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Found 14 results

  1. Back from a break A productive evening was the 22 November. I have a strange field of view at home, so along session means I get data on several targets, and at this time of year I often can't revisit for more data. This means these images need to be seen as 'works in progress' that will need more subs adding in the future. Also, I've used Jpegs because my broadband is playing up some of the subtleties are lost (he claimed!) All Baader narrowband filters, except the Plieades, ZWO RGB. 130P-DS, ASI1600MM-pro and HEQ5 The Tadpoles NGC1983 in Hubble Palette: The California Nebula HSO, with the S from an evening a few weeks later. No Oiii under my skies. The FOV is a bit limiting with this setup: Which do you prefer? Pacman in Hubble (SHO) and HSO, in contrast these are crops from a larger frame: Finally, the Pleiades in RGB, knocked off at the end of along evening so just 75-second subs and not very deep: All in all, a worthwhile evening, even if my Witch Head was a complete fail and these do need more data next year
  2. Hello all, TL;DR: are there any cheap ways, including secondhand, of mounting a 130P-DS for not-completely-terrible results? I am looking to buy a telescope as a gift for a family member. I had in mind a budget of around £150-£200, and from looking at advice had almost settled on the Sky-Watcher Explorer 130P. But then I realised that there's a good chance that if they get into astronomy there's a good chance that my relative will want to do some photography, and would probably be interested in attaching their micro four thirds camera. I've learnt that the 130P is not great for this as you cannot get prime focus, so you need to look at the Sky-Watcher Explorer 130P-DS instead. Great, I thought! It's a bit cheaper, but it isn't available in a kit with any form of mount. OK, I'll need to get one of those too... Then I started looking at mounts. Oh my, those things crash through the top of my budget! Even the EQ2 mount on its own, when you can find it, is about £115. https://www.bristolcameras.co.uk/p-skywatcher-eq-2-equatorial-mount-aluminium-tripod.htm (Given that you can get the spherical version of the Sky-Watcher 130 on that mount for £155 from FLO, that seems to value the OTA part at somewhere around the £40 mark.) So, I'm after advice on whether there is an affordable way of doing this. I've read enough on this forum and other sites around the web to know that the main recommendation is that the heavier duty the better. Something like an EQ3 or upwards. And that for AP a lot of people seem to view an HEQ5 as a starting point. But since I can't stretch to that, I'm OK with leaving it as an upgrade path for my relative if that's the way they want to go (or option for future gifts!). I know that for next-to-no budget I'm not going to be able to give something that will get the best out of the telescope. I know that getting motors and whatnot to do the guiding that will make DSO photography possible is way out of the realms of possibility. What I'm hoping for is some sort of option that gives acceptable results. Usable rather than unusable. Limiting the results rather than destroying them! Getting this set up so that they can do reasonable observation at first, and maybe give a try at attaching their m4/3 camera to try photographing the moon. If that whets their appetite then mount upgrades can be possible later. Since I'm planning on a new OTA, I'd be happy with going secondhand for the mount. I've been trawling ebay, and see the odd thing like this come up: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Telescope-On-Tripod-Stand-Model-900114-Spares-N-Repairs/124230022581?hash=item1cecafb5b5:g:Ay8AAOSwSz1e7OCu To my untrained eye, it looks like there's an EQ2 mount on that, so I'm wondering whether that would do the trick. (Working on the, possibly faulty, assumption that if EQ2 is viewed by Sky-Watcher as being sturdy enough to supply as the kit mount for the 130 and 130P, it's probably up to scratch for observing with the 130P-DS too.) Even that, at another £58 inc postage for the buy it now would be over my budget, but I'm wondering more generally whether trying to grab something like that to essentially discard the tube would even be feasible as an option if I can get one at the right price. Or, of course, I'm open to any other ideas and suggestions that the forum might have. Thanks in advance, and clear skies.
  3. 34 2-minute subs, no darks. Exif says 6c so the sensor was probably somewhere between -15 and -20C! Begging for a few more hours!
  4. This is my ISO1600 data from 2016 (31 60s subs) plus new ISO800 data (32 120s subs) from last night.
  5. Last night was one of those unexpected clear nights; I had assumed the scattered cloud would spoil everything - in fact I lost ten or a dozen subs once or twice, but the mist was concentrated into the cloud and in between it was nice and clear and steady and despite the LP at home things went quite well. Let's see what did we get? First, 20 minutes on M15, just to wait while my real targets rose a bit higher. I like this because you can make out isolated blue and yellow stars in the gobular. Next, the nebulosity around Gamma Cassiopeia, just 34 minutes as about ten subs were lost to cloud. Really a test as my last attempt on this one didn't show any nebulosity: Sixty-nine minutes on the Wizard Nebula. It must be bright as it was clearly visible on each sub using the preview screen. I was going to do two hours but didn't allow for a branch 40-feet overhead: One target I keep struggling with is M33, the Triangulum Galaxy. I got two hours of data and also used half an hour from three weeks ago. It didn't show up in the previews so the framing is a bit off: Finally, the Plieades, 46 minutes before the sky started to lighten, plus about twenty from earlier in the month. No doubt I will revisit these several times, but it was a much more productive session than my last dark sky attempt.
  6. Please help!! As said in the title I know that this question gets asked a lot of times. I want to know what to do. My confirmation(don't know if that's what you call it in English) is in 59 days, and I need some help whether to wish me one thing or another. What am i looking for?: I want to get into "serious" astrophotography, however I still don't want to stop doing visual. I have a scope now that needs to get swapped out(bresser 150/1400, poor quality) but I don't have the money to have both a scope for astrophotography and visual. I was thinking about the star adventurer mount(I have a nikon d3300+kit lens and 50mm 1.8+a sturdy video-tripod) because of its easy setup and portability. Then I could put a skywatcher dobsonian on my list as well to get a better visual scope. I think that this would be a good way to start, but I am 14 years old and I don't have the money to buy equipment all the time. So the problem in my case would be that I wouldn't be able to afford a real mount and scope for astrophotography right after I get the star adventurer and a dobsonian unless I save up money for a long time and get broke right after buying the equipment. This leads me into my next "solution". Then I was thinking about selling my visual scope and putting the eq5 pro on the list instead. Then I don't know whether to chose the 130p-ds, 150p-ds or the evostar 80ed to go with the eq5 pro. I am really blown away by the quality and images by the evostar 80ed, and I think that it's a really good beginner astrophotography scope. Or is it? It costs a lot more than the 130p/150p-ds does, and the reflectors would also be a better visual scope wouldn't they? of course I still want to have a visual and an imaging scope, but if I chose one of the reflectors then I guess I wouldn't need both right now, would I? I want to make the right choice both mount and scope, and if the evostar 80ed+eq5 pro is the best choice then according to you, then I would just have to buy a dobsonian as well(which wouldn't be that big of a deal if just the evostar 80ed+eq5 pro is the best choice). Hope that you want to spend some time reading this, and feel free to ask me about anything! Victor Boesen
  7. I'm starting up this thread with the aim of completing my first image of the Orion nebula [M42]. I will be building upon the image as the thread progresses, hopefully some of you will follow the progress and offer your suggestions and expertise as I go Background information I have been allocated some wall space for some pictures, albeit in the downstairs loo. We all got to start somewhere though right? Now that isn't as bad as it seems, every guest that comes to our house usually finds themselves in that room at some point so I'm maximizing the viewing potential at least... My partner has also granted me permission to purchase a CCD camera to help me improve on my 'good work so far' All of these things have led me to be a bit more focused on what I want to achieve. Usually I set my equipment up and then flirt between different targets during the night. It has become apparent that I need a single target to expend my efforts onto and I decided that the oft imaged Orion Nebula should be my choice. I don't have a lot of DSO imaging experience having finally acquired enough gear in July. Planning stage The plan so far is going to be gathering data with my newly modified 450D and 130P-DS. A CCD will surely arrive at some point but that decision requires far more research and decision making before I take the plunge and part with some ££. Last Friday I managed to get 40 minutes or so practice time on the target during a break in cloud. The modified 450D is so much more sensitive than my normal 1100D, it really surprised me. My usual 10 minute subs were Destroyed by light pollution. I'm able to guide up to at least 15 minutes so its a shame that I don't live in a dark site. Whilst my other half will stretch to a CCD, I don't think a house move is quite on the table (yet ). I decreased the exposure time down to 6 minutes and got something a lot more manageable. I could only complete four of these subs before cloud forced me to pack up so I didn't run any dark calibration frames. I Stacked the four images in DSS and I can see some potential already: My initial aim is to complete two stages for the image At least one hour of short exposures for the core. I'm unsure on whether this will be 60 or 120 seconds at ISO 400 or 800 (any suggestions?) At least two hours of long exposures for the surrounding nebula (20x6 Minute exposures at ISO 800 which I think is going to be my max with the light pollution I have around.)My setup for the start at least will be: Scope: 130P-DS Camera: Modified 450D Filter: SW light pollution filter Mount: HEQ5 Finder Guidecam: QHY5L-iic Lastly, I was unsure of where to place this thread so feel free to move it if you deem another area more suitable. Hints, tips and criticism is always welcome Regards, Rob
  8. Quite like this! Easier to process than the Heart and Soul!
  9. Ladies and Gentlemen, With the assistance of my good friend 130P-DS, I offer you this as proof that the NEQ3-2 Mount can be used for astrophotography. What DSS says are the best 80% of 87 60-second subs (proving you can get plenty of usable decent-length subs with the EQ3) at ISO 1600, astro-modded Canon 450D. Also my first use of a £10 light pollution filter off eBay and the first image I haven't had to do ANY gradient correction on at all. (Can you tell I'm chuffed - even so I know it's not perfect, I expect to keep coming back to this and reprocessing it for a month or more and constructive advice more than welcome).
  10. What a difference a dark sky makes! I knew I could get the blue as well as the red bits out of the Veil but a dark sky and reasonably cool night have let me get an image with rich nebula colours and nice stars too:
  11. They said it couldn't be done! I won't pretend this is perfect but it's 90% of 106 2 minute subs on as astro-modded Canon 450D DSLR using an EQ3 mount at a suburban location, and the transparency last night was poorer than the previous evening. NGC133 and its dust clouds are NOT supposed to be the sort of target you can get with this kit. I know it isn't perfect and doesn't stand up to images with double-figure hours of narrowband subs, but it does have the dusty bits in the right places if compared to Olly's recent image. If I had 20 hours of subs at a dark sky site what would this image be looking like?
  12. My apologies for the noise on this image, my excuse is that this is 80% only 31 frames (120 secs, 800iso, 130P-DS) taken with the moon up and haze increasing before a complete white-out of cloud this evening. My first session for exactly two months! Rotten shame about the noise along the bottom (I think my mirror is the cause and has to go now!) as otherwise it would be almost passable.
  13. Morning all, I managed to get my guiding sorted on my rig last night and had zero throwaway subs on five minute exposures. Hopefully the graph watching addiction that is associated with this will subside? Having achieved this personal milestone I think I should celebrate by moving on to my next project. My rig is currently a HEQ5, 130P-DS, Canon DSLR and a finder guider. I’m thinking to make the most of my limited imaging time it would be useful to run two imaging rigs at the same time. I have a second Canon DSLR already so was contemplating grabbing another 130P-DS and dual mounting them on my HEQ5. Has anyone done this before that could offer advice? Is this a crazy idea that wouldn’t work? Would it be too much for the HEQ5 to handle/image with? Any advice is appreciated as its not something I have done before!
  14. Woke up for a 2AM moon mosaic. It was cloudy with a few drops of rain when I first looked out, but I gave it 30 minutes as all the weather apps were showing a clear break and low and behold, the clouds parted for an hour for me to do my stuff. First mosaic with the 130P-DS and it was lots quicker than doing it with my 200p due to the decrease in magnification. Taken with a 130P-DS, HEQ5, QHY5l-iiC. Approx 11 panes in this image of varying qualities.
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