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Found 11 results

  1. After a lot of thought on how best to mount my heritage 130, trying a photo tripod & not being 100% happy with vibration. I decided to make adapted tripod to accommodate the good dobsonion mount that comes with the scope. I purchased a small Goto tripod from astroboot for little money. Cut a top from a piece of MDF & painted it black. Drilled 3 holes through the top into the Goto mount & bolted it together. Cut down 3 22mm chair leg rubber feet & attached to the top for the dob feet to sit in securely. Placed a level bubble & strengthened the leg spreader with some washers to take up slack. The mount is light weight & really sturdy. All for the cost of around £45.
  2. Hey guys! Its me again... I know what you are thinking ? there is not such thing as a cheap mount for astrophotography...and i agree with you! I just want to know if there are any significantly cheap mounts (under 100 pounds) for my skywatcher heritage 130p that can give me maybe 15-30 sec exposure time max. Thanks Kronos
  3. Hey guys. After many years of waiting, I've decided to finally go for my first telescope. Yet, today find myself stuck between two excellent entry-level options, so I'm looking for some help. Before I get straight to my questions, I'd like to share some information about what I'm expecting to do with the equipment (among other stuff). - Objectives: Deep Sky, and some planetary observation. No interest in astrophotography, GoTo, or any other device (maybe/eventually in the future). - Budget: Given complementary I'll be getting a 2x Barlow (SkyWatcher; achromatic), and a starguider laser collimator (1.25-2), these are my two best available options to fit on its range. - Light pollution: Low-Med. Being that said, here are my questions: - Mount: After days of heavy research, so far hardly found a review about it; What do you guys think about the AZEQ AVANT type of mount?; Could it beat Dobsonians?; Would it be a better option in my case? and if so, why? - Conventional Tube vs Heritage's Compact Flex Tube: What are the differences (pros-cons) I can expect from one and the other? (despite no difference between mirrors and diameter). - Explorer 130P AZEQ AVANT (newbie question): Would it be possible to transport the whole structure armed from one spot to the other in my yard? Any help/opinion welcomed. Happy 2019!
  4. Is anyone able to offer some suggestions as to an eyepiece upgrade for my Heritage 130P? It came with a pretty OK 25mm eyepiece (and a less OK 10mm) and I've invested in a Celestron Omni 2 x Barlow and a Omni 15mm eyepiece. But I'm hoping to find a better quality eyepiece to replace the generic 25mm. Ideally I'd like something in the 25-20mm range - soemthing with a wide FoV for Deep Sky (mainly galaxies) observing. Thanks for your input.
  5. Hi guys, I have a Skywatcher Heritage 130p and I am looking for an upgrade to /additional eyepieces, mainly for planetary and lunar viewing. At the moment I have my eye on 2 eyepieces - a 6mm66º uwa 'gold line' eyepiece for about £20-30, and an 18mm Baader ortho eyepiece for £50 ish. However, I have recently come across the Celestron eyepiece kit for about the same price (maybe slightly more, but not much) as the 2 eyepieces previously mentioned eyepieces put together. What is the quality of the celestron eyepieces compared to the baader? I've heard that the baader is a good quality eyepiece and one that I wouldn't really have to upgrade in the future. On the other hand, the celestron offers many eyepieces, a barlow and some filters for a great value, but obviously if they are poor quality it may not necessarily be better. I currently only have the 'super' 25mm and 10mm stock eyepieces supplied, and live in the light polluted area of north London. Any other suggestions would be great as well, thanks Dan
  6. I wanted to be able to level my 130p and I want to be able to sit down to observe. So I butchered a tripod for a EQ2 mount ( bought for £20 from Astroboot) and added a plywood circle to form a table for the 130p. I now have a small robust table which can be leveled like a tripod. While I was at it I also added nut inserts to the bottom of the plywood board and some speaker spikes I had in my "dont throw anything away" box. M6 bolts would also fit. The board can be used as a leveling table separate to the tripod . Many thanks to Happy-kat for the setting circle patterns which I will be adding to the top board of the 130p.
  7. bigrbuk

    Jupiter retouched

    From the album: Jupiter

    Same shot as before, just processed in Photoshop to give a bit more brightness and colour
  8. Finally had a clear night which coincided with not being too tired, not busy, plus my better half was out for much of the evening. Even the toddler went to bed with no problems. I wanted to try out two things mainly. The first was a Synscan handset I acquired from Astroboot, and the second, also an Astroboot purchase as a present for the children was a Heritage 130P. This was without the base and ideal to go on either the Giro-WR or AZGTi. Being on a tripod makes it easy to get the eyepiece at a sensible height for the children. Tonight though, no short people around, I just got the chance to play myself. I setup in the back garden, eyeballed a level for the tripod then powered up. I now use the Tracer battery rather than the internal AAs and the mount now seems to slew with a little more purpose, lasts a lot longer obviously. Alignment was trivial. Power on, set the time, two star align choosing Vega to manually slew to first, centred in the 24mm eyepiece, then chose Polaris as the second star. It got close but not in the fov so I centred it again, alignment succesful. Note that I did not bother going to higher power for more accuracy, but I still found that most objects were within the field of view on gotos. A couple were just outside but easily found. I find the AZGTi very impressive, simple to use, compact but very effective. The Freedom find clearly works too as the alignment remained accurate even after moving the scope manually a few times. When I first used the mount a while ago it had backlash in az, and during the first use developed quite severe movement in alt. I was a bit disappointed and hoped I would not have to return it. I got instructions from Skywatcher via FLO and sometime later found the time to try them out. After removing the cover it was very clear how to adjust the two worm gears. They were both loose, explaining why I was getting movement. After a bit of experimenting I found a good compromise in adjustment and the mount now performs as I would expect. I acquired the handset largely because the mount will not work with SkySafari on an iPhone (well it will but you need two devices, one for the Synscan app and one for SkySafari, too cumbersome for me). The handset worked well. I actually find it easier to use when centring objects because you can feel where the buttons are without having to look up. The database is bigger in the handset, particularly for SAO doubles which is something I found lacking in the app. If they ever do manage to fix the mount so it works properly with SS I believe I can still have the handset connected to have the best of both worlds. The Heritage was not supplied with a Finder which I found a little annoying, I guess I didn't read the description fully, but the SkySurfer V fits to the mounting point without too much trouble so this problem was overcome. I tried a few targets first just to get the hang of things, Double Cluster which looked surprisingly good in the 24mm Panoptic, M57 was a tiny bloated star in the 24mm but at higher power showed its ring shape nicely. A brief comment about the Heritage focuser at this point. I actually find it better than I expected. Yes, there is some slop which is a little annoying but it was quite possible to achieve a good focus by gentle adjustment. My eyepieces these days are a set of BGOs plus a 3 to 6 Nag zoom and 24mm Panoptic. The BGOs focus much further in, so what I learned to do was find the focus point for the BGOs and then leave the focuser there. When swapping back to the Pan or Nag, I simply pulled them back out so they were in focus and then tightened the locking screws, followed by a little tweak to focus. This saved the frustration of winding in and out constantly. I will try the plumbers tape mod to improve the slop as I think this will really help. I keep wondering if there is a possible mod to put a decent focuser on the scope but actually it would be a shame to lose the simplicity and lightweight of this scope. Next stop the Double Double. Whilst this split just about (if you squinted a bit and used your imagination), it showed the collimation needed a tweak. Back to Vega and defocused star test showed it was a little off. Not disastrous but worthwhile tweaking. This proved very simple too, loosen the locking screws, then adjust, recentreing after each tweak to check. The beauty of such a small scope is that you can be looking in the eyepiece whilst adjusting, it took me a couple of minutes to get it looking good. Refocusing and immediately Vega looked much better. Back to the DD and it was much improved, a clearer split with the Nag at x130. Compared with the Tak, which gives beautiful bullseye stars it was still a little messy, flaring a little and nowhere near as clean or aesthetically beautiful, but the splits were there. What can you expect for such an entry level scope, good stuff. I had expected much worse diffraction effects from the single stalk secondary mount but the reality was it was a lot less noticeable than some scopes I've used with 4 vane spiders. They were 10, 12" and 16" scopes so the additional aperture and brightness will have caused the larger spikes but either way, the Heritage was very good in this respect. The sky appeared very clear and stable, best I've seen it for a while although the dew was quite heavy. At one point the secondary dewed up so I had to use a hair dryer to clear it. I think a lightweight shroud is needed to prevent dew and also to cut down glare from the open Truss design. So, other targets? Back to the Double Cluster to enjoy the improved collimation. Lovely star colours showing through. NGC457, an old favourite looking amusing as always M27 was faintly visible without filter, but I added a Baader OIII filter and that brought it out much more. Not much detail but not bad. The Blue Snowball was tiny in the 24mm, better at higher power but no sign of blueness. Darker sky and better dark adaptation needed I think. M31, normal fuzzy oval but M32 picked out well. No sign of 110, skies too bright. M45 was really nice. Could do with a slightly wider fov (not possible in this scope) but it fitted in and Alcyone with its three companions look lovely. The collimation was looking great and the star shapes surprisingly good. Alberio, lovely star colours in the 24mm Mizar, another old favourite, always delivers Polaris I was quite surprised with, the primary was nicely controlled and the little pinpoint secondary showed very clearly. Nice Somewhat optimistically I typed NGC6992 into the handset, with the OIII in the 24mm. To my surprise I could see the arc of the Eastern Veil quite clearly. Not much detail visible under local LP but I reckon a dark site would be quite rewarding. Panning across to 52 Cygni I could again see the Western Veil as it passes by the star. Impressive to see this from home with such small aperture. I'll get this scope under a dark sky soon to try it out further. Uranus was my last success of the night, clearly non stellar but presenting only a tiny white disk even at x162. No sign of colour, I suspect the frac would bring out more colour but would need to try as I can't remember. I've certainly seen it as a greyish green before but can't recall which scope that was in. Neptune was a possible but not sure as my phone died and I could not match the star fields to be certain. I also tried for Caroline's Rose without success. It should have been in the eyepiece but nothing there, I do find this quite a subtle target with the LP round here, more aperture required most likely. M81 and M82 were poorly positioned in my 'Heathrow Glow' direction so I could not see them either. So, a very good little session with this mount and scope combo. Next time I will pop the Tak on although the AZGTi does enjoy the lighter weight of the Heritage I think. For nebulae I suspect the additional aperture will be worthwhile too. A long old report in the end, apologies, just nice to have something to talk about even though the objects seen are hardly exotic! Pleased with the little 130P, very good value and performance and a great match for the AZGTi
  9. bigrbuk

    jupiter

    From the album: Jupiter

    First picture of Jupiter taken afocally and hand held. Equipment: Heritage 130P, Vixen NPL 10mm, TAL x2 barlow (perhaps - can't remember now!), Olympus XZ-1.
  10. Hello,i'm gonna buy the skywatcher heritage 100p(dobsonian reflector).Many people say that one of the first things you need to do is to collimate your telescope even though you just received it.Please tell what to do is this necessary and how can i collimate my telescope easiy if needed?
  11. Hi guys and gals There's been a lot of buying and some modding in the Souith Wales area and I have to admit some of it concerning the flocking of a scope took my interest. I live in a great position for observation but there is the dreaded light pollution to deal with, AND, I have a Heritage 130P which has an 'open structure' Anyway the original scope looks like this I removed the primary mirror and flocked the main tube. With the advantage of having the scope in this state I played with the idea of constructing a black card tube, which would slide into the main tube as the scope was closed down and of course would extend as the scope was opened, it too could be flocked and thereby give me a compact scope that would travel with me and give me a fully flock lined tube too These pics just ilustrate the other positions showing the tube extending etc. I also added a couple of layers of flocking to the end of the new tube extension which remains inside the main tube, this acts as a light trap and may eventually allow its use for solar, but I need to take care with this aspect In any event it will give me a higher contrast telescope for night observation and help with the light pollution Gordon
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