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Found 151 results

  1. Ok, so i had my first run at planetary imaging yesterday evening, which was disappointing to say the least :/ I was trying mars. The setup went smooth, and imaging went ok as well, but the seeing was very bad and especially the heat of the atmosphere was high, which blurred the images to the point that mars' image was not even a sphere (see left image). There are , however, also other probable issues: + Short focal length (800mm) with an 8mm EP, resulting in only medium magnification + problems with focusing the blurred image + missing real astro darkness (24th of june) + days' high was around 28 deg c, although it had cooled down to 22c at imaging time... Have you guys & girls tips on how to improve? The resulting image from stacking 1600 out of 3800 images was a mess, but at least spherical
  2. For sale, excellent condition (no marks on the body) very low shutter count under 4000. The IR cut filter has been removed for more response on red (spectrum) emission nebula. Comes with battery and charger, and cable to connect to computer. Full computer control with software like APT, live view, 12 mega pixel, the camera also feels lighter than its previous model 1000D. Message me for more info..........price £165 which includes special delivery.
  3. Hello, first time poster here :-) There is plenty of software out there for imaging on Windows but what about us fellos who are running Linux? I am looking at getting my first astrophotography rig and I'd like to keep it as cheap as possible. A new laptop could be within budget but I'd like to avoid if possible, the money could be spent on better things. I'd be using my DSLR, at least to start with. What are the options, capture & processing wise, if any?
  4. I went out this evening to image Venus, I'm just after starting planetary imaging and I want to get as much Venus images as I can before it gets too low in the sky. I recorded a 1500 frame video of Venus and I stacked and processed the image in Registax 6.1. I was surprised by my image and I'm glad it turned out alright, definitely my best Venus image so far. Tell me what you think! I would love to hear your opinions, and most importantly how I can improve. Thanks and clear skies! Adam
  5. Hi guys, I have few unfinished books but still want a new one ("Making every photon count"). I was wondering if someone has it in good condition and is selling it at a good price AJ
  6. The principle of this triple imaging rig is to have three virtually identical imaging systems using Atik 460EX cameras and vintage ex-SLR high quality camera lenses as used on the Asahi Pentax SLR camera. Various focal lengths are available and these old lenses are readily available at sensible prices on that well known auction site. When used for narrow band imaging these lenses perform superbly and the narrow bandwidth eliminates chromatic aberration. Each lens/camera covers a very narrow part of the spectrum and is individually focussed. Following on from my earlier thread I have decided to start a new thread for my widefield triple imaging rig as there has been a big change in the design. The camera and lens arrangement has gone from three in a row to a triangular (turret) arrangement. The other thread was getting rather long as well. My latest design is also different from the previous turret in that the earlier one used an OAG on one of the lenses for guiding but I have decided to go for a separate guide scope placed between the imagers in the centre. I am going to try the finder scope from an ST80 with LodeStar guide camera (removing the eyepiece and crosshairs and replacing with an adapter to take the LodeStar). The idea of the turret is to enable me to frame the DSO in the oblong imaging frame to best advantage while guaranteeing that all images remain aligned but without changing the balance. Once the image is satisfactorily framed the turret will be locked in position so that it doesn't change during imaging. The guide scope and camera will remain fixed and aligned with either RA or Dec axis of the mount for more reliable and predictable guiding. To provide the above I propose to have a fixed aluminium tube through the middle carrying the guide scope with facility to change the pointing angle to capture a good guide star. As usual, once set this will be fixed during the imaging run. The main triple imaging system turret will rotate on this central tube.
  7. Hi All, I'm considering the purchase of a Panasonic toughbook (Amazon reseller refurb unit) to use outdoors to control my mount, skyris camera etc. I was planning to use my vaio but am a little concerned whether I could have problems with dew / damp weather. What do others use, does the heat from a laptop resolve the dew issue, any thoughts on the toughbook - advice / guidance / warnings appreciated. Regards, Tony
  8. I've decided i'm going to look into making a imaging netbook my next purchase. I was going to go for a guiding set up next and i probably will do before Christmas but it makes more sense to get the netbook first. I liked the sound of the Samsung Chromebook but i dont think they are suitable at all unfortunately. I've read people throwing the words Acer and Dell around but have very limited knowledge when it comes to PCs ect. Besides, the threads i was reading were from a couple years back. So whats the best netbook to get nowadays? I can spend around £150-200. Obviously its for imaging so it will be running at least PHD and Backyard EOS, probably Stellarium. Not sure what others as i'm not there yet!
  9. Got a fairly simple question here that i've been thinking about. Are there any barlows designed for imaging? I dont own a scope yet but i'm always thinking about the rig i am trying to build. I started reading about reducers earlier and then that got me thinking about increasing a scopes focal length. Would a barlow distort or exaggerate any optical flaws the glass may have? Or even cause a loss of contrast or colour? I had never searched for a barlow so i was quite surprised when i seen they are much much cheaper than i thought they would be. All around the same price. Is there a 'high end' barlow lens that would be a better choice to use over others? This is all just late night chit-chat really a barlow lens will not be in my kit for a while yet probably, its in the double digits of a long list! I'm just curious Cheers
  10. I need some advice on how to get the detail up and the size of Jupiter. My goal is to get to a postcard print worthy imagine (for personal use.) I am using a 127mm Mak (F11) on a EQ5 Pro and imaging using a QHY5LII (Colour) Current progress - Some detail but lack size / detail and colour for my print. Some questions that I need advice on: Jupiter rotation: I have heard that you should not exceed about 90 seconds? (I just use a image limit 1000 not a time limit @ 5FPS = 3+Min) Barlow: Should I increase to F22 or F44? (Currently I stick to native F11) Filter: What is the preferred Filter to use? (I sometimes use a moon filter.) Format: Raw format and debayer in PIPP or Registax? (I have real problems with Raw so I capture in BMP at 800 by 600 or larger for moons.) Once I have captured the raw data based on your advice. I will process and repost to get more advice.
  11. Hello all I wanted to ask those that already use EQMOD what are the main benefits of using it. I have a eq6 and I currently use synscan BUT I have just loaded up cart du ciel with EQMOD and moved my mount for the first time. Lovely! What do people think of it? Does it help with imaging? Can it help with better alignment? I'm particularly interested in this. If some of you out there use it please give me a list of things that you use it for where it outshines synscan. Gerry
  12. Hi there, I currently have access to a Skywatcher 200p and am loving it although imaging is a bit tricky with it for deep sky objects. However I will be losing access to it later this year. This obviously means I need to reach into my pockets and buy something for myself. My main aim is to photograph the Messier list of objects which means I need some sort of tracking scope setup. My question is which one...? I'm not looking to break the bank so preferably something under £1000 but if that isn't possible then I could go a little bit higher... Portability would be useful but not an absolute must. I currently have a DSLR so that would need to be able to be fitted to it as I can't quite justify buying one of the proper sky cameras at the moment. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Simon
  13. Just thought I'd share my experiences of trying to put together a remote setup, which I'm implementing to keep my tootsies warm as winter approaches. The main reason I'm writing this down is so that others can see my setup in case they're looking for a similar implementation. So I'd heard that people had tried using a Raspberry Pi as a server running VirtualHere to control their mounts and cameras from the warmth of their living rooms. There were two main problems that I'd seen, as follows: 1. The RPi isn't really quick enough to handle the traffic for the entire setup 2. VirtualHere only allows the connection of a single device without purchasing a licence. Well, I decided to kill two birds with one stone - multiple Pis! Each Pi acts as a VirtualHere server and as such, shows up as an individual USB hub in the VH client (which I'm running in Windows on boot camp on an iMac - three OS's is one day, yay!) This means that you may use one device on each Pi without needing a license. Now obviously this is only useful if you have spare RPis hanging around - otherwise you might as well just buy an RPi 3 (quicker than earlier models) and a VirtualHere licence. Each Pi used will require its own power source, so be ready for some spaghetti. You also need to be aware of the range limitation on the Pi3's wifi adapter - I had to move mine a few inches closer so that the connection was stable. I do have a more powerful dongle adapter on the way which should help with this. You also need to be aware of latency when taking images - I set the DSLR imager to store the images on its own SD card rather than transferring to the Pi, but the latency is still noticeable. However, APT (which I was using for capture) just waits a bit longer between images. TBH this is quite useful as it gives the setup a chance to settle down from any mirror related vibrations! As for guiding, I can't tell you the results yet as it's a full moon tonight, so I haven't tried anything DSOey yet. That will come. However, tracking and GoTo functioned well, so I think Autoguiding should be OK - I've connected the camera (QHY5v) in the daytime and I got a moderate frame rate which I suspect will be sufficient for PHD. The big limitation in my design is the lack of an electric focuser, so until I can buy one of them, I have to run outside and tweak repeatedly until it comes right. My plan is to drive the focuser via the RPi's GPIO pins. I might build this myself but the only steppers I have are salvaged from an EQ3 and are really very slow. I will most likely buy a VH licence soon, but whether or not that will then allow sufficient data transfer and control speeds through a single RPi 3 remains to be seen. Anyway, hope this proves useful to someone somewhere. I'll update it when I test the autoguiding and (hopefully) the focuser.
  14. Hi guys, I've been looking at Genius Facecam 2000 webcam for astrophotography use and it seems intriguing. It has a 2-megapixel CMOS sensor and a manual focusing, which seems quite good for modding, but it's hard to tell if it's wort trying, I have found no reference to astrohptography modding of it anywhere on the internet. I was wondering if any of you have experience with this webcam for astrophotography use? If so, share your thoughts.
  15. After nearly 2 years of visual only I may my first tentative foray into the murky world of imaging on Monday night. This was taken using a Tal 100RS (F10), EQ5 with motors (not guided) and a Phillips SPC900nc. I ran the video through Registax and had a bit of fun tweaking the wavlets but the results are not the success that I had hoped and I wondered if anyone had some suggestions. I think I need to Barlow the webcam for a start as there is almost no fine detail in the images. Rob
  16. I've just bought a Daystar Solar Scout 60mm DS for H-alpha imaging of the Sun. I am now looking for a suitable camera to use with it. I know I could use my DSLR, but for H-alpha that is not going to give best results, so am looking for a dedicated monochrome imaging camera. I have identified the ZWO ASI178MM as a possibility that fits my budget and has a large enough (I think) sensor to image the entire Solar disc if I use a 0.5 focal reducer which will give me a total focal length of 465 mm. Does anyone have any experience of this camera in this application, or know if it will be suitable? I know it does not have an IR blocking filter, which I understand is an advantage for H-alpha. The spec is available here: https://www.rothervalleyoptics.co.uk/zwo-asi178mm-usb-30-monochrome-cmos-camera.html Thanks Mandy
  17. Aenima

    Jupiter & moons

    From the album: 2013/2014 planetary

    First light with the ZWO ASI120MC planetary camera.
  18. From the album: CCD venture

    A h-alpha shot of the pelican nebula in Cygnus. 2 x panel mosaic. 10 min subs. 9 x 10m + 9x10m stacks stitched together in ms ICE. ED80 - ATK16HR - Ha clip filter - EQ6 - finderguider 9x50mm PhD2 - photoshop - DSS.
  19. Hi everyone, One and a half clear nights for me early in the year and I focused on M45. As a naked eye visible target, I think subconsciously I never gave M45 the concentration it deserves, thinking I could always catch it another time. Anyway, despite lusting after the Horsehead, I kept my refractor pointed at the seven sisters in new moon skies and the result is below. I actually found it pretty hard to process...the seven sisters themselves were pretty well behaved, but I couldn't decide what to do with the background. I know this is a dusty region so I did not want to put DBE samples everywhere. But at the end the background seems a bit smudgy after tweaking curves - I'm not sure whether to darken the background or leave it as is. 3.4 hours of LRGB integration. Full details on Astrobin. Thanks for looking!
  20. Hello. I am using a Orion xt8 reflector telescope. I am wondering what optic / eyepiece set up I should be using for a mix of DSO and planets. I have a couple pictures which I have taken with honestly my cell phone on one of those (Omi cellphone adaptors for telescope) and they pictures don't come out to bad... but I am looking for something that I can actually put into the eye piece that will give decent looking pictures, or even one that I can hook up to my computer and look through it live. Price really is not the biggest issue but not really looking for something over $400. I know there might not be such a thing as I am describing. most of these pictures were taken with a 2x barlow and a 20mm The ones of mars I just took with a 5x barlo and the same 20mm. and I am unsure what this star formation I took a picture of is but It looked pretty cool and I am glad that I was able to take a picture of it.. But just looking for some help choosing what camera would be best. (Obviously using the phone camera the objects appear so bright and there is no way to pull the actual detail of the planet into focus for me) But any help would be great :) Thank you for any feedback you have and I cant wait to become more active on this forum!
  21. Hi All, I purchased a GSO 6" f/4 Newtonian "Astrograph" late last year and eventually found that stars on one corner were egg shaped while taking images. I narrowed it down to improper centering of secondary mirror from the factory and resulting tilt. Long story short, after numerous iterations, I used the Advanced Newtonian collimation technique by Astro Shed guy and ended up with the below pic of the optics. Does it look ok or do I need to do more? I will be checking with a Howie this weekend too.
  22. Hi Moving slowly up the steep AP learning curve with my SW 200 HEQ5 Pro and Nikon D5500. Getting reasonable subs with 30 sec (max with intervalometer) until I get APT up and running. Looking to improve my equipment and not sure which is the next step, guiding or the belt mod. Comments appreciated. Regards Sunnie
  23. I'm pretty new to this whole astrophotography thing, specifically the whole image resolving and stacking part. I've been using registax 6 to edit the videos, and I think I'm pretty much done with an image of Jupiter I've been practicing on from a video of Jupiter I found on the internet. I was wondering what I should do to get rid of those weird ring things around the edge of Jupiter and maybe clean up and sharpen the edges all together. Any other tips you have that could make the image cleaner are very much welcome. Thanks!
  24. Hi, I am taking images with a Nikon D5100 and a 200 mm f/4 AI lens that I front stop to f/5.4. I also have an Hoya UV(0) filter attached. I have moderate to high LP from my backyard and I would like to add an LP filter to try to improve things. With a 200mm large nebular complexes are my main target but I am not too happy so far. I have a celestron AVX mount and I managed guiding to work, so I am not afraid of long exposures. On the long run I want to move to a mono cooled camera (ASI1600mm being my choice at the moment). With such a sensor format (I wouldn't consider spending more, so larger cameras are out) I can use 31mm filters in front of the camera, either with the lens or with a future small refractor I am also thinking of. For this reason spending a lot of money for a large filter to mount in front of the lens seems a waste to me. i fully realize that the Astronomik and Hutec CLS filters are amazing but I can't fit their cost in my development plan. Thus, I narrowed to the following three and would like to know what the people think about. 1) TS Optics 2" CLS filter https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/language/en/info/p4686_TS-Optics-2--CLS-Breitband-Nebelfilter-fuer-Beobachtung-und-Foto.html At only 55 euro is very actractive. The curve provided at the link is the filter density so it may still benefit leaving the UV filter under it. This is the one that would cut more light of the three. 2) Hoya red intensifier 52mm. this is a neodymium filter at 42 euro but seems cutting a bit less on the UV than the following, nearly three times more expensive one. 3) Baader neodymium filter 2" https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p511_Baader-Skyglow-Neodymium-2----more-contrast-on-Moon-Planets.html At 112 Euro this is way the most expensive I am wishing to consider. Looking at the transmission curve, the UV wouldn't be needed. If anyone has direct experience with those, I would love hear about it. I am particularly interested in opinions/experience with the TS Optics one. My modest attempts at DSO are here on astrobin https://www.astrobin.com/users/luter68/ Thanks a lot and clear skies!
  25. Hi, can anyone help with star detection in DSS. I have been getting some good images using my Star Discovery 150p and nikon d5100. I'm using a 2xbarlow as I know I can't gain prime focus on this OTA and keeping my exposures down to 25secs due to field rotation with it being a Altazimuth mount and this can also be corrected in processing. The problem I'm having is that when I put everything in to DSS and register the images, it detects hundreds of stars but when I stack them it tells me there's not enough stars and to change the threshold so it can stack more of the images! The threshold is already set all the way to the left at 2% I'm using 100 x 25sec exposures iso 1600, 25 x dark @ 25secs iso 1600 and 25 x bias @ 1/4000secs iso 1600 No matter what I do it will only stack the dark, the bias and 1x25secs exposure! Is there anyone out there that has had similar issues and can shed some light on this please.
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