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Found 15 results

  1. Recently got a Baader sky surfer iii RDF along with a quick release finder shoe to replace the flimsy plastic 6x30 stock finder on my Bresser AR102xs. The problem is the adjustment of the red dot is very limited. The red dot can only be moved within the lower left quarter of the full circle before neither of the control knobs can be turned any further. As a result I haven't been able to get it aligned with the scope. I thought Baader made good quality accessories (the quick release finder shoe is very well engineered), but it looks like either I've got a dud or the unit is not well designed. Is the Altair starwave all metal RDF any good? Or can anyone recommend an alternative model?
  2. Since upgrading mount and guidescope I have some items that are no longer required. EQ5 mount AstroEQ controller plus 2 Nema17 motors with homemade brackets, pulleys and belts and RJ11 cords £80 delivered Skywatcher 9*50 Finderscope £30 delivered - sold Orion Dual Finder Scope Mounting Bracket £20 delivered -sold Bank transfer preferred.
  3. Hi, I bought a OVL dual speed crayford focuser for my Skywatcher ED100 , the problem is that the OVL crayford does not have the bracket for the standard skywatcher finderscope that the original focuser did. Sorry if this is a stupid question but Is there a way to mount this on my scope without having to drill into the tube? Thanks
  4. When I got my new telescope I decided to get a Telrad as well (after reading lots of good reviews about it) and it really is a sweet piece of equipment. Easy to align, easy to use and so on. However I didn't get along with the 6x30 finderscope that came with the OTA. It just made me dizzy looking through it so I thought a RACI would be better. Actually I ended up removing the finder mounting shoe to get a better placement for the Telrad (only mounted with zip ties at the moment). But, now a question popped into my noobish little head and of course I just have to ask. Does anyone use the Telrad, or Rigel for that matter, as your only finder? Or am I better off with a finderscope as well, RACI in that case I think?
  5. hello! yesterday i got my telescope, BRESSER solarix 76/350! so yesterday i went outside around 9pm, I spotted Mars in the night sky very easily, I tried to aim my telescope towards it but... after like 10minutes, I still couldn't aim it ( I did choosed the ocular that had 40mm, biggest one I have ), then I gave up and decided to observe the core of the Andromeda Galaxy because it's way easier to aim at because of it's huge size.. Then huge clouds were coming and I decided to go back home with my telescope.. I did some research and there is a tool named "finderscope", but the problem is that my telescope doesnt have a rail or something that I can put a finderscope to, and im just asking if there is like a univseral finderscope or a finderscope that doesnt require to drill holes for screws, the only thing I observed yesterday was the sun( with my sun filter, I was pretty satisfied for a first time ) and the faint core of the Andromeda Galaxy/m31.. thanks for helping me!
  6. Hi All, and especially anyone who reads a newbies 1st post. I have inherited a much abused telescope, that I have identified as a 1985 TAL1. I have used this over the years and know it produces great images. It has the original x3 Barlow and a 15mm EP, but no 25mm. After living outside in a box it is filthy inside and out (no tube cap so it is full of spiders, their victims and dust). I have found Astro Babys' guide to renovating the TAL1 however there is one fly in the ointment. One of the finderscope bracket rings is long since broken and the fragment missing (see photo). I am aware that the finderscope is pretty good so am keen to keep that. Before I try to cobble up a wooden or plastic pipe fix is there a replacement bracket option? .....and as a supplementary question is it worth getting a 25mm and a 10mm EP and what would folks recommend? Thanks in advance, Phil
  7. Howdy folks. I was hoping you could all help me find something online. I am having trouble finding a Canadian store that sells skywatcher right-angle finders. The typical stores only seem to have the straight-through versions(which is whats already on my scope). Hope your "Google-Fu" is stronger than mine. Jon
  8. Orion (USA) 9x50 finderscope complete with quick release dovetail base. Purchased for second scope project which I didn`t complete, so the finderscope has seen very little use. Good quality finder with coated objective lens and superimposed cross hairs, 5.5 degree field of view. There is a little bit of dust evident but no scratches or greasy fingerprints. Alignment is done by two nylon screws against a spring loaded pin. The finder keeps its centre very well, even if it is reguarly removed and replaced from the dovetail base. £45 inc P+P (signed for 1st class UK mainkand) or £40 collect. (Hornchurch, Essex/London) Cheque, Paypal, bank transfer
  9. Hi all, Bit of background info first. Having problems auto aligning my Meade 8" LX90GPS. Works at home Liverpool, but not at my site in Hadnall. Doesn't do LNT, not level and never finds north, just spins around like a dalek! Thought LNT module was duff or damaged in transport. Tried everything, then noticed my phone was off north too, tried two other phones, none of the three ever showed same north at same time, even after calibration. Then to my amazement one of the phones suddenly flashed up High Magnetic Anomalies. Moved 20 metres away and ok. So upshot is that under the ground below where I can view from is either a metal dump or electric cables or some other magnetic force. Can't dig it up, decked over. Can't move further away it's beyond my fence line!!!!! So now to finders.. Can't get on with the red dot LNT module for alignment, too flimsy and to big a dot and useless for auto align as above. So want a decent optical finder, to sight and alugn manually so criteria are About £100 all in. Not straight through back can't contort any more.... So need RA but is RACI really better than just RA for the extra cost. 6x30 is it too small mag, maybe 8x50, 9x50 or look for used 10x60 or is that too big. Any ideas or what else do I need to consider, some say EPs are fixed, is this ok or not. Looked at DIY, but the mounts are soooooo... expensive too. Hope this makes sense and look forward to your help.
  10. Don't blame me for the silly pun, Tele Vue actually used it in their ads back in the days when they were written on paper. Now that you are enlightened by this piece of trivia in the history of advertising, here's the topic. My urban observing spots are surrounded by public lamps so I need complete blackening in my finders as well as my scopes, or arcs of light and various shapeless flares will show when I don't aim high. Little stars in a 30mm scope can't compete, star-hopping is made difficult. This is how I do the blackening. I start with the amici prism. Cleaning it with alcohol proved necessary, some grease was on the exposed faces. Next I paint the rough surfaces with a sharpie. And the rough edges, too. When all non-polished places are black, funny, it's actually possible to make the prism look all black from a certain angle. Then its housing was not cleanly put out of its mold. I don't like finding uneven stuff, so I rectified it even it if was not important for the finder's function. 40-grit did the job in a couple minutes. The plate side is rough from the 40-grit paper but is now planed, the plate will screw onto it without leaving gaps. From its usable angles the prism now looks like that: a clear window with black sides that will absorb stray light. Larger amici prisms for full-size scopes might require the same treatment; practicing on cheaper stuff makes it less intimidating. The housing is garnished with blackboard paint. See how the inside and the barrel are darker than the surface with the screw holes. This paint is water-based, doesn't smell, dries in minutes, and can be removed from places it covers by accident, just scrape it and rub with a wet towel, not a trace will remain. But it sticks hard enough to not chip over time. Have you seen you school's blackboard chip? The sharpie also cures the objective lenses' rough edges disease. Another funny effect, when the side is barely half-blackened, the untreated edge already looks gray, as if black could reflect on other things; this is promising for the final effect! The promise is kept! In main scopes or finders, this black ring will kill off nearly all the light that touches it, I can guarantee it from experience! The dewshield (made in the proper length by Sky-Watcher, by the way, congrats!) is also painted. See how the bare anodized aluminum ring at the rear is shiny. I don't paint that area or the doublet won't enter. Its own layer of sharpie paint plus the blackboard paint would be too much. Where are all those white dust specks coming from? The retaining ring is a treacherous spot in telescopes because the total area is large even if the thing is narrow, can't leave it shiny, especially at those grazing angles! See the difference with the threaded outside of it. Not an essential job in a finder but done it a minute, so why not? The eyepiece lenses were white on the side, too, Before the sharpie touch, the objective was that white and bright, but you'd be surprised how quickly the non-yet-painted part turns dark gray when you start painting the rest. The inside of these retaining rings will receive the blackboard touch. Now that's how things should look! Both the lenses and their bevels are coated in black. The bevels seem a bit shiny from this angle but their absorption of bad light is vastly better. The eyepiece is a simple Plössl, only two cemented doublets with rounder bellies facing each other, mounting them right is foolproof, unlike other optical designs. You can improve the contrast in unexpensive and simple eyepieces with a good blackening. Costs nothing, proportionate to the thing's price. The eyepiece is fully-multi-coated, by the way, more congrats to Sky-Watcher for taking accessories seriously. Another improvement: the tiny original screws are replaced by homemade larger screws. Those white plugs are used in the assembly of furniture, but only one tool store had them, and only once. I bought the two packs they had, can't find them anymore, anonymous packaging. They include a piece of threaded 6mm rod of the right length, just had to plane the tip. I superglue a stainless washer at the top, and fill the space with O-rings. Only those at the outside need to be glued, the others are pinched between them. Just seeing the screws makes the advantages obvious, compare with the two original plastic screws. Hard to grab with gloves, or even without gloves for that matter. Now the flocking. The foam side of adhesive velcro is ideal for small areas. I don't glue it to the tube because that would make replacement messy. Instead, I glue it on a strip of paper. Then I fold it into a loop, and tape it. It's not round now but it will when it's forced inside the tube. That might be a useful trick when flocking larger tubes; glueing directly onto the tube allows no mistake, and can force you to leave a poorly applied flocking if it sticks too hard. Can't remove that thing but I need to adjust it! GRRRRR!! The finder is so short, only two rings did the job. Do not put that too close to the objective or it will enter the light cone. So, a few millimeters are not flocked but that's okay because the tube was already painted flat black, and all the rest of the finder is treated. Sky-Watcher put a sensible baffle in the back. There, the light cone is not eaten up by the foam, we have a clear view of the optics' edges from objective to eyepiece. The criteria are the same for bigger refractors. Before any flocking and blackening was done, the inside of the eyepiece was that shiny, the reflection on the side is very bright! Pic taken through the completely assembled finder. It was very tough getting a pic at the same angle, the flat camera objective is hard to position as accurately as the eye with its round cornea, but it's clear the lateral reflections are much dimmer. Again, picture taken through the complete finder even if it might look like the eyepiece was removed from the tube. Before the black-ops job. After the ninjas came. Sorry if the shot is blurry but the brightness comparison still stands. The area around the pupil is darker, and even the inside of the eyecup is darker since I applied a little blackboard paint there, too. It's shiny on the top picture but matte here. And if the difference does not impress you, see how the tests shots were made: with this setup, flashlight at an angle, and only one inch from the dewshield. Note how a few extra O-rings between the objective cell and the finder bracket keep it from playing. Another set of O-rings between the prism housing and the bracket complete the task. Finders moving fore and aft, and allowed to rotate lose alignment. Thanks to the firm push of these rubber rings, the tube is held tight but free to be adjusted. I had to buy a few O-rings for something non-astro, but of course you have to take the whole box. Not liking to leave tools unused, I looked for ways to make these rings profitable. One of the useful tasks was as loosened screw safety. This finder won't fall off to the ground. She's not missing anymore.
  11. I was thinking that it would be useful to have a higher powered finderscope for use with my C8 (or the 127mm Mak) when attempting planetary imaging. The situation is that should the planet wander off the sensor and disappear from the laptop screen, I have to take the camera off and drop in an eyepiece to find the planet and get it back. One answer I suppose is that with a different mount the image might not wander off in the first place. The Mak is fitted with a standard 6x30 finder which is some help, but the C8 only has a red dot finder. I was thinking of fitting something on the C8, but by the time I have acquired a scope, guidescope rings, ADM clamps, etc it could be looking rather expensive, so I thought I might ask here how other people manage. I would prefer that the finderscope be quickly detachable so that I can take it off when visual observing. (The C8 has a Starsense so I don't normally need a finder at all).
  12. Hello, I just purchased a Bushnell Voyager (the one that looks like the old Astroscan) It is in pretty much perfect condition. The seller said that looking thru it was worse than just looking up. That was because the eyepiece was a Plossl 4mm. I (shame on me) gave him the $30.00 and said that I'd give it a try. Using my Orion 20mm eyepiece, the supermoon was fantastic!! My question is do you think that I can improve its use by adding a right angle finderscope, and if so, any advise on one to get. On a budget, sooo, cheaper the better, but not that cheap. Thanks, Rich in El Paso where we have beautiful night skys unless you want to take out your scope
  13. Well, gone and notched up another cloud penalty by just ordering a new finderscope. In this case the Celstron StarPointer Pro. Only £27 from eBay, so not breaking the bank. Looked at a Telrad or a Rigel finderscope, but the Telrad has too big a footprint to fit on my current set up, and for some reason I didn't like the look of the Rigel, so went for this one instead. Projects two red circles on to the 40mm reticule, so will help to star hop too when judging the distance in degrees etc. To work in conjunction with my current 6x30 right angled finderscope on my ST120 frac, so looking forward to using it, when the cloud penalty for ordering extra Astro equipment is up of course!
  14. I'm on the lookout for a RACI finderscope which doesn't have the standard holdings you get with most standard finderscopes (what I got with my SW 200P). I'm specifically after one which is held by rings as that gives me much finer control. 50mm would be ideal as anything above may just be added weight on my mount. Here is an example of something i'm looking for or even the perfect thing I am looking for: What I'm not looking for: Cheers!
  15. I have decided to buy a red-dot finder when I was finally fed up with not knowing which star the telescope is actually point at, due to my right-angled optical finder scope. Most of you probably know how confusing a view through a finder scope can be, especially when you are pointing at a rich star field with most bright stars being roughly the same brightness. This becomes an issue when you want to starhop to your destination and you choose fairly dim star as your starting point. This is no big issue with a simple straight-through optical finder, because you can align the star to a centre of a cross with both eyes open. However, this becomes a problem with right angled finder scope, due to the reasons I mentioned earlier. So, to get the initial star hopping alignment more easily, I decided to get myself something that would help me with that. Since using two optical finders seems idiotic, I thought that some kind of projection finder scope would be in order; two options came to mind – either getting a Telrad or Rigel finders, or getting a simple, though much cheaper, red-dot finder. Since I just wanted a simple solution, red-dot finder it was. I have chosen the Baader Sky Surfer III finder, primarily due to its ability to regulate the brightness of the projected red spot, which seemed handy. When I finally got it, it has occurred to me that there might be a problem – I wanted to use the red-dot finder the same way I use my optical finder, and that is, removable with a simple turn of a screw (no literary pun intended). However, although the body of the finder could be mounted to a plastic mount with a typical Synta mounting end, there was no mounting shoe supplied with it, and since I wanted to use both red-dot and optical finder at the same time, I had to purchase a mounting shoe separately. Other mounting options were pretty much permanent ones, which is not really practical when you regularly transport your telescope. When I got the red-dot finder finally set up on my telescope, I have noticed that the projected red-dot is not working perfectly when turning around the brightness adjusting on/off button. It was regularly working, and then not working. Even though I changed the battery, the problem persisted, so I was frustrated and ready to send the finder back to the supplier. And then I though, since it had cost me only the equivalent of some £9, I just thought „to hell with it“, and decided to try and fix the problem myself. As it eventually turned out, one of the cables inside the electronics was faulty, so after replacing it, the finder scope finally worked as it should have, although it did not give me any confidence in this finder’s build quality. Furthermore, there are no dustcovers for the finder, which means that you will occasionally have to remove the dust from the projection lens mechanically, or, as I did, make some dustcovers on your own. After you finally get the red-dot set up and working, you should align it with your scope during the day, because, the adjusting screws for both axes work a bit awkwardly. You have to combine adjusting with your thumb with a screwdriver, which seems complicated enough, and now try to do that at night. Luckily, once you align it, it stays aligned quite well, and some occasional deviation from the alignment is no biggie, since the finder scope does not magnify, and is basically for rough alignment. So, setting it up, getting it to work and aligning are quite complicated processes, but once done, you are ready to go and basically no additional tweaks are needed. I like the way the red-dot finder is easy to use – you just turn it on, align the projected dot with what you want, and turn it off again. Nice and easy. The combination of a red-dot finder and an optical finder is unstoppable, and using the two in tandem allowed me to find objects that were too complicated or confusing to find using the starhopping method. Upsides Simple to use, intuitive Great in combination with an optical finder Adjustable brightness of the projection dot Battery life Range of mounting options Very cheap Better than those plastic 30mm optical finders Downsides Poor build quality Difficult to align Difficult to set up The plastic mount flexes a bit No dust covers Projected dot poorly visible in daylight
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