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Found 159 results

  1. Hello all, Feels like years since I last posted here. To be more precise its 3 months to the day since my last image. Got this one of Saturn last night. Pretty pleased with it given how low the planet is. The moons captured are, left to right, Tethys, Dione and Rhea. Anyone know much about the dark marking in the A ring on the right tip? (sorry if its already been mentioned in other threads) I thought it was an artifact at first but have noticed it in other images. Taken through my 8 inch SCT with a 2x barlow lens and DBK imaging source camera.
  2. From the album: My astronomy kit

    My first telescope - 6" SCT on CG-5 GOTO mount. Excellent all-rounder, served me well for many years. Fantastic for doing public displays etc - dial up the good stuff and let the crowd go wild :-)
  3. Aenima

    Bi-colour NGC7000 Wall

    From the album: CCD venture

    A h-alpha and OIII shot of the Wall section of NGC7000 aka north america nebula. Processed to resemble the hubble palette colour scheme. ED80 - ATK16HR - Ha clip filter - EQ6 - finderguider 9x50mm PhD2 - photoshop - DSS.
  4. Hi, I currently have a Lunt 50THa and I am looking for something showing more detail and contrast on the sun's surface. I have been considering the new Meade SolarMax III 70 Double Stack, the Lunt 60 with DS (fairly expensive in comparison) and now stumbled across the Daystar Chromosphere. My key considerations: - I love that I can just take out the Lunt at lunch time, put it on a photographic tripod, and I am up and running in about 5min. - When travelling, it would be easier to have one telescope to take with me for day and night use - Cost is certainly an aspect - I do not want to spend more than about 3000 pounds. May I get your input on a couple of assumptions I am making (and which may be completely wrong - sorry, I am not a telescope expert, I just love using them...) - The only purpose of double stacking is to get a narrower bandwidth using (cheaper) filters with a wider bandwidth - by using two 0.7nm filters tuned to slightly different bandwidth the Lunt and the Coronado achieve 0.5nm effective transmission. - A Daystar Chromosphere with a transmission of <= 0.5nm will hence show me the same detail as a Lunt or Coronado Double Stack with a single Etalon - A refractor up to 80mm does not require an additional ERF - A relatively cheap achromat will do - as I am only observing at a single wavelength, the correction for multiple wavelengths really does not make a difference (at least for H alpha) So on that background I guess an 80mm refractor with the DayStar will give me a really good solution am I right? Best Thomas
  5. Hello , I am physics student in Turkey . I have used telescopes but they were manual mount because of that I do not have any experiences with GO TO mounts . I upload photos and I pressed alignment button before finding 3 or 2 stars . Still ı did not find any stars from catalog . I really watched many videos but I did not do it well my process still not continue . 12 photos I upload , first photo teleskop , last photo is the my last step , which button should I have press?
  6. Hello. I am using a Orion xt8 reflector telescope. I am wondering what optic / eyepiece set up I should be using for a mix of DSO and planets. I have a couple pictures which I have taken with honestly my cell phone on one of those (Omi cellphone adaptors for telescope) and they pictures don't come out to bad... but I am looking for something that I can actually put into the eye piece that will give decent looking pictures, or even one that I can hook up to my computer and look through it live. Price really is not the biggest issue but not really looking for something over $400. I know there might not be such a thing as I am describing. most of these pictures were taken with a 2x barlow and a 20mm The ones of mars I just took with a 5x barlo and the same 20mm. and I am unsure what this star formation I took a picture of is but It looked pretty cool and I am glad that I was able to take a picture of it.. But just looking for some help choosing what camera would be best. (Obviously using the phone camera the objects appear so bright and there is no way to pull the actual detail of the planet into focus for me) But any help would be great :) Thank you for any feedback you have and I cant wait to become more active on this forum!
  7. Hello there! I am almost a noob to telescopes, but in the past weeks I have been watching Mars, Neptune, Saturn etc. But absolutely no look with any galaxy or cluster. And guess what, I LOVE IT! I own a Celeston Nexstar 4SE and a Nikon 3100 but I have no idea what I need to buy to connect them. Something like a T adaptor or I dont know... please help! Also, I would love to use some filters and a wifi for my AUX so I can use the app on my phone. So it woul be great to help with those aswell. I know that my telescope is not very good with nebulas and stuff like that, but I guess it can still take some decent shots of them right?
  8. Also known as the Theta Carinae Cluster, The Southen Pleiades is a very bright open cluster in the Carina constellation. It was discovered by Abbe Lacaille during his visit to South Africa in 1752. Containing around 60 stars, IC 2602 shines with an overall magnitude of 1.9 and its brightest member is Theta Carinae with a visual magnitude of 2.7. This cluster of young blue stars is relatively close to us at "only" 479 light years. 5 May 2018 The Southern Pleiades open star cluster ( IC 2602 ) in Carina ( please click / tap on image to see larger and sharper ) Image details can be found here.
  9. Hey, I recently started with astrophotography. I used a Canon EOS 80D with a 200mm telephoto lens. Now I got a Bresser 96-18760 - Skylux 70-700 telescope. I have already seen some beautiful nebulae. Now I want to attach my camera to the telescope. On the internet I have already found something of what I could use, but before I buy something I want to be sure that it will work. I have read that you can attach the camera to the telescope via a T2 ring and a special lens. For the T2 ring I found this: https://goo.gl/1GN4Zi. To attach the T2 ring to the telescope I found this: https://goo.gl/wgVBfX the only problem with this part is, that it isn't the correct size. It say's 1,25 inch, but my ocular is 1,6 inch. I can't find the correct part to attach my Canon 80D on my Bresser telescope.
  10. Newb here. I have settled on my first telescope being the 4SE or 6SE and I have a Sony Alpha 300 DSLR I would like to be able to connect to play around with AP. I am barely starting to grasp the terminology involved with telescopes in general but it seems connecting a camera to a telescope is a whole different ball game. It seems as though the 4SE has a separate eyepiece and camera attachment? Looks like you can just flip a knob to swap between the viewer and camera? Whereas the 6SE it appears that you have to remove the whole eyepiece to connect the camera. After reading some reviews everyone says they immediately wanted a more powerful telescope so I am thinking the 6SE may be the way to go but I really don't like the idea of having to swap back and forth by removing the eyepiece, is there an after-market accessory that would allow it to work more like the 4SE (flip a switch from viewer to camera and back)? And I guess my other question is are the optics really that much better on the 6SE that it would be worth the hassle when connecting the camera? I see that the light gathering capability and magnification are better but how perceivable is that difference? My goal is to do some moon viewing but it would be great to see some cool deep space objects too. + One final thought, how much does the auto star tracking feature help or hurt the image quality? I mean on a 20 second+ exposure the object is going to move some amount, is the Nexstar tracking system really able to keep the object that precisely still in the optics? Or should I just expect to get blurry spots of light when photographing deep space objects? Thanks
  11. Hi guys This topic was opened to see if anyone can help me determine which operating system is compatible with the telescope control. I have a Skywatcher 130/650 I can not control my GoTo telescope and windows 7 but I can not see the planetarium program.
  12. Hi all, I have celestron astromaster 130eq scope ..it is very difficult to view through 20mm eyepiece..is there any other for broader view for both terestrial and astronomical viewing?with good eyerelief as I wear glasses..32mm is good ..please reply
  13. So i was browsing amazon de and i found a telescope thats incredibly cheap.A meade 8 inch goto.It retails for 2000 euros but its selling FOR FREAKING 350 EUROS.Somebody is really trolling or the telescope is completely broken although it says its like new.I can give the link if you want to see it.Imagine if the telescope is in great condition and if the seller is trusted.I would kill myself.
  14. For sale opticstar maksutov cassegrain F12.5. F 1900mm long focal length telescope, great condition throughout, except the attached dovetail bar which has the usual marks (see pics). Also comes with a decent finderscope and end caps and home made dew cap. Great visual scope. Selling due to upgrade and fund a larger scope. Price £220, collection only, unless someones prepaired to take the risk and pay extra for the delivery.
  15. Hi, After a lot of research I purchased my first advanced telescope a 12inch Orion SkyQuest Open Truss Dobsonian. Being into astronomy for years now this is the first gaint telescope I am using. Today was first light and I was rather confused as to what I was seeing. Comparing my tiny 4inch view of Jupiter with the view from this 12inch; it was nearly similar! So the question is which eyepieces should I use to get better detail? I have a 28mm, 32mm, 15mm, 6mm etc. and a Baader zooming hyperion. I viewed Jupiter from both the telescopes using a 32mm wide angle eyepiece. This is probably a really rookie question so go soft on me Which eyepieces and of which make should I attach to fully utilize the capability of this telescope? I tried the Baader and the 15mm and the 32mm for seeing Jupiter tonight. Any help would be highly HIGHLY appreciated. Clear Skies, Div
  16. Good evening everyone, I'm looking into buying my first telescope. Interested in planets and DSOs. I've narrowed it down to 2 scopes: the Orion SkyView Pro 8" reflector and the Celestron Omni XLT 150 refractor. A few people on here highly suggest the SkyView pro 8", but I'm curious as to how much maintenance is going to come with it? I'm American living in Sicily, so it's not easy for me to go to a shop and ask for help! From the price and high ratings of it, it's very appealing. But on the other hand I understand the refractors require almost nothing, just keep the lens clean. Any comments?? Thanks
  17. Tarantula Nebula ( NGC 2070 ) in Large Magellanic Cloud ( LMC ) by Mike O'Day. The Tarantula Nebula ( NGC 2070 ) is the largest and brightest emission nebula in the nearby irregular galaxy, the Large Magellanic Cloud ( LMC ). At a distance of 160,000 light years away from us, the Tarantula Nebula is so bright that it would cast shadows on the Earth if were as close to us as the Orion Nebula in our galaxy. New version ( April 9 ): ( please click / tap on image to see larger and sharper image ) ............ Older versions: And here it is re-processed to try to reduce the red background ( due to light pollution I think ) without impacting the colour of the stars too much ( please click / tap on image to see larger and sharper ) Details: Nebulae: NGC 2070 Tarantula Nebula NGC 2048 NGC 2060 NGC 2077 Open clusters: NGC 2042 NGC 2044 NGC 2050 NGC 2055 NGC 2091 NGC 2093 NGC 2100 Image centre ... (nova.astrometry.net) Field of view (arcmin): ... Telescope: Orion Optics CT12 Newtonian ( mirror 300mm, fl 1200mm, f4 ). Corrector: ASA 2" Coma Corrector Quattro 1.175x. Effective Focal Length / Aperture ): 1410mm f4.7. Mount: Skywatcher AZ Eq6 GT. Guiding: TSOAG9 Off-Axis-Guider, Starlight Xpress Lodestar X2, PHD2 Camera: Nikon D5300 (unmodified) (sensor 23.5 x 15.6mm, 6016x4016 3.9um pixels). Filter: none. Exposures: 100 sub exposures ranging from 1s 100ISO to 240Sec 400ISO HDR processing of 5 sets of images Pixinsight & Photoshop 20 December 2016 / April 2017
  18. Hello, I have been wanting to get into Astronomy for quite a while now, and I need some advice for buying a telescope. I want something that I can look at nebula's(my personal favorite thing to look at), as well as planets, at a high resolution. I also need something that is decently portable, something that could easily fit into a truck. Do you have any suggestions for a good high resolution telescope? P.S. Sorry if I say anything stupid, kind of new to this.
  19. NGC 2014 and Dragon's Head nebula in the Magellanic Cloud ( LMC ) not far from the Tarantula Nebula by Mike O'Day ( 500px.com/MikeODay ). This image shows multiple bright nebula and star clusters in an area adjacent to the The Tarantula Nebula ( NGC 2070 ) in the nearby irregular galaxy, the Large Magellanic Cloud ( LMC ). The largest of these are the bright pink nebula in the mid-right part of the image ( NGC 2014 ) and the blue nebula in the lower middle ( NGC 2030 ). ..... Updated image - reprocessed to impove colour balance ( April 15th ) ( please click / tap on image to see it larger and sharper ) .... Original: ( click on image to see larger and clearer ( grrr... image compression in version above )) ---------- This is the first image captured as part of a new image capture and processing workflow I am trying out... Roger Clark ( http://www.clarkvision.com/articles/index.html ) has a number of articles addressing colour processing and the performance of modern DSLR sensors. The "take homes" for me have been: 1. With a modern sensor ( one with on-sensor dark current suppression technology ) one may not need to capture dark frames ( in order to remove the now non-significant pattern noise ). 2. "Correct" white balance processing should start by using "daylight" RBG channel multipliers ( to get the star colour 'right') and any histogram adjustment to improve white balance of darker parts of the image should involve aligning the left side of histogram curves ( ie. not the peaks ) So, the workflow to produce the image above involves calibraiton with Superbias & Master Flat but no dark frame subtraction (neither post nor in-camera). Roger Clark speaks of using a "bad pixel map" as the basis of reducing hot pixels. I have not figured out how to produce one yet. However, with a little bit of dithering during guiding ( and the very busy image ) the hot pixels that are in the image below are not too overwhelming. With regard to colour balance; I tried using the "daylight" factors reported by the camera but these resulted in an image and stars that were quite blue. This image was based on the factors reported by DXOMark for the Nikon D5300 ( R x 2.12, G x 1, B x 1.49 ( D50 standard )). This was better but I still felt the need for a final tweak in Photoshop ( colourBalance Highlights +15 Cyan/Red, -5 Magenta/Green ) to improve the colour in the stars and mid-tones. { DXOMark "white balance scales" for D5300 found at: https://www.dxomark.com/Cameras/Nikon/D5300---Measurements on the "color response" tab } --------- Details: Bright Nebulae: NGC 2014 ( upper right, pink) size 30 x 20 arcmin Mag +8 NGC 2020 size 2.0 arcmin ( small blue-green oval nebula ) NGC 2030 NGC 2032 ( Dragon's Head nebula - blue, central bottom of image ) NGC 2035 size 3.0 x 3.0 arcmin NGC 2040 size 3.0 x 3.0 arcmin Open clusters: NGC 2004 size 2.7 arcmin Mag +9.6 NGC 2011 size 1 arcmin Mag +10.6 NGC 2021 size 0.9 arcmin Mag +12.1 Annotated : Image centre RA 05h 33m 32.362s, Dec -67° 32' 18.145" (nova.astrometry.net) Orientation: up is west, right is South Field of view (arcmin): 58.8 x 39.2 Scale (full size image) 0.585 arcsec/pixel Telescope: Orion Optics CT12 Newtonian ( mirror 300mm, fl 120mm, f4 ). Corrector: ASA 2" Coma Corrector Quattro 1.175x. Effective Focal Length / Aperture : 1410mm f4.7 Mount: Skywatcher AZ Eq6 GT Guiding: TSOAG9 Off-Axis-Guider, Starlight Xpress Lodestar X2, PHD2 Camera: Nikon D5300 (unmodified) (sensor 23.5 x 15.6mm, 6016x4016 3.9um pixels) Format: 14bit NEF Noise reduction: off Filter: none HDR combination of seven sets of exposures (20 & 22 Feb 2017): 58 x 240 sec ISO 800 8 x 120 sec ISO 800 8 x 60 sec ISO 800 8 x 30 sec ISO 800 8 x 14 sec ISO 800 8 x 7 sec ISO 800 8 x 3 sec ISO 800 Pixinsight: 26 Feb 2017 Links: 500px.com/MikeODay photo.net/photos/MikeODay
  20. I am a newbie and want to know how to view Jupiter. When I do this myself, when I start focusing it becomes smaller and brighter and I am not able to observe the bands. PowerSeekerAZ.pdf
  21. Hello Everyone, My name is Forest Fernandez. I am a hobbyist Photographer that just started getting interested in Astrophotography. I started last year in 2016 with my current set up, a Canon 5D Mk3 w/ a Rokinon 24mm on Tripod with a shutter release. In my about me section you can go to my facebook where i have some of my photographs that i've taken. I will try to include some of them in this post as well. I went out every night last summer to take photos, really diving in to try to learn as much as i could. I fell in love! I am now interested in buying a Telescope that i can adapt my Canon 5D Mk3 to. Ideally: I'm looking for a telescope that will allow me to photograph Nebulae specifically. Galaxies would be great, but i know that only one or two are visible to beginner to intermediate telescopes. So far this is what i've learned that i need from researching telescopes: LARGE Aperture, more light i can pick up the better. Telescope that can pick up low light objects in the sky, i.e. Nebulae. Equatorial Mount, for the Photography element. Dobsinian i've been told is the way to go for low light Nebulae's and such. ADVICE: I am looking for advice from experienced astrophotographers here on the following things: - Any other factors i need to take into consideration to get what i'm looking for. That would be great. - I'd like to be able to make decently sized prints of these photographs, but i know that often times lower budget telescopes don't have great print quality. Any advice? - Telescope suggestions to pair with my Canon 5d Mk3. I have roughly a budget of 3,000$. I'm looking forward to hearing everyone's input. Thanks!
  22. I have been chasing a good collimation for a week now. When using high powered eyepiece they don't look like this below. The centration is the same but, it is filled with eye reflections etc. This is with a 4X Powermate and ASI 174 M/C camera. When I focus in on the star the Airy Disk is hard to see due to seeing I hope or I'm still not collimated fully. The first is the defocused star and the second is focused. Advice/comments are welcome . I'm seeking feedback on whether I have achieved a good collimation. My planetary targets were either down or oculted by objects.
  23. Hello everyone, I decided to take the big step and send my tilt tuned Lunt LS60 to Arizona for a pressure tune retrofit, cost $500 US but after reading countless opinions from pressure tune users I decided it would be worth the dough. Cant wait to get it back now, turnaround time is about 30 days or less they tell me, oh man I wanna see now, god I hate waiting for things!.
  24. Hi guys I currently own a 12" skywatcher collapsible dobsonian but need to upgrade now to have goto functionality. It is way to expensive for me though and I can only spend up to 1200 AUD ~ 900 USD. Could anyone please help me think of some alternatives, to track and remotely control my dob? Thanks guys!!
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