  1. Hello I have been away from this forum from possibly July - I never find a lot of time to do anything these days, same to be able to relax reading and interacting Astronomy forums. I asked here a few ideas about making a solar scope or modifying whatever I had and I was recommended to also see Solar Chat Forums and I did. Thanks to solarchatforums I have been able to do something decent and here is what I have done so far - very slowly! 1. I purchased a second hand PST and replaced its ITF with Maier one from the US and it finally had a clear image coming through + moved Etalon screw to third position - all the usual thing everybody does [after I researched it]! 2. used a new SCT screw-on short focuser [used once or twice on a LX200 R Classic] and using Teflon tape I screwed the PST Etalon to the focuser and purchased a 2" adaptor to fit on Etalon. 3. then used a Chinese 2" to 1.25 and modified the 2" side socket taking internal ring off and making 3x 120° threaded holes and 3x nylon thumb screws and used that as an adaptor to fit the original PST eyepiece holder - strangely enough at present this adaptor is also used as a tilter ... until I buy a proper camera tilter 4. then fit the above eyepiece holder into the SCT focuser with 2" to 1.252 adaptor in it and screwed the whole Gold PST tube with Etalon in it and made a BETTER PST - see image 5. I also initially tried a 2.2x DSLR camera Lens magnifier in front of PST and it decently works too - so PST will be fine for full solar disk mainly and without the 0.5 angstrom - not forcibly needed, I am probably around 0.7 as it is! 6. more importantly, I decided to make my own 90mm solar scope using the above bits and pieces. 7. with the help of Solar Chat Forums [great guys with a lot of knowledge, some are professional - i.e. they know the optics mathematical details - which helps] I purchased a cheap Bresser AR90/900 8. the ONLY usable thing there ... is the main tube, a nice and thick tube - the rest is ALL plastic!!! I dismounted all parts and saw tube shorter ... a bit too much ! - I could have saved ~6cm really as I went with original ideas, but forgot I was using a different telescope from my initial thoughts - silly me! So, I added a 6cm extension - no problems there to reach the 20cm inward needed for the PST Etalon which has ~20cm FL 9. initially I used a Tuna Fish 100g tin to adapt the SCT focuser onto my AR152 and fit Etalon inside the focuser to get near the 20cm needed- lets call it Quark unit - which it is really! It worked well, so I decided to add a second focuser to tune the Etalon ... getting back to AR90/900 ... 10. I was trying to avoid overspending, I could not afford to spend too much - then I remembered I had a unused AR102SX which in my mind I guessed ... the focuser should over AR90/900 and it did! It just fits perfectly - then drilled three holes for the holding screws et-voila' 11. I purchased a second hand 75mn Baader D-ERF and fit it INSIDE the AR90 tube at about 20cm inside from the front air-spaced doublet lenses, as there are the usual internal rings soldered in and just sit on it and I have about 70mm aperture - i.e 70mm width from the D-ERF for photons to get through. At that ~20cm distance from front lenses the beam is still very large - probably about 60-65mm - there is no heat in between - no need for air-escaping holes 12. when I have the time I will make a solar finder scope and fit it on the tube - not that is really needed - I usually use CDC to get there almost over The Sun [having an almost exact spot on the yard!] - then use my eye without eyepiece and look thourgh the PST eyepiece holder for solar shinging and centre the telescope over The Sun. Well, it works well after tuning Etalon focuser correctly and then focusing/tuning Etalon etc. - the usual. See some images - still learning imaging/processing and a lot more to learn about Solar ... a lot! I will probably need to get a Power-mate 2.5x when I can afford it! 1st mod - without the original black box - it works so much better - better focusing and sharper viewing too. This is the AR90/900 shorten tube with AR102SX focuser and adaptors to test it normally This is complete with the Quark Unit on the right side Since this image there have been some changing - do not use the revelation adaptor any more and added a 6cm 2" extension. Here are some images:
  2. Hi all, I use my Nikon D750 95% of the time for daytime imaging, so far I have done nightscapes of the milky way and recently I bought a Star Adventurer and have been really pleased with the results that I got with my Nikon 180mm f2.8 lens attached. I would also like to attach the camera to larger telescopes that my local Astronomical Society has. I am interested in increasing the Ha sensitivity, however I would like to continue using the camera for daytime imaging, I have read a lot of different posts here and other places and I'm still none the wiser. So far I have gathered that the IR filter is removed which sits in front of the camera's sensor and is replaced with a filter that lets through the Ha wavelength, however a custom white balance is required for daytime use. Does this custom white balance overly matter as it can be altered in Lightroom/Camera Raw? I also read that an external IR filter may need to be fitted to each lens (a bit impractical and is this only when the whole IR filter has been removed from in front of the sensor - full spectrum mod?).
  3. Took the bull by the horns and done the power modification on my Eq6 pro to connect via the 2pin connector , bit nerve racking haven’t really done much soldering before ,managed to do soldering without frying anything, used Blu-tac to isolate surrounding area so I didn’t solder anything I shouldn’t have , mount powered up checked slewing with handset , steady red light voltage reading 14v dropping to 13.9v slewing phew ?
  4. I've just received a 12" Lazy Susan bearing to see if I can ease the Azimuth movement on my 10" SkyWatcher Dob. Before I drilled any holes I thought I'd just put it in between the baseboards to see how it moved with the weight of the scope. Sure, it moves very freely and of course I'd have needed some kind of clutch to stop it flying around in the wind, but when it gets down to really fine movement, the cheep pressed steel bearing really isn't up to the job. I couldn't get the super-fine movement I had with the Teflon pads, it was just a wee bit too jerky. The Teflan pads are not as easy flowing but you get a load of control with Teflon if you apply some carefully applied muscle. That's two dob mods that haven't worked for me so far, caster wheels and now the lazy susan bearing. Next upgrade will definitely be something simple like an eyepiece.
  5. mitchelln

    Telrad base Mod

    From the album: Kit

    Modification to Telrad base to make it fit my 300P.
  6. Hi guys, I'm looking to get a Baader mod to my Canon 6D as I would love to get some nice wide-field landscape images of Orion and the Milky Way etc. Any recommendations for an active service in the UK or nearby? Loads of websites about but not getting much in the way of responses. Thanks in advance.
  7. I'm still undecided which mod to go for. I will only be using the camera with camera lenses and will not be using it for normal as I have another camera for this. Is it worth getting a full spectrum mod if I only intend to do widefield?
  8. I think I first thought about doing a mod late 2012, and... suffice to say I've got distracted and done nothing about it last year. So this year, I will finally get round to the mod! To recap, I have two PSTs, one I'm keeping stock, one I'm modifying. I had all sorts of wacky ideas, but have now decided to go the tradition route and have ordered a TAL 100RS. The only other major component I need then is the D-ERF. I remember it was a common trick to get an under-sized one and insert it into the tube part way down. Here's where I'm getting confused. My previous notes suggest it was a 75mm one, but now I can only see a 70mm one on sale. Next one up is 90mm and also comes with a hefty price lift. Was it actually 75mm or is my memory failing me? I don't think I have much choice other than go for the 70mm.
  9. Having ordered an altitude mod plate from Gunnar, I took the opportunity to do the work today. You can read my write-up at http://darrenjehan.me.uk/blog/skywatcher-eq6-altitude-mod/ Nice and simple and worked a treat. Need a clear night now to re-align and see how it well it works in practice, but have high hopes!
  10. Phew! Finally finished off my az3 mod to add some weight/s to the front end of the scope. Just finished attaching it to the scope, and tested it out with my heaviest load with the 2" diagonal & the Meade 40mm EP which weighs a ton on it own (combined weight just over 1.7kg). Works even at the highest point the scope can go and winds down OK with two weights fitted. When the scope is horizontal the weights are clear of the legs still, so no issues to move it around left or right. For most EPs etc I think just one weight will suffice, but it is easy peasy to add the second one if needed. Now, bring on the clear skies!
  11. Since I will sell my 102 doublet to get an 80 triplet (used as gng too), there will be a time when I will have no scope (the horror ) So I made a small adapter to screw into the 9x50 Skywacher a Baader mk3 Zoom, to have something to play with... The adapter is made of some sort of hard plastic (textolit in my language). it has threads at both ends (different tho) and and internal baffles (not painted yet) It performs quite well. Since a picture is better than a thousand words.. the pictures:
  12. Hi, does anyone still use a classic Canon 5D (first version) ??? I own a few nice and sharp 35mm-format prime lenses that I would love to use in daylight (portraits, buildings, landscape etc) so I thought to get a second hand full frame camera that I might also use for astronomy once or twice a year when the weather man approves it (mainly for wide-fields and some large DSO's) and I found some inexpensive 5D's and I was wondering if anyone is still using them and how do they compare with more modern crop / APS-C cameras. My main camera is a Nikon D7000 (a fantastic camera!), but my old 35mm lenses won't focus to infinity on Nikon unless I use some cr@ppy glass adapter that degrades the image. I also don't like at all that the pictures are cropped and much more narrow and I cannot afford proper wide and fast Nikon lenses for my D7000. So considering that I don't need any AF, Backyard EOS or any fancy digital-era things, that my budget is restricted plus I really need to go on holidays soon (making the budget even smaller) I thought the 5D could be good enough as a first digital full frame camera to play with but I haven't found any convincing information on using it for astronomy and being a pretty old model I'm still not sure if it would be a disappointment, although I see that, for daylight, some experienced photographers obtained great results. Any input will be appreciated! :-)
  13. Hi guys and gals There's been a lot of buying and some modding in the Souith Wales area and I have to admit some of it concerning the flocking of a scope took my interest. I live in a great position for observation but there is the dreaded light pollution to deal with, AND, I have a Heritage 130P which has an 'open structure' Anyway the original scope looks like this I removed the primary mirror and flocked the main tube. With the advantage of having the scope in this state I played with the idea of constructing a black card tube, which would slide into the main tube as the scope was closed down and of course would extend as the scope was opened, it too could be flocked and thereby give me a compact scope that would travel with me and give me a fully flock lined tube too These pics just ilustrate the other positions showing the tube extending etc. I also added a couple of layers of flocking to the end of the new tube extension which remains inside the main tube, this acts as a light trap and may eventually allow its use for solar, but I need to take care with this aspect In any event it will give me a higher contrast telescope for night observation and help with the light pollution Gordon
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