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Found 247 results

  1. Aenima

    M42 Up

    From the album: The next step.

    No introduction needed for this amazing nebula, very popular, and lovely to observe.
  2. Hiya, have absolutely no idea where to begin finding a camera for Astrophotography. And by that I mean - I know I want a canon but am unsure which to buy. It will be a second hand one. Does it need to be full frame ? Can any and all models be modified ? Is a higher pixel count the way to go ? What are the important things to look for in a DSLR ? any help would be great. Thanks Neil
  3. Hi guys I thought the DSO season was well and truly over for me, but the weather's been unusually clear here in N.I for the last while that i just couldn't help myself ? So even though there is no astro dark at this time of year up here at 54 degrees N, i decided i wouldn't let that stop me try for one last target. There was also a very big bright moon up as well, so i figured M13 was pretty much the only viable target for me. Of course, with just a wee SW 80ED to work with (at 510mm FL) i knew i didn't really have the FL to do this one justice, but having never shot a Globular Cluster before i was still excited to give it a go. So here it is: Shot on May 24 from Crumlin, N.Ireland 20 * 420s with the IDAS-D1 at ISO 200 10 * 60s with the IDAS-D1 at ISO 200 All frames dithered aggressively every frame Usual gear, Nikon D5300 on a HEQ5-Pro, guided with a QHY5 and PHD2, and captured with SGP. AstroPixelProcessor used for stacking, gradient reduction, and star colour calibration. Everything else done in Photoshop. The 60s subs were used just for the core. I'm kind of pleased with how it came out. Although i'm not completely sure tbh, as this is new ground for me, and if there's one area the wee 80ED does struggle a tad with it's with stars, and with a globular there's certainly nowhere to hide on that front! Also attached is a 100% crop showing just the globular cluster itself. C&C most welcome as always. Cheers guys!
  4. Hello! I tried imaging saturn last night along with jupiter (already posted jupiter results). It was the first time i could use my new 8 incher and my DSLR for planetary imaging. Info was captured at f/10, probably a little low for saturn but for jupiter it was alright, atmospheric conditions didn't allow for more than that really. I was pleased with the results. Please give me your feedback, Clear skies!
  5. Hey guys Here's a quick couple of WIP projects i have on the go. The NAN and NGC 7822. Just Ha for now, still need to capture the OIII. The NAN one is a bit of a long-running saga for me. I first tried to image it on my 2nd light of the newly-modded D5300 and Ha filter back in early October. Got a small number of cloud-affected subs before the clouds rolled in for good. Then tried again in mid November and the same thing happened again. It's been obscured for me since, due to the neighbour's house, but it's now visible again (just) although it's very low on the horizon and i need to stay up Very late to get it, so i tried yet again in late March and did get a decent amount of subs this time, although i've now realised that imaging at super low altitudes is not something i plan on ever doing again, as the guiding is not great and image quality is nowhere near as good as at higher altitudes. Things did improve once it got over 20 degrees, but it still wasn't brilliant tbh. As for NGC 7822, i captured this one just last night, April 5, between midnight and 3 am. Was in bed for 4:30 then up again for work at 7:15, so, err, today was fun, lol. When i realised it was going to be clear i frantically went on to DSO-Browser to try and find an Ha-friendly target, as there aren't many about these days, and the moon was coming up shortly after 01:00, so i was glad i discovered this one in the end. Hopefully it has enough OIII to make a good Bi-Colour image. I have until the end of the month to try and get it, fingers crossed. NAN: a little over 7 hrs in total. 7 x 480s, 6 x 1200, 13 x 1200. Stacked them all in APP using the 'Quality' setting. NGC 7822: 3 hrs in total. 9 x 1200s. Also stacked in APP using the 'Quality' setting. No real processing done on either, aside from a stretch and gradient reduction (for NGC 7822). I'll update the thread if i manage to get the OIII for either in time.
  6. Having recently replaced my astrophotography camera, I now have the old one up for sale on an astro site. However, doesn't hurt advertising it here Here is an astro modified Canon Rebel xsi which is the Canon 450D equivalent. It is "good" condition and fully working order but does have some light scratches to the rear screen. I have tried to photograph these but they do not show up when the camera is switched on Shutter count is 3860 which is extremely low. Also included are the following : Astronomik CLS clip filter which really is fantastic and makes a huge difference. It also adds additional dust protection. Battery system / dc coupler - connects to a figure of 8 lead (IEC C7 Power Lead) - I might have one spare if deemed absolutely necessary. This device provides permanent power to the camera for those long nights - brilliant ! 3 batteries and multi-voltage charger (mains / 12volt / 24volt) I do not have the original box but it can be posted to UK address. I would prefer collection (near Filey, North Yorkshire) but willing to post if you cover Paypal fees. I might have a couple more batteries in other camera bags !! Reason for sale is purchase of an astro modified Sony A7S with canon lens adaptor. Including a few photos taken with this camera. Two of these images were placed 1st and 3rd in two separate Astrofest competitions in Yorkshire (York and Hull). £120
  7. Hi everyone, im about to purchase my first astrophotography rig and was wanting some opinions on the best method to capture subs. I’m looking at using backyard EOS on my laptop to control the DSLR, but would using a shutter release cable be better/easier? Thanks.
  8. Hi guys We had a few hours of clear skies here on Saturday night, so I set about getting some O-III for the Western Veil, after I had collected the Ha last month. Thankfully, the moon wasn't around, so even though I didn't get that many subs (only 10) at least they were of good quality. I actually fell asleep during the capture, and woke up to a 'Sequence Aborted' message in SGP and the sight of PHD2 going mad due to thick clouds. Quickly ran outside and thankfully there was no rain about (phew!). I got 11 subs in total, but the last one was totally unusable due to the clouds. The 10th one was affected too, but still looked useable to me, given that I know from experience that APP's 'Quality' stacking mode would know to give it less of a weighting, so I kept it. So this is 15 * 1200s of Ha and 10 * 1200s of OIII (8 Hrs 20 mins in total). Taken with the usual gear: Nikon D5300 (modded); HEQ5-Pro and a SW 80ED. Calibrated with Flats, Bias, and a Bad Pixel Map. APP used for stacking and gradient reduction. Everything else done in PS (including running Carboni's 'Synthesize Green Channel' action). After now having processed both the Eastern & Western Veils, I have to say I have found them to be among the hardest targets to process that I've done so far (although it's still early days for me yet, think I'm still under 15 DSO's and counting). I'm not sure if it's down to the sheer number of stars, or the very faint nebulosity that seems to be everywhere, but I've found the background to be especially difficult on these ones. Getting the Ha and OIII nicely balanced before combining probably has something to do with it. I also tend to do gradient reduction (which seems to affect the OIII a lot more than Ha) on the individual stacks before I combine them, so I wonder if I'd be better just leaving it to later in the process? (which I had to do again anyway, as there was still a noticeable red gradient visible later in the workflow). Something to note, I did go quite heavy on the star reduction. More so than I normally would. I found it wasn't until I upped it significantly, that the nebulosity really started to take centre stage. I like the impact it has made to the image overall, but it made me feel a little dirty at the same time, lol (if that makes any sense). Also, this isn't actually the finished version just yet. I have a bit more work to do on the background and stars (which need their colour toned down in places - probably shouldn't have ran Carboni's 'Increase Star Colour', in hindsight I don't think it needed it). I was literally falling asleep at the monitor last night while attempting to finish it off, and in the end had to admit defeat. So hopefully I can get around to it later tonight. Then the next thing will be the big mosaic of both Eastern & Western Veils. I'm both looking forward to, and dreading it, in equal measures ? As always C&C warmly welcomed!
  9. Hi Stargazers, After a lot of work and help from the great Damian Peach I managed to get some really good images of Jupiter Mars and Saturn despite a total spend of just £100... and I made another bonkers Astrobiscuit video about it which I hope you enjoy. Mr Peach really helped me pick my nights to image and the other big surprise was how good the canon 600D is at planetary. All comments/ advice/ criticisms most welcome...
  10. Hello all, I recently collected some OIII data for my previous attempt of the Elephants Trunk. I used a 2" Astronomik 12nm filter inside my TS Imaging Star 71, riding in my dual imaging rig. I knew it would be very difficult to point the TS71 correctly and frame the Trunk with the OIII filter blocking so much light, so I was lucky to have this method which put it spot on target. I added the OIII data as a "lighten" layer to the original blue channel, then used some "selective colour" etc (alignment was done with Registar). The new image is a bit dark, I know, but that is intentional and I think it works well if watched in low ambient light. C&C most welcome. Used Nikon D7000 & NexGuide on HEQ5 Pro. Ragnar
  11. WARNING!!! The following post contains an entirely under-whelming image! With nothing but clouds here for what has seemed like forever, and no sign of any new data in sight, i decided to turn my attention to some test data i shot back in August of last year. The reason for choosing this, is that i wanted to see how far my processing skills had come along, and i knew this one would be a serious challenge, as i had basically everything working against me. I shot this near the end of August while testing out the new imaging laptop and rowan belt mod for the HEQ5 Pro (which i had installed the previous winter, but hadn't had a chance to properly test). At the time, we were living very near the City Centre, and only had a tiny back yard, so the only target available was the Pac-Man nebula. This is also before i had the D5300 modified for better Ha response. I did however use my IDAS-D1 filter, which enabled me to shoot 8 min subs. So here's a full rundown: 9 x 8 min subs (only 72 mins in Total) ISO 200 50 Bias and 30 Flats Stock Nikon D5300 with an IDAS-D1 filter Skies were SQM 18.7 (Bortle 6) AstroPixel Processor was used to stack (with x2 Drizzle), do an initial stretch, and then perform gradient reduction. Everything else was done in Photoshop. I've shown my previous (hideous!) attempt below as well, which was stacked in DSS and also processed in Photoshop. I should say, i don't think APP played too much of a factor in the improvements, it was mostly just down to better Photoshop skills. I know i didn't really need to drizzle, i just wanted the nebula to look a bit bigger, so went with the drizzle and then just trimmed the fat off the edges. Overall i was pleasantly surprised what came out at the end, given this was not much data, done with an unmodified camera in heavy LP. Anyways, just thought i'd share, to kill the boredom!
  12. The non-articulating screen neck ache solution? - inexpensive 7" HDMI led monitor - currently available for £30-£45 and ultimately able to be positioned just where you want it. Monitor: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/7-LCD-HD-800-480-CCTV-Monitor-PC-Screen-AV-RCA-VGA-HDMI-for-DSLR-Raspberry-PI/253200946214?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Articulated positioning arm: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/7-Inch-Articulating-Magic-Arm-Super-Clamp-Crab-Plier-Clip-for-Camera-DSLR-NEW/282248606812?hash=item41b753f45c:g:3OgAAOSw4GVYIb4i HDMI connecting lead for Canon: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HDMI-Mini-Type-C-Male-to-Standard-Male-Cable-Lead-Full-HD-1080p-1m-Gold-TV-HD/181537095355?epid=2068860597&hash=item2a44743ebb:g:754AAOSwNphWWzYX Neck pain!:https://www.voltarol.co.uk/pain-treatments/neck-pain/
  13. Hi all, This one is a composite from two of my telescopes : TS APO with reducer = FL 550mm F5.1 iso 800 : 13x20 min Ha + 6x20 min OIII TS Imaging Star 71 = FL 350mm F5 iso 200 : 82x3 min RGB (only Hutech IDAS LPS-D1 used) I am new to NB processing, so I followed this tutorial but also improvised some. Weather did not permit more OIII data, so I squeezed as much as I could out of it. To start with, I only used the green channel from those subs because that channel had the strongest signal. Filters are Astronomik 2" 12nm. Today I would have used iso 200 even for the NB pics, not 800, since I just learned that 200 is the optimal setting for my (dual) Nikon D7000´s. The small APO was attached to the HEQ5 Pro CW bar so imaging was done with both scopes simultaneously. 3 minutes exposures is max for the secondary camera due to some remaining flex in that part of the rig which I have not (yet) managed to cancel out. Stars removed with Straton, then the Ha/OIII image and the wide field RGB image were aligned with Registar and blended together in PS. All C&C is most welcome. CS Ragnar
  14. This was an experiment in imaging one target (M33) with three cameras and then combining the three components into one composite image. 70D dslr+ED80DS - 10x120s + 10x180s + 10x240s combined with HDRComposition in PixInsight. 414osc+ED80DS - 7x600s processed in PI 428(Ha)+WO-ZS71 - 10x600s Ha processed in PI. All the components were registered in PI using StarAlignment. 30% of 428-Ha was combined with the 414-Red in PS using a Lighten layer. The Ha enhanced 414osc image was then combined with the widefield image from the 70D using a masked layer at 45% opacity. I was trying to get the wide field view from the dslr with the enhanced detail from the 414/428 but I'm not sure it has worked. Any advice and help would be much appreciated. Thank you for looking. Adrian
  15. I dont normally image galaxies as I live in a Red / Yellow Zone and I find that its very difficult to achieve a pleasing result. However, I have been seeing lots of images from the ASI071mc and QHY168c cameras from highly light polluted locations achieving good quality with large numbers of short exposures so I decided to give it a go with my cooled 550D which according to 'sensor gen' has a lower read noise than either of the two pro cooled cameras when used at high ISO. As such this is very much an experiment for me as I would normally move away from 5 - 10 min exposures at ISO800. This is 230 x 120s exposures at ISO 3200, taken over three nights from my home observatory, 130PDS, Astronomic CLS clip, HEQ5 guided. 1) 60 on 8/12/17 2) 40 on 11/12/17 3) 130 on 15/12/17 Calibrated with FLATS only. As I dont normally image galaxies and so I am not very practiced at processing, this is my 5th go starting from scratch. I had to change quite allot of how I process from my normal emission nebula work flow. This is also my first use of Astro Pixel Processor as part of my 30 day trial. DSS was just not cutting it for this and I wanted something with a good tool to remove gradients. Thanks allot for looking, any pointers / comments good or bad welcome. Adam.
  16. The ISS was predicted to cross the Sun's disk at 15:53:29s on Wednesday. The event was visible in a 6km wide track near my location. Using a home made Baader solar filter on my SW 130 PDS and my DSLR with EOS Utilities I captured the moment, rather poorly. There are 2 GIFs. One is real time as the transit lasted a whole 0.55 seconds and the other is the same GIF slowed down a bit. With hindsight I could have got the image scale up but it was all a bit hectic.
  17. Hie all. I currently have an 8" GSO reflector newtonian(1200mm focal length, f/6 focal ratio) and i have spent a year observing and manually tracking planets and deep space objects. I recently purchased a nikon d5500, a t ring, uhc broadband filter and a 32mm telephoto projection superview eyepiece. I have a few doubts though. I connect my eyepiece to my dslr directly using the t ring. As this eyepiece doesnt need and extra adaptors. I recently calculated the amount of time a star or deep space object would take to go out of my FOV. It takes about 4.8 mins. So what if i take 8 to 15 sec exposures with manual tracking?? Will there be any very visible srar trails in my image...?? I will be stacking 500 to 600 light frames along with dark frames in DSS and edit it in lightroom. And use a shutter remote to take exposures without shake...is this possible...??? Can someone please help me out with this..???
  18. After a long light Swedish summer I just had my first night with my new Explore Scientific ED127 (+ 0.79x TS reducer/flattener) and got this snapshot (1 x 5 min at ISO1600 on a Canon 60Da without darks etc) of what other people call the great wall of the North American Nebula - I just accidentally framed it a bit differently. So, to me it really looks like an angry bull puffing out some of it anger.
  19. Hi guys, Bit of a lurker here but time for a first post as I've scoured every corner of the internet and cannot find the exact info I'm after. My style of shooting is more landscape astrophotography over deep space and I really want to be able to photograph Orion using a wide angle lens (eg. Samyang 24mm) on either a Canon 6D or a Sony A7SII and pick up the nebulosity. I have a tracking mount (Star Adventurer Mini) and am familiar with stacking images. I was wondering if a light pollution filter would help my cause here as I've read they can help boost nebulosity. Started to get my head in a twist with all the various filters and different types of nebulosity. I really don't want to modify either camera as I use them both for daytime landscape work too. The Samyang 24mm has a 77mm thread on the front, would something like a Hoya Red Intensifier be beneficial to my aims? Is there a better front threaded filter available for what I want? Or is a clip-in filter better? Any help much appreciated, Alyn
  20. Hi all, Last month I spent some time with the Ring Nebula during two moonless and pretty dark nights: - 8x10m iso 400 + 7x5m iso 800 = 115 min - 14x10m iso 800 with Astronomik H-alpha 12nm = 140 min So almost 4.5 hours together. Wish I had more but the dark hours are few during September nights, where I live. Gear used is a modded Nikon D7000 and Meade 8" LX200-ACF on HEQ5 Pro, guided with NexGuider. I use to cool the dslr in the fridge a few hours, before putting it in a DIY cooling box with freeze gel packs when leaving home. I guess it converts a September night into January. Processing is done with RegiStar and PS CS5. I had to struggle a lot with the H-alpha data until it finally contributed with the fainter parts of the nebula. The faint satellite track, I decided not to remove it. After all it is part of the night sky. C&C most welcome. Ragnar
  21. Okay, the setup: I stayed out all night last night, set up the Edge 8 just before dark and viewed for a couple of hours before the Moon could come over the trees and fully wash out my sky, which was absolutely cloudless, with the best seeing since......probably last Spring. Unfortunately, the Full Moon rose about 8pm, so it wasn't a dark sky. I just looked at thing toward the north and west as much as possible. I took a break about 10pm, went in to get a cup of coffee, and Blade Runner-Director's Cut was just starting, so I had to get my sci-fi fix for the day. Went back out about 1:30am, the Moon was high by then and you could easily read a book by the light. Undeterred, I restarted my scope (AVX, used "last alignment" and it was dead-on). I was limiting myself to stars, looked at a bunch of doubles, and then I thought....clusters. M13 being rather far removed from where the Moon was, I skewed over to it and, expectedly, saw a dim blob, which would have been much better in a dark sky. So, I wondered if taking a picture would work. I had a 13mm Ultima Duo eyepiece in, it's threaded for a T-ring, so I attached my D3400, set it to bulb and ISO 6400, and commenced shooting some EPP, starting at 10 seconds and working up to 30 seconds at 5 second intervals. I had to shoot quite a few, checking focus and adjusting as I went, but finally got something you could identify. I looked at M42 for quite a while, managed to split Rigel, looked for a while at Alnitak. I considered looking for "attack ships burning off the shoulder of Orion" (movie quote from replicant Roy Batty). I saved my eyes for the last, looked at the Moon, unfiltered, then broke everything down and went inside about 4:30 am. Nothing fabulous, but for a bright night and early AP effort, I'm happy with the outcome. This is a single-exposure at 27.5 seconds, ISO 6400.
  22. We had a patch of clear skies last Sunday night, and even though it was bitterly cold (and there was ice and snow everywhere) I made the executive decision to get outside and have a go nonetheless. I have to setup and teardown each session, but thankfully I was able to move the car a few metres and take advantage of the nice dry (and ice free) ground underneath. The plan was to grab some OIII data to go with the Ha I captured on the Heart Nebula a couple of weeks back (see link below) but all I could manage was 8 x 1200s before the clouds rolled in for good. In fact, 3 of the 8 subs were affected by clouds, but I decided to use them anyway as I figured it’s only going to get used for tone mapping, and not luminosity, and at such a short exposure time I really need all the SNR I can get. So I’m being a bit of a naughty boy by posting this before getting a decent amount of OIII first. This is just a quick once-through process and is still missing some things, so it’s very much a work-in-progress at this stage, but I thought I’d post it anyway and I’ll update the thread as I make changes. So far, all I’ve done is process the OIII image (which involved gradient reduction, stretching, removing the stars then stretching some more, then quite a substantial amount of noise reduction). Then I combined it with the Ha image above in my usual manner, i.e creating a synthetic SII using 60% of the Ha image and 40% of the OIII image, and then combining all 3 using Annie’s Hubble Palette action. So aside from some more work to refine the colour, I still need to work on the contrast, do some NR and also then finally some star reduction. C&C welcome as always! Details: SW 80ED with FF/FR (510mm FL) HEQ5 Pro Mount (belt mod) Nikon D5300a 11 x 1200s and 3 x 900s of Ha (2” Baader) 8 x 1200s of OIII (2” Baader) 30 Flats, 50 Bias. Dithered every frame. Captured in SGP. Stacked in APP. Processed in PS. Thanks for looking. The Ha image:
  23. Hi very new to guiding and using an OAG on my CPC9.25 SCT and need some help. A few weeks back I managed to capture 10min subs of IC434 without any real issue. I had my CPC9.25 mounted on a wedge, did an EQ North Align, then Polar Align > Align Mount routine. I slewed to a target and set about getting both my guide camera, Lodestar X2 & my DSLR both into focus on my attached Celestron 93648 OAG. My setup as follows: SCT > OAG > DSLR via Baader 2958550 Protective T-Ring The complete OAG thickness calculated from the manual is 66.8mm, comprising (SCT Adapter 25.3mm, OAG Body 29mm & Male M42 Camera Adapter 12.5mm) I can't seem to find info on optical thickness of the Baader T-Ring but can only assume that when attached to my DSLR, gives the norm 55mm to sensor. If this is the case then I am already at 121.8mm. To get focus in the guide cam I had to add a 1.25" nose piece extension and the original end of the guide cam is just visible above the top of the guide cam holder. Now skip forward to last night, I thought I'd try getting wider FOV images of the same target, no problem or so I thought, I have a Celestron f6.3 94175 reducer, I'll just install that directly onto the back of my SCT and attach everything else exactly as above, behind it. Well, getting my DSLR into focus was no big issue, just had to turn the focus knob a bit, the usual when using the FR but my issue was with my guide cam, the stars were huge doughnuts. Through a process of elimination I figured that I had to move the guide cam in nearer to the prism, so I had to remove the nose piece extension and push the camera all the way in to the holder as well as winding the OAG guide cam focuser all the way down. Doing this I managed to get sharper results from the guide cam but these stars were no longer round, they were very oblique circles, pointed at the narrow ends. After lots more fiddling and swearing I came to the conclusion that I could not solve this issue on site so gave up and removed the reducer. Later on I realised that it may be that I needed to adjust the position of the prism i.e. slide it in more to the light beam. As it happens I did not have a suitable allen key with me to try this. My question/s is/are: am I correct in thinking that I was possibly picking up stars right on the edge of the FR in the guide cam, the edge where all the aberration is? just wondering why it was necessary that I had to reduce the distance to light source of the guide cam but the DSLR distance was fine staying put & only needed refocusing? Thanks in advance
  24. Hi everyone. I'm back, and trying again to get a decent DSO photo! This is my personal favourite so far, so I must be getting better! haha Still a long way to go with the processing skills, but I'm sure I'll get there. 23x Lights - 120 Seconds - ISO800 20x Darks 20x Flats (Yes! I've started to use these!!) 20x Bias Processed using Photoshop and ProDigital Astronomy Tools Hope you like it. Thanks, Mike
  25. My image of Omega Centauri ( NGC 5139 ) has been published as the NASA APOD for the 11th of July 2017 https://apod.nasa.gov/apod/ap170711.html Link to full size image on NASA site ( warning quite large - 4620 x 3720 ) Link to discussion of image on asterisk.apod.com ( credit apod.nasa.gov ) ( full size image - 4620 x 3720 ) Link to original post for this image back on the 10th of June
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