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Found 6 results

  1. Hello everyone, I've got a question. I want to upgrade the visual back on the Mak 127. The standard back on the Mak is not pleasant to work with as seen in the image. I need to get rid of this plastic thing. I purchased a mak to sct adapter when I bought the scope, I never got around to doing anything until now as I've just acquired a Baader 2.25x barlow as shown in the image. Now, I've had a go of attaching the the Baader Barlow into the original plastic thing on the mak, it works .... but I'm not happy with the connection being made with the two locking screws, as there is still movement when the barlow, t-ring and Canon DSLR are all in the train. I've been having a look on FLO for some work around, does anyone have some input as to whether this will work. Mak to sct adapter-> Baader 2 inch to 1.25 reducer adapter->Baader 2.25x barlow + T ring & DSLR https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/baader-2-to-125-reducer-adapter.html https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/BaaderT2ext-1508153.html Any input or a better way of securing everything is greatly appreciated! Another option I've come across is this , Baader ClickLock 2"-1.25" Adapter and Baader T2 Extension Tube to bring it to 40mm when attached to the mak to sct adapter. Anyone have any experience with this?
  2. From the album: Planetry

    Both taken on the same morning from my hotel balcony in Fuerteventura April 2019. Using a star adventurer a Skywatcher 127 Mak, 2x barlow and 4k video on an EOS M50
  3. I bought my Mak127 and eq3 in April. Due to the light summer nights, working shifts etc, it was only the other night I used it properly since I got it. This is how it went. I set it up, levelling it first, pointing it north, its on the correct latitude, and I have a gps on my mount. Looked through the mounts ocular to check I was on the Polaris...off by a small bit so just tweaked the tripod to the left a little till it was in the crosshairs. Then setup on the handset. I did the two star alignment and all seemed good. After looking around and getting used to the handset, I noticed that objects were not in the centre anymore, yet they were bang on in the finder scope. Any ideas? Also I thought images in a MAK were the correct way up? But there weren't. Maybe I'm wrong but I'm sure that's what I was told. But regardless, got to see a double star, the Ring Nebula and a few other bits n bobs. Not bad considering it was quite light polluted and to find stuff of interest in the part of the sky that was darkest, I used my iPhone app which totally ruined my vision. Can't wait till next time
  4. Hi All, As some of you may have read recently, (http://stargazerslou...00-and-mak-127/) I have been gradually working on improving my planetary imaging. Although this is nowhere near the standard of the incredible pictures we've seen on here recently, I'm happy that this is a definite step forwards for me, coming mainly from learning a few key lessons (read: making stupid mistakes ) everytime I go out. 2 minutes of capture using Sharpcap, run (a little heavily I think) through Registax. Great Red Spot and Io's shadown visible, though Io itself very feint. I have a couple of four minute captures in the bank too, so I look forward to seeing how they come out, I'm in the wilds of north Cornwall next week and desperate for one clear night, so I can get a comparison against this, taken just outside of Leeds city centre. If the weather is bad, I'll use the time to learn more about Registax - it's still mostly guess work at the moment. Usual kit, Mak 127, SPC900 and standard 2x barlow. New dew shield helped a lot on this one, the extra time outside gave me more time to experiment with the settings in Sharpcap. Jupiter 09.10.12.bmp
  5. Hi All, Thought I'd share my first two attempts at Jupiter using the SPC900 (with Mak 127), taken in the early hours of Friday morning. I am really quite proud of these, and if you want to know why, please click your way through my Jupiter journey, as by way of comparison, I've also attached my previous two best attempts, taken when Jupiter was at it's brightest some time back, using the good old "point a camera down the eyepiece" method. Any newbies out there wondering how to take better photos of planets, my advice would be simple - webcams are the way forwards! Thanks to all those on here who I've bugged for advice and tips. Without the help from SGL, I'd still be wondering why it looked like I'd taken a photo of a lightbulb in a dark room, and wondering how to improve! So, the old, taken over a year ago: And the new, about 50 seconds worth of AVI captured with Sharpcap (can't wait to see what difference is made by boosting that to several minutes of footage) stacked in Registax. Any advice on how to improve would be very gratefully received. Cheers, Derek
  6. Hi everyone, These are hardly comparable with some of the incredible Saturn pics we've seen on here over the last few days, but thought I'd show what I managed to get out of the set up mentioned in the title, and a standard kit 2x barlow back at the start of April. No real beauties yet with the 3x barlow, it's so dim the only way to get a reasonable image is to slam all the camera settings up so far that registax can't make out the planet from the noise! That barlow did only cost a tenner though, so I guess I shouldn't expect miracles! 5 min avi, captured through Sharpcap and run through Registax. I'm working on learning to use other software, but until I can be sure I'm getting better results from that, I'll still with what I know! Tons of room for improvement on the processing, and although a part of me wants to rush out and upgrade my kit, there's a part of me that says "hey, you see that little dot in the sky up there, I took a picture of that with some pretty basic kit from my back garden and it came out like this!" Curious to know how long other people are running their captures for on Saturn - it seems to me there's less surface detail to suffer from rotational blur as there is on Jupiter, so I'm wondering whether there'd be any gain from running a 10 - 15 minute capture to maximise frames, so that you can be really picky about stacking only the best? As always, any advice welcomed. D.
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