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Found 7 results

  1. I joined the forum to learn more about risks and success of filter removal for UV and IR photography. Back in 2011, one of the group's members, was trying to do just that: Unfortunately Stephen hasn't been active in the group since 2014, but the filter removal appears to have gone well (at least the S3 wasn't killed in the process). I have the same exact camera and I'm looking forward to try the same exact procedure. Does anyone has any tips on how to do this successfully/safely?
  2. todd8137

    Lunar

    Hi all was out last night the 9th and was just viewing around 21:30 seeing was brill so a bit of moon as Jupiter was bounce ing all over the place try in to get focus with the rgb was terrible , That said I pointed at the moon ,and the boil was evident and I ran a few test vids could not get tight focus Here's the kit C9.25" sct Dmk 21 mono Ir 740mn pass filter Cgem on pier 30fps Average 1200 frames best 90% stacked
  3. I've always wanted to do this modification. But now winter is upon us and the fun stuff is coming out so I finally decided to give it a serious attempt. I picked up a faulty 350D on eBay for £15, tested it and found that the fault was nothing more than a dud battery. I ripped it apart and carefully dismantled the sensor. The coverglass came off very easily with a razor blade. Things were going well until without thinking I went to wipe some of the dust off the surface and hit a gold wire. Ok, so I gritted my teeth, picked up another sensor on eBay for £20...Only this time I cut the razer in half and stuck the two sides down so they covered the amazingly delicate gold wires. Absolutely no problems from then on out. I practised various techniques on the broken sensor and found the wooden tool I made worked best. I used the handle of an old brush and carved it down to a sharp flat blade about 3-4mm across. It took about an hour to completely remove the material. Right now I have the camera in a semi-assembled state for testing. I've taken a few test shots, but without a CF card right now I cannot upload them just yet (That's another eBay order on the way). There is a very thin line of colour on the top and bottom of the images as the razer guides overlapped a bit preventing the removal of a mm or so of the matrix. I don't mind that at all. I can see though I have a bit of cleaning work to do in some places so I'm about to start work on a dustproof glovebox for a second disassembly and cleaning. It's a lot of work but I'm having so much fun.
  4. I thought I'd post my image from last month, since we don't see these posted often. So, I shot through a Venus U filter, an Orion Imaging and a 640nm IR-pass, assigning them to B,G,R respectively (and boosting saturation to great levels as the moon is very reflective on all those frequencies). Each of those images was actually a mosaic of 3 subframes made by processing videos shot with an ASI290MM. I used my least sharp OTA, the 130PDS, since I wanted to avoid lenses/correctors for the UV filter. Before I got the mono camera, I had tried one with my color Altair IMX224, but as it is much less sensitive to UV, the UV image was closer to the visible (and noisier), so there was some "extra" curve manipulation (the above is pretty much extreme contrast boost instead) which I would call "cheating", but you can also call "artistic": Same technique otherwise, although the smaller sensor required 4 frames to capture the whole moon. I documented my processing in a blog post if you are curious.
  5. With my recently modded Logitech quickcam pro, i had found the built in IR filter from the automatic focuser, Unfortunatly when removing it it sustained a few tiny scratches and one very big one. now the big one is located on the far right of the view, and messes up about 1/8th of the image since i have not yet had clear skies to be able to test to see if it will affect astro imaging i reach out to yall is this going to be an issue at all? will zooming in with sharpcap cut out the affected area? Or do i need to find and inexpensive IR filter and mod it into the camera? i will atach an image it ook with the irfilter in place with the scratches visable for referance, the image was not zoomed or cropped and help would be greatly apreciated thank you
  6. For sale 1000D camera modified for astronomy, the IR filter has been removed to allow the important red emission nebula to come through. This camera has a very low shutter count of 4654 (at this time), and is in very good condition but has a light surface scratch on the LCD (see pic), which doesnt impact its performance and isnt visable when on. comes with a battery and charger, I don't have the original box, but will pack, very well. The price is £130 and includes delivery. This is for the camera body, no lens. Any questions please email me for guaranteed response........clear skys!
  7. A big thank you to everyone who commented on my Onion ringing problem because its now solved , great! I think the decisive fact was the Gamma needed to be at 100 or greater. At approximately 02:30 I managed to get this set of Jupiter images using the modified Mewlon M250S (CR Baffle added) and the DMK21 with the correct settings!!! They are only mono, taken using and IR-Pass filter; one day I will invest in a manual filter wheel and the necessary RGB filters but for now I'm very happy with the results. Still need some advise; As anyone used Metaguide? I'm trying to use this for collimation of the scope? I have read the manual and I think collimation is bang-on but want to push to get that last bit of perfection!!! Problem was that the "red dot" was moving around too much. Very close to the centre of the star and not too far away but perhaps I could have got a better result with a better technique??? Anyway, I hope that you like the images Most probably seeing conditions were the limiting factor
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