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I've finally got around to making my flats box. I decided to go for a cylinder rather than the normal square as I thought it would maximize the amount of reflected light and limit any 'dead' areas. I could also use the Celestrons dust cap retaining pins to lock the flats box onto the 'scope. I purchased some of the craft board that has a thin foam sheet sandwiched between two sheets of thick paper/thin card. In order to bend the card into a cylinder, I creased the board every 20 mm by pressing the edge of a steel ruler into the board. It took two of the sheets to make a cylinder big enough to fit my C9.25, with only a couple of cm trimmed off. I then made a reinforcing ring/defuser holder from two strips of the foam board; this time creasing them at 15mm intervals. I stuck these level to the bottom edge so the joins were 90° to the main cylinder joins. These strips were cut wide enough to ensure that the diffuser cleared the secondary housing. The cylinder was designed to lock into the C9.25s dust cap retaining pins so next I cut two keyways into the bottom outer side. They looked a little weak so I reinforced them with some Christmas chocolate reindeer plastic packaging! Although the foamboard is quite shiny, I wasn't happy with all the grooves, so I lined the inside with white A4 paper. The Perspex sheet was cut to shape and hot glued into place onto the ledge. Next, starting at the top, I notched the edge of the cylinder to run the LED string lights cable through and then started to spiral the LEDs around and down the cylinder. The top cap/reflector was made from two discs of foamboard. One to go inside the cylinder and one to sit proud of the edge. They were glued together before being hot glued onto the top of the cylinder. The LED light string that I bought has an integrated on/off button as well as both up and down brightness buttons with a 3M sticky pad on the back, so I stuck this to the top cap. As I had previously made myself a 'scope mounted power distribution box with aircraft sockets for power, I removed the 3 pin UK plug/ac-dc converter and soldered on an aircraft plug to match my 12 volt DC supply socket. The lightbox illuminated.
I finally took the plunge and ordered myself a Really Useful Box 84ltr, it fits the 8SE including the original packaging, with a little room to spare. I quibbled over the price, RRP is £35, but I managed to get one from Amazon Warehouse deals for £16 (currently they are £18.50 new on Amazon). I had to remove my 9x50 finder scope in order to fit the top half of the packing, but that's OK as it's on a quick-release shoe; the red dot finder prevents the top half of the packing from going fully down, I may make a cut-out to allow this to fit snugly. I had to do a small amount of cutting of the packing to allow for my Baader Steeltrack focuser, which is considerably larger than the original back but still fits inside the Really Useful Box with at least an inch to spare. I will need to pack the side gaps (less than two inches with the packing) but otherwise it should be a nice snug and safe transport box. At last, I feel confident enough to take my precious 8SE out in the car with me! This might also accommodate a 9.25 SCT.
The Jewel Box ( NGC 4755 ) is an open cluster of mostly hot young blue-white stars that appears to the unaided eye as a bright 4th magnitude star close to the Southern Cross. Only visible from southern latitudes, the Jewel Box was first recorded by Nicolas Louis de Lacaille during his visit to South Africa in 1751 and was later described by Sir John Herschel as "a casket of variously coloured precious stones" - hence the name "Jewel Box". The Jewel Box open star cluster ( ngc 4755 ) in Curx ( please click / tap on image to see larger and sharper ) Please see here for image details.
The Jewel Box ( NGC 4755 ) is an open cluster of mostly hot young blue-white stars that appears to the unaided eye as a bright 4th magnitude star close to the Southern Cross. Only visible from southern latitudes, the Jewel Box was first recorded by Nicolas Louis de Lacaille during his visit to South Africa in 1751 and was later described by Sir John Herschel as "a casket of variously coloured precious stones" - hence the name "Jewel Box". The Jewel Box Open Cluster ( ngc 4755 ) in the Crux constellation. ( please click / tap to see larger and sharper ) ........... Image details: Orientation: North is up Telescope: Orion Optics CT12 Newtonian ( mirror 300mm, fl 1200mm, f4 ). Corrector: ASA 2" Coma Corrector Quattro 1.175x. Effective Focal Length / Aperture : 1470mm f4.7 Mount: Skywatcher EQ8 Guiding: TSOAG9 Off-Axis-Guider, Starlight Xpress Lodestar X2, PHD2 Camera: Nikon D5300 (unmodified) (sensor 23.5 x 15.6mm, 6016x4016 3.91um pixels) image Plate Solver script version 5.0 =========== Resolution ........ 0.586 arcsec/px Rotation .......... 0.000 deg Focal ............. 1375.43 mm Pixel size ........ 3.91 um Field of view ..... 58' 49.3" x 39' 17.8" Image center ...... RA: 12 53 40.040 Dec: -60 21 02.81 ========== Location: Blue Mountains, Australia Moderate light pollution ( pale green zone on darksitefinder.com map ) Capture ( 5 May 2018 ): 11 sets of sub-images with exposure duration for each set doubling ( 1/8th sec to 120 sec ) all at ISO250. ( 10 x 120sec + at least 10 each forthe other durations ) Processing: Calibration: master bias, master flat and master dark Integration in 11sets HDR combination
Hi All. After looking for, and failing to find, a 12v splitter that can do more than 10A, I've decided to build my own. But, I have a couple of questions about fusing things. The box has 3 marine-type locking cigar sockets. The internals are wired with 15A rated components (am thinking max load of 5A on 3 sockets = max 15A). The box will be connected to either an XM21X DC supply when at home, or an old car battery when out and about. Each cigar plug will have a fuse in it suited to the appliance (I note my HEQ5 Pro cigar plug, as supplied, has a 5A fuse - off topic but is that right?). The cable from the supply to the splitter is orange mower flex, rated at 13A. The dilemma I have is what rating of fuse to put at the supply end of the cable - 13A would match the cable rating and the box, but is too high for what the XM21X can deliver. So do I make a second cable fused at say 7A for the XM21X? Ultimately I might make a battery box to hold the battery and the 3 sockets (plus...) but not yet. Thanks!