Jump to content

Stargazers Lounge Uses Cookies

Like most websites, SGL uses cookies in order to deliver a secure, personalised service, to provide social media functions and to analyse our traffic. Continued use of SGL indicates your acceptance of our cookie policy.

sgl_2019_sp_banner.thumb.jpg.a0ff260c05b90dead5c594e9b4ee9fd0.jpg

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'ed80'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Welcome
    • Welcome
  • Beginners
    • Getting Started General Help and Advice
    • Getting Started Equipment Help and Advice
    • Getting Started With Observing
    • Getting Started With Imaging
  • Community
    • Official SGL Announcements and Events
    • SGL Challenges and Competitions
    • SGL Star Parties
    • Star Parties & Astro Events
    • Celestial Events Heads Up
    • The Astro Lounge
  • Retailers
    • Sponsor Announcements and Offers
    • FLO Clearance Offers
    • Supplier Reviews
  • Astro Classifieds
    • For Sale / Swap
    • Wanted
  • Equipment
  • Observing
  • EEVA (Electronically Enhanced Visual Astronomy)
  • Imaging
  • Science
  • WADAS's WADAS Discussion Forum
  • Beaufort Club's Topics
  • Swindon Stargazers Club's Topics
  • East Midlands Stargazers''s Topics
  • Central Scotland Astro's Topics
  • SGL Cumbrian Skies's Topics
  • Herts, Beds and Bucks Group's Topics
  • SGL East Anglian Group's Topics
  • South Leicester Observers's Topics
  • South Wales Group's Topics
  • SGL Surrey Observers's Topics
  • South Yorkshire Stargazers's Topics
  • Yorkshire Astronomers's Topics
  • Devon and Cornwall's Topics
  • West Midlands's Topics
  • Essex Cloud Dodgers's Topics
  • Essex Cloud Dodgers's New equipment
  • NLO and Planetarium's Topics
  • Astronomical Society of Edinburgh's Discussion
  • Dorset Stargazers's Topics
  • Hairy Stars Club (Comets)'s Tutorials and Guides
  • Hairy Stars Club (Comets)'s General Discussion
  • Hairy Stars Club (Comets)'s Observing Campaigns
  • Hairy Stars Club (Comets)'s Analysis results
  • Hairy Stars Club (Comets)'s Useful Links
  • Pixinsight Users Club's Pixinsight Discussion Forum

Calendars

  • Astro TV
  • Celestial Events
  • SGL Calendar
  • Astro Society Events
  • Star Parties
  • WADAS's Events
  • Beaufort Club's Events
  • Astronomical Society of Edinburgh's Events
  • Dorset Stargazers's Events

Blogs

There are no results to display.

There are no results to display.


Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Interests


Location

Found 65 results

  1. I scrapped all the Oiii and Sii data I previously took during a full moon (about 15 hours worth) and retook it all when the moon was a bit smaller at 76%. Ha was taken during 98% and 67% moon. All the lights were taken on the following nights: 12th, 19th and 20th September 2019. Integration times, all in 600s subs unbinned: Ha = 28.33 hours Oiii= = 5.67 hours Sii = 5.67 hours The Ha data is really nice, and unsurprisingly the Oiii and Sii is not as strong (or nice). I'm missing that (vital) step in my processing routine of getting the Sii and Oiii properly stretched to match the Ha, before combining. I dont really know how to deal with the weaker data properly. Any pointers would be appreciated. What I do currently: All the data is loaded into APP into separate channels/sessions. The data is stacked and registered against the best Ha sub This produces individual stacks of Ha, Sii and Oiii that are all registered Each channel is processed with DPP in APP and then saved as a 16bit TIFF Each is opened in PS Stars removed with AA and any remnants removed and tidied up I then open a blank RGB document in PS I paste Ha into Green, Sii into Red and Oiii into Blue Adjust the selective colour settings to get 'Hubble palette' Adjust levels, curves, saturation until looks ok All the Ha Sii Oiii data is then combined together in a single 'super' stack in APP using quality weighted algorithm to create a 'luminance' That luminance layer is adjusted using levels, curves, and NC tools such as local contrast enhancement and deep space noise reduction (using masks to apply as required) The luminance is pasted onto the above colour layer, and incrementally added using gaussian blur Cropped and saved. Here it is anyway I haven't intended on any more exposure time for this one, but will consider it, if the expert opinion dictates otherwise! CS Adam
  2. Hello, I own a Vixen ED-80 refractor which is used with a custom focuser by Telescope Service. (pictured below) A Celestron f/6 SCT reducer corrector did not provide decent images either because it is not appropriate or because I did not maintain the correct distance. I am thinking of buying the Sky-Watcher .85x Reducer/Flattener instead, as it is made for similar ED80 telescopes. I do not know what is the correct distance of the SkyWatcher reducer for my setup and more important, I do not know if it will focus with the custom TS focuser. Do you have any similar setup that you have used successfully? Clear Skies! Paul
  3. Hello stargazers! after fixing the ED80 focuser tilt and FFR spacing issues (http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/249588-sw-ed80-reducer-elongated-stars-problem/) I have some trail (i think) in all exposures i take but it takes a lot of time to really build up and manifests in the images even in the center of the field! It becomes slightly visible in 10mins, worse in 20mins and in my opinion unusable in 30mins exposures. Gear used : Heq5 Pro Modified finderscope with QHY5 bolted firmly (although on 3 screw baader rings on single shoe on one of the rings not on a plate) on top of the ED80 Pulse guiding through ascom + pec trained and applied corrections while imaging One shot of 1800secs from last night Here is the plate solve of the image if that is of any help. Image Plate Solver script version 3.5.1 =============================================================================== Referentiation Matrix (Gnomonic projection = Matrix * Coords[x,y]): +0.00059136 -3.35323e-005 -0.948749 +3.35667e-005 +0.000591379 -0.805052 +0 +0 +1 Projection origin.. [1676.147757 1266.175055]pix -> [RA:+02 54 45.62 Dec:+60 26 33.75] Resolution ........ 2.132 arcsec/pix Rotation .......... 176.752 deg Focal ............. 522.35 mm Pixel size ........ 5.40 um Field of view ..... 1d 59' 7.6" x 1d 29' 59.1" Image center ...... RA: 02 54 45.583 Dec: +60 26 33.36 Image bounds: top-left ....... RA: 02 47 15.353 Dec: +59 37 27.51 top-right ...... RA: 03 02 57.738 Dec: +59 44 03.24 bottom-left .... RA: 02 46 12.014 Dec: +61 07 05.13 bottom-right ... RA: 03 02 38.669 Dec: +61 13 59.48 =============================================================================== 200% crop of the centre of the image shows the problem clearly. And here is PhDLabs last night's analysis log. Second run does not look much different than the first one (to my untrained eyes at least). The phd graph did look at its best (flatline like) What do ladies and gents think? bad polar alignment, backlash on gears, differential flexure? If anyone has suggestions of the nature of the problem might be, I would be grateful.
  4. Hello. I was hoping someone might be able to help me??? This is my first post, so first off I just want to say a big "hello" to everyone here at Stargazers Lounge. My equipment is: Skywatcher ED 80 + FF/HEQ5/V2.04 Skyscan handcontroller/Tracer 12v battery/Canon 6D, I am not guiding or using a PC. My issue is......I can't get the GOTO function to work perfectly. My HEQ5 GOTO keeps on missing its target everywhere when I do a 2 star alignment. The target is just outside the field of view using a ED80 and 28mm eyepiece. When I do a 1 star alignment I seem to get much better GOTO results but start missing targets when I move further away from the star 1 used for alignment. I have done all the basics...I have callibrated the polar scope, levelled mount, entered correct info into the controller (date in US/Co-ordinates in hrs+mins) Polar aligned ok, tightened Dec and RA bolts and made sure HEQ5 is in home position before turning on the power, tried to centre the star when aligning etc. A few things I noticed over 3 nights of using my HEQ5 were: Night 1) Tried a few two star alignments with Alkaid and Betelgeuse but i found that the Goto was off on Jupiter and the moon in the East. I could see the light of the moon through the telescope but had to the center using the handset. Same issue with Jupiter.Tried again from scratch 3 times but always the same result. I used the same alignment stars because I'm not so sure on others yet apart from the obvious and some of those were not on the list the skyscan controller gave me.I gave up on the goto in the end and just looked at Jupiter and the moon for a few hours....they were superb, I was amazed at how far I could push Jupiter with the ED80, almost better than my 200p in ways.I can see why people like refractors! Night 2)Set the mount up. Tried the same 2 stars and got the same result.However this time I tried some targets to the West in Auriga without thinking about it and the Goto seemed more accurate????Is this because I aligned with Alcaid near the North and Betelgeuse in the West, therefore it tracks better in the Western side of the Meridian? Night 3) I then tried out a 1 star alignment just to see what the difference would be (I used Alkaid) I can get M51 and M101 bang in the centre of my Canon 6D but M81/82 start to appear to the top left corner and not in the centre....the tracking seems to be going off the further I move away from my alignment star.I then chose M44 in Cancer because it is to the South and it was off in the frame to the left, like the 2 star alignment was giving me......I assumed though that maybe this is the case with one star alignment, it can cope in an area near the alignment star but as you move further away it gets worse???? Using the 1 star alignment gave me a chance to do a bit of imaging for the first time so I stuck with that. I have not tried 3 star alignment yet and I know that this helps compensate for cone error...I will be trying this next anyway to see what I get. Is there a way to get the Goto to work on targets all over the Sky? Do most imagers just choose a star near the area of sky they want to image in and use the 1 star alignment?? For visual I thought the 2 star alignment should work but to be honest the 1 star was better!! I would really like to get the GOTO to work on any target i choose wherever it is in the sky. Anyway I've just started so I have a lot to try and experiment with but I thought I would try some suggestions here because I might be missing something obvious? Any help would be fantastic Thank you and clear skies to all. PS.I have included 3 pics to show how the first 2 targets are central but the third is starting to go amiss.They are also my first ever Images so thought I would share. If anyone knows what those black marks are on my images any advice to get rid of them would be really usefull...looks like something on the sensor...or from deep outer space..lol.
  5. very very cloudy here got these pics by the skin of me teeth, darn forcast wrong again , the new AR is looking very nice in the vis in the clear bits, there looks to be 1 spot but could be a few pores aswell. kit- ed80, ERF, Quark chromo, asi 120mc. thanks for looking and I hope you have better skys than me, charl. AR2650. Wider AR2648. Wider. prom not very good image, the cloud wouldn't play fair.
  6. frugal

    M51

    Like so many other people on here, I was taking advantage of the clear night on Saturday to get some imaging done. M51 was nice and high in the sky, so I thought I would have a go as I had never tried this particular galaxy before. After a while the guiding was fairly stable (not brilliant, but stable), and there was space on the histogram, so I changed from 5 min subs to 10 min subs in the hope of getting some more faint detail out. The focus was spot on according to the Bahtinov mask, so I am assuming my big soft stars are either seeing, or guiding wobbles. The RMS error for guiding was 0.88" pretty much constantly for the whole session. With the Camera / scope combination I am imaging at 1.74"/pixel, so that means that 3 std dev of guiding error (which is 99% of the distribution) is +- 2.64" which should cover a 3 pixel area (2.64"x2 / 1.74 = 3.03). However the image seems a lot softer than that. M51 by frugal10191, on Flickr Lights: 22 x 300s @ ISO800; 16 @ 600s ISO800 Darks: 112 x 300s Bias: 492 Flats: 23 x 1/8s Integration: Bayer Drizzle (Scale 2, Drop Shrink 1.0) Mount: Skywatcher AZ-EQ6 GT Imaging Telescope: Skywatcher ED80 DS-Pro with 0.85x FF/FR Imaging Camera: Canon 60D (Unmodified) Guiding Telescope: Skywatcher ST-80 Guiding Camera: Starlight Xpress Lodestar X2 Software: Sequence Generator Pro, PHD2, PixInsight
  7. seeings not so good today , very fine cloud hovering in front of sol and fazy too, AR2645 has nearly gone, its been a great AR and I'm sad to see it go. 2648 is a poor replacement I hope it develops. kit- ed80, Quark chromo, asi120mc, about 300 frames in each shot . thanks for looking and I wish you clear skys, charl. ar2648. ar2645. wider prom 1 invert prom 2 invert. ive 16 more vids so there might be some updates... Heres the other half of my imaging team looking out for clouds... and now hes processing.....
  8. "Oh no its that guy who carnt stop taking pics of the moon again" " somebody help him" too late !. qwick twilight moon. kit ed80, 2xed barlow, 1200d. thanks for looking, clear skys , charl. lazy moon 80 fames. wide 100 frames. right way up.
  9. qwick afternoon one, seeings a bit hazy with a fair bit of cloud about. kit ed80 1200d, 65 frames staxed with regi. thanks for looking and I hope you have clear skys. charl. wide. 2pane mosaic taken with ed80 and asi120mc. cu1. cu2.
  10. good seeing tonight from 21.30, a few bits of cloud about, the moon is steady with a small bit of fazing. kit- ed80 + 1200d for wide, AR127L +1200d for larger, AR127L +asi120mc for close ups . thanks for looking, and I wish you clear skys with great seeing. charl. wide 70 frames staxed with regi. larger 90 frames staxed with regi. assorted close ups, 2000 frames sorted with PIPP best 200 staxed with regi.
  11. a not so qwick moon, dodging cloud but won in the end, seeing was fair there was a bit of fazing. kit- ed80 1200d for wide, AR127L 1200d for larger, asi120mc for closeups. thanks for looking, clear skys, charl. wide. closer. and closer still. and this crazy mosaic, I just let ice do it its self and it made this so I thought it looked cool so I posted it.
  12. MINE! ALL MINE!! The Optical Array Left to Right: ED80 Baader Sky Surfer V ED127 Teleoptics Ercole Mount, Orion SkyView Pro Extension, Celestron AVX 2" Steel Tripod C9.25 SCT Note the correct use of the eyepiece tray and the mandatory Bluetooth speaker upgrade. This is the CORRECT way to do visual
  13. I currently have a 200p on a manual Dobsonian mount. I have also read the 'making every photon count' book. I have a modded xbox webcam and a decent digital camera. Please check out my pictures at www.mauton.co.uk Based on the pictures I have taken so far, I am being bitten by the astrophotography bug - and I am very limited at the minute my not having a motorized mount. Below is my plan which while I wont buy everything over-night I want to run it by you guys to get your advice / opinions on it. I am probably more interested in DSO / clusters than planetary, how I would like to think that my setup is at least capable of taking planetary images. Step 1 - DSLR Canon 1100d While I know that I will not be able to take anything more than several seconds of exposure, I am still interested in taking pictures of the moon and possible short exposure shots of Jupiter / Saturn. I also believe that if I buy a fast lens f/1.4 I may be able to stack multiple short exposure pictures of Orion (using a simple camera stand). Will also be interesting to directly attach the camera to my current scope via a t-scope. Step 2 - ED80 Pro OTA From reading these forums the ED80 scope possibly gives the best bang for the buck. Q1. Will a 1100d attached to the ED80 (tracking/guided) - produce good results? Q2. - I would like to ultimately but a HEQ5 Pro mount, however is there a lighter / cheaper tracking mount I could buy to mount the ED80 ? Q3 - Would it be worth attaching a guide camera to the 1100d / ED80 ? Step 3 - HEQ5 Pro I am looking at the HEQ5 Pro with Syntrek and then to use the EQMOD. This should save me around £140 compared to the Synscan. My aim here is to mount my 200p on this mount and attach the 1100d camera to it for imaging. Q1. What advantage would i gain from imaging from the 200p as opposed to the ED80? - Would one give me better images of DSO and the other planetary? Q2. If i mounted the ED80 on the 200p, what does this give me the ability to do??? or am i better off just using 1 scope at a time? I know there are lots of questions - but before splashing out a lot of ££ I need to know that I am at least on the right tracks. Thanks
  14. From the album: 2015 Various

    recently found a cheap 16ic mono - a little old and kernakkered but does the job :) A stack of 7 or 8 subs of 300s 400s and 500s (kept increasing exposure length once good tracking had been established)
  15. Hi, i seem to have a dirty lens on the telescope side of the lens. Anyone disasemble this before ? I already checked the camera, filter, and focal reducer seperatly, the "staines" are from the telescope-side of the lens (already cleaned the outside of the lens to) Flat frame
  16. two frames just to show im still paying attention, snatched from relentless cloud so not the best. hope you all have better skys than me, thanks for looking. charl. AR2665 2nd time round... proms oncoming limb lower part. and a artistic version.
  17. Hi Everyone, I am experimenting with my new dual scope setup trying to decide on the best way to image with the combination of SW-ED80/WO-ZS71/414osc/428mono. This is M33 with 21x300s from the ED80+414osc and 20x180s L + 5x600s Ha at which point clouds stopped play. RGB, L and Ha were processed separately in PI and then combined in PS with a luminosity L layer and an Ha lighten applied to R - I think/hope as per @ollypenrice advice. As ever any comments on any aspect of the scope setup, process or image would be much appreciated. Thank you for looking. Adrian
  18. well thay said it was going to be 100% clear this morning, so I got 90% fast moving cloud, managed to get a few vids none without cloud in them, not the best of shots ive had to do a lot of photoshop magic on them. WL is blank apart from some snakey stuff on the on coming limb, HA theres a few filaments near the top of the disc, no big proms. kit ed80,quark chromo, asi120mc, for HA, 120mm f5, lunt wedge, 1200d for WL. thanks for looking and I hope you have better skys than me. charl. oncoming limb. fillaments. prom 1 near 6 oclock. prom 2 near 1 oclock WL. look what I got yesterday as a gift from my daughter, MacBook pro i7 . I'm very happy
  19. cracking skys thismorrning, tiptop seeing, but I'm feeling under the weather, think ive got flu, so just a qwick process, ive still 145gb to do but I'm leave it for today my head fells like its in the shed. kit ed80, quark chromo, asi 120mc for HA, 120mm f5 frac, lunt wedge, 1200d for WL. hope you all have these wonderfull skys, thanks for looking. charl. WL MONO. AR2659. AR2659 Again diff frame. AR2659. Artistic I could not help myself... proms in no order. these have just been staxed no other processing 1 2 3 invert. 4 5 6 quite a change in 5 min between these shots 5 and 6 WL coloured.
  20. nice and sunny here in south wales today, seeing started off good then dropped about 9am to just above poor when I wanted to do a bit of vis. AR2656 is nice , not a very big spot but theres loads going on around it. theres a fat filament just at the bottom of it, theres a few mid size proms at 10 and 2 oclock, and a few small ones around the disc. kit- ed80, quark chromo, asi120mc for HA, 120mm f5 frac, lunt wedge, 1200d for WL. Hope you all have clear skys. thanks for looking, charl. AR2656. More towards the center. whats left of the other AR. prom 1, at 10 oclock. invert. prom 2 at 2 oclock. invert. WL.
  21. I must say seeing is the best I had this year, got a few nice vids 36 in all . AR2644 looks fantastic in the vis, ive sat for a hour watching and the development in a hour is staggering, its very active, hopefully it will grow in the next few days, hope the weathers good to us. kit- ed80 ,ERF,Quark Chromo, asi120mc cam. software, firecapture, Pipp, AS2,photoshop. havnt had to do much tickling in PS as the vids was quite good, just curvs. thanks for looking, clear skys , charl. HA1. CU1 this one shot at 800x800, loads less line at this size, and ive took me time to process. HA2 HA3 whats left of AR2643... HA4 the new AR2645 ?... PROM 1 PROM2 PROM3
  22. I am currently pondering getting a refractor for mainly visual, the main use would be planets, but also as a general visual scope. The slight complication is that I am starting to get in to astrophotography, mainly using the Star adventurer and a canon dslr. After a lot of reading the SW 80ED looks like the ideal candidate for the astrophotography side, but is it too limited for visual? My eyepiece setup is mainly 2", with a 2X barlow. Looking at for sale adds, ebay and new I can afford Skywatcher Evostar 80ED DS-Pro OTA (£350 + a star diagonal. This is really over budget) Lightwave Altair 72ED-R on ebay for £275 Vixen 102m Refractor Telescope OTA (£175) Starwave Premium F11 Refractor (£300) I keep coming back to the 80ED because it would small enough to be nicely portable, I could probably get away with mounting it on the star adventurer and take it when I go camping. I am just unsure how usable it is for visual. Mount wise I am sorted. Cheers Jon
  23. Hi guys, So finally after QHY sorted all the issues with UB2 I was able to capture some data to give a good test run to my new QHY163M, I choose something "easy" in Ha as this will be my primary aim with this camera, as I image mainly from my light polluted back yard at the city This was just a quick and dirty processing, to be honest I was like a zombie after a days work but I had to do it, it's been siitting for a few days waiting for processing, something is not very well I suspect with my dark or bias frames as I see a lighter band at the bottom of the image, seems like the amp glow did not callibrate out perfectly but that should be something or some bad frame in the stack so will have to see that in better detail...also yes, the microlenses reflection is a concern, very well visible on the brighter star, there is a simmetrical reflection around the star, I sure hope the gurus will find an easy way to deal with this in the future...maybe a PS plug in hehehe Appart from that, it need more frames to clean up the dim areas, but the details are quite something for only 480mm f/l. setup used: QHY163M SW ED80 at f/6 Baader Ha 7nm filter EQ6 mount autoguided with ASI 120MM and a 50mm finder Stack of 35x300 secs at Gain20 Offset100 USB traffic 5 Plus 15x60 secs + 10x15 secs for the core (still slightly overexposed) So this is a first "draft" and I will get back at it for inprovement when I'm feeling fresher must check the callibration frames and smooth out the background. Here on Flickr resized to 50%: https://www.flickr.c...eposted-public/ Hope you enjoy, Cheers,
  24. lovely moon tonight with good seeing, I watch it rise from my obsyroom window. kit ed80 for wide and AR127L for large and 1200d. no barlows or filters where harmed taking these pics. thanks for looking, and I hope you have clear sky. charl. wide. closer.
  25. Aenima

    wizardHaOiii

    From the album: CCD venture

    A h-alpha and OIII shot of the Wizard nebula NGC7380. Processed to resemble the hubble palette colour scheme. ED80 - ATK16HR - Ha clip filter - EQ6 - finderguider 9x50mm PhD2 - photoshop - DSS.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.