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Found 55 results

  1. As i would like to give it a try with a color camera and therefore need the funds i am selling my Mono camera setup. All come in original boxes in excellent working condition, filters have been in the filter wheel since i bought them. Atik 383l+ Mono boxed with all extras £900 Astrodon Ha 3nm 36mm boxed £620 SOLD Astrodon Oiii 3nm 36mm boxed £620 SOLD Astrodon Lum 36mm boxed £180 SOLD I will be happy to send any photos to someone who is interested. Payment via Paypal in Uk Pounds or Euros (buyer will pays the fees if any) Safe and Secured shipping with tracking number. Postage expenses by me. Many thanks NikolasP.
  2. A few months back, i bought my first mono camera, an Atik 383l+ from Martin @Xsubmariner off here. I hadn't had a chance to give it a whirl until last night. I thought about getting the 80ED out, but i've been wanting to do some widefield stuff for a while, so i attached an old Tamron 135mm F2.8 vintage M42 lens i picked up last year for next to nothing. The lens needs to be stopped down to F5.6 (perhaps less, i haven't tested though) to produce acceptable stars in broadband, but i was hoping it could be used more wide open for Narrowband. I used step-down rings screwed on to the end of the lens hood to bring the aperture down to 37mm, which is about F3.65 (i did briefly try it wide open in Ha, and it wasn't that bad tbh, but i could still make out some comet-shaped stars in a few places so i opted to stop it down a bit to play it safe). I have a TS Optics filter drawer in the optical train, so i can still swap out filters without too much fuss. I still have about 3-4mm of extra backfocus space to spare, but i can already find focus as it is, so i'm not sure if it's that important that i haven't fully used it all up. Focusing was tough. I was focusing using a Bahtinov mask on Deneb, and i had to use 10s subs (subframes) at 2x2 bin to get bright enough spikes for Bahtinov Grabber to pick up to the spikes ok. Even then, it was showing the focus error moving about quite a bit, even without me touching the focus ring. In the end i just got it as close as i could and went with it. Conditions were not great. Some clear spells, but there was a lot of cloud passing through. I figures it would be good enough for a test session. The Phd guide graph looked horrific, and was somewhere in the 1-2" range (image scale is 8.4" so not a big deal hopefully). I bodged together a couple of old dovetails to add enough weight to counter-balance the 5Kg counterweight. It just about does. It's not perfect by any means, but hopefully sufficient for this purpose. I would ideally like to shoot 1200s subs, but couldn't last night due to the constant clouds (Phd lost the guide star countless times). I was about to give up, but persisted and aimed for 600s subs. Glad i did, as i ended up with 6 useable subs, even if a couple were affected by some thin cloud. Did a quick stack in APP and a 10 min process in PS, just to get a rough idea of what i can expect from this. I used Flats and a couple of Darks just to do a rough calibration. Didn't do any gradient reduction, was in too much of a hurry after packing up last night. Overall i'm fairly pleased with how it performed. I'm obviously not aiming for Samyang 135mm F2 levels of performance here, but for purely NB bi-colour mosaics i think it can do a job. I've included a picture of the rig below as well, in case anyone's interested. CS. 6 x 600s (1 Hr) Atik 383l+ 2" Baader Ha 7nm Tamron Adaptall2 135mm F2.8 (@F3.65)
  3. From the album: 2015 Various

    recently found a cheap 16ic mono - a little old and kernakkered but does the job :) A stack of 7 or 8 subs of 300s 400s and 500s (kept increasing exposure length once good tracking had been established)
  4. Hi Guys, this is my first post so would like to say what a great resource this has been over the years. Any problem I've ever had the answer has been here. Until now. Just wondering is anyone else having a problem with horizontal banding on the Atik Horizon. My high gain subs have terrible lines across them which is made worse by stacking. The lines are also present in low gain subs when stacked. See attached pic of 1 300s high gain image. Hopefully it's just my camera and not a feature of the product. I realise this can be a CMOS issue but surely Atik haven't released a product with this problem? Certainly not at this price?
  5. Hello! I have enjoyed running a triple rig for quite some years now but I'm downscaling to one OTA. That leaves two cameras and filter wheels for sale. Atik EFW2 9 position 1.25" - €350 Atik 460EXm - €1500 NOW SOLD /Jesper
  6. Hello everyone! I have recently been looking into deep-sky imaging, and related equipment. My telescope is a SW200p, and I already have an unmodded Canon EOS 1100D, but I've been thinking about moving into the world of CCD deep-sky imaging. My budget is approx. £500, and at that budget, the best I could get in terms of deep-sky CCDs is the Atik Titan (Mono). However, I was wondering whether I would get any major improvements over my DSLR, and whether it'd be the best use for my money. Here is what I know... Pros: Mono camera has capability of being used for luminance, and can use a variety of filters, as is not limited by RGB colours.I already have a filter wheel, so that is not a problem.Cooled CCD means less noiseLooks like it's a good option for fainter planets, with high sensitivity, and the potential for moderately high frameratesMore sensitive than most DSLRsCons: Much smaller number of pixels (and FOV width) than a DSLR - would need a very large mosaic for an object like M42Expensive!!Also, I couldn't help but compare it to the next models up, which happen to be twice the price (the 420L seems to be the next one up - £800!!). Would it be dramatically better to save up until next Christmas to buy something so expensive?! Any advice would be really welcomed! David
  7. Managed first light for the new AtikOne last night. Focusing the GP was easy but the moon was washing out the fainter stars... Single 300s exposure binned on my RC8. Pleased as punch for a single test shot Now to fine tune the guiding and polar alignment!
  8. Lots of 'firsts' for me on this one:- first time with the Atik 460EX first time with a dedicated astro CCD first time with a mono CCD first time processing LRGB .......I started astro in 2011, using DSLR's & for the first 8 months, just camera lenses. I tell you all this so you don't judge the camera too harshly due to its inexperienced operator ;-) Imaged with an f9 refractor L: 4x300s+2x600s RGB: 4x300s Dark Frames: none Flat Lights: 12x0.5s (I think!) via each filter Stacked in DSS, post processed in PS CS5. I've only cropped the very edge to remove the registration marks, so this is pretty much the field of view I got & the resolution - albeit, I've saved in jpg to upload here. I am content with the processing on the nebula, I'm sure someone with better skills can do a superior job, but for me I was happy enough with it, BUT I have some kind of optical defect which is giving horrible spikes to the larger brighter stars. If anyone can advise how to best process these out, or point me to a tutorial or PS plugin that would be great - I don't feel like doing it one star at a time manually. I'll be investigating the cause of these spikes, but the optics are old & contaminated, so that maybe the cause, I just have not been brave enough to remove the lens cell to give it a good clean.
  9. Looking good for an alpha release on friday.. http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/192900-atik-osx-drivers-r100-example-app/page-6
  10. From the album: DSO, Nebula, Galaxies, Comets etc

    M81 Bode's Galaxy in the constellation of Ursa Major imaged 09.02.2018 William Optics FLT-110 and Atik 314L monochrome CCD A total of 135 x 60 second exposures stacked in Deep Sky Stacker and processed in Photoshop CS2

    © vicky050373

  11. From the album: DSO, Nebula, Galaxies, Comets etc

    M27 The Dumbbell Nebula in Vulpecula Imaged on 17.09.2016 using Skywatcher Equinox 80 ED Pro and Atik 16IC-S monochrome CCD camera 8 x 300 second and 8 x 420 second exposures stacked in Deep Sky Stacker and cropped with light processing in PS Elements 11

    © vicky050373

  12. Vicky050373

    M13 30-04-2016

    From the album: DSO, Nebula, Galaxies, Comets etc

    M13, also designated NGC 6205 and sometimes called the Great Globular Cluster in Hercules or the Hercules Globular Cluster, is a globular cluster of about 300,000 stars in the constellation of Hercules. Imaged using Atik 16IC-S monochrome CCD and William Optics FLT-110 mounted on NEQ6 Pro. 30 light frames ranging from 60 seconds to 600 seconds, no darks. Stacked in DeepSkyStacker, using the best 80% of frames and processed in Photoshop CS2

    © vicky050373

  13. From the album: DSO, Nebula, Galaxies, Comets etc

    NGC891(C23) 28.11.2016 Using Atik 16IC-S monochrome CCD camera on Skywatcher Equinox 80 ED on HEQ5 Pro SynScan mount A total of 5 x 5 minute and 9 x 10 minute light frames - no filters Stacked in Deep Sky Stacker and processed in Photoshop Elements 11 NGC891 (C23) is an edge-on unbarred spiral galaxy in the constellation of Andromeda, and is estimated to be at a distance of 31 million light years. it is a massive galaxy measuring about 110,000 light years in diameter and has a mass of about 150 billion suns. This beautiful galaxy is seen almost perfectly from it's side from our perspective.

    © vicky050373

  14. After searching several days I have found a way of controlling my mount using OSX software - would just like to say great effort and a big thank you from the developer of this, works perfectly with my EQMOD sub lead. Just downloading the latest drivers for my Canon 450d and everything seems to work. Would just like to ask are Atik CCD's supported by anyone, heard of a great initiative called the AOSX which encourages Astro software to be developed for the macs. Long may it continue and great effort by people involved.
  15. Anyone have an Atik 314L+ Mono in good nick that s/he'd like to shift?
  16. I obtained my first telescope (ED80DS Pro with NEQ6) in October 2016 and experimented with some success with an unmodified 70D, slowly getting to grips with EQ-suite, CdC, DeepSkyStacker and BackyardEoS whilst taking a large number of varying quality images of M31, M33 and M42. In November I bought an Atik 414ex osc and have been on a real journey of discovery. Having finally got to grips with PHD guiding, Sequence Generator Pro and dithering, and spent hours experimenting with Photoshop and various pieces of trial image processing software here is my first result that I feel reasonably satisfied with. To the expert eye I am sure it has a wealth of shortcomings so any constructive comments would be very much appreciated. The image comprises 62x120s high-dither lights with fifty darks, flats and bias frames (all at -10 degrees C), and what feels like 2x62 hours of time spent processing! I will take this opportunity to thank so many on this forum who have unknowingly helped me make progress over the past four months. I have read many, many posts on a vast range of topics and learnt more than my brain could cope with. Thank you to all for sharing so much. Equipment: ED80DS Pro with 0.85 f/r, focussing unit and USB interface, NEQ6, IR/UV filter, Atik 414ex osc Software: Sequence Generator Pro, Cdc, EQ Suite, DeepSkyStacker, Photoshop CS6
  17. I've had continual problems with reflections in my flats. I have an Atik 383L, an Atik EFW2, and I use 36mm unmounted Baader filters. It seems that when using the camera and wheel 'as intended' I get reflections. I see these especially in my flats, but I think they are there in the images too. They do not calibrate out - I am left with lines in my images and I either have to crop them heavily or use blunderbuss processing techniques, which inevitably leads to some degradation in image quality (and my images are already quite degraded enough). I have posted about this problem before: https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/260450-horizontal-lines-in-flats/ and https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/269119-does-atik-efw2-work-with-atik-383l/ There is a solution, but it is not ideal. I thought that I would provide an update as to my progress and post my solution. If anyone has any other ideas I would consider trying them out. I am struggling to believe that I am the only person having this problem. First off, here is the issue - it appears to me to be a reflection of either the optical window edges or the sensor itself (I've pushed the contrast a bit to make the issue obvious in a reduced size JPEG): The issue is most obvious in the NB filters, but it is there in the RGB too - perhaps worse in the blue filter. I have tried the set up on 4 separate scopes - 3 x refractors and 1 x SCT - there is no difference I have tried two different 383L cameras - they both cause this problem I have tried 2 different sets of Baader LRGB filters (thanks to FLO for supplying the second set) and a set of Baader NBs - no difference I have tried reversing the orientation of the filters in the carousel (suggested by the chap from Baader) - no difference I have tried a different filter - a Chroma Green kindly supplied by Bern at Modern Astronomy - no difference (indeed maybe the reflections were a little more obvious - I've posted the Chroma version) I have tried 3 different methods of taking flats: an LED panel; a Gerd Neumann EL panel; and sky flats with a pillowcase I had one camera back to Atik who tried blackening the optical window edges. The chap from Baader also suggested putting a spacer between the camera and the wheel. This started to work. As I added spacers, the lines moved to the outside of the frame. Eventually they went away altogether. I was able to lose the lines at 7mm of spacing on one 383L. I needed 7.5mm of spacing with the other. The spacing does not seem to make the vignetting any significantly worse, so this is a 'fix'. On the other hand if you are considering using an OAG, then being forced to add that 7.5mm could be significant. Am I really the only one having this problem?
  18. As someone has shown - FFT provides a quick and fast way of doing a linear registration. In my case this unoptimised version (both code and algorithm) uses the Graphics Processing Unit (GPU) rather than the CPU to register in rotation and translation to give ~17FPS. Actually it's registering an LRGB image here but all white scaled.. so optimised I think this will get to 60fps.. The CPU version of this does.. 4 seconds to a 22MB frame.. Nothing says it better than a video.. Once I have a lens on the camera it will be more sensitive. The camera is bare with just the sensor pointing to the screen.. but it still managed to pick up the movement light caused by my hand.. You can see the text going. in the back ground - they're the frames.. I can add some more processing and optimise but for today.. here it is Once things have settled down.. I hope to get a day of solar to test this further. My optimised original CPU version here, aligning 383L images (17.1MB): Old drivers, old ExampleApp.. before the OpenGL update too!
  19. Well, I've not posted an image for so long, I had to get my access card re-validated to even get in here!! Inspired by Peter Shah's STONKING image, I've started my own project. Here is the first batch of Ha data: Scope: ED80 + Skywatcher 0.85 f/r Camera: Atik One 6.0 Filter: Baader 7nm Ha Mount: Skywatcher EQ6 Software: SGP for acquisition, PHD2 for guiding, Pixinsight for processing Subs: 20 * 900 seconds Processing consisted of flat/dark/bias calibration, histogram stretch, dbe, acdnr and a gentle de-convolution. I had to re-learn PI so this is by no means a finished article!
  20. Almost two months have passed since the alpha 3 release and I've been working behind the scenes on the next driver release.. Beta time! Example Application (standalone) This is a complete, standalone, just use application for your Mac. You'll not need to download or install any drivers - these are already baked into the app. Please note, as the application is not digitally signed, this means OSX will complain if you have not allowed applications you've not downloaded from the Apple store. To resolve this goto System Preferences > Security & Privacy and on the General Tab select the "Anywhere" option from the "Allow applications downloaded from" section - you will need to unlock using the padlock to change this. You may have seen the Alpha3 app - youtube but I've recorded my dulcet tones once again as I use the latest release: http://youtu.be/cmQcx-HuDgI Download the example app here: ExampleApplication.zip With the app, you can use your ATIK camera(s) and EFW2 filter wheel If you have a legacy USB 1.1 camera - please see the additional post below on how to add the FTDI chip id to the application.
  21. Aenima

    ngc7000red ha -

    From the album: CCD venture

    A h-alpha shot of the Wall section of NGC7000 aka north america nebula. ED80 - ATK16HR - Ha clip filter - EQ6 - finderguider 9x50mm PhD2 - photoshop - DSS.

    © 2016JayBird

  22. From the album: DSO, Nebula, Galaxies, Comets etc

    Reprocessed image Atik 314L and Skywatcher Equinox 80 ED H-alpha 10 x 300 seconds and 15 x 600 seconds with some dark and bias frames Stacked in Deep Sky Stacker and processed in PhotoShop CS2

    © vicky050373

  23. From the album: DSO, Nebula, Galaxies, Comets etc

    The Horsehead Nebula 02.01.2017 Atik 314L and Skywatcher Equinox 80 ED H-alpha 10 x 300 seconds and 15 x 600 seconds with some dark and bias frames Stacked in Deep Sky Stacker and processed in PhotoShop CS2

    © vicky050373

  24. Taken on Sunday evening with a 98% Moon. Comprising of 12 x 600s subs using an ED80 with a 0.85x FF, an Atik 383L+ and a 7nm Optolong Filter. Stacked in DSS, and processed in PS. Full frame and cropped, mono and h-alpha colour using NC Actions. Thanks for looking Adam.
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