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Found 181 results

  1. Hello, i am new to this forum, i made my account here because i need help. So few weeks ago i ordered a USB to Serial cable to be able to Control my Telescope with my computer using stellarium. It arrived today. So i made my Star Alignment, then i plugged the cable to my Telescope and Computer, i installed the Cable driver and ASCOM Platform + ASCOM Celestron Driver. I started DriverConnect.exe and put the Celestron Driver i downloaded, and did the properties informations ( had to tick on "Advanced Setup" and "Show All COM Ports" ) and i put "COM8" on "COM Port", then i pressed "OK" and then "Connect" Result: Create Creating device Connected Connecting to device Error System.Exception: Connect to COM1 failed, no Celestron scope detected to System.Dynamic.ComRuntimeHelpers.CheckThrowException(Int32 hresult, ExcepInfo& excepInfo, UInt32 argErr, String message) to CallSite.Target(Closure , CallSite , ComObject , Boolean ) to ASCOM.DriverConnect.ConnectForm.btnConnect_Click(Object sender, EventArgs e) in C:\ASCOM Build\Export\ASCOM.DriverConnect\ConnectForm.cs:line 268 Dispose Disposing of device ReleaseComObject Releasing COM instance ReleaseComObject Completed release. Count: 0 GC Collect Starting garbage collection GC Collect Completed garbage collection "Connect to COM1 failed, no Celestron scope detected" In Stellarium i set-up everything, the plug-in and restarted the app, then added my telescope and i says it's "connected" but i can't find my telescope. Telescope: Celestron NexStar 127SLT The Cable i bought: https://www.amazon.com/Telescope-CP2102-Adapter-Control-Console/dp/B077G37VL1/ PC Specs: Windows 10 Pro, GTX 970, 8GB Ram(DDR4), i7 6700 3.4Ghz Looking forward for your help, thanks in advance, dragorom7.
  2. Hello everyone, happy Tuesday. First time stargazer here, I'm hoping I can get some awesome feedback from you guys. my fiancé and I are planning on taking a trip to Great Basin National Park from October 25th-30th, we're trying to catch the new moon, we want to do some deep sky viewing but we're having such a hard time on knowing which kind of telescope to purchase. we do have a few must- haves on our purchase, but I wanted to see what you guys recommend and what your experiences have been. we need a telescope that is portable good for deep sky viewing reflector vs. refractor and almost, but not necessarily, easy to use (we have time to learn the ins and outs of it) I apologize if its a lot, but trying to understand the jargon, as of now, is giving me a hard time Cant wait for any responses!! p.s. anyone ever been to Great Basin? what should we expect on our trip? its our first time going and first time doing any serious camping!!! THANKS A BUNCH!!! -LILY
  3. Ladies and gentleman, Thank you for helping me in advance. As a kid I've always been fascinated with the sky and what was in it. The nights sky is filled with beautiful stars and nebulae and I want to see them for myself and be amazed how insignificant we really are compared to this vast open space. So let me adress some of the key points that I want for a first scope. 1. Around €1000 2. Big aperture, I want to see as much as possible and as far as possible while not losing a clear image 3. I would like to have a push to or go to system 4. Beginner friendly 5. Size is not a problem 8. I prefer reflectors since it seems they give more aperture for the money but if you know a better scope that sees more with less aperture let me know 9. I have a Canon 550D and maybe I could use this for a bit of astrophotography. This is last on the list tho and can be scrapped if the first 3 points aren't met Of course build quality is very important when making my choice so keep that in mind as well. I'm looking forward to you guys advice. Happy stargazing and clear skies!
  4. [A few more photos are in the imgur album] Made this telescope for observing sunspots. The Sun gets projected onto a piece of paper after bouncing from 3 mirrors inside the frame. It's compact, light, takes only a few seconds to point at the Sun, and sketching sunspots is as easy as circling the spots on a piece of paper. It can even project the Moon: The design is inspired by a commerically available telescope, but I’ve done all the designing myself, just for the fun of it. Sunspotter is full of little details that make it interesting. How do you fix the eyepiece in the exact place where it needs to be? How do you keep the lens in place and perfectly aligned? Building the telescope was a lot of fun, I’ve learned to use a jigsaw, X-Carve and a 3D printer. The plan is to use it to complete the Astroleague Sunspotter Observing Program, but unfortunately I completed it at the minimum of a Sun cycle, and won’t see any sunspots until next year. Telescope parameters: Magnification: 75x Size: 41cm x 41cm x 15cm Weight: 1kg Design: Keplerian Projection size: 75mm Materials needed: Lens: Ø52mm f=750mm achromatic doublet Mirrors: 1, 2, 3 Eyepiece: Baader 10mm ortho 1.5m² of 10mm plywood Wooden glue 5m of PLA filament 12 nails Compressed air Isopropyl alcohol Tools I used: Jigsaw with a 30° bevel capacity X-Carve 1000 3D printer A laser pointer Clamp Learned modelling basics in: LibreCAD Easel TinkerCAD Fusion 360 Part 1: Choosing the lens The idea of a sunspotter is that the light goes through the lens, travels inside the telescope, bouncing from 3 mirrors, enters an eyepiece and the image gets projected on one of its sides. The distance the light travels before entering an eyepiece is the focal length and it determines the size of the telescope. I chose a Ø52mm f=750mm achromatic double. Observing the Sun doesn’t require a large aperture, 50mm is more than enough. I wanted a high magnification and went for the longest focal length I could find, which was 750mm. Achromatic doublet design is what people use in refractors. If it is good enough for a refractor, it’s definitely good enough for my project. With the focal length chosen I could design the wooden parts. A drawing showed that the frame needed to have sides 30cm long, but I wasn’t sure about the placement of the mirrors and went for 31cm sides, planning to shorten the light path as needed by adjusting mirror positions. This is the LibreCAD drawing of the layout of parts on a piece of plywood: Part 2: Building the base Having a drawing of the base in LibreCAD, I printed the drawing 1:1 scale on multiple A4 sheets of paper and glued them together. I transferred the drawing to a piece of cardboard and cut it out. Applied this cardboard template to the sheet of plywood, and cut out two parts with a jigsaw.. I’m not an experienced user of jigsaw, and couldn’t manage to cut half-circles accurately enough. Even worse was that the two parts were very different. I didn’t want the frame to randomly tilt left or right when adjusting its altitude, and had to spend a lot of time with sandpaper to make the halves as similar as I could. Glued the two large parts with three small parts in the middle. Additionally nailed the parts and the base was ready. Part 3: Frame The frame is simply a triangle made of three pieces, with short sides cut at a 30° angle. Most jigsaws can cut at 45°, but not at 30°. Had to buy a new jigsaw with a 30° bevel capacity. Cut out three sides, cut short sides at a 30° angle, but didn’t put them together just yet. The lens needs to be perfectly aligned with the Sun-facing part of the frame, otherwise the Sun projection isn't circular but elongated. My solution was to carve a hole with a little step as shown on the image. The inner hole is Ø46.5mm, the outer hole is Ø50.8mm. The outer hole is the exact size to let the lens fit, but with a little bit of friction. Had to carve several holes to find the minimal size the lens could fit in. The step is just large enough to have enough surface for the glue to keep the lens in place, I didn't want to reduce the aperture too much. I used an X-Carve for carving and Easel for modelling. With all 3 sides ready, I could assemble the frame. It appeared that my 30° angle cuts were not very precise, but after some sandpapering the sides started fitting together alright. Glued the parts together and left them to dry for a day. To apply some pressure on the joints, I wound several twine loops around the frame really tight, made sure all sides fitted well together and left it to dry like that for a day. Part 4: Mirrors When selecting mirrors I was looking for the smallest mirror that fit the cone of light. Small mirrors are a lot easier to place, and they let me better control the length of the light path. I considered using elliptic mirrors, but they were bulky and really hard to place. All mirrors are first surface mirrors, otherwise planning their locations would be a lot more confusing. This was my original plan of placing the mirrors: As you can see, all the angles and distances were carefully measured, and I wanted to simply make mirror holders of those exact dimensions. This was clearly a bad idea. I 3d-printed some parts like this: And only later I realized that the frame angles are not exactly 60°, and that there are drops of glue along the edges that don’t let me fit the pieces deep enough in the joint between the sides. I cut angles from all the mirror holders: After I put the first mirror in place I realized the angles are all wrong, and that I needed to re-do the holder. Separating the mirror from the holder was a huge pain, which resulted in an accident. The mirror fell off the desk and got damaged. Luckily, only the back side got damaged, the front side was still working: The final designs of mirror holders looks like this: The holes in the front surface let me apply pressure on the back of the mirror if I ever want to separate it from the holder. The recesses collect the excess glue to avoid mirror skewing when gluing them. All other holes are simply to save the filament. Part 5: Placing mirrors What I learned is that you can’t plan positions of several pieces with high precision and just hope that it all comes together. I needed a feedback about the precision of mirror positions. I used a laser pointer to verify mirror positions at each step. In the picture you can see that the laser is firmly set in a hole in another piece of wood, with layers of isolation tape on the tip of the laser pointer to make it stable. A clamp holds the piece of wood in place, ensuring that the laser ray goes in the same direction as a solar ray would. A crosshair of black thread at the center of the lens ensures the laser goes exactly through the center of the lens. When placing each mirror, I marked the spot where I expected the laser to end up. While gluing the mirror holder to the frame, I kept the laser as close to that spot as possible. If for some reason, the laser couldn’t hit the expected spot, I did my best with placing the mirror, and recalculated locations of the following mirrors. I saw the first sunspots after placing all the mirrors and simply holding an eyepiece in hand. Part 6: Eyepiece holder I tried eyepieces of different focal length and liked the picture I got with a 10mm eyepiece the most. An eyepiece needs to be in a very exact spot to produce a sharp image. At this point it was obvious that my frame doesn’t match the model, and that I didn’t even know what exactly was wrong with the frame. I didn’t want to rely on the model and moved forward with trial-and-error. I printed several parts to hold the eyepiece, with different eyepiece locations: The part in the photo was a total disaster. It needed quite a lot of filament, at the same didn’t have enough surface area to be glued to the frame, and not enough surface area to hold the eyepiece firmly. The next iteration was a lot better: This part has a lot more surface area, and needs less filament to be printed. I intentionally printed the hole for the eyepiece too small, and had to sandpaper it a little bit, to make the eyepiece stay firmly fixed. Adjusting the focus is done by sliding the eyepiece up and down until the Sun becomes a circle with well defined borders. Part 7: Dust All optical parts should be kept clean. Dust on the mirrors and the lens will make the image darker. Dust on the eyepiece will show up as artifacts on the projected image. Unlike sunspots, the artifacts will not move with the Sun. To clean the eyepiece I used compressed air. To clean the mirrors I used isopropyl alcohol. Part 8: Fire safety Don’t leave devices with magnifying lenses lying around. Once the Sun happened to be in such a spot that its light went right through the lens, burning through the cap of the eyepiece. Luckily, nobody was hurt and no other damage was done. Part 9: Future work Build quality of the base is very poor. The frame tilts sideways when adjusting its altitude despite all my efforts. I’d like to build a new base, but leave all the work to the machines. I already have a model for an X-Carve to make both base parts, compatible with my current frame: A notch along the edge of the half-circle should eliminate the tilt. The precision of the machining should make the base very stable. Maybe next year, when sunspots become a common daily sight, I’ll get to this project. Thank you for reading this far! I hope you enjoyed it.
  5. I'm trying to buy a 10" or 12" dobsonian and I found this website https://www.telescope.com/ Turns out they have free shipping and can ship anywhere. Can I trust this website?
  6. Hi, I currently have a Lunt 50THa and I am looking for something showing more detail and contrast on the sun's surface. I have been considering the new Meade SolarMax III 70 Double Stack, the Lunt 60 with DS (fairly expensive in comparison) and now stumbled across the Daystar Chromosphere. My key considerations: - I love that I can just take out the Lunt at lunch time, put it on a photographic tripod, and I am up and running in about 5min. - When travelling, it would be easier to have one telescope to take with me for day and night use - Cost is certainly an aspect - I do not want to spend more than about 3000 pounds. May I get your input on a couple of assumptions I am making (and which may be completely wrong - sorry, I am not a telescope expert, I just love using them...) - The only purpose of double stacking is to get a narrower bandwidth using (cheaper) filters with a wider bandwidth - by using two 0.7nm filters tuned to slightly different bandwidth the Lunt and the Coronado achieve 0.5nm effective transmission. - A Daystar Chromosphere with a transmission of <= 0.5nm will hence show me the same detail as a Lunt or Coronado Double Stack with a single Etalon - A refractor up to 80mm does not require an additional ERF - A relatively cheap achromat will do - as I am only observing at a single wavelength, the correction for multiple wavelengths really does not make a difference (at least for H alpha) So on that background I guess an 80mm refractor with the DayStar will give me a really good solution am I right? Best Thomas
  7. Hello stargazers! I am a 14.5 year old boy currently exploring the hobby of astronomy! My first Telescope is the Celestron Firstscope! This post is going to contain mostly everything i do from now on! i will occasionally post some tips and tricks as well as some images(rarely) I am soon getting a 8" dob , but that doesnt mean i wont be using the Celestron firstscope. Hopefully, one day i can look back to this and remember the beggining of my journey as i am intrested in studying astrophysics/ astronomy in university . And if not, i will continue exploring this hobby. So Lets start! Astro Journal #0 So this is almost everything i ve done so far, i have had the telescope for almost 3 weeks now and have used it quite oftenly. The first time i used it was in relatively okay skies,i had no idea what focusing was and just looked at unfocused stars for that day.I cant believe i had such ignorance! After i tried finding why the stars were like that, i finally unsterstood the purpose of the focuser! The next day i used it on the cresent Moon, it took me 10 minutes to find with the 20MM eyepiece supplied with the telescope XD. ( even though it was righ infront of me) It was quite nice! I was able to see some craters on it and focusing was pretty good. Then i turned to the 4mm eyepiece.(75x) mag it almost covered the entire fov. For some reason the 4mm eyepiece isnt able to focus very well in general. And it was kind of blurry , but still enjoyable! Here are some pictures i took with it: i continued viewing the moon for a couple of days, then i decided to do some nebula viewing. I was despirately trying to find orion,as the orion nebula was and Is my FAVOURITE Nebula, it took me some time to realise that what i thought was pegasus was actually orion 's belt and sword ?. The night i first observed orion was a full moon night. It took me around 3 minutes to find the orion nebula in the scope. I just happened to notice it because of accidental adverted vision. I ve heard of adverted vision , but hadnt had the chance to use it , until then. I had reasonably high expectations for a 3" reflector, and wasnt sure if i was looking at it or not. It looked like a faint colourless fuzzy blob. After reporting what i saw to the forum they assured me that i had indeed saw the orion nebula.( this all from quite light polluted skies!) Even though i had high expectations i was pretty satisfied with my views. 3 days after, the moon wasnt very visible so i went out to observe. What i saw amazed me. It was considerably brigher than before ,using adverted vision. The idea of looking at the nebula itself in combination with the even better view, astounded me.(in the same skies) I loved it!!!!!!!!!!! After some though i was very suprised that such a cheap instrument(got it for 60euros , but you can usually get it for around 50) can show you that much! Yesterday i woke up to see the moon venus and jupiter( I wasnt able to view the jupiter-venus conjuction because of clouds, same with the Super Blood Moon. Guess i gotta wait another 19 years ?). I was able to find venus before i left for school. it was okay with the 20mm eyepiece. I just didnt have the time to view it in the 4mm( i know the timing was very unfortunate , didnt want to miss the buss) Astro Journal #1 So here we are! Today! I used the telescope in my backyard(they skies are okay! i can make out around 50 stars in my fov (around 180 degrees) I took a view of the orion nebula! You know what they say! You ll never see less than you saw yesterday!(except if the seeing conditions are worse ?) I was able to see quite more using adverted vision than the first time! { For those who dont know, adverted vision is when you dont look directly at the object you are observing ,as the areas in your eyes that focus on something arent as light sensitive as the areas who do not. So this way you achieve better brightness and clarity } Then i took a look at Taurus! i noticed some stars and then headed right for The Pleiades! The Pleiades , filled the entire Fov of my telescope . It had a pretty clear view. I did not however notice any colour or blue tint surrounding the stars. I wasnt expecting much to begin with so that was okay! I took some pictures of the Orion nebula! This pictures indicate what you will see with bad seeing full moon some light pollution and no adverted vision. However, the results with clear skies, adverted vision and no moon will be WAY better , i Promise. Dark skies will help you the most when looking at Deep Sky Objects Also FOR BETTER VIEWS Dont forget to DARK ADDAPT: DARK ADDAPTATION ALLOWS THE EYE TO SEE MUCH FAINTER LIGHT . TO ACHIEVE DARK ADDAPTATION TRY AND SPENDING AROUND 30-40 MINUTES IN DARKNESS ( AND NO CLOSING YOUR EYES FOR 40 MINUTES WONT WORK) And be careful. Even a look at your cell phone will take the dark addaptation effect away. So if you want to see somehow, use red flash torches,as red is the lowest wavelenght in power. The views you will get on the orion nebula will be amazing! Guranteed!
  8. Hello , I am physics student in Turkey . I have used telescopes but they were manual mount because of that I do not have any experiences with GO TO mounts . I upload photos and I pressed alignment button before finding 3 or 2 stars . Still ı did not find any stars from catalog . I really watched many videos but I did not do it well my process still not continue . 12 photos I upload , first photo teleskop , last photo is the my last step , which button should I have press?
  9. hello this is my polarex 132F (((( https://youtu.be/7gPlOR__86w )))) POLAREX 132F video like New, this telescope pier has no scratches on it \(=,^)/ thank you, telescope from the 1950s
  10. Hi guys, I have always been interested in astronomy/astrology and now I'm at the stage in my life when I can do it as I please now having a job ect… I'm looking into buying a telescope, always wanted to so why not!? I have done some revision already and i'm pretty set on buying a reflector instead of a refractor because of the wider aperture, because it admits more light... You guys will know why. I'm still learning and reading about telescopes looking into different ones and struggling to make up my mind on what to buy. My Price limit for my first telescope is no more than £150 for obvious reasons. I'm trying to find the best possible telescope for that price to get me started. I don't expect anything super fancy but my goal is to be able to clearly see the rings of Saturn, see all the planets, other stars, closely observe the moon, see moons of other planets, see other galaxies, nebulae. things like that. I'm not getting into Astro photography yet, purely just stargazing. I have a few telescopes in mind at the moment - Celestron Astromaster 114EQ, I like this because its got a nice 1000mm Focal length and a 114mm aperture, this costs £129.99 Celestron PS1000 Newtonian relector telescope, this has a 127mm aperture and a zoom up to about 270x I think, it has been reduced from £249.99 down to £119.99 Meade Polaris 114EQ, this is similar to the first Celestron but its £10 cheaper but same focal length and aperture. Any help or suggestions on this would be appreciated. Thanks!
  11. Hi, I have a skywatcher 200p dob and was hoping someone would be able to recommend an eyepiece with a wide field of view that would help finding objects and observing larger objects like the Pleiades. I have had a look at an explore scientific 30mm with 82° FOV, but was unsure if it would be good with my scope. Thanks Katie
  12. Hello, I'm looking to get myself a new telescope to get back outside and looking up. I currently have a Celestron Astromaster 130eq, however, I do not use it as much as it broke in a way where the mount and knobs cannot be fixed. I did enjoy using it, but now I am looking for a more convenient scope to use. I'm looking at smaller goto scopes around $400. I want to be able to take it with me anywhere, set it up in minutes, and get to observing without much hassle (punch in an object and have it be tracked). I'm currently looking at the two scopes below: Celestron NexStar 4se Celestron NexStar 130 SLT I realized the 130 is the same size as my current scope, but with its goto factor, I feel like I would use it a lot more. The 4se is very appealing due to its small form factor. In addition to the Solar System, I would like to be able to see some DSOs. As for the price, $400 is my comfort zone at the moment, but I'll consider going up or down based on recommendations. If anyone has any experience with the scopes above, or has a recommendation, please share your input. I would love to hear it as I really want to get back outside and observing. Thanks, Spriggs
  13. Hello. I am using a Orion xt8 reflector telescope. I am wondering what optic / eyepiece set up I should be using for a mix of DSO and planets. I have a couple pictures which I have taken with honestly my cell phone on one of those (Omi cellphone adaptors for telescope) and they pictures don't come out to bad... but I am looking for something that I can actually put into the eye piece that will give decent looking pictures, or even one that I can hook up to my computer and look through it live. Price really is not the biggest issue but not really looking for something over $400. I know there might not be such a thing as I am describing. most of these pictures were taken with a 2x barlow and a 20mm The ones of mars I just took with a 5x barlo and the same 20mm. and I am unsure what this star formation I took a picture of is but It looked pretty cool and I am glad that I was able to take a picture of it.. But just looking for some help choosing what camera would be best. (Obviously using the phone camera the objects appear so bright and there is no way to pull the actual detail of the planet into focus for me) But any help would be great :) Thank you for any feedback you have and I cant wait to become more active on this forum!
  14. Hi, I am a beginner I am wondering what telescope should I buy. It will be my second one, my first one was about £50 and I could see the moon very well with it. Things I am looking for in my next telescope. 1) Not more than £240 2) Gives clear view of Jupiter, Mars, Moon, Saturn Thank you.
  15. Hello I bought my first telescope last year (Celestron Nextar Evo 8), I've used it several times already and never had any problem with moving it/putting it together. Last night I was out doing some photography with my scope and at one point my glove came in contact with the corrector plate. I noticed a small smudge when I came back in. As it's my first scope I've tried to be very careful and got a little scared that it would affect the performance of it. Looking for a professional opinion on this. Does this need to be cleaned? Will it make a difference in my photography/visual? Added two pictures. Regards Brant
  16. Hello there! I am almost a noob to telescopes, but in the past weeks I have been watching Mars, Neptune, Saturn etc. But absolutely no look with any galaxy or cluster. And guess what, I LOVE IT! I own a Celeston Nexstar 4SE and a Nikon 3100 but I have no idea what I need to buy to connect them. Something like a T adaptor or I dont know... please help! Also, I would love to use some filters and a wifi for my AUX so I can use the app on my phone. So it woul be great to help with those aswell. I know that my telescope is not very good with nebulas and stuff like that, but I guess it can still take some decent shots of them right?
  17. hello! yesterday i got my telescope, BRESSER solarix 76/350! so yesterday i went outside around 9pm, I spotted Mars in the night sky very easily, I tried to aim my telescope towards it but... after like 10minutes, I still couldn't aim it ( I did choosed the ocular that had 40mm, biggest one I have ), then I gave up and decided to observe the core of the Andromeda Galaxy because it's way easier to aim at because of it's huge size.. Then huge clouds were coming and I decided to go back home with my telescope.. I did some research and there is a tool named "finderscope", but the problem is that my telescope doesnt have a rail or something that I can put a finderscope to, and im just asking if there is like a univseral finderscope or a finderscope that doesnt require to drill holes for screws, the only thing I observed yesterday was the sun( with my sun filter, I was pretty satisfied for a first time ) and the faint core of the Andromeda Galaxy/m31.. thanks for helping me!
  18. Hello, so I bought my first telescope a few days ago, I bought a SkyWatcher 200p on a goto EQ5 mount, my first general impression is that I made a good decision, it was a bit over my budget, but I bought it second hand, and 8" with goto EQ5 is a good start in my opinion so far, as I won't need to replace is really soon. So I tried observing for 2 nights so far, I tried using it from my garden, and obviously its not amazing, but I live in a relatively small city with a decent light pollution. So the first night was pretty bad, it was really hard adapting to everything, learn how to use everything, my brother ripped by mistake the crosshair in the finderscope(I fixed it today tho, it was kinda loose before, so its even better now), and it was pretty hard. Today I read a little about the things that were harder to me, I tried to align my finderscope, and even tho Im unable to do it for some reason, I know where the finderscope leads me, so its a bit easier, I learned how to use my eyepieces better, managed to use the 2x barlow lens, I still couldn't figure how to really do all the aligning correctly such as polar align etc, but hopefully I'll learn that slowly. I also tried adjusting my goto mount, but I couldn't do it because when Im trying to do the star aligning I don't know yet which stars I should use, and trying to figure where each star is in a place that you're not even sure if you can see it because of light pollution is kinda hard, so I gave up on aligning the goto and just used it to move the mount sometimes to follow an object. The only object that I really saw was mars(I think), I couldn't see it very well tho, I tried using all my eyepieces(25mm, 10mm and 4mm) and my 2x, but it still wasn't really great. Im not expecting to see anything too well obviously, but I did except to see it a bit more zoomed and a bit more detailed than sort of orange lamp light, it makes me wonder what can I do about it, what do I need in order to see mars better? Is it because of the light pollution? Maybe the eyepieces? Something maybe Im doing wrong? Again, Im not expecting to see it like hubble pictures or anything, not even with details, but just see it a bit bigger and a bit more clear, this is a photo for example(took it with my phone and 10mm super eyepiece): One more thing is about the finderscope, when Im trying to adjust the finderscope, I simply can't adjust it enough to make it accurate, I need to loosen the screws to adjust it, but eventually the screw will just go out and the finderscope will still not be aligned with the scope, what can I do about it? I have a lot more to learn and experience, so sorry if I ask really stupid questions etc, thanks a lot for the help!
  19. The Cat's Paw Nebula ( NGC 6334 ) in Scorpius updated ( slight tweak to colour balance, a little brighter and tad more contrast ) ( please click / tap on image to see larger and sharper - a full size image can be seen here ) ...... original: ( please click / tap on image to see larger and sharper - a full size image can be seen here ) ……………………... Also known as the Bear Claw Nebula, NGC 6334 is an emission nebula near the scorpion's tail in the Scorpius constellation. Image details: Image centre ...... RA: 17 20 08.185 Dec: -35 52 30.91 Field of view ..... 57' 37.8" x 38' 51.8" Rotation .......... 0.00 deg ( North is up ) Resolution ........ 0.586 arcsec/px Telescope: Orion Optics CT12 Newtonian ( mirror 300mm, fl 1200mm, f4 ). Corrector: ASA 2" Coma Corrector Quattro 1.175x. Effective Focal Length / Aperture : 1470mm f4.7 Mount: Skywatcher EQ8 Guiding: TSOAG9 Off-Axis-Guider, Starlight Xpress Lodestar X2, PHD2 Camera: Nikon D5300 (unmodified) (sensor 23.5 x 15.6mm, 6016x4016 3.9um pixels) Location: Blue Mountains, Australia Moderate light pollution ( pale green zone on darksitefinder.com map ) Capture ( July 2018 ) 6 sets of sub-images with exposure duration for each set doubling ( 4s to 240s ) all at ISO 250. 168 x 4 min frames plus ~10 frames each for the shorter exposures Processing: Calibration: bias, dark and flat Integration in 8 sets HDR combination Pixinsight July 2018
  20. Hi everyone, I recently got myself a GSO 6" f/4 astrograph, but seems like the secondary mirror was quite off. I then tried collimation using Astro Baby's tutorials, and others around the net. I've had a few Nets during the past 20 years, but this one seems to be a bit of a pain to get right. The secondary holder is a bit stiff. Anyone here done any mods for the scope and have reasonably good performance? I'be attached an image with Mire De Collimation circles. Image shows the reflection of primary, followed by the edge of secondary and followed by the grey card placed behind the secondary, which ends with the focuser tube. Any help will be appreciated. Edit: If I were to move the secondary towards 2'o'clock position, could it solve the problem?
  21. Hello all! My father lives in Istanbul and he has the Gskyer AZ70700 Refractor Telescope. He has been really enjoying it as you can see from the photos I've uploaded in the Amazon review I've left for this item (Btw, I've just realized that this review is now the most helpful/liked review on this item which is cool): https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R35LBDSUABUUAU/ My father is OBSESSED with looking at the moon's craters and he had this telescope for almost a year now and he probably never skipped a day at looking at the moon as long as the moon was visible. I've made the post below on this forum before asking for suggestions on what upgraded equipments I should buy for his telescope: And after the suggestions and more research, I've bought these items: 1) Celestron 8-24mm Zoom Eyepiece (1.25") 2) Celestron 90° Star Diagonal (1.25") 3) SVBONY 1.25" Barlow Lens 2x Multi Coated T Adapter 4) Orion 05598 1.25-Inch 25 Percent Transmission Moon Filter (Black) Now basically, my father's only wish in this life is to be able to zoom at the moon more and see the craters of the moon more clearly while being zoomed more. Right now, when he uses the 2x Adapter with 8mm eyepiece, things get blurry but he keeps trying to zoom more some nights and tells me that he is hoping one day it won't look as blurry on that amount of zoom I showed him a youtube video of the moon's craters zoomed in with a better telescope once and he was basically shocked and almost didn't believe me that that was possible with better telescopes though I am not sure how bigger/better/expensive those telescopes would be. Now my father had an open heart surgery recently but he is OK now and I really want him to experience using a better telescope while he can and me being a good son, I want to buy him a better telescope now as I have a bit extra money to spend. I bought the telescope he is using now for 130$ (btw, this telescope had 5 star average reviews on Amazon at the time of my purchase which is why I bought it but I wish I knew about this forum before and asked you guys before buying that one although my father still loved the telescope a lot so I don't have many regrets about it). I was wondering if there are better budget telescopes that are around 180-300$ that can be at least a bit better than his current telescope when looking at the moon's craters while being zoomed more with better/clearer visuals. Btw, because of the light pollution in Istanbul Turkey, only the Moon, Saturn and some big stars are visible in the sky but my father only cares about the Moon craters anyway. It's also important for me that the telescope I'll buy will support 1.25" eyepiece that my father has. After I've read many Top 10 articles online, the Celestron PowerSeeker 127EQ seems like a good budget option for me and I hear that because it has 1000 mm Focal Length, it's a good option for looking at the moon? I wouldn't know much about that thought which is why I wanted to get you guy's opinion on this. I've also seen that this telescope is being sold in Turkish websites (such as n11, hepsiburada, gittigidiyor etc.) which would mean I wouldn't pay anything for shipment to Istanbul and that he would have the option to return it in 14 days with a full refund if he doesn't like it. However, if you guys think that this telescope wouldn't really differ much from the telescope he has now when it comes to looking at moon's craters zoomed in, or that there are better telescopes than this 127EQ that is not too much more expensive than 127EQ but better at looking at moon's craters zoomed in and still beginner/mid-level friendly when it comes to looking at the moon, then please let me know! I'd really appreciate any input on this before I make my purchase. Thank you in advance!
  22. Newb here. I have settled on my first telescope being the 4SE or 6SE and I have a Sony Alpha 300 DSLR I would like to be able to connect to play around with AP. I am barely starting to grasp the terminology involved with telescopes in general but it seems connecting a camera to a telescope is a whole different ball game. It seems as though the 4SE has a separate eyepiece and camera attachment? Looks like you can just flip a knob to swap between the viewer and camera? Whereas the 6SE it appears that you have to remove the whole eyepiece to connect the camera. After reading some reviews everyone says they immediately wanted a more powerful telescope so I am thinking the 6SE may be the way to go but I really don't like the idea of having to swap back and forth by removing the eyepiece, is there an after-market accessory that would allow it to work more like the 4SE (flip a switch from viewer to camera and back)? And I guess my other question is are the optics really that much better on the 6SE that it would be worth the hassle when connecting the camera? I see that the light gathering capability and magnification are better but how perceivable is that difference? My goal is to do some moon viewing but it would be great to see some cool deep space objects too. + One final thought, how much does the auto star tracking feature help or hurt the image quality? I mean on a 20 second+ exposure the object is going to move some amount, is the Nexstar tracking system really able to keep the object that precisely still in the optics? Or should I just expect to get blurry spots of light when photographing deep space objects? Thanks
  23. Hey, I recently started with astrophotography. I used a Canon EOS 80D with a 200mm telephoto lens. Now I got a Bresser 96-18760 - Skylux 70-700 telescope. I have already seen some beautiful nebulae. Now I want to attach my camera to the telescope. On the internet I have already found something of what I could use, but before I buy something I want to be sure that it will work. I have read that you can attach the camera to the telescope via a T2 ring and a special lens. For the T2 ring I found this: https://goo.gl/1GN4Zi. To attach the T2 ring to the telescope I found this: https://goo.gl/wgVBfX the only problem with this part is, that it isn't the correct size. It say's 1,25 inch, but my ocular is 1,6 inch. I can't find the correct part to attach my Canon 80D on my Bresser telescope.
  24. My apologies for the weather we're currently experiencing, completely my fault quite clearly. Getting delivered on Sunday so I can finally get out and start imaging, although the only thing I currently possess is an unmodded D5300, intervalometer, and a t-ring (somewhere.) Pretty sure looking at this there's no tracking/guiding ability at the present time, but looking to add that at a future point. With the current setup, or not breaking the bank too much more, what's the best I can hope for?
  25. Update: 3rd June Re-processed to remove slight magenta tint caused by the non-uniform removal of light pollution by the DBE process ( it was being fooled by the very bright image centre ). The globular star cluster Omega Centauri ( NGC 5139 ) in Centaurus ( please click / tap on image to see larger and sharper ) A full size image can be found here. original below ..... A newly captured ( May 2018 ) image of the great southern globular star cluster, Omega Centauri ( NGC 5139 ) Omega Centauri ( NGC 5139 ) in Centaurus - ( please click / tap image to see larger and sharper ) A full size ( ~ 6000 x 4000 ) image can be found here ....... This image is an attempt to look deeply into the mighty Omega Centauri star cluster and, by using HDR techniques, record as many of its faint members as possible whilst capturing and bringing out the colours of the stars, including in the core. Image details: Resolution ........ 0.586 arcsec/px ( full size image ) Rotation .......... 0.00 deg ( up is North ) Focal ............. 1375.99 mm Pixel size ........ 3.91 um Field of view ..... 58' 20.9" x 38' 55.1" Image center ...... RA: 13 26 45.065 Dec: -47 28 27.26 Telescope: Orion Optics CT12 Newtonian ( mirror 300mm, fl 1200mm, f4 ). Corrector: ASA 2" Coma Corrector Quattro 1.175x. Effective Focal Length / Aperture : 1470mm f4.7 Mount: Skywatcher Eq8 Guiding: TSOAG9 Off-Axis-Guider, Starlight Xpress Lodestar X2, PHD2 Camera: Nikon D5300 (unmodified) (sensor 23.5 x 15.6mm, 6016x4016 3.9um pixels)\ Location: Blue Mountains, Australia Moderate light pollution ( pale green zone on darksitefinder.com map ) Capture ( May 2018 ) 8 sets of sub-images with exposure duration for each set doubling ( 2s to 240s ) all at ISO 250. Processing: Calibration: master bias, master flat and master dark Integration in 8 sets HDR combination Pixinsight May 2018
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