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Found 76 results

  1. Aenima

    Bi-colour NGC7000 Wall

    From the album: CCD venture

    A h-alpha and OIII shot of the Wall section of NGC7000 aka north america nebula. Processed to resemble the hubble palette colour scheme. ED80 - ATK16HR - Ha clip filter - EQ6 - finderguider 9x50mm PhD2 - photoshop - DSS.
  2. From the album: CCD venture

    A h-alpha shot of the pelican nebula in Cygnus. 2 x panel mosaic. 10 min subs. 9 x 10m + 9x10m stacks stitched together in ms ICE. ED80 - ATK16HR - Ha clip filter - EQ6 - finderguider 9x50mm PhD2 - photoshop - DSS.
  3. I am going through the motions of properly processing my first narrowband image. Perhaps there is no difference here to LRGB, but I am curious as to which method people favour for their work-flow and why: A: Combine the channels (using SHO palette in my sitution) and then apply DBE; or B: Apply DBE to each channel and then combine? Mainly interested in nebulae. Thanks in advance for any thoughts on this.
  4. Hi guys Been busy the last wee while, so haven't done much imaging lately, but i did at least finally get around to processing my Soul Nebula data from a couple of weeks back. So this is 220 mins of Ha, and the same again of OIII, all 20 min subs. With the usual 30 flats and 50 Bias, with aggressive dithering. Shot through a SW 80ED on a HEQ5 Pro mount. Captured in SGP, pre-processed in APP, and post-processed in Photoshop. I used a slightly different method this time. Normally, i stretch the OIII data to the absolute limit, and then combine the stacks in Photoshop, but this time i used APP instead. APP has a nice feature that lets you multiply data, so i basically applied an x5 factor to the OIII data, and then assigned the Ha and OIII to G and B channels respectively (as per the standard SHO model) and then used a blend of 20% Ha and 80% OIII for the Red channel. The resulting RGB image was then imported into Photoshop for everything else. I'm still to decide on whether or not i prefer this method, but i do like how the colours came out with this one. I deliberately left the green alone, rather than take it out, as i think it adds more depth to the image. Although somewhere during my processing i noticed that the image had been converted from 16bit down to 8bit and i didn't realise until it was too late :-( I'm still unsure how that happened exactly, perhaps after running an action, i don't know really. Anyhow, i certainly wasn't for going back to the drawing board so i decided to finish it off all the same. C&C welcome as always guys. Thanks for looking.
  5. Hello everyone! I'm buying my first telescope, a Skywatcher Skyliner 8" dob, and I'm thinking of buying a 1.25" UHC filter with it to get improved views of all kinds of nebulae. The shop where I'm buying has the following UHC filters to choose from: Explore Scientific UHC Filter (€ 51) Optolong Premium UHC Filter (€ 52) Omegon UHC Filter (€ 58) Astronomik UHC-E Filter (€ 64) Baader UHC-S Filter (€ 79) Astronomik UHC Filter (€ 95) Lumicon UHC Filter (€ 193) They also have some other filters which are not categorized as UHC filters, but I think should be: Skywatcher Deepsky Filter (€ 52) Orion SkyGlow Broadband Filter (€ 79) -> more Light Pollution (LP) than UHC I guess Orion UltraBlock Narrowband Filter (€ 99) Thousand Oaks LP-1 and LP-2 Broadband and Narrowband Nebula Filters (€ 105) -> again Broadband probably more for LP I guess Lumicon Deepsky Filter (€ 193) I'd rather not spend 193 euros on the Lumicons (although I've read good reviews about those), but which one is the best one apart from the Lumicons? I've been searching a lot on Google for threads about this and UHC filters seem to be the best allrounder, but every time different filter brands and types are discussed and I just can't make up my mind with all the information out there. I know there are broadband and narrowband (true?) UHC filters, but I guess most of the ones I listed are broadband? I've also read that broadband filters (which are more for LP than UHC I think) and especially Light Pollution filters aren't really that effective at all, especially compared to narrowband... Or should I not be buying a UHC Filter for a first telescope in the first place, and just get used to the unfiltered views lol? I believe my night sky light pollution level is around level 6 to 7 (Bortle scale). If someone has some personal experience here with one or more of these filters, your opinion would be very much appreciated :-)
  6. Managed a reasonably decent imaging session last weekend and had a go at one of my favourite little targets M97 The Owl Nebula in Ursa Major imaged 04.05.2018 William Optics FLT-110 refractor and Atik 314L monochrome CCD with Baader narrowband filters 10 x 300 seconds H-Alpha, 10 x 300 seconds H-Beta and 10 x 300 seconds OIII Assigned to R, G & B channels respectively to give a false colour image
  7. Hi, These Baader Narrowband 2'' mounted filters are for sale. In perfect condition! No dust, scratches. I have barely used them and now I have switched to QSI 36mm unmounted. Baader 2" H-Alpha Filter - 7nm for astrophotography - 140 GBP Baader 2" O-III CCD Filter - 8.5nm - 110 GBP Baader 2" S-II Sulfur Filter - 8nm -110 GBP 360 GBP Total price. I prefer not to split them. Thank you!
  8. While i was indeed satisfied with my HaRGB picture of M27, i couldn't resist giving a bicolor a go as i only needed some OIII data. Taken with the QHY5L-II-M and the Explorer 200. Camera cooled, i can't remember exact temp, but i believe around -10c. 7nm Ha: 47x 60 sec, gain = 1000 in firecapture 8.5nm OIII: 60x 60 sec, gain = 1000 in firecapture
  9. Hi everyone, Long, long time since I've posted. Finally some clear skies in my Summer holidays to take advantage of! Full version on AstroBin: http://www.astrobin.com/full/210107/0/ Ha: 28x10min OIII: 32x10min 10hrs Total, Atik 314L+, ED80 I started a 2nd pane in Ha but I'm off back to university now so I won't finish it in colour this year. Thanks for looking! Jordan
  10. Does anyone here use very narrowband filters with very fast systems? Currently I have a set of 12nm bandpass Ha, SII, OIII filters from Astronomik. Even with my existing kit, that isn't narrow enough for the length of exposures I want to do, and I'm thinking about getting much narrower ones. But I also tend to work at very fast optics. E.g. I historically tended to use f/2 at 2 minute exposures, which most of the time was already light pollution limited. Since I got an EQ6 I've dabbbled up to 8 minutes, and I might get a little more depth but the background is definitely the limiting factor there. So, any tips on very narrowband filters and fast systems? Being realistic, I need to slow the optics down anyway as I move to longer focal lengths, so I guess how narrow can I realistically go at say around f/2.8? I notice that Astrodon suggest their 5nm filters are workable at f/2, and the 3nm is good for f/3.5. But their data is based on a very large 50x50mm target area, so the light ray angle variation in the middle of that would be reduced further.
  11. From the album: Genesis Observatory

    Sadr region of Cygnus, done in narrowband Ha: 9x600" bin 1x1 OIII: 6x600" bin 2x2 SII: 8x600" bin 2x2
  12. From the album: Deep Sky Objects

    The Ring Nebula (Messier 57) is a planetary nebula in the constellation Lyra approximately 2300 Ly from earh. Planetary nebula are formed when ionized gas is expelled by a red giant star, which was passing through the last stage in its evolution before becoming a white dwarf. Taken in narrowband using the California, France, Hawaii Telescope palette (Hα = Red, OIII = Green, SII= Blue) Unfortunately my OIII data was slightly out of focus the the results is not a good as it could be. If you want to know more the asttobin link is: http://www.astrobin.com/255438/
  13. From the album: Deep Sky Objects

    My first attempt at narrowband imaging. For more detail the astrobin link is: http://www.astrobin.com/254346/B/
  14. From the album: Deep Sky Objects

    My first attempt at narrowband imaging. For more detail the astrobin link is: http://www.astrobin.com/254346/0/
  15. From the album: Widefield DSO

    Large region of Cygnus presented in Hubble palette, or at least the nearest I can get to it.
  16. Finally completed my SHO version. There is some purple in the image I cannot figure out how to get rid of and I'm sick of playing with it. Hints and tips on how to get rid of it welcome, I'm using PixInsight. https://pbase.com/grahammeyer/image/169136922 Scroll to the bottom for size options and details. Thanks for looking!
  17. Hey-ho So then, just as i thought the DSO season was well and truly over for me until late August/early September, as it turned out last Saturday night (May 5th) was mostly clear, so i set about trying to finish the NAN image i had captured in Ha a while back (see thread below): So all i needed was some OIII. It's obviously not the ideal time of year to capture this i know, as it's so low on the horizon, but beggar's can't be choosers so i tried my best to make the most of the small amount of astro dark time available and just make the best of it. In the end i managed 9 subs, two of which were sub-standard due to passing clouds, but as is my want these days i still asked APP to stack them (using the Quality setting) and it didn't seem to affect things. So in total this is: Ha: 7 x 480s, 6 x 1200, 13 x 1200 (a little over 7 Hrs) OIII: 9 x 1200s (3 Hrs) RGB (with IDAS-D1 filter): 20 x 60s The usual Flats & Bias, stacked in APP and processed in PS. Gear used: Nikon D5300 (modded); SW 80ED (510mm FL); HEQ5-Pro; SGPro and PHD2. The RGB subs were used solely for the stars. I still need to get better at merging them with the NB channels, i'm not as good as i'd like to be at controlling them. Although in this instance, i did mask the stretching of them, and it definitely helped, but i need to practice this to get better at it. I think the fact that the RGB stack (even at just 20 mins) contained some nebulosity didn't help things. When it's just stars and nothing else, it's so much simpler to combine them. So this is just a Version 1 for now (i'll try an sSHO next). I used Ha for Red, OIII for Blue, and used one of Carboni's Actions to synthesize the Green channel. Then went round and round in circles trying to find a colour balance to my liking (on my rubbish monitor!) so i'd love to hear what you guys think. Too dark? Too much saturation? (i tend to do that, lol). I also couldn't decide on orientation, so have included two different ones. Which do you guys prefer? All C&C welcome. Don't hold back! I'm always looking for ways to improve. Clear skies!
  18. I think I'm done with the Hydrogen layer for these nebulae. I started 3 weeks ago a 4 panel mosaic with the 130PDS. I shot around 2h on each panel in 180s subs at 300 gain. And recently I thought to lower the noise in the darker areas and I shot another 7h with the Canon 300 F4 L and I combined the dark areas. I see now that I should have taken more frames with the scope as the quality of the image taken through the lens is way lower. Anyway, I still combined them a bit. The plan is to add LRGB too in the future and perhaps some O3 as well. Full resolution 16 bit .png here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByhJ_xuQxcnjNjdyMUpqSkJFYUU And, in order: the image taken with the lens, the one with the scope and the blend. Thoughts are welcomed. Clear skies, Alex
  19. Hi My first serious go at a narrowband image taken over a few nights from my back garden in not-so-darkest North Staffs Ha: 30 x 300s OIII: 28 x 150s R: 22 x 30s G: 22 x 30s B: 22 x 30s (I also took a whole load of L lights but didn't use them in this versions - still feeling my way in to NB imaging) RGB lights used for star colours only. Calibration: Bias and flats, no darks (dithering) Ha used for Luminace and Red channel OIII used for Blue and Green channels Equipment list in sig
  20. EQ6-R Pro, ASI1600MM, ED120 + 0.85x reducer, Astronomik 6nm Ha filter. 2 hours integration (30x240s) 50 darks, flats and dark-flats. Windy night, near full moon Captured via SGP, Guiding PHD2, Processed in photoshop. This is why I wanted to get into narrowband imaging, Taken on Sunday night from south Edinburgh (Bortle class 6) with a nearly full moon in the sky (95%) and I can still make the most of the limited opportunities we get here. OIII filter is next on the list.
  21. It seems that none of my glass optics doesn't want to play nice anymore. I started this 2 panel mosaic while shooting for the bubble area, on Ha, with the Canon 300 F4 L lens. In the beginning it went better, but at some point the IS elements decolimated and I just couldn't luckily align it ok again (by attaching back to the camera and focusing with the IS on and then detaching it). I tried one round with the O3, but then I switched to the Tair 3s. The total on this target is like this: 6 h of Ha on each panel, 1:x h of Canon O3 + 1:15 of Tair O3 on each panel. That means ~17h in total. I might want to try to add more O3, but it's only a hope. The moon comes again and the forecast doesn't seem nice the next days. I need a proper scope. I think now that the Soul is stretched more than the Heart, it didn't seem last night. Full res here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByhJ_xuQxcnjZlQ2Rkw3NUR2S0U Thoughts welcomed. Clear skies, Alex
  22. Hi all,just wanting to pic someone's brains.. As normally with a DSLR imaging during a full moon seems to be a waste of time and as a Ha filter cuts throu the l.p. a little,is it possible to do some HA narrowband imaging with a DSLR? I have a 12nm Ha filter,would that work or does the bandwidth have to be narrower to cut the l.p. out.. so it be like a Ha,rgb image..Or is this just for the ccd owners?
  23. This is 63 x 300s with a 7nm Ha Altair filter, so a total of 5 hours and 15 minutes. It needs much more and perhaps some longer subs too before I start collecting the O3 data to go with it.
  24. Hi all, I wanted to buy my first narrowband filter. I decided on a 7nm Ha filter. Among the options, there were the Baader 7nm and the Optolong 7nm. I chose the Optolong even though I heard that the colour ones are Astronomik copies. However, I searched some comparisons between the Baader and the Optolong and the Baader seemed to have some halos. I decided on the Optolong. However, I don't have a proper imaging camera and for a while I'll be testing it with the ASI120MM I have. Plans for a larger sensor camera. Yesterday I received the filter and had some tries on M42. My balcony window opens to NEE so M42 is a tough target. I can only point the scope to it on EQ mode only before it reaches 15deg. So I had to switch to AZ mode where a scope can reach almost out of the balcony with the counterweight bar extended. Very good AP setup. Anyway, I attached the ASI120MM to a Tair3s lens, wide open this time at F/4.5 and put them on the AZ-EQ5 in AZ mode. ~40x10s + 70x2s. Gain 70/100. With calibration files. I don't know what to try this evening if it's clear. What do you think about putting the camera on a 135 F/2.8 lens and drizzling 2x? Did anyone of you try drizzling and had a successful result? Clear skies, Alex Edit: I don't know what I've done to have the white frame, I didn't notice it until now. It was probably after combining the 10s image with the 2s one.
  25. Not posted for a bit, but I did recently capture some half way respectable OIII data for the Crab, which I've here combined with some Ha/S/Lum data from last year - some of it reprocessed. This is with the C9.25 with reducer and Atik 460, which I think gives a nice image scale for this object if you want to see the pulsar properly and a bit of structure (but don't bother at this scale without an off-axis-guider). Colourful Ha(red)/S(green)/O(blue) palette :-). (About 12 hours all in) Tim
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