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Found 8 results

  1. Hi Everyone, Not posted some images since my introduction in the welcome section. With the dark nights finally back here in Scotland I thought Id share some of the DSOs I managed to capture back in Feb-April just before the light nights rolled in at the start of May. These were all stacked and edited in PixInsight. 1. The Running Man and Orion Nebula - less than an hour of integration time (SA pro + fuji 55-200mm lens). 2. Bodes and Cigar Galaxy - Less than an hour of integration time ( SA pro + SW 72 ED telescope). 3. Flame, Horsehead, Running Man and Orion Nebula - Less than an hour of integration time (SA pro + fuji 55-200mm lens). 4. Pinwheel Galaxy - 35 mins integration time (SA pro + SW 72 ED telescope). 5 Whirlpool Galaxy - 21 mins integration time (SA pro + SW 72 ED telescope). 6. Andromeda Galaxy - 1.5 minutes integration time (Move Shoot Move + fuji 55-200mm lens).
  2. Hi there, I recently posted a thread getting ideas for what scope and mount I should get for beginner astrophotography. After researching on my own and getting thoughts from others on scopes and mounts here is what I have come up with. Mount - Skywatcher EQ5 GOTO Scope - Sky-Satcher Explorer 130P-DS Guide Scope - Skywatcher Evoguide ED50 Guide Camera - ZWO ASI120MM Mini DSLR - Canon 350D I understand that the camera I am using is fairly old but it is an old DSLR that I have at home and it saves me money on buying a new camera. All in all this setup comes to just over £1000; I just wanted to people's get thoughts on this set up and if it can be improved in any way without stretching the budget by more than £100. Also I wanted to know whether any of the equipment I have chosen isn't great. Thanks in advance, Ryan
  3. Greetings everyone. I recently scored a great deal on facebook marketplace and bought Skywatcher Skymax 180 mm Maksutov-Cassegrain Telescope (f/15) with EQ6R-pro mount. I understand that long focal length telescopes are more suitable for planetary imaging. However, as I am tight on budget, I would like to use the same scope for deep-sky astrophotography. I have Canon Rebel T5 DSLR camera that I am using for taking images. Without autoguiding and a decent polar alignment, I can get ~30 seconds long shots without any star trailing, but that's not sufficient for imaging objects like M51. I would like to be able to integrate longer, say few minutes, thus would like to purchase an autoguider. Here are some specific questions I have. 1). The telescope comes with an 8 x 50 straight-through finder. If I were to use it as a guidescope, what type of image integration time can I expect? Has anyone done autoguiding for f/15 scope with an 8x50 or other finderscopes? 2). If the integration time will be an issue with the 8x50 finder scope, I am open to purchasing an off-axis-guider. However, considering the narrow field-of-view of Mak-180 telescope, I am concerned about not having enough photons from guidestar for autoguiding. For instance, with my DSLR camera, I need to integrate 20-30 seconds to see the nearby stars in M51. What type of OAG and camera would I need to autoguide with my scope? Are there affordable cameras (~$200) that would do the job for me? Would ASI120MM Mini Monochrome (~$150) do the job? What about OAG? I plan to use phd2 software for autoguiding rather than relying on the build-in guide port on the mount. Instead of integrating for hours, I am planning to do DSS stacking of few mintues long multiple shots, hopefully this will put less strict requirements on the autoguider. In case this information is relevant: with my current setup, I have no issue pointing my scope to a desired deep-sky object, track the object within the field-of-view of my DSLR camera for hours using the mechnical tracking of the EQ6 mount. For instance following is a single raw image of Ring nebula taken with 30 seconds shot. But it is not enough for generating high-quality images. Thank you in advance for your help. Regards, Jay
  4. In my moderately light-polluted skies, I've been hunting for this galaxy for several nights in a row. Was starting to doubt I'd ever see it. Finally, guided by Stellarium (double-flipped so it matches what I see in the finderscope), I managed to find the right patch of sky. Absolutely no trace of the galaxy in either finderscope, or main scope, but in a 30 second exposure of the DSLR, I finally made out a fuzzy blob. Thrilling moment, I have to say! (I guess that's why we do what we do...). Sadly, I had to rush to get just 10 x 2 minute subs before the clouds came in, but I'm totally inspired and waiting for the next clear night to do a better job. (Skywatcher 200P, EQ5 GoTo mount unguided, Canon 450D ISO 800, 10 x 2min subs, 8 x darks, no flats) Seeing the spiral arms emerge in the longer subs was a first for me - I'm convinced with 32 subs (maybe pushing out to 3 minute exposures) - I'll get a lot more detail and colour. Any suggestions for my next session? The vignetting was something crazy, so I'm certainly taking flats next time.
  5. This one didnt quite go as planned, i think i might have tried to overcorrect for alot of things during post processing, but i might as well share it with you guys anyways. Then again, perhaps i've just stared too much at it during processing.. Anyways, i hope you like it m81 & m82 LRGB L 74 frames of 180s = 222 min R 41 frames of 180s = 123 min G 40 frames of 180s = 120 min B 38 frames of 180s = 114 min Total int. 9,6 hours 8" Reflecltor telescope ZWO ASI 1600mm camera Eq6-R Pro mount L 74 frames of 180s = 222 min R 41 frames of 180s = 123 min G 40 frames of 180s = 120 min B 38 frames of 180s = 114 min Total int. 9,6 hours
  6. For Deep-Sky AP of mostly galaxies (and nebulae), what'll give me the best results– a medium-weight 130 P-DS or a very lightweight wide-field WO Z61? I know the "best" telescope is one that doesn't just collect dust all day long, but I just can't figure it out. Supporting said telescope will be the SW HEQ5 PRO Synscan (with the Rowan Astronomy belt attached), which will be supported further by a autoguiding system, possibly a very lightweight CF 32mm refractor with a ZWO ASI 120mm Mini (Can't find the -S model in Japan). On the telescope'll be the Canon EOS 600D, quite a heavy beast IMO. Instead of leaving it here, I'll say (just blurt out) everything I know about these seemingly-equal telescopes. The 130 P-DS, clocking in at F/5, will produce fantastic photos of Nebulae and Galaxies alike, although its aperture will slightly limit the galaxies it'll see. It seems this telescope does particularly well when it comes to imaging M81 or M51, and Nebulae like the Rosette. Its price-performance ratio is basically unbeatable, as it's only 250$ over here in Japan and it cranks out fantastic images. The only addition I'll need will be a F/5 SW-issued Coma Corrector; however, I don't need to worry as I'll be getting one from me mum in a few week's time. The William Optics Z61, which has a slightly higher F number of 5.9. It sports 2 lenses with FPL-53 elements in them, allowing for extremely high contrast images of nebulae like the Rosette, Orion, all that lot. I've previously asked a similar question, and I've been convinced by the answer that "I won't really be able to take images of galaxies other than M31, Andromeda, and M33, Triangulum. So why do I even have this as an option when I could just go with the cheaper 130 P-DS? Well because it's a wide field APO. Everything it supports, whether it be the design to the focuser, is just amazing, so much so I can't emphasise the emotion enough. On Astrobin, I've checked out what kind of images these telescopes produce, and I encountered a problem– pretty much everyone was using everything but the 600D. They all used the fancy Mono-cooled CCDs like the ZWO ASI 1600MM Pro. Clear skies, Leon.
  7. Hello everyone! I have recently been thinking about the possibility of having my camera modified for astrophotography, but know very little about the subject, and have a good few questions: How much would I gain from this process? As far as I know, the effects of removing IR-Block filters, considerably improves the imaging of H-Alpha objects, but by how much? Roughly how much would this process cost me? How unusable would the camera then become for terrestrial photography? From what I know, it is bad, but editing can improve the situation. If I decided to get my camera modded, where would be a good place to get it done?I don't know much about it, but from what I have heard, it can very a very useful process. Thanks for your help David
  8. Seeing several excellent images of the 'Needle' posted recently by members prompted me to go back and have another go at processing one of my own efforts from a while back. I think this is a worthwhile improvement with more detail extracted in the dust lane. It's 6.4 hours luminance (1x1) and 3.2 hours RGB (2x2), taken with a SW MN190 and QSI583 with OAG. This is a crop of the central area. A wider field view can be seen here: http://universalconstant.com/NGC4565_AP_crop2.jpg
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