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Found 6 results

  1. Hi, I've tried to research this, but really struggled because of the amount of choice available in that area. We're looking for a really good tripod to use for imaging with a Canon 5D mark iv, Skywatcher Adventurer and a series of DSLR lenses from 12mm to 200mm focal length. We might be tempted going for a heavier scope later on depending on the success we get with our current equipment, so it's worth bearing that in mind regarding upgradability. We are going to travel to Abisko by plane and we are going to carry the kit around while trekking (hence the Adventurer rather than a full size mount), so weight is important but we're not necessarily looking for the lightest tripod: something around 10kg or more would definitely be too heavy, but something around 3kg would still be acceptable, although lighter is better. However stability is really the most important feature we're looking for. Subjectively, I'm quite keen on a spread stopper because I think it would make the structure more sturdy, but if a tripod is renowned for being stiff and sturdy without a spread stopper, then that's probably good enough. I'm also quite keen on being able to fit a levelling bowl such as Manfrotto 500BALL 100mm Bowl with Knob in order to be able to use a large round spirit level for easier and more accurate levelling, as I want the polar alignment to be as good as possible in order to attempt imaging with lenses of 200mm and maybe a little bit more. Because of this and in order to minimise flex, I would prefer a tripod that can house a levelling bowl directly instead of a standard tripod with a central column to which a levelling head would have to be attached. The logic I have there is that I think it makes sense to minimise the number elements and connections as they introduce flex. Budget wise, we're not made of money but we'll get what we need to get: we don't want the tripod to be the weakest link. While we're at it, advice on a good tripod head (between the Adventurer and camera, e.g. for time lapses) would also be appreciated. I've read that a geared head was probably the best option there (again, we favour stability over anything else). Thanks in advance
  2. I am selling my Star Adventurer Pro bundle. The full set is packed in a flight case ready to go. It also includes an extra counterweight pack (an extra 1kg weight and extension bar). I use the additional weight for balancing an ED80 or my Lunt Ha scope. It has seen very limited use so is in excellent condition. I am asking £169 (no offers) pick up from the Harrogate area. The bundle weighs close to 8kg. Bank transfer please. In the flight case: Instruction manual SA mount Ball head adapter Illuminated polar scope Dovetail L bracket Equatorial wedge Counterweight kit x 2 (2 x 1kg) Keys for the flight case
  3. Hi All, I realise that I could use a Polaris Finder app to do this, but I am having difficulty following the instructions to align Polaris in the SW Polarscope. Page 23 of the manual: "4. Adjust the date graduation circle first according to difference between the standard time meridian of your region and the observing site. For example, if you are in Prince Rupert, Canada which is 130 degrees West, then you have to turn the Date Graduation Circle to make the Time Meridian Indicator point to West 10 (which is 130 degrees - 120 degrees)". What does that mean? I see where they get the 130 from, it's the latitude of Prince Rupert, but what is the 120? (Thinks: 3 x 120 = 360). My location (Cardiff UK) is 3 degrees West of Greenwich, i.e -3, so where do I set the Time Meridian Indicator to? So far, when I try this, I end up with the polaris indicator 180 degrees out. (Hmmm, 180 degrees, could be significant). Any thoughts etc., Neil.
  4. Hi can any one assist My lovely wife purchased me the full SW Adventurer package as I requested I wanted a grab and go to use with my modded Dslr when travelling All great!! have set up and have got a few widefield shots over last few days. As with DSLR colour mottle is a big problem and having used dithering with my GT81 and 460EX and with a lot of the DSLR processing tutorial advising extreme dither I thought I'd have a go. The mount has a ST4 interface and the manual suggests that any auto guider should work. So in brief I have usb powered hub which is powering the SW Adventurer, I have both the camera and QHYII guide scope (Altair Astro 60 guide scope) dual mounted. The Canon D1100 and QHYII are connected to USB hub and in turn this feeds back by active USB to laptop. I have the ST4 cable connected to the QHYII and mount. PHD2 can find the QHYII but its asking for a mount ( normal It would be my AZNEQ6) BYO is used for software capture for the Canon ( this has a PHD dither setting ) which when a test signal is sent connects but PHD2 (latest version) PHD starts calibrations but seems stuck in clearing backlash I know the SW Adventurer only has RA and no DEC but if it can auto guide I'm hoping it can dither as well. If anyone can advise settings in PHD2 or if this can be done I would be gratefully as I would like to use this great little mount as much as possible as it was a Xmas gift and I wont hear the last of it if I pack it away Thanks Allan
  5. Please contact if you have or know of this tracker for sale. https://www.firstlightoptics.com/skywatcher-mounts/skywatcher-star-adventurer-astronomy-bundle.html Thanks. Paul
  6. Hi, Has anyone else in th UK bought one of these? Have you received the 1kg counterweight yet? They were due mid August, I've still not received mine. Cheers, Neil
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