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Found 52 results

  1. I am selling my Meade LX90 8" EMC with many accessories due to equipment upgrade, so this lovely scope needs a new home. All in excellent condition; no rust, battery boxes spotless, all motors function perfectly, holds collimation extremely well (only had to collimate once in the past 2 years), when well polar aligned I have achieved 3 minute unguided DSLR exposures. What's included: Meade LX90 8" EMC (in original Meade foam-filled shipping box) Meade 8x50 finderscope Meade standard field tripod Meade equatorial wedge (replacement bolts to hold telescope and adjust azimuth) Meade AUDIOSTAR handset (under 2 years old) in original box (Provides much more functionality than the original Autostar) Meade UHTC flip-mirror system for photography Meade 1.25" eyepieces: 40mm 32mm 26mm 15mm 12.4mm 6.4mm Meade 1.25" telenegative amplifier air spaced triplet barlow Meade series 4000 1.25" filters x5 Meade erecting prism and a 90° eyepiece holder Celestron 2" Mirror diagonal Starbright XLT with 1.25" adapter in original aluminium case Meade #505 cable connector set to connect PC to handset to control mount and update firmware Meade ST-4 module for connecting a guide camera to the mount Meade handset holder Meade front counterweight Jessops flight case to hold eyepieces, etc. PRICE: SOLD Please ask for more photos/information. Price includes shipping to Western Europe. Paypal preferred. SOLD
  2. Hi SGL I popped this topic on CN too but noone seems to know anything. I came by an old Celestron Ultima 8 pre-PEC. I really like the scope and the mount it may be that I have read too much of Uncle Rod's and other's praise that I feel this scope has some intangible personality and charm. Anyway... Circuitry in the base seems to work fine even though the batteries don't hold charge but drive the Ra axis . I have 2 replacement on its way to me. Now my issue: It didn't come with a hand controller. I know it is not needed for tracking, and I don't have a Dec motor but I find it would be useful for centering in RA and D.A.R.V. method drift alignment. I was on the verge of making a crude controller out of veroboard and 4 momentary switches that I thought to be correct from the info on various sites, but then I came across an Ultima 8 project that clearly showed the hand controller for my scope. The pic attached is the one. I am looking for help on how the dial and buttons are wired in and/or photos of the innards of the hand controller or if anyone knows what else is inside the handbox. The sources I was going on so far is a combination of the following 3 links: https://www.cloudyni...ding/?p=8015749 https://onstep.group...in/message/6300 https://github.com/garlick/ultima8/blob/master/base/README.md These of course don't include drive rate rotary switch in the middle and if I could I would really like to to restore the full ability of this mount without spending too much on electronics. Plus I don't want to spend time and effort on wiring something that doesn't work. Oh and lastly I have no background or experience in electronics just own a soldering station and a whole lot of determination. Thanks in advance Greg
  3. I'm having a bit of a clearout to make way for a new project. For sale here are a couple of items that have seen very litle use: 1) Celestron Omni CG-4 GEM Mount + Tripod - £125 *** SOLD *** This is in generally very good condition. There are a few marks, and scuffs consistent with normal use. There are also a couple of minor (small) patches of surface rust on a few of the bolts and steel legs. It has seen very litle use, and has been in storage for the past few years so it is time to find it a good home. The small rubber tips that go on the very end of the feet have perished, so these won't be included. It includes tubular steel tripod, 2 counterweights, built in polar scope, built in bubble level and slow motion controls. Due to size and weight, collection would be preferred from the RG27 area. If you are reasonably local, I would also consider delivering. Price: £125, but I am open to offers. Payment can be made via Bank Transfer (preferred), Paypal or cash on collection 2) ***SOLD*** Celestron Omni XLT 127mm Telescope ***SOLD *** Again this is in very good condition, and has been in storage for the past few years and has had very little overall use. A few marks on the dovetail as is to be expected. It includes a small finderscope, diagonal and a 25mm eyepiece Can be collected from the RG27 area, I could deliver if you are reasonably local, or can be posted for an additional £8. Price: £110, but am open to offers. Payment can be made via Bank Transfer (preferred), Paypal or cash on collection *** NOW SOLD *** Any questions please do let me know.
  4. I am selling a JMI focus motor for Meade SCT's. It has a replacement controller as the original was lost many years ago. Works fine on a LX200. Asking £40 for complete unit and controller plus £5 if you need it posted. ***************** SOLD ******************
  5. lets imagine I wasn't to see a nice DSO about 15' size and I think it should look good nicely framed with a 1 deg field of view in the EP.. Which would give the better (or higher probability of seeing anything at all ) view from a semi urban light polluted home site (e.g Bortle 6)? a) an 100mm f/6 refractor (fl 600mm) and a 10mm EP (60 deg afov, gain 60x = fov pf 1 deg) (and exit pupil of 100mm / 60 = 1.6mm) or b) a 200mm SCT with focal reducer to give f/6 (fl 1200mm) and a 20mm EP (60 deg afov, gain 60x = fov of 1 deg) (and exit pupil of 200 / 60 = 3.3mm) My gut feeling is that the SCT should give a better view just based upon its 2xaperture - but Im not sure I understand fully the maths why. Is the larger exit pupil going to result in a better / brighter / more successful view? Or will the view be 'roughly' the same ? Or have I got it all wrong..... Thanks.
  6. Wife says to get rid of something before I can buy a new toy! C6 is in perfect condition. I am located in North Georgia and would rather not ship. Scope sells for $800 but will let her go for $500 !
  7. Hi, Folks I am only a few weeks into astronomy and started off with a Celestron 9.25" Evo on the standard AZ mount. I guess with hindsight this wasn't the best place to start and also with hindsight I would have done better to have bought a GEM mount. Anyway, lesson learned and at 71 years old I have to speed up the learning process compared to younger enthusiasts I have 2 issues. 1/ Its a pain dragging the scope out into the garden and setting it up every time I think the fickled weather might be obliging. 2/ I now know that the mount I have is useless for long exposures and a wedge is fiddly to get polar aligned. My question is, though I gather wedges are a PITA to setup etc is if I was to build or buy a pier for the backyard and use my existing mount + a wedge is this a reasonable way to go? Though it's fiddly to set the thing up once set I could leave the mount, wedge, etc covered up and would just need to drop the OTA on when I wanted to use it. Is this reasonable or am I missing something fundamental down near the bottom end of my learning curve Any advice much appreciated and don't feel you have to spare my feelings
  8. I recently acquired a used CPC800 SCT. I thought a 'First Light' report might be of interest. First impressions: the tripod is a heavy duty affair with thick legs, a folding lower spreader and a big cast alloy eyepiece tray/steady. The OTA/fork assembly (not separable) is very heavy (21Kg/44lbs) but has a couple of grab handles. You need to be fit to handle this. ? (I was seriously tempted not to go ahead with the purchase after trying the weight.) With the legs retracted it is just possible to pass the tripod through a standard doorway, but it is just as easy to pull up the lower spreader and carry it folded. It is much heavier than a C8SE tripod but more comparable with a EQ5 tripod in weight. Once in position, I checked the level with the handy built-in bubble level and left it. I forgot to screw up the eyepiece tray/upper spreader but I don't think this made any difference. Scope stored on a table with faceplate down and rear handle uppermost. Took the weight with my left arm, elbow fully bent, forearm vertical. Got it on the tripod which took the weight till I got the base to drop over the centre pin, spun it till something clicked into place and then did up the three thumbscrews. I would not try this with an equatorial wedge unless I had a helper. Celestron also sell a CPC 9.25 and CPC1100 - if I had one of those I'd need a sheerlegs or a brawny assistant.? Fitted the visual back (same as C8 SE), prism diagonal (same as C8 SE), straight-thru 50mm finder, handset (Nexstar+) and handset bracket which holds it facing rearwards (a handy feature not implemented on the C8 SE). Fitted a 25mm X-Cel LX that came as an extra. Connected my new lithium powertank and its DC cable, and powered up. It comes ready (CPC Ready) very quickly. Selected 2-star auto align - it whizzed past a time display showing the time ahead of my watch by 1 hour - more on this later. Aimed at Arcturus and afjusted the finder aim. Selected Capella - it nearly got there and then blackout! The cable had snagged and pulled on the plug. I ran the cable through the side handle on the fork and tried again. (It appears that the CPC's supplied cable has a locking ring and the other end has a cigarette lighter style plug.) Capella ... Arcturus .. aligned. Told it to find Mizar (named star menu). It did. Also found M48, the Ghost of Jupiter planetary, Gamma Leo (split ), 54 leo, 88 Leo, 90Leo. The scope appears to be collimated and resolution OK. GoTo is just accurate enough to drop doubles into the bottom of 9mm X-Cel Lx field. Even at 200x and a gusty night the view is rock steady. A pier mount could hardly be stiffer than this! And no obvious backlash in use (unlike C8 SE). Fiddled with the menu, found the GPS is obviously working, and the time set for daylight saving. Corrected it to standard time. GoTo still works. Teardown: tube horizontal, power off, tube cap on, diagonal off, handset and bracket off, left visual back on and capped it, loosened clutch to point tube straight down. Got OTA/fork assembly off and back indoors on table, twirled it into position. Folded up tripod and carried it indoors. I would not try carrying the tripod and scope together. Verdict: Very solid mount should be good for planetary imaging. Some nice features not on C8 SE, otherwise same optical performance. Alarming weight.
  9. Hello I bought my first telescope last year (Celestron Nextar Evo 8), I've used it several times already and never had any problem with moving it/putting it together. Last night I was out doing some photography with my scope and at one point my glove came in contact with the corrector plate. I noticed a small smudge when I came back in. As it's my first scope I've tried to be very careful and got a little scared that it would affect the performance of it. Looking for a professional opinion on this. Does this need to be cleaned? Will it make a difference in my photography/visual? Added two pictures. Regards Brant
  10. Anybody from the UK ever buy a Feathertouch Microfocuser from the US? I’m considering replacing my Baader Steeltrack with the Feathertouch. Comparing prices in the UK against suppliers in the US it seems that it might be beneficial to buy direct from the US, especially considering that as a CN member you get 10% discount from Astronomics. If the package is small enough it might just get by customs as well ?
  11. Okay folks, so, for a variety of reasons, including but not least an appalling sequence of poor weather since my last post on this particular topic, I have been unable to obtain an accurate measurement of the focal length off my 8” EdgeHD incorporating Baader SteelTrack Focuser and Click-lock Diagonal. I managed to remedy this situation over the weekend just past. Initial measurements based on adding the optical path of each of the components together, had the complete resulting optical path at about 2400mm, however this was not bourne out in practice. Using my 22mm T4 Nagler, at 2400mm focal length this should have given approx 45’ TFOV. Using M81 and M82 as a yardstick (approximate separation 36’), they should easily have been visible in the same field of view, however they were not. Extrapolating back from these values seems to be indicating a focal length somewhere between 3000 and 3225, which makes the revised speed of the system a whopping F15 to F16. This must be having a significant detrimental impact on the sub-aperture correction inherent in the Edge HD design, so I’m thinking of removing the Steeltrack from the system and replacing with a FeatherTouch or equivalent. This measurement is actually consistent with a drift measurement I made last year, (instructions courtesy of Don Pensack), but discarded due to it being so far removed from the expected result nearer 2400mm. But the proof as they say is in the pudding. So for those considering adding a Crayford to their EdgeHD, based on this experience I would say don’t. From feedback on this topic in CN, it is very possible that it is something to do with either the slightly faster primary/secondary combination in th EdgeHD and/or the sub-aperture correction in the baffle tube, possibly resulting in significant vignetting. (Thanks to Don Pensack and Edggie from CN, for their input). If you are interested in reading the CN thread discussing this you can find it here: https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/574002-calculating-effective-focal-length-of-an-edgehd/ Kind Regards Paul.
  12. I'm mulling over getting a Hyperstar lens for my 8" SCT... anyone here made the move? How did you find it? Any regrets? Did you dispense with autoguiding completely and just use PEC playback? Thanks.
  13. Happy new year everyone! I've recently started drift aligning, and also tried using the PHD2 drift alignment tool. I'm still new to this but I'm slowly getting better at it with practice. After doing this I've noticed just how badly I have my polar scope aligned within the mount. I decided to correct this at the weekend against Polaris by adjusting the screws, and this got me wondering about cone error. Unfortunately the clouds rolled in before I could check how bad (or good) it is. Does cone error affect how good your guiding will be? I'm using PHD2 and an OAG for giuding through my C9.25 SCT. I've read a few things now about cone error, and know my mount corrects this with a 3 star alignment (NEQ6 Pro). However does this mean the DEC is constantly changing to compensate? Would guiding be smoother if I managed to remove (or reduce) the cone error? I also understand about SCT mirror flop and that this can give false cone error readings. I think I'm quite lucky though as my SCT hardly has any mirror flop at all. When I do get chance to go outside again and check, if I find any cone error, should I bother correcting this, or am I wasting my time? I'm not sure how to shim the standard Celestron vixen style dovetail bar anyway if I need to. Two screws one end, and one screw the other. I'm going to check it anyway, just out of curiosity. I've only had the scope 5 years and never throught to check it before
  14. Does anyone know what the strange diffraction spikes are in this image? I know the star Alnitak is pretty bright but wasn't expecting this. I've never seen this happen before. Is it an SCT thing, or a MY SCT thing? I've seen straight diffraction spikes, but never curved. Is there anything I can do to stop this? Could it be a collimation issue? I did check before I started imaging, but thought everything looked ok. My scope is a Celestron C9.25 XLT, and I'm using a f/6.3 corrector/reducer with modded Canon EOS 600D. Thanks in advance
  15. Hi very new to guiding and using an OAG on my CPC9.25 SCT and need some help. A few weeks back I managed to capture 10min subs of IC434 without any real issue. I had my CPC9.25 mounted on a wedge, did an EQ North Align, then Polar Align > Align Mount routine. I slewed to a target and set about getting both my guide camera, Lodestar X2 & my DSLR both into focus on my attached Celestron 93648 OAG. My setup as follows: SCT > OAG > DSLR via Baader 2958550 Protective T-Ring The complete OAG thickness calculated from the manual is 66.8mm, comprising (SCT Adapter 25.3mm, OAG Body 29mm & Male M42 Camera Adapter 12.5mm) I can't seem to find info on optical thickness of the Baader T-Ring but can only assume that when attached to my DSLR, gives the norm 55mm to sensor. If this is the case then I am already at 121.8mm. To get focus in the guide cam I had to add a 1.25" nose piece extension and the original end of the guide cam is just visible above the top of the guide cam holder. Now skip forward to last night, I thought I'd try getting wider FOV images of the same target, no problem or so I thought, I have a Celestron f6.3 94175 reducer, I'll just install that directly onto the back of my SCT and attach everything else exactly as above, behind it. Well, getting my DSLR into focus was no big issue, just had to turn the focus knob a bit, the usual when using the FR but my issue was with my guide cam, the stars were huge doughnuts. Through a process of elimination I figured that I had to move the guide cam in nearer to the prism, so I had to remove the nose piece extension and push the camera all the way in to the holder as well as winding the OAG guide cam focuser all the way down. Doing this I managed to get sharper results from the guide cam but these stars were no longer round, they were very oblique circles, pointed at the narrow ends. After lots more fiddling and swearing I came to the conclusion that I could not solve this issue on site so gave up and removed the reducer. Later on I realised that it may be that I needed to adjust the position of the prism i.e. slide it in more to the light beam. As it happens I did not have a suitable allen key with me to try this. My question/s is/are: am I correct in thinking that I was possibly picking up stars right on the edge of the FR in the guide cam, the edge where all the aberration is? just wondering why it was necessary that I had to reduce the distance to light source of the guide cam but the DSLR distance was fine staying put & only needed refocusing? Thanks in advance
  16. Hi all, first post on the forum. I'm just getting into Astronomy after many years of being interested in the idea, and am just getting to grips with the Celestron Evo 9.25 and all the extras I have annoyed the wife by buying. The one aspect I am confused about is how my Skyris 236 CCD will work when attached to the visual back of the scope. After playing around for a bit it seems that what the camera sees is not quite what I expected, I guess many here will think this is a very straight forward topic but I have searched high and low for a more detailed explanations and cannot find one. I'd really appreciate any information/advice that forum members have on the following; Firstly after focusing an object through an eyepiece and then attaching the CCD there is a great deal of focusing required to get the image re-focused. This creates an issue as I have a JMI motofocuser fitted and it takes a long time to get there, in fact a few times I have removed the JMI and then carried out the majority of the refocusing by hand! Can someone provide any information on how far the two focus points (for eyepiece and CCD) could be apart? It seems the two are on opposite ends of the focusing scale. I guess when I get more proficient with the CCD (I'm very interested in the photographic side of astronomy), the focusing between the two will not be required as often. Secondly, and this may not be easy to answer, if I have a Skyris 236 CCD attached what percentage of the available FOV, compared to say a 40mm eyepiece, will be visible? Will the view be comparable to a specific eyepiece focal length? I'm enjoying the discovery process of getting used to the Evo, understanding what can be expected from the CCD will greatly help in this. Thanks for any input you may have.
  17. I recently posted about my first successful collimation experience (an SCT). I'm sure we all have our stories, of those moments when we perceived optical clarity. Come on everyone tell us of those collimation 'eureka' moments and your experience of your first observing session immediately following. Paul.
  18. I had a moment of optical understanding this past weekend. Our stargazing group were away at our favourite dark skies site in the Scottish Highlands for an observing weekend. Weeks prior to this I swapped out the old phillips collimation screws on my 8" EdgeHD for a set of Bob's Knobs knowing that I would need to re-collimate after the installation. Sure enough the optics were way out, I spent the next 3 weeks waiting for a weather break that I could take advantage of. Sadly no such opportunities arose to get the scope collimated, the result being that I knew I had a collimating exercise to go through before I would be able to carry out any observing. So on arriving at our observing site, I immediately set up an artificial star at about 90ft distance from the scope (being new to collimating an SCT I wanted a stationary target to work with), and set about collimation. After about 20 mins at about 200 mag, I believed I had the collimation decently in order. Following recomended procedure I then bumped the mag up higher (about 400), and with the typical degree of defocus things still looked good, I then proceeded to bring things into focus. As I adjusted the focuser closer and closer to focus I noticed that one corner of the image seemed to be coming into focus significantly sooner than the others, resulting in the typical comatic image of an uncollimated set of optics. I compared this image from memory to what I had been experiencing prior to installing the Bob's Knobs and thought that in all honesty this was pretty close to what I was getting before installation of the Bob's Knobs (I received the scope second hand from a recognised vendor in London, that unfortunately went out of business about 6 months later. I should also note at this point that up until this occassion I had not been able to collimate the scope due to the screws being seized in position). Was I happy with this level of collimation accuracy? Not really. Unfortunately I was now running out of daylight and wanted to start prepping for the nights observing. I hummed and hawed about what to do, live with what I believed was a tolerable image, or persist with collimation and risk compromising what I already had. Having read up considerably on the collimation procedure I had heard people referring to '...seeing an Airy disk...' and what I was seeing was certainly not that, so I determined to try and get things better. After a further 20 mins or so of tinkering, I believed I had the defocused image much more concentric, and proceeded to bring things into focus. As I wracked the focuser closer and closer to focus, I noticed that there was still a little variation in concentricity of the diffraction pattern, a little more adjustment was required. Then proceeding to focus, I noticed each outer fresnel ring disappear until I only had a central bright spot and two unbroken rings... Eureka!!!... so thats what an airy disk looks like. Further movement into focus and the remaining rings just disappeared simultaneously and I was left with a pinpoint image of the artificial star. At this point I locked the primary (observing focusing is done solely with a Baader Steeltrack). The moral of the story? Have the courage of your convictions. Proof was in the pudding that night as we experienced some excellent sky transperancy, seeing wasn't perfect but the double cluster in my newly collimated scope was just simply mind blowing, this is the first time I have seen the scope perform to the level implied by its name, pin-point stars from edge to edge across the entire field of view. Thanks for Reading Paul.
  19. Celestron 9.25" SCT AVX GOTO with EXTRAS Celestron 9.25" AVX SCT (bought in march 2017 from FLO). As new, in immaculate condition. 9.25” (235mm) f/10 Schmidt-Cassegrain includes StarBright XLT coatings. Tripod is a Celestron Advanced VX goto mount with Nextar+. Includes everything that came with the scope,6x30finder, 25mm plossl etc. Also includes.. Astrozap 9.25" Flexi-Heat Dew Shield. (RRP £73) Artesky Padded Bag. (to protect the OTA). (RRP £89.50) SkySync 16 channel GPS Accesory. (RRP £155) This is on ABS, lil bit cheaper on here. Collection Required. I have upgraded to a cpc 1100 (11") SOLD to Shaun Price: £1,300
  20. Read much on Celestron but not so much on Meade these days. How do the big 2 compare and with other SCT makes?
  21. Well... Had a go at cleaning the corrector plate on my 8" EdgeHD today with somewhat mixed results ?. While the glass is much cleaner than before, worrisome dew stains and what looked like pollen marks removed, I am stil less than happy with the results. When caught in the light correctly I can see streaks on the surface of the glass, no doubt left from the cleaning mixture and/or my cleaning technique. Cleaning solution is as recommended by Celestron 60% ISO and 40% distilled water. Also of concern is a coma shaped mark in the bottom left hand corner that I spotted prior to cleaning, and had hoped would be removed during the cleaning process. The mark can be clearly seen in the attached photo. Difficult to know whether the mark has been reduced as a result of the cleaning, possibly wishful thinking on my part. Would welcome some feedback from fellow members who have gone through this process, regarding my results, and also comments regarding the coma shaped mark. Before and after photos attached.
  22. Okay, the setup: I stayed out all night last night, set up the Edge 8 just before dark and viewed for a couple of hours before the Moon could come over the trees and fully wash out my sky, which was absolutely cloudless, with the best seeing since......probably last Spring. Unfortunately, the Full Moon rose about 8pm, so it wasn't a dark sky. I just looked at thing toward the north and west as much as possible. I took a break about 10pm, went in to get a cup of coffee, and Blade Runner-Director's Cut was just starting, so I had to get my sci-fi fix for the day. Went back out about 1:30am, the Moon was high by then and you could easily read a book by the light. Undeterred, I restarted my scope (AVX, used "last alignment" and it was dead-on). I was limiting myself to stars, looked at a bunch of doubles, and then I thought....clusters. M13 being rather far removed from where the Moon was, I skewed over to it and, expectedly, saw a dim blob, which would have been much better in a dark sky. So, I wondered if taking a picture would work. I had a 13mm Ultima Duo eyepiece in, it's threaded for a T-ring, so I attached my D3400, set it to bulb and ISO 6400, and commenced shooting some EPP, starting at 10 seconds and working up to 30 seconds at 5 second intervals. I had to shoot quite a few, checking focus and adjusting as I went, but finally got something you could identify. I looked at M42 for quite a while, managed to split Rigel, looked for a while at Alnitak. I considered looking for "attack ships burning off the shoulder of Orion" (movie quote from replicant Roy Batty). I saved my eyes for the last, looked at the Moon, unfiltered, then broke everything down and went inside about 4:30 am. Nothing fabulous, but for a bright night and early AP effort, I'm happy with the outcome. This is a single-exposure at 27.5 seconds, ISO 6400.
  23. I just finished a transport box for my Edge 8" and AVX mount. I'd built a similar setup for the C6 I have, I wanted something I could use to store the telescope and mount in that would protect it, plus have something to make it easier to transport when going afield for viewing or AP. This is made from 1/2" birch veneer plywood, it's nothing really fancy, just butt joints, glue and brass screws . I wanted it to remain more utilitarian than "furniture", but dressed it up a little with brass hardware and a nice stain and polyurethane finish. It's in two pieces to make it easier to lift and pack into a vehicle; one box for the OTA, the other for the mount and accessories. These two boxes clamp together and fit on a small hand truck that can be used vertically or horizontally. The tripod I plan to get a bag for, and will strap it to the outside somehow, and all my EP and diagonals are in a separate case. The only other thing I'll have to hand carry is my dew shield. The OTA box is padded with foam rubber cut to fit and covered in a heavy upholstery fabric, the mount uses the large closed-cell cutout that it came shipped in, I dimensioned the box so it would slide in or out, so I can still use the cutout if I ever have to ship the mount for repairs, etc (hope not). Both the OTA and mount have retaining straps with quick-release buckles. Alongside the mount are compartments for gear; I have the counterweights, dew heater, controller and power cord for the mount, the finder scope for the OTA, a couple of field books and my notebook and manuals, and an accessory weight for the OTA. There's still room for other stuff, and I suppose it won't take me long to fill it up. The last picture shows both carriers. The one for the C6 will also carry the tripod.
  24. Hey everyone, I have yet another query.... So, attached are 2 pics I snapped with my phone last night. The first was taken through a zoom ep at about 12mm. The second was through a 25mm plossl. I see a noticeable color difference, so my question is which one is true? or better yet, which eyepiece yields the truest color? I have also seen it mentioned that sct's take away some contrast, but do ep's also have an effect on this?
  25. Good morning (well at least here in TX) all. I will try and keep this brief. My son and I are looking to upgrade from a cheap newtonian. I have been reading until my eyes bleed as to hopefully not come off as a complete noob but as an active member of other enthusiast groups I find it can be a better use of time to ask those who have "been there and done that". I am considering this listing and have verified it is at least still available. The owner has owned it for 12 years and its a basic GOTO not GPS. Also appears to be a GEQ (I think) which is good as I would like to dabble in photography as well. Given the age of the thing but also considering the additional equipment is this a fair deal or is he asking too much? Thanks again, I appreciate any and all input!
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