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Showing results for tags 'ccd'.
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From the album: CCD venture
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From the album: CCD venture
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From the album: CCD venture
A h-alpha and OIII shot of the Wall section of NGC7000 aka north america nebula. Processed to resemble the hubble palette colour scheme. ED80 - ATK16HR - Ha clip filter - EQ6 - finderguider 9x50mm PhD2 - photoshop - DSS. -
From the album: 2015 Various
recently found a cheap 16ic mono - a little old and kernakkered but does the job :) A stack of 7 or 8 subs of 300s 400s and 500s (kept increasing exposure length once good tracking had been established) -
From the album: Badgers - Astrophotos
First test of my Atik 460ex LRGB (50mins L, 15mins each RGB, 1x1 binned)© Anton Enright 2012
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From the album: 2013/2014 planetary
Lumenera lu070m - jupiter, 3x barlow in 200p/eq5 30+ fps© Aenima
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I have no idea how this stacks up to other cameras, but I figured I’d post this new camera from Meade for those imagers out there. https://www.meade.com/accessories/cameras/deep-sky-imager-dsi-iv/deep-sky-imager-iv-dsi-iv-color.html
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Hi - I just wanna share my latest build - based on Starlight Express optical rig in which they align their camerachip / housings before the ship them out - And i was inspired to build my own. I am very keen to be able to do so much adjustments and tuning to my gear during the day as possible - and this is another method of doing just that, and in this case the aligning of camera tilt which can be a royal PITA during the dark and -20 degree C. So, here is the SX article on what i was going to build: SX Article Note: I haven't reciieved my new camera yet so the video does not contain the actual adjustment, but as soon as i get my new camera - I will show just how it works! /Daniel
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Hi, I have been getting a lot of questions regarding what components my "optical test rig" has, and how to clamp the camera/laser with. I found some new bits and pieces which makes it very simple to build your own rig -
I have an old StarlightXpress Frame store that hasn't been used for years. After the order from "on-high" to de-clutter I was going to take it to the skip along with other old astro stuff, but thought I'd just check to see if it was working. It appears to work fine so if any use can be found for it I would rather donate it to someone than take it to the skip. For those not familiar with the SX original Framestore it is self contained and only needed a PC to save images. To do that there was rudimentary software and a card to insert into the PC. Of course, being the late 1990's it was designed for use with Windows 98. To save images would require an old desktop with Windowa 98 or maybe Windows 2000 on it. However, for taking short or long exposure images and displaying them on a screen no PC is needed. I did use it at a star party to do just that. Showing a group of people objects they couldn't see well, if at all, through the scope directly collected quite a crowd. In the spirit of reducing landfill, if it can be of any use to anyone who is prepared to collect it from Maidenhead I will happily give it away. I attach images of the setup taken last week. Ian B
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Helo, i have CCD tracer talkcam. I have done modifiing (i took out lens so CCD sensor has nothing in front, i put adapter with infrared filter). I have problems with everything. When i put moon in focus every thing is just white. Other things are just black. I dont know which software for imaging (free software) is best. I have sometinh that came with camera and dont have much setup to set. Which software do you use for imaging (and what should I set up?). Does anybody have this camera?? any picture with it?? I tried some pics in daytime and magnification is veeeeery high. Am i doeing something wrong??
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Hey there, Curious about which CCD's you have been or are using successfully with auto guiding on a rpi2 or even a rpi3? lin_guider seems to support a bunch of manufacturers but a list of what models are proven to work with the Raspberry pi's will surely help my quest! Cheers for the help! -
Has anyone modified and used a car CCD reversing camera for use in a scope?
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Hi there I was wondering if there's a scientific way to identify that you have the correct exposure settings/time for an object, using the image data readouts provided by most capture software? I have Nebulosity, but prefer SGP. I appreciate that each set-up is different, but having taken various exposures from 30s to 10min (all guided), I'm still at a loss of how to work out my best settings. I've tried various gain settings, and found if I used g=1 on a 10min exposure of M42, the image was super clean, but not so much detail as I hoped for. This is clearly a balancing act, but I'd like to apply some logic to the settings, if possible. My equipment: Celestron C11 with CGEM DX Mount. ZWO ASI1600MC-COOL. I have great polar alignment, and guiding is exceptional, giving perfectly round stars at 10min exposures. I cool the OSC to -20 to reduce noise. Culmination is good and the optics are all clean. My location is poor as I'm working from a balcony that vibrates when traffic passes on the main road, but am still able to get decent images, even if a little lacking in fine detail. Thanks in advance Chris
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Canon 6D - stacking short vs long subs?
GTom posted a topic in Imaging - Tips, Tricks and Techniques
I just upgraded to a 6D and checking in theory, what is the ideal ISO and frametime for the new setup. Looking at the read-noise characteristics, ISO should not be kept low - however, increasing the ISO kills the full well capacity, at ISO3200 I got only 2400e-(!), which quickly leads to DR problems. I feel ISO1600 could be a meaningful compromise between FW and read noise. Regarding noise and frametimes: I know, long subs are in general preferred. Looking at the overall S/N formula, in theory I'd loose only about 20% on the S/N if I shoot 10 subs instead of one long exposure thanks to the ~3e- read noise. Is my maths right? If the read noise is significantly below 5e-, can we really go in photon counting mode/save a lot on mounts? I made a quick excel plot on the story: practically ISO3200 delivers the same results using 10 frames as 5 frames shot at iso 800. I added 0.2e-/sec/pixel dark noise (~5°C cooled eos 6D value) and a signal, that generates 150electrons in a 2 minutes sub, I didn't add photon noise.- 11 replies
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Does it make any sense to shoot H-beta along H-alpha for narrowband imaging? They are both arising from the same element, although I don't know whether their ratio remains the same for all emission nebulae...
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Thought this might be interesting for anyone who might consider a ASA mount, or anyone else who just wan't to follow my adventures trying my best in the obsy Anyway - here is the video of me polar aligning and making a new sky model /Daniel
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Hey guys it is getting really cold and this is the first time I'm using laptop in the field for imaging, so I have no idea how to use the laptop in subzero temperatures. Last year when i was checking something in Stellarium, my screen just froze and did not work until i had it warmed. I get that it is Liquid Crystal, and will freeze in subzero temps. So how can i use it in the filed, all night long, without freezing it to death? Sorry for bad English Regards -
I am looking for user reviews about the Starlight Xpress Trius 825 Monochrome camera. Tried Google, but nothing so far. I'd also appreciate a general review of the Trius series of cameras. May help me in making an informed decision. Is the cooling as good as they claim? -50C below ambient?
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Greetings everyone. I recently scored a great deal on facebook marketplace and bought Skywatcher Skymax 180 mm Maksutov-Cassegrain Telescope (f/15) with EQ6R-pro mount. I understand that long focal length telescopes are more suitable for planetary imaging. However, as I am tight on budget, I would like to use the same scope for deep-sky astrophotography. I have Canon Rebel T5 DSLR camera that I am using for taking images. Without autoguiding and a decent polar alignment, I can get ~30 seconds long shots without any star trailing, but that's not sufficient for imaging objects like M51. I would like to be able to integrate longer, say few minutes, thus would like to purchase an autoguider. Here are some specific questions I have. 1). The telescope comes with an 8 x 50 straight-through finder. If I were to use it as a guidescope, what type of image integration time can I expect? Has anyone done autoguiding for f/15 scope with an 8x50 or other finderscopes? 2). If the integration time will be an issue with the 8x50 finder scope, I am open to purchasing an off-axis-guider. However, considering the narrow field-of-view of Mak-180 telescope, I am concerned about not having enough photons from guidestar for autoguiding. For instance, with my DSLR camera, I need to integrate 20-30 seconds to see the nearby stars in M51. What type of OAG and camera would I need to autoguide with my scope? Are there affordable cameras (~$200) that would do the job for me? Would ASI120MM Mini Monochrome (~$150) do the job? What about OAG? I plan to use phd2 software for autoguiding rather than relying on the build-in guide port on the mount. Instead of integrating for hours, I am planning to do DSS stacking of few mintues long multiple shots, hopefully this will put less strict requirements on the autoguider. In case this information is relevant: with my current setup, I have no issue pointing my scope to a desired deep-sky object, track the object within the field-of-view of my DSLR camera for hours using the mechnical tracking of the EQ6 mount. For instance following is a single raw image of Ring nebula taken with 30 seconds shot. But it is not enough for generating high-quality images. Thank you in advance for your help. Regards, Jay -
Hi all, first post on the forum. I'm just getting into Astronomy after many years of being interested in the idea, and am just getting to grips with the Celestron Evo 9.25 and all the extras I have annoyed the wife by buying. The one aspect I am confused about is how my Skyris 236 CCD will work when attached to the visual back of the scope. After playing around for a bit it seems that what the camera sees is not quite what I expected, I guess many here will think this is a very straight forward topic but I have searched high and low for a more detailed explanations and cannot find one. I'd really appreciate any information/advice that forum members have on the following; Firstly after focusing an object through an eyepiece and then attaching the CCD there is a great deal of focusing required to get the image re-focused. This creates an issue as I have a JMI motofocuser fitted and it takes a long time to get there, in fact a few times I have removed the JMI and then carried out the majority of the refocusing by hand! Can someone provide any information on how far the two focus points (for eyepiece and CCD) could be apart? It seems the two are on opposite ends of the focusing scale. I guess when I get more proficient with the CCD (I'm very interested in the photographic side of astronomy), the focusing between the two will not be required as often. Secondly, and this may not be easy to answer, if I have a Skyris 236 CCD attached what percentage of the available FOV, compared to say a 40mm eyepiece, will be visible? Will the view be comparable to a specific eyepiece focal length? I'm enjoying the discovery process of getting used to the Evo, understanding what can be expected from the CCD will greatly help in this. Thanks for any input you may have. -
I am deciding to jump in and purchase a used CCD camera. Some of you may already know of my plans as I have posted them on other popular fora a week back. I am in a dilema because one question plagues my mind. The Orion G3, being a started CCD is also easy on my pocket, specially a used one. The upside with it is that it is a perfect match for the GSO6" RC that I am buying this month (gives me 1.31"/pixel). However, it has a pixel array of ~ 750x520 which means that the full size image will still be quite small. Other than the small array, the chip does have some good characteristics like 50k full well capacity, low noise etc. Which other camera would match up to it and why? Any experiences anyone?
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Hi, I was asked on a Swedish forum to put an "Astronomical Dictionary" on my homepage. I have made a test page in an easy form. Astronomical related words linked to wikipedia. It aims to the beginners in astronomy so it should not be too complicated words. http://astrofriend.eu/astronomy/astronomical-dictionary/astronomical-dictionary.html Let me know if it's useful and and I shall add more words. /Lars
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OK, so i am considering a long term move from my trusty DSLR to a pure astro cam. I sort of figured out the following things (just my opinion!): A DSLR like my Canon EOS 550D gives a large, decent sensor at an affordable price - zero (if you already own one). In order to really step things remarkably up, i'll probably have to go Mono and cooled - it does not make sense to shell out 4 figures for a small change. I would also like to go for the hubble palette- lets do it right the first try... This means that the investment for me will be at least camera + computer controlled filter wheel + 3 narrow band filters + who knows what else! If i go for the ASI 1600 cool, it looks like the total investment would be positively north of 2200 EUR/GBP- right? I'd love to have feedback from the community! PS.: lots of thanks to the SGL community- since i have started reading SGL, my astro malinvestments have gone down to zero (so far). Thanks again!
