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Found 52 results

  1. Hi, Folks I am only a few weeks into astronomy and started off with a Celestron 9.25" Evo on the standard AZ mount. I guess with hindsight this wasn't the best place to start and also with hindsight I would have done better to have bought a GEM mount. Anyway, lesson learned and at 71 years old I have to speed up the learning process compared to younger enthusiasts I have 2 issues. 1/ Its a pain dragging the scope out into the garden and setting it up every time I think the fickled weather might be obliging. 2/ I now know that the mount I have is useless for long exposures and a wedge is fiddly to get polar aligned. My question is, though I gather wedges are a PITA to setup etc is if I was to build or buy a pier for the backyard and use my existing mount + a wedge is this a reasonable way to go? Though it's fiddly to set the thing up once set I could leave the mount, wedge, etc covered up and would just need to drop the OTA on when I wanted to use it. Is this reasonable or am I missing something fundamental down near the bottom end of my learning curve Any advice much appreciated and don't feel you have to spare my feelings
  2. Okay, the setup: I stayed out all night last night, set up the Edge 8 just before dark and viewed for a couple of hours before the Moon could come over the trees and fully wash out my sky, which was absolutely cloudless, with the best seeing since......probably last Spring. Unfortunately, the Full Moon rose about 8pm, so it wasn't a dark sky. I just looked at thing toward the north and west as much as possible. I took a break about 10pm, went in to get a cup of coffee, and Blade Runner-Director's Cut was just starting, so I had to get my sci-fi fix for the day. Went back out about 1:30am, the Moon was high by then and you could easily read a book by the light. Undeterred, I restarted my scope (AVX, used "last alignment" and it was dead-on). I was limiting myself to stars, looked at a bunch of doubles, and then I thought....clusters. M13 being rather far removed from where the Moon was, I skewed over to it and, expectedly, saw a dim blob, which would have been much better in a dark sky. So, I wondered if taking a picture would work. I had a 13mm Ultima Duo eyepiece in, it's threaded for a T-ring, so I attached my D3400, set it to bulb and ISO 6400, and commenced shooting some EPP, starting at 10 seconds and working up to 30 seconds at 5 second intervals. I had to shoot quite a few, checking focus and adjusting as I went, but finally got something you could identify. I looked at M42 for quite a while, managed to split Rigel, looked for a while at Alnitak. I considered looking for "attack ships burning off the shoulder of Orion" (movie quote from replicant Roy Batty). I saved my eyes for the last, looked at the Moon, unfiltered, then broke everything down and went inside about 4:30 am. Nothing fabulous, but for a bright night and early AP effort, I'm happy with the outcome. This is a single-exposure at 27.5 seconds, ISO 6400.
  3. Hi very new to guiding and using an OAG on my CPC9.25 SCT and need some help. A few weeks back I managed to capture 10min subs of IC434 without any real issue. I had my CPC9.25 mounted on a wedge, did an EQ North Align, then Polar Align > Align Mount routine. I slewed to a target and set about getting both my guide camera, Lodestar X2 & my DSLR both into focus on my attached Celestron 93648 OAG. My setup as follows: SCT > OAG > DSLR via Baader 2958550 Protective T-Ring The complete OAG thickness calculated from the manual is 66.8mm, comprising (SCT Adapter 25.3mm, OAG Body 29mm & Male M42 Camera Adapter 12.5mm) I can't seem to find info on optical thickness of the Baader T-Ring but can only assume that when attached to my DSLR, gives the norm 55mm to sensor. If this is the case then I am already at 121.8mm. To get focus in the guide cam I had to add a 1.25" nose piece extension and the original end of the guide cam is just visible above the top of the guide cam holder. Now skip forward to last night, I thought I'd try getting wider FOV images of the same target, no problem or so I thought, I have a Celestron f6.3 94175 reducer, I'll just install that directly onto the back of my SCT and attach everything else exactly as above, behind it. Well, getting my DSLR into focus was no big issue, just had to turn the focus knob a bit, the usual when using the FR but my issue was with my guide cam, the stars were huge doughnuts. Through a process of elimination I figured that I had to move the guide cam in nearer to the prism, so I had to remove the nose piece extension and push the camera all the way in to the holder as well as winding the OAG guide cam focuser all the way down. Doing this I managed to get sharper results from the guide cam but these stars were no longer round, they were very oblique circles, pointed at the narrow ends. After lots more fiddling and swearing I came to the conclusion that I could not solve this issue on site so gave up and removed the reducer. Later on I realised that it may be that I needed to adjust the position of the prism i.e. slide it in more to the light beam. As it happens I did not have a suitable allen key with me to try this. My question/s is/are: am I correct in thinking that I was possibly picking up stars right on the edge of the FR in the guide cam, the edge where all the aberration is? just wondering why it was necessary that I had to reduce the distance to light source of the guide cam but the DSLR distance was fine staying put & only needed refocusing? Thanks in advance
  4. Celestron 8" SCT with StarBright XLT coatings, Hyperstar compatible with vixen style dovetail bar. Including finder, screw-on weights to help balance when imaging, flexible dew shield & bahtinov mask. Due to size and weight collection only (from Bedford) £400
  5. So I'm on the lookout for a first scope and I found an advertisement for a Meade 2060 LX6 in my local classifieds for $675 CAD. I tried looking up this particular scope and it seems that it's an older model, so there isn't much to be found in the way of reviews or manufacturer information. Does anyone have experience with this type of scope? Would it be good for a beginner? It's just a little above my price range, considering that I was looking into getting a SkyWatcher 8" dob ($550 CAD). It seems as if the guy is offering a mount a fork mount along with it, as well as some other accessories. Here's the original text of the ad: Clean MEADE 2080 LX6 wide field schmidt cassegrain telescope with Meade wedge (with fine tune knob), heavy field tripod (large enough for 10"), Meade LX6 quarts drive fork mount with Hand box and Meade dec motor installed, 8x50 finder, piggy back mount and choices of either a celestron visual back and diagonal (1.25) plus a Vixen 20mm NPL eyepiece or Celestron Plossl 26mm. OR a Meade 2" hybrid back with 1.25" insert one one of the above eyepieces and front cap. Note: front cap does not sit fully as I have replaced the collimation screws with knobs for easier collimation. I can put the original screws back in for you but you collimate. The inner coating on the corrector plate is faded in one section from a cleaning years ago. No idea why that happened but dos not effect viewing so never bothered me. The LX6 line-up was designed with a bright f6.3 Multi coated optical group (1280mm fl) as opposed to the usual f10 2100+/- set ups in most 8" sct scopes. These were designed for brighter, wide field viewing where nebulae, star fields and the like were more targeted than high-power planetary viewing and are great for imaging purposes. That said, lots of aperture for higher power eyepieces and the Saturn rings are easily made out even from my part-country location at 26x or more. Venus in phase is brilliant (it is in phase now with a lower crescent position.) $675 for set up 1 and $775 for set-up 2. These are not toys. This is not a goto. Also includes Meade travel case and literature. Located 1/2 hr west of NewMarket. Thanks.
  6. Hi, Can anyone tell me whether a C8 will accept a 5xpowermate for planetary imaging? I have seen a number of great images with similar combinations to the above, and recently tried 3x barlow with the C8 and it seemed to be pushing the scope a bit, but ive no idea whether the scope can handle 5x easily or whether its depending on seeing conditions being good. etc. The actual scope is in need of better colimation so that might be a factor affecting the test using 3x barlow. Any ideas hugely welcome
  7. Hi all seeing was not not great but needed my moon fix,x2 barlow dmk21 mono average 1000 frames at 30fps average 400 stacked .forgot to name some craters because i forgot there names seeing rubbish but another not bad night pat
  8. I am seriously looking at this Baader Hyperion 68 degree 13mm eyepiece as a high power for my SCT and in-between power for my 150P Skywatcher newtonian and the refractor, seems like a good solid eyepiece that should work in all of my scopes, even if the 'quality' is more than is necessary for the SCT. I have a 10mm but often that is unusable in the SCT due to sky conditions. Thoughts?
  9. I am selling a JMI focus motor for Meade SCT's. It has a replacement controller as the original was lost many years ago. Works fine on a LX200. Asking £40 for complete unit and controller plus £5 if you need it posted. ***************** SOLD ******************
  10. MarsG76

    Skyris Saturn

    From the album: Solar System Objects

    Saturn captured at f20 on 28th July 2015 using Celestron Skyris 618C.

    © Mariusz Goralski

  11. Happy new year everyone! I've recently started drift aligning, and also tried using the PHD2 drift alignment tool. I'm still new to this but I'm slowly getting better at it with practice. After doing this I've noticed just how badly I have my polar scope aligned within the mount. I decided to correct this at the weekend against Polaris by adjusting the screws, and this got me wondering about cone error. Unfortunately the clouds rolled in before I could check how bad (or good) it is. Does cone error affect how good your guiding will be? I'm using PHD2 and an OAG for giuding through my C9.25 SCT. I've read a few things now about cone error, and know my mount corrects this with a 3 star alignment (NEQ6 Pro). However does this mean the DEC is constantly changing to compensate? Would guiding be smoother if I managed to remove (or reduce) the cone error? I also understand about SCT mirror flop and that this can give false cone error readings. I think I'm quite lucky though as my SCT hardly has any mirror flop at all. When I do get chance to go outside again and check, if I find any cone error, should I bother correcting this, or am I wasting my time? I'm not sure how to shim the standard Celestron vixen style dovetail bar anyway if I need to. Two screws one end, and one screw the other. I'm going to check it anyway, just out of curiosity. I've only had the scope 5 years and never throught to check it before
  12. Celestron 9.25" SCT AVX GOTO with EXTRAS Celestron 9.25" AVX SCT (bought in march 2017 from FLO). As new, in immaculate condition. 9.25” (235mm) f/10 Schmidt-Cassegrain includes StarBright XLT coatings. Tripod is a Celestron Advanced VX goto mount with Nextar+. Includes everything that came with the scope,6x30finder, 25mm plossl etc. Also includes.. Astrozap 9.25" Flexi-Heat Dew Shield. (RRP £73) Artesky Padded Bag. (to protect the OTA). (RRP £89.50) SkySync 16 channel GPS Accesory. (RRP £155) This is on ABS, lil bit cheaper on here. Collection Required. I have upgraded to a cpc 1100 (11") SOLD to Shaun Price: £1,300
  13. Hi all, first post on the forum. I'm just getting into Astronomy after many years of being interested in the idea, and am just getting to grips with the Celestron Evo 9.25 and all the extras I have annoyed the wife by buying. The one aspect I am confused about is how my Skyris 236 CCD will work when attached to the visual back of the scope. After playing around for a bit it seems that what the camera sees is not quite what I expected, I guess many here will think this is a very straight forward topic but I have searched high and low for a more detailed explanations and cannot find one. I'd really appreciate any information/advice that forum members have on the following; Firstly after focusing an object through an eyepiece and then attaching the CCD there is a great deal of focusing required to get the image re-focused. This creates an issue as I have a JMI motofocuser fitted and it takes a long time to get there, in fact a few times I have removed the JMI and then carried out the majority of the refocusing by hand! Can someone provide any information on how far the two focus points (for eyepiece and CCD) could be apart? It seems the two are on opposite ends of the focusing scale. I guess when I get more proficient with the CCD (I'm very interested in the photographic side of astronomy), the focusing between the two will not be required as often. Secondly, and this may not be easy to answer, if I have a Skyris 236 CCD attached what percentage of the available FOV, compared to say a 40mm eyepiece, will be visible? Will the view be comparable to a specific eyepiece focal length? I'm enjoying the discovery process of getting used to the Evo, understanding what can be expected from the CCD will greatly help in this. Thanks for any input you may have.
  14. I had a moment of optical understanding this past weekend. Our stargazing group were away at our favourite dark skies site in the Scottish Highlands for an observing weekend. Weeks prior to this I swapped out the old phillips collimation screws on my 8" EdgeHD for a set of Bob's Knobs knowing that I would need to re-collimate after the installation. Sure enough the optics were way out, I spent the next 3 weeks waiting for a weather break that I could take advantage of. Sadly no such opportunities arose to get the scope collimated, the result being that I knew I had a collimating exercise to go through before I would be able to carry out any observing. So on arriving at our observing site, I immediately set up an artificial star at about 90ft distance from the scope (being new to collimating an SCT I wanted a stationary target to work with), and set about collimation. After about 20 mins at about 200 mag, I believed I had the collimation decently in order. Following recomended procedure I then bumped the mag up higher (about 400), and with the typical degree of defocus things still looked good, I then proceeded to bring things into focus. As I adjusted the focuser closer and closer to focus I noticed that one corner of the image seemed to be coming into focus significantly sooner than the others, resulting in the typical comatic image of an uncollimated set of optics. I compared this image from memory to what I had been experiencing prior to installing the Bob's Knobs and thought that in all honesty this was pretty close to what I was getting before installation of the Bob's Knobs (I received the scope second hand from a recognised vendor in London, that unfortunately went out of business about 6 months later. I should also note at this point that up until this occassion I had not been able to collimate the scope due to the screws being seized in position). Was I happy with this level of collimation accuracy? Not really. Unfortunately I was now running out of daylight and wanted to start prepping for the nights observing. I hummed and hawed about what to do, live with what I believed was a tolerable image, or persist with collimation and risk compromising what I already had. Having read up considerably on the collimation procedure I had heard people referring to '...seeing an Airy disk...' and what I was seeing was certainly not that, so I determined to try and get things better. After a further 20 mins or so of tinkering, I believed I had the defocused image much more concentric, and proceeded to bring things into focus. As I wracked the focuser closer and closer to focus, I noticed that there was still a little variation in concentricity of the diffraction pattern, a little more adjustment was required. Then proceeding to focus, I noticed each outer fresnel ring disappear until I only had a central bright spot and two unbroken rings... Eureka!!!... so thats what an airy disk looks like. Further movement into focus and the remaining rings just disappeared simultaneously and I was left with a pinpoint image of the artificial star. At this point I locked the primary (observing focusing is done solely with a Baader Steeltrack). The moral of the story? Have the courage of your convictions. Proof was in the pudding that night as we experienced some excellent sky transperancy, seeing wasn't perfect but the double cluster in my newly collimated scope was just simply mind blowing, this is the first time I have seen the scope perform to the level implied by its name, pin-point stars from edge to edge across the entire field of view. Thanks for Reading Paul.
  15. Good morning (well at least here in TX) all. I will try and keep this brief. My son and I are looking to upgrade from a cheap newtonian. I have been reading until my eyes bleed as to hopefully not come off as a complete noob but as an active member of other enthusiast groups I find it can be a better use of time to ask those who have "been there and done that". I am considering this listing and have verified it is at least still available. The owner has owned it for 12 years and its a basic GOTO not GPS. Also appears to be a GEQ (I think) which is good as I would like to dabble in photography as well. Given the age of the thing but also considering the additional equipment is this a fair deal or is he asking too much? Thanks again, I appreciate any and all input!
  16. I'm mulling over getting a Hyperstar lens for my 8" SCT... anyone here made the move? How did you find it? Any regrets? Did you dispense with autoguiding completely and just use PEC playback? Thanks.
  17. Selling my complete Hyperstar setup. Please see deep sky images captured using this setup. I will give you a full working demonstration before sale. I am in South London. Please contact me via private message. Thanks, Vincent. Celestron 8 SCT & Hyperstar Full Kit - £2500 ------------------------------------------------------- 1) Celestron 8 SCT 2) Hyperstar Lens 3) Starizona Focusser 4) Starizona Microtouch Controller & Software 5) Rigid Dew Shield for C8 6) Dust Cap for C8 7) Counterweight balance for C8 8) Visualback for C8 9) Viewfinder for C8 10) Filter holder for Hyperstar Lens 11) Original Pelican Case Starlight Xpress Cameras: H9C and M8C - £1500 ------------------------------------------------------------ 1) Starlight Xpress H9C - Cooled One Shot Color CCD Camera (Resolution: 1392x1040) https://www.sxccd.com/handbooks/SXV-H9C handbook.pdf 2) Starlight Xpress M8C - Cooled One Shot Color CCD Camera (Resolution: 2312x1720) http://www.sxccd.com/handbooks/SXV-M8C handbook.pdf 3) Power Supply Unit with cables 4) Box Images with this setup ---------------------------- https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/48334-m33-re-processed/ https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/45614-witches-broom-problems/#comment-456824 https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/43257-hyperstar-first-light-dumbbell-nebula/#comment-434804
  18. sct 9.25,mono dnk 21, pier mounted c gem average 1000 frames @60fps,stacked with registax 5 average of 600 frames stacked
  19. hi all tried again last night but the high winds and thin clouds killed it heres a 2 pane try its about the best of a bad lot all can be seen here sct 9.25 dmk 21 mono expo 1,30 gain 400 gamma 98 1500 frames average stacked 600 thanks for looking Pat
  20. A couple of years ago I bought a second hand C9.25. Not sure how I can tell the age of the model but it is grey with orange writing. I use this scope for visual whilst imaging with my refractor & guidescope. Whilst it has always given pleasing views, especially of planets, the image lacks contrast and is a bit soft. I've fitted Bobs Knobs to it but as yet have not properly collimated it. However I've recently bought a Meade f6.3 reducer with a view to having a go at imaging using an off axis guider and the C9.25. The problem is this. The previous owner of this scope had stored it 'objective down'. The primary mirror is in pristine condition but the same can't be said for the rear of the corrector. It's covered in dust and has what look like grease or oil spots. These look like something has dropped onto the glass and spread outwards. I dread to think what the secondary is going to look like. I've decided to take the corrector off and clean it. I will flock the interior also - might as well while I'm in there! I'll take some pictures as I go along and post them here. Wish me luck. www.flickr.com/photos/greggylike/sets/72157632571499958 John
  21. Anybody from the UK ever buy a Feathertouch Microfocuser from the US? I’m considering replacing my Baader Steeltrack with the Feathertouch. Comparing prices in the UK against suppliers in the US it seems that it might be beneficial to buy direct from the US, especially considering that as a CN member you get 10% discount from Astronomics. If the package is small enough it might just get by customs as well ?
  22. Well... Had a go at cleaning the corrector plate on my 8" EdgeHD today with somewhat mixed results ?. While the glass is much cleaner than before, worrisome dew stains and what looked like pollen marks removed, I am stil less than happy with the results. When caught in the light correctly I can see streaks on the surface of the glass, no doubt left from the cleaning mixture and/or my cleaning technique. Cleaning solution is as recommended by Celestron 60% ISO and 40% distilled water. Also of concern is a coma shaped mark in the bottom left hand corner that I spotted prior to cleaning, and had hoped would be removed during the cleaning process. The mark can be clearly seen in the attached photo. Difficult to know whether the mark has been reduced as a result of the cleaning, possibly wishful thinking on my part. Would welcome some feedback from fellow members who have gone through this process, regarding my results, and also comments regarding the coma shaped mark. Before and after photos attached.
  23. FOR SALE: Baader Click-Lock 2" visual back for Celestron & Meade SCT Screws directly to SCT telescopes with a standard 2" threaded back such as the Meade 8" and Celestron 8" and 9 1/4" aperture SCT scopes The Baader 2" Clicklock Adapter locks eyepieces and accessories into place with a simple twist 20 degree rotation is all that is required Very low force required to rotate Absolutely no sag or misalignment, even for heavy and long accessories So strong they can literally support an entire telescope without slippage There is no easier & safer way to change your eyepieces when its dark Works well when you are wearing gloves too! I used it on my recently sold Celestron CPC-800. See https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/baader-click-lock-2-for-celestron-meade-sct.htm for more info... Price: NOW SOLD
  24. When I bought my Evolution 8 I also bought an Astrozap combined dew shield and dew heater for it. But it wasn’t always successful. On very cold nights and heavy dew nights it just didn’t keep dew from forming on the corrector plate. I found some suggestions on a US forum where the advice was not to put the heater on the metal at the front, but just behind it on the actual tube. The reasoning was that it needs a lot of energy to heat the front metal as it is quite thick. Much better to heat the tube just behind it which will then radiate heat onto the corrector plate. I then found this web site which gave further information on actually making the dew heater. This suggested basing the power on 0.3 watts per cm. I worked out I needed about 21 watts, which equated to a maximum 1.6amps at 12v. I selected the gauge of nichrome wire so I could run it up and down the heater four times to make sure the heat was distributed evenly. I followed the suggestions and used duct tape, and wired it up. I made a small box on my 3D printer to hold all the connections and a 2amp fuse. I ordered an LED Strip Inline Dimmer switch from Ebay for £4.50 so I could vary the power. When using the Astrozap heater I noticed that it kept dew from forming on the outside of the dew shield - obviously a complete waste of energy. So I found a piece of foam from an old diy project, 2cms thick, cut it into sections and attached it with heat resistant tape. The whole thing then had an outer layer of duct tape, and is held in position with velcro. I’m pleased to say that it works fine. The other night I had it on half power and dew began to form on the corrector plate. I put it on full power for ten minutes, the dew had gone and I then ran it succesfully for the rest of the session on three quarter power. Dew was forming on the top surface of the heater, so it looks like the insulation is working well. Total cost was about £16. Eric.
  25. Hi everyone, I have owned a variety of Meade scopes in my life, including a 2120 LX6/Premiere, a 2080 LX3 and my current scope a 2080 LX6 Premiere. I did not know the actual year of manufacture for any of these scopes, as I bought them all second hand. There appears to be next to no information on the Interwebs correlating the Meade serial numbers with the year of manufacture. To remedy that, I'm gathering all the Meade 2080/2120 serial numbers I can find, along with the year of manufacture (if known) and tabulating them onto a webpage: http://deepskies.com/Meade_LX_Registry.aspx The goal is that if we gather enough examples of serial numbers and years, in the future people will be able to purchase a nice mint used LX-series scope and figure out what year theirs is from by checking this registry. It does appear (so far!) that Meade's serial numbers were sequential and that the serial number does indirectly relate to the year it was made. So, if you happen to have a Meade LX, LX2, LX3, LX5, LX6 or Premiere kicking around and you are interested in participating, shoot me a PM (or reply here) with your serial number and year of manufacture (if known). You can also include a picture of your scope if you like. I'm also gathering serial numbers for the later scopes: LX10, LX200 Classic, LX100 and LX50. I even have one LX80 on the registry! I've also put together a crude spotter's guide, as the early LX scopes (LX, LX2, LX3, LX5, LX6 & Premiere) don't actually have their model type inscribed anywhere on the scope! Thank you! Rick in Canada (eh!)
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