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Found 14 results

  1. Low shutter count. Have used this camera only twice. Once for andromeda and then for lunar eclipse. Will supply with 2 or prob 3 batteries, whatever i have and charger £200 pp extra
  2. Hi all I'm taking my next huge step after years of visual observing thru my wee etx 80. I am delving into astrophotography. However I have hit a snag in my research, I am wondering what type of dslr mod is required? I seem to find different mods at different prices. I have just purchased a EQ6 Pro mount and ordered a Orion ED80T CF which is a triple APO , i will be ordering a guidescooe and cam shortly. I have DIYd a 120Ah leisure battery pack consisting of 6 x car charger plugs and 4 × USB. Im an electrician, so it shouldn't blow.... The camera i am planning on buying is a 600d, is this a decent dslr? And as above, what modding does it require? Ill probs buy one used off one of the sites that sell them pre modded. The camera wont be used for daylight photography. Is it worth modding a dslr? Or should i just buy a starshoot G3 or similar priced colour CCD. I will be taking most of my images from the UK dark site at Ennerdale Cumbria as I live about 5 miles away. Hope you guys can help Rob
  3. Hi all, here's the first light from my new modded 1100D: Rosette Nebula by glowingturnip, on Flickr 21x 300s lights at ISO1600, darks, flats and bias, equipment as per sig, Pixinsight processing To say that I'm pleased with this camera would be a total understatement - it's soooo so much better than my old Nikon D80. No amp glow and much less noise and a wonderfully clean master dark, so much easier to process ! And that's before all that lovely Ha goodness too. APT worked very well with it, respect to Ivo, and license duly paid for As for the typo - this wasn't actually supposed to be the Rosette Nebula at all - I was going for the cone nebula and xmas tree cluster, NGC 2264, but made a note of it wrong as NGC 2246 which is part of the Rosette - it wasn't until the day after when I was checking the lights that I realised something was strange, I recognise that cluster... Slightly annoying, I've already done the Rosette once, and my wife even framed it for me for my birthday, and of course now this is my better version, ho hum. I'm slightly concerned though that I have some coma showing, as you can see from the unprocessed corners below, and that the coma seems to be asymetrical. I'm using a Baader MkIII CC, and the scope was laser-collimated at the start of the session. Would appreciate any input from you knowledgeable folks on this. The target was off to the right of the frame so the stars are unfortunately not as round as I'd like, and I had to do a bit of minor offset surgery in the very top-right corner. Anyway, hope you enjoy, Cheers,
  4. I currently have a 200p on a manual Dobsonian mount. I have also read the 'making every photon count' book. I have a modded xbox webcam and a decent digital camera. Please check out my pictures at www.mauton.co.uk Based on the pictures I have taken so far, I am being bitten by the astrophotography bug - and I am very limited at the minute my not having a motorized mount. Below is my plan which while I wont buy everything over-night I want to run it by you guys to get your advice / opinions on it. I am probably more interested in DSO / clusters than planetary, how I would like to think that my setup is at least capable of taking planetary images. Step 1 - DSLR Canon 1100d While I know that I will not be able to take anything more than several seconds of exposure, I am still interested in taking pictures of the moon and possible short exposure shots of Jupiter / Saturn. I also believe that if I buy a fast lens f/1.4 I may be able to stack multiple short exposure pictures of Orion (using a simple camera stand). Will also be interesting to directly attach the camera to my current scope via a t-scope. Step 2 - ED80 Pro OTA From reading these forums the ED80 scope possibly gives the best bang for the buck. Q1. Will a 1100d attached to the ED80 (tracking/guided) - produce good results? Q2. - I would like to ultimately but a HEQ5 Pro mount, however is there a lighter / cheaper tracking mount I could buy to mount the ED80 ? Q3 - Would it be worth attaching a guide camera to the 1100d / ED80 ? Step 3 - HEQ5 Pro I am looking at the HEQ5 Pro with Syntrek and then to use the EQMOD. This should save me around £140 compared to the Synscan. My aim here is to mount my 200p on this mount and attach the 1100d camera to it for imaging. Q1. What advantage would i gain from imaging from the 200p as opposed to the ED80? - Would one give me better images of DSO and the other planetary? Q2. If i mounted the ED80 on the 200p, what does this give me the ability to do??? or am i better off just using 1 scope at a time? I know there are lots of questions - but before splashing out a lot of ££ I need to know that I am at least on the right tracks. Thanks
  5. tekkydave

    IMG 0072 1 800x800

    From the album: Lunar

    Moon 18/11/2013 via Canon EOS 1100D and Celestron 127SLT
  6. Hi Thought as most to have another go at some lights taken a few weeks back as the clouds are well & truly back! Both pictures are taken from the same lights 30x180 lights at iso800 with a Canon 1100d (unmodded) through 150p with separate 10x30 lights for the core, the first without any calibration files & run through adobe raw as recommend by Gorann (many thanks for the info) 2nd one is also with 20x bias, 10 darks, 20 flats. Both are a little over processed (still learning) Any advice on achieving better results would be much appreciated thanks for looking
  7. Hi everyone. I'm back, and trying again to get a decent DSO photo! This is my personal favourite so far, so I must be getting better! haha Still a long way to go with the processing skills, but I'm sure I'll get there. 23x Lights - 120 Seconds - ISO800 20x Darks 20x Flats (Yes! I've started to use these!!) 20x Bias Processed using Photoshop and ProDigital Astronomy Tools Hope you like it. Thanks, Mike
  8. For sale, excellent condition (no marks on the body) very low shutter count under 4000. The IR cut filter has been removed for more response on red (spectrum) emission nebula. Comes with battery and charger, and cable to connect to computer. Full computer control with software like APT, live view, 12 mega pixel, the camera also feels lighter than its previous model 1000D. Message me for more info..........price £165 which includes special delivery.
  9. Jonk

    M27 Dumbbell nebula

    From the album: Jon's images

    First guided image taken with 250PDS / AZ-EQ6 GT setup. Canon 1100D Baader modified, PHD2, Astronomik CLS clip filter, 1 hour 6 minutes, just as a test.
  10. Hi guys. Well, I've been giving it some thought for a while now... And while the night skies are shocking at the moment (damn you clouds!!) I've sent my camera away to cheap Astrophotography to have the Baader mod done. I'll finally get some Ha data in my pictures!! Apparently, my 1100D will still be ok in the day time too, using AV mode which is the reason I've chosen this mod. Hope it comes back soon, and the clouds go forth and dissipate so I can post up some new amature photos with a bit more detail!
  11. Hi All, Had another great holiday in France. Unfortunately only 2.5 clear nights in the week and I picked the week containing the longest day! However I managed to capture 2 targets I have wanted to try for a while and here they are. I believe I over processed the Veil but I got excited as I found myself finally understanding some of the actions in photoshop! I am aware there is a lot of "Red" too - something I am working on correcting as I get used to the camera after being modified. Both were using ED80 on HEQ5 with modified Canon 1100D (with Astronomik CLS filter), guided with ASI120MM on ST80. Approximately 20 x 300 second exposures with darks and flats (taken as the sun came up lol - darn these short nights!) I am happy with them anyway :-)
  12. This is my first go at M31, taken with the EF200L and an unmodded Canon 1100D on a Astrotrac. I quite enjoy this wider FOV for Andromeda, its a nice change to see it floating in space rather than squeezed diagonally into frame hopefully this time next year i will have a scope and i myself will be doing the squeezing. Exposure details: 1 hour of 120 second subs, f4, ISO 800 4 hours of 180 second subs, f4, ISO 1600 Calibration frames 200mm FL Clear skies! Callum
  13. Hi, Does anyone know the pin outs for a Canon 1100D battery pack? I am trying to build an external power supply for my 1100D and have bought a cheap replacement battery that I have pulled apart, but there are four contacts across it and I am not sure which ones are the +ve and -ve terminals. I have taken some pictures of the regulator board that was at the top of the two batteries: The first picture shows the component side with the three contact pads marked B+, B- and Bc. The B+ and B- pads were connected to the +ve terminals of the batteries and the Bc was connected to the -ve terminals of the batteries. However, when I connected these terminals up to a regulated bench power supply unit set to 10 volts DC, I was only getting a couple of volts at a couple of the contact pads (shown in the second and third photos). So rather than go through the regulator board, I thought I would just solder my dc/dc converter to the correct terminals to power the camera. This is where my question comes in. Which of the four contacts as shown in the last picture are the +ve and -ve terminals. Sorry for the waffle and thanks if you can help. BTW: there are no markings on the battery case or label itself to help - cheap copy component made in China.
  14. Hi everyone. Not often I post in this section, but last night I finally had some working equipment and clear skies (with some moon...) So had a go at M27- The Dumbbell. I'm still learning how to process, and trying to figure out flats still. But I'll get there. 14 Lights - 800iso x 300 Seconds 20 Bias 19 Flats No Darks (Wanted to go to bed... it was getting late...)
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