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Found 6 results

  1. Dear all, After tinkering around several nights, i finally got around getting the Orion starshoot Autoguider (also called SSAG) into focus using a small 50mm guidescope. I want to share the info as i have received a ton of great advice from SGL users, and maybe there's a noob like me out there with the same problem? The biggest problem for me was that i expected the combination of the 50mm guidescope and the SSAG to be balanced to each other... but they are not. In other words, if you completey insert the SSAG into the guidescope, you will not be able to achieve focus. The distance between the foremost frontend of the guidscope to the back end of the SSAG should be around 21.8 cm. If you take a look at the photo below, you can see that the SSAG is not completely inserted into the guidescope; in my case, there is a space of 1.25 cm between the SSAG and the inmost position and about the frontend of the scope is about 0.3cm screwed out. These positions should get you very close to the optimal focus position. Getting the driver and installing PHD2 is straight forward. I suggest setting camera gain to 95, and exposure to auto. For final focusing, fire up PHD2 and select a star- PHD2 will show you the SNR (signal to noise ratio- the higher it is, the better). The do quarter turns of the scope's front lens, always checking the SNR after each turn, repeating the process until you reach the point of maximum SNR. Congratulations- you are on focus! To make all this more repeatable, you could get T2 adapters and adjustment rings so that you need no guessing around where the focus point is. That is left as an exercise to the reader
  2. i got the nifty fifty for christmas and hurried outside to see an almost perfect clear sky in Oslo. I set the camera to 8sec exposure, f/2.5 and iso 800. I then took a couple of shots on cassiopeia, andromeda, triangulum, pleiades and orion. Pleiades and orion was a waste to process. because it was too low in the sky, the light-pollution was too noticeable in the picture. Another thing i found out with the lens was that you can't set it to f/1.8. In pictures, the brightest stars get blue/purple. so for example in my shot of orion and pleiades, the stars was too purple/blue. After seeing the result of the pictures, i am really excited to use the lens even more in the future at a dark sky. Clear skies!! Victor Boesen
  3. So I am currently at my grandma and grandpas, and they live in an area where the milky way is clearly visible at moonless nights. I took advantage of this the other day as the sky was clear, so I get my telescope, binocular and camera outside at dusk. My main goal was to try out my 50mm f/1.8 lens for the first time under darks skies, but i also wanted to try out my bins(naturesport 10X50 wa). I shot a couple of test frames all over the sky to check out what I should focus on. As I took a frame of the handle of the big dipper, I tried zooming in at the area where i knew m51 would be placed. Even tho I didn't expect anything as the moon was full, I noticed a slight glow from the galaxy. This made me really excited as I wasn't expecting to capture it with a 50mm lens. I checked the area where m101 was located, and wow! I could also see this galaxy! Because of all of this, I continued shooting frames at this target, so in the end, I had 75 frames of 6 seconds each, f/3.2 and iso 800 taken with a nikon d3300. processed in deep sky stacker and adobe lightroom cc 2017. Any feedback is appreciated! clear skies! Victor Boesen
  4. swlloyd3

    TWOFinal

    From the album: Ha - Widefield

    A re-edit of the original shot. Additonal 8x10minutes added to the image. All of the same settings used for this one.

    © stephen lloyd 2014

  5. From the album: Ha - Widefield

    A shot of the Cygnus area at 50mm in Ha

    © Stephen Lloyd 2014

  6. Sunshine from 50mm telescope i still could do with lowering that exposure. or brightness. Still image extracted from a avi recording using Virtual dub. Video link below [media=]http://youtu.be/NsDsqlJ8A6M
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