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Found 7 results

  1. Quick view of the moon at 7am this morning, as it’s been too cloudy since my 150p arrived earlier this week. Getting happier with my setup now, more of what I envisaged a few months ago when I purchased the mount & Mak. There is quite a lot of overlap with the two scopes, but using the Mak a lot for Bino viewing & enjoying it. A few bits of tweaking with the 150p ( flocking, RACI, RDF, motor focuser & cooling fan) over the coming months are planned. Looking forward to the darker nights, but not the cold
  2. Hello everyone, I've got a question. I want to upgrade the visual back on the Mak 127. The standard back on the Mak is not pleasant to work with as seen in the image. I need to get rid of this plastic thing. I purchased a mak to sct adapter when I bought the scope, I never got around to doing anything until now as I've just acquired a Baader 2.25x barlow as shown in the image. Now, I've had a go of attaching the the Baader Barlow into the original plastic thing on the mak, it works .... but I'm not happy with the connection being made with the two locking screws, as there is still movement when the barlow, t-ring and Canon DSLR are all in the train. I've been having a look on FLO for some work around, does anyone have some input as to whether this will work. Mak to sct adapter-> Baader 2 inch to 1.25 reducer adapter->Baader 2.25x barlow + T ring & DSLR https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/baader-2-to-125-reducer-adapter.html https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/BaaderT2ext-1508153.html Any input or a better way of securing everything is greatly appreciated! Another option I've come across is this , Baader ClickLock 2"-1.25" Adapter and Baader T2 Extension Tube to bring it to 40mm when attached to the mak to sct adapter. Anyone have any experience with this?
  3. Hi All, I hope you are well. Since I have downgraded motor and hand controller firmware I haven't seen the error message below. Both Axes...No Response! however I do experience something else: During the Initialization (if it takes longer than usually) it throws this error message: No link to mount. Stand alone mode. And this is happening quite often, 1/3 of times I initialize my MAK. Also the hand controller is hanging during operation. 1. The lights are lit but the keys stop responding and I have to power cycle the whole think again. 2. while slewing in one direction it can hang and continue slewing even if I release the button Hand Controller firmware ver. 03.36 Database 3.28 Motor firmware ver. 02.08.95 So far my conclusion is that there must be something wrong with the wiring or there is insufficient Amps according to what people say here and there. The thing is that I was always using these 8x Duracell rechargeable batteries since the beginning and I wasn't experiencing this erratic behavior. Please advise.
  4. tekkydave

    IMG 0072 1 800x800

    From the album: Lunar

    Moon 18/11/2013 via Canon EOS 1100D and Celestron 127SLT
  5. Hi guys. Recently I had the opportunity to restart my hobby with a short astro-imaging test run in the back yard - a nice quiet little playground actually, near the place where I live. My setup consists of an eq mount (AVX), a dslr (EOS 550D), and either a classical M42 manual focus photo lens (anywhere from a Takumar 35 to a Tair3S 300mm, sometimes aided by a 1.5x or a 2x TC), or an ED refractor (C80) most of the time reduced with a 0.8x FF/FR. Since the area where my observing spot is falls within a +5 NELM around Zenith, I always use a LP filter (IDAS LPS P2 2", or Optolong CLS 1.25") for better results. Unfortunately my mount isn't PEC'ed yet, but I'm quite confident that i'll soon be able to achieve this goal, as it is rather imperative if I am to get any useful >120s subs. Guiding is not my main objective, as I do not have all the possibilities to do that - technically, logistically, financially... etc. A couple of nights ago I went for a test run with a rather unconventional "weapon" - the SW 127 MC. Yes, that's right, a Mak for DSO. Now, I know some of you have already played with this kind of instrument before, and had some pretty decent results. I also know that many imagers with higher standards have the habit to blame this little scope for its limitations. But who cares.. It's all about experimenting and having some late night fun. I used mine with a 0.63x FR, set at 0.73x due to the actual chip-to-lens distance I got, which brings down the focal ration from an infamous 11.8 to a more usable 8.6, which is quite doable exposure-wise, but a little inconvenient when it comes to star shape and vignetting (although the latter can be dealt with by means of flat frames). With a MC-SCT thread adapter and a custom made rotatable SCT-2"-M42 adapter, I could use both the Celestron reducer and the 2" LP filter with the dslr on the Mak127, for a couple of dozens 50/50 hit rate 30s subs for each object, along with a set of correction frames (darks, flats, bias). I really hope next time, with PEC, the hit rate (percentage of usable subs with round stars) will increase, and subs will be longer, so I can take better images. Until then, this is what I managed to get. Processing is done in a "keep-it-simple-son" manner: DSS & PS CS5. I didn't bother shooting RAW, although I am aware of the limitation of using JPG correction frames. Maybe next time Clear skies, everyone!
  6. Hi, I bought this T-Ring from e-bay for $18, and it had good reviews, people saying they just used it without an extension etc. But I'm having trouble working it out. It fits great to the camera, but when I try to put it on the back of the scope its nowhere near fitting. Obviously, I am new to this. The diameter of the hole scope side is 1 and 5/8"s or around 43 mm. What am I missing? Here's a pic of the t-ring and the description on the packet. Many thanks!
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