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Having just received my new mount capable of holding my RASA I am now in need of a flat field panel large enough to cover the scope's aperture. Having looked at astro flat field panels I came to the conclusion that paying around £200 for one is a bit steep and I'd rather use that to buy me an LRGB filter set. So I scoured the net for cheaper alternatives, there's the bare EL panels but for the dimensions I'd need prices are in the range of £60, not exactly cheap for what it is. Then I found and ordered this http://www.beamled.com/biard-10w-panel-light-300-x-300mm-led.html It's a 295mm x 295mm LED ceiling panel which I think has an incorporated diffuser sheet as the light is very uniform. Comes with an LED driver and was only £13. I got the cool white version. Some pictures of it The waves seen in the images are a result of the camera's shutter I believe and are not visible in real life The active area of the panel is only 250mm x 250mm so a bit small for the RASA's 279mm clear aperture so I'll have to figure out a way to cover that entirely. I'm thinking of placing some sort of semi-transparent sheet 50mm in front of the panel and that should in theory expand the beam of light enough so that it would cover the scope. The panel has a 120 degree beam angle so I think this should work. Also it's VERY bright at 800-1600 lumens so that provides some flexibility in choosing what material goes in front of it. Has anyone attempted this before? Any ideas for what I could place in front of it?
.....So were the council, replacing the low-pressure sodium with these Ignore the foreground lamp, it's been there a couple of years. When it got dark I got Not as bright as it looks, the houses look a lot darker than they were. When I get to work I'll have a look through my old photos for some pre LED shots.
I'm looking for a flat field generator for my SCT 10". There seem to be plenty of options around £200 but wondering if anyone had a try at simple office flat panels like these: https://trade.ledhut.co.uk/commercial-led-lighting/led-panel-lights/20-watt-led-panel-light-295x295mm-ip40.html which come at a fraction of the cost. Thoughts?
Been waiting for days in anticipation for the first clear night with my new SW 200P reflector and HEQ5 mount. I found instantly that I couldn't locate the North Star due to bloody trees and also the moon was so bright it made all other objects so much more dim in my scope. The Polaris Alignment scope LED's are so bright I couldn't align any star in the scope at all, let alone see through it. I did check it was clear and it didn't have the cap on or the weight bar obstructing it. I tried adjusting the brightness but found no settings in the SynScan handset for my model! I also found out that my clock ring rotates even if I lock them to the specific axis. (Annoying) In the end, instead of just messing around trying to align the damn thing I just span it around and zeroed in on the moon and other stars. I found pretty quickly that I can only focus on the moon IF I use a 2X barlow lense in the chain and that the focuser doesn't move back as far as my older Vixen refractor. Anywayyyy to make the most out of the full moon and the fact it was clear I took some photos and made a mosaic out of 54 individual photo's I took. The original photo is 388MB, so I've uploaded a much smaller version. My first proper AstroPhotography photo, any thoughts or solutions to the problems I found on my first night out? I'm hoping the next time I go out, it's much smoother. Enjoy. - Pesky
Dear Stargazers Community, Due to a series of unfortunate circumstances, my HEQ5 was stuck in a wet/damp garage for a lengthy period. Today I was able to salvage it. Initially I had some issues getting the motors going, but I was able to do it - despite the mount being very wet - with water actually in the power port. After a while it stopped tracking, and emitted a constant whine. I noticed the Syntrek handset was flashing - ALL keys. Nothing I pressed did anything. The LED on the actual mount was consistent. After a series of removing and reinserting the power/handset I was able to get it working again. Shortly after it failed again. This time I could not get it to work. I brought the head inside and dismantled it to see inside. The compartment with the board in looked dry, so I removed the front port panel and checked there. A small amount of water, which I dried. I put the whole thing back together to no effect. I left it for about 5 minutes, then retried and now it works again. I've just left it on and tracking now. Since I don't seem to be able to find anything online about flashing LEDs on the handset, I have not been able to confirm what the problem actually is (although it does sound water damage likely). Anyone familiar with this, heard from someone else, or just any tips about keeping it running? I'm worried it might just give up completely. It is possible to replace the board in this situation, and if so, how much do they cost? Thanks for reading.