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Found 247 results

  1. I'm spending the summer in Canada so I'm looking to buy a scope while I'm there (Instead of shipping my Evo 9.25'). I'm literally looking for a reasonably priced scope motorized scope that is also capable of taking the weight of my DSLR since I do a lot of astroimaging. I've been looking at some of the Skywatcher Reflectors and a couple of Celestron's reflectors but I'm not sure what to buy. What would you recommend? I'll be shipping it back to the UK as well when I return.
  2. Could use some advice from anyone who has made a DSLR COOL BOX. I have now completed my project, it turned out to be very effective at lowering the temperature of the camera, I managed a 25c drop. However, this caused the coma corrector that attaches the camera / cool box to the scope to significantly drop in temperature also and dew formed on it inside the focusing tube during the imaging session as a result, I image using a 130P-DS Newtonian. It took a couple of hours of cooling for this to occur mind you and as the box is sealed with desiccant inside its only the outside surface of the coma corrector / attached 2" filter that has a dew issue. Has anyone else had this issue? Would placing a 15cm eyepiece dew heater around the focusing tube convey sufficient heat into the coma corrector to prevent this? Cheers, Adam
  3. Dear all! I am looking for a good Grab and Go Scope / Tele lens with a total price tag below 1000 EUR. I have 5 candidates so far: (1) TS Imaging Star 70mm f/6,78 QUADRUPLET ED - Flatfield ED Refractor - 474mm focal length 599 Euro, no TSFLAT2 necessary + case 60 = 660 euros. astrobin sample w/ DSLR: https://www.astrobin.com/160820/ (2) Skywatcher dublet Apo 80/600 EvoStar ED OTA, FPL 53, 649 Euros +case 60 + flattener 179 = 890 Euros astrobin sample w/ DSLR: http://www.astrobin.com/236429/ (3) TS Imaging Star 65mm f/6.5 Quadruplet Astrograph - 44 mm field diameter 900 euros + case 60 = 960 euros astrobin sample w/ DSLR: http://www.astrobin.com/12039/ (4) TS PHOTOLINE 80 mm f/7 FPL53 Doublet Apo - rack and pinion focuser 745 euros + tsflat 179 + case 60 = 980 euros astrobin sample w/ DSLR: http://www.astrobin.com/213138/0/ (5) TS Photoline 80mm f/6 Triplet Super-Apo with FPL53 triplet - 2" Crayford focuser + case 798 euro + TSFlat 179 euro == 980 euros. astrobin sample w/ DSLR: http://www.astrobin.com/210940/ Edit: i was aiming for a total cost of max 1000 eur, a weight for the OTA of up to 4-5kg, and a max length of about 60 cm. I would really like your suggestions on that gear, as well as suggestions for good scopes that i may have missed... thanks a lot!!!
  4. OK, so i am considering a long term move from my trusty DSLR to a pure astro cam. I sort of figured out the following things (just my opinion!): A DSLR like my Canon EOS 550D gives a large, decent sensor at an affordable price - zero (if you already own one). In order to really step things remarkably up, i'll probably have to go Mono and cooled - it does not make sense to shell out 4 figures for a small change. I would also like to go for the hubble palette- lets do it right the first try... This means that the investment for me will be at least camera + computer controlled filter wheel + 3 narrow band filters + who knows what else! If i go for the ASI 1600 cool, it looks like the total investment would be positively north of 2200 EUR/GBP- right? I'd love to have feedback from the community! PS.: lots of thanks to the SGL community- since i have started reading SGL, my astro malinvestments have gone down to zero (so far). Thanks again!
  5. Reprocessed: The difference is fairly subtle unless one sees this version and the original together... Details: Rosette Nebula in Monoceros ( NGC 2237, 2238, 2239, 2244, 2246 ) by Mike O'Day ( 500px.com/MikeODay ). The Rosette Nebula surrounds a cluster of bright young stars (NGC 2244) and is around 5,200 light years from Earth. Links: https://500px.com/MikeODay http://photo.net/photos/MikeODay This image ~ RA 6h 31m, Dec 5deg 2'. Skywatcher Quattro 10" f4 Newtonian. Skywatcher AZ Eq6 GT Mount. Orion Short Tube 80mm guide scope & auto guider - PHD2. Baader MPCC Mark 3 Coma Corrector (no filter used). Nikon D5300 (unmodified). Field of view (deg) ~ 1.35 x 0.90..71 x 30 sec ISO 800. Pixinsight & Photoshop. 20 December 2015
  6. Hi again! Last time I imaged IC5070 for approx 3 hours, then as Orion rose up I decide to use up the last of the clear skies imaging B33/NGC2024. 15 x 600s at ISO1600 with Canon 1000d, ED80 FFx0.85, darks and bias. Looking any advise on detail etc, how does guiding look, focus, etc. I'd like to try to progress so feedback welcome. It is still noisy, so definitely need more subs. I've also lost the plot somewhere with it somewhere during processing as there is artefacts all over the show! Thanks in advance Adam.
  7. Having another crack at Andromeda tonight, my last chance before the weekend, and I've got opportunity to be in a dark skies pretty much (going by local light pollution data maps.) I've noticed that my last couple of attempts I've totally blown the core. Trying to find the optimal ISO to shoot it at as I've been doing 10000 and 12800 in heavy light pollution. Working with a Nikon d5300 at 200mm and f / 4.8, which I know is far from ideal but for now that's the kit I have to work with. Doing 2 second exposures with darks and offsets. Any quick advice would be much appreciated ?
  8. Hi, When boring times comes it could be both fun and interesting to do some calculations. This time I did an Excel sheet over the three cameras: Atik 16200, Canon EOS 6D and ZWO ASI1600. I have the Canon 6D and wanted to see how time efficient it is compare to the others. In the Excel sheet it's possible to setup data for the cameras and object information, light pollution and readout noise and max level that shouldn't saturate (clipp). At the end you see how many sub images it takes to reach a given S/N, Signal / Noise ratio. It also calculate the total exposure time and dead time between images. It only compare pixel to pixel, not that the sensor area or the pixel size is different. Take a look here where I have wrote it down if you find it interesting: http://astrofriend.eu/astronomy/tutorials/tutorial-camera-time-efficiency/tutorial-camera-time-efficiency.html It's very simple so don't expect it to be perfect but you can have a lot of interesting information from it if you test with different parameters. You can download the Excel sheet if you find it interesting. /Lars
  9. Hello all, I am trying to process data captured on friday during almost full moon, and I'm having a hell of a time of it.. Due to the full moon doing it's best sun impression my target was an open cluster (NGC 225 in Cassiopea), thinking it would be doable. I was using my 2" Explore Scientific CLS filter, my unmodded Nikon D7100 and captured 92 usable 45 second subs at ISO 400. Calibrated with bias and flat frames and stacked with linear fit clipping as the pixel rejection algorith. The mission for the night was not getting particularly good data, but getting decent tracking and round stars, something I have had lots of trouble with! Now that I am trying to process it, I find im dealing with some very nasty gradients / casts and I can't seem to get any good colors. An initial strech reveals a strong blue color cast/gradient that I can deal with in a number of ways. Linear fit DBE ABE followed by the usual: SCNR (green) Color Calibration No matter what I do I end up with the whole image being either really green or really red and not much else for color in any of the stars. I also think i burned out all the major stars by over saturation.. I know the CLS filter is going to wreak havoc on colors because it completely blocks parts of the spectrum, so maybe the CLS filter is just the wrong tool for the job? If anyone would like to show me what they can get from this data, and how (so preferably with PI) I would be really grateful. At the moment im thinking maybe the data is just really bad and not useable? Linked is the final integrated xisf (only xopped slightly): https://www.dropbox.com/s/nmxds87toc7vz51/integration.xisf?dl=0
  10. Howdy All, Here is a capture from Beatty, NV. from 110417 042738 during the transit of the ISS across the Moon. Here are some of the ISS details. ISS angular size: 34.31″; distance: 805.38 km Angular separation: 8° 31′; azimuth: 265.4°; altitude: 27.1° Center line distance: 138.00 km; visibility path width: 7.67 km R.A.: 02h 21m; Dec: +12° 13′; parallactic angle: -46.2° ISS velocity: 22.6 ′/s (angular); 5.29 km/s (transverse) ISS velocity: -5.14 km/s (radial); 7.37 km/s (total); Direction of motion relative to zenith: -40.7° Moon angular size: 33.2′; 58.1 times larger than the ISS Moon phase: 99.7%; angular separation from Sun: 174.1° Sun altitude: -32.5°; the ISS will be in shadow Canon 60D, ISO400, 1/3200, 60fps, f/10, 2000mm, Meade LX-200 8", Beatty NV. Composite image of the ISS from video. Jason Snyder
  11. Hi SGL, need for help from the experts of sgl! has anyone connected a DSLR to the SW skyliner 200p dob tube? Manufacturer manual says it allows DSLR direct connection, if so what do i need to acquire to connect? I m hoping to work in the 2" format. i recently found the "imaging with 130p-ds" thread here which has instantly inspired me to get into astrophotography! I have rushed out to get myself a NEQ6pro mount, but before spending further, would really like to try my SW skyliner 200p tube first on some very easy photos. thanks in advance! Ps: is SW200/250p-ds too big for use on an equatorial mount? I found some irrresistable deals on these two scopes, was originally gonna get the 130p-ds due to the stellar praises it is receiving in SGL Dom
  12. Hello, i really want to image deep sky objects and i dont think my RA motor will do the job, so how do i take deep sky images without a long exposure. I heard that you can take diffrent types of pictures and stack them but i didnt understand much of that, so please help me find a way to make good/decent deep sky photos without long exposure. Also, sorry for being inactive but i haven't found anything worth while to post. Clear skies!
  13. After publishing my latest YouTube video showing me bumbling my way through trying to photograph stars from my shed, someone commented I should use a Baader semi-APO filter on my refractor telescope ( explore scientific AR152 ) along with a IR/UV Cut Filter. Using a semi-APO filter makes absolute sense to me, and reading up on them, they look like a really worthy investment. However, as I'm using a basic Astro-modded DSLR camera ( Canon Eos 1300D - I just had the basic mod: single filter removal), the idea of adding a IR/UV Cut Filter is not making sense to me. Wasn't the filter that was removed from the modded camera, a form of IR/UV Filter? If so, wouldn't I just be nullifying the modification by using one? Appreciate any clarity on this - much thanks ?? PS Heres a link the video in case you were curious: https://youtu.be/iNUevy47fAc .
  14. Hey Guys. I was just wondering if it is possible for me, to do PEC training using my Nikon DSLR and the cables that I got? I don't have a guiding setup yet, and I want to wait until the money is there and also getting more used to imaging. I tend to have a very good polar alignment, as the image doesn't drift through each frame, but rather there is a "jerk" or drift every other frame, when doing 2-3 minute subs. I guess that is periodic error, as it happens even on windless nights. So, I have both my Nikon DSLR and my mount hooked up to my pc (the mount through port in the Celestron Advanced VX Controller), from which I can send slew commands. I have the periodic error correction tool too, but as of right now it seems that I have to monitor and correct any PE myself, which I honestly don't want to do as doing that 8 minutes straight with precision doesn't sound easy. So can I hook up the DSLR through say PHD2 and let it correct for me, and do the PEC training, or do I need the actual cable that goes into the Guider port of the mount? Any thoughts on if this is possible would be well received! And if not, I guess I'll either just need to get used to shorter subs (or throwing 1/2 of them away), or trying to do the training manually with the zoomed image of Backyard Nikon.. Cheers -Mathias
  15. Anyone have experience mounting a finder scope/autoguider (Orion Deluxe Mini 50mm Guide Scope) onto the hotshoe plate on the top of a DSLR camera? The finder scope has a 1 1/4" dovetail base (shoe) and also a adapter plate but I need something with a hotshoe fitting on one side and a plate or a dovetail female on the other. Thanks, Lloyd
  16. Not a new question I know (I've read a few topics on this as you can imagine) but I'd really appreciate the thoughts of others tailored to my situation! I am shooting with a unmodded Canon 6D from my skywatcher 200p mounted to a NEQ6 and guiding with an Orion Awesome Autoguider. Almost entirely shooting deep space nebula targets from my yard in Wellington NZ and occasionally from a dark site about 40minutes drive away (my set-up is pretty mobile working from a Nextbook). I'm a pretty enthusiastic but only an occasional hobbyist maybe shooting a dozen times a year. My work is here on my flickr (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mattbalkham/) if you want/need to gauge my level of ability and assess if I am getting the most out of my current set-up. The main question I am asking myself is would I benefit from moving from the 6D (which I also use for normal photography inc. a few weddings etc. and therefore cannot modify) to; 1) a modified DSLR (presumably a 'lesser' DSLR but maybe more tailored to Astro work); or 2) should I take the plunge into CCD (and if so colour/mono, etc. etc. etc.!)? Depending on the answer to above, how much is it sensible to budget for this next step? Thanks in advance Matt
  17. Re-processed to try to bring increase the brightness of the various nebulae and increase the contrast a little without futher blowing out the stars and adding too much noise ... orignial: Orion's Belt - centred on "Alnitak", is a 1.7 magnitude triple star 740 light years from Earth and appears at one end of the belt. The Flame nebula ( cat: NGC 2024 or Sharpless 2-277 ) ( lower centre left of the image) glows yellow-pink due to the ionising radiation that comes from Alnitak. Seen from Earth, the Flame nebula is behind Alnitak and around 80 light years further away from Earth. The Horsehead nebula ( cat: Barnard 33 ) ( centre right of the image ) is a dark dust and gas cloud that is only visible from Earth due to the backlight illumination and silhouetting caused by the bright pink glow from the ionised hydrogen gas in the emission nebula IC 434. The bright blue reflection nebula below and to the left of the Horsehead is NGC 2023. Details: Combination of two sessions over a year apart. Skywatcher Quattro 10" f4 Newtonian. Skywatcher AZ Eq6 GT Mount Orion 80mm f5 guide scope and auto guider - PHD2. Baader MPCC Mark 3 Coma Corrector, no filter. Nikon D5300 (unmodified). 14bit NEF, Long Exp. NR on. 18 Dec 2015. 21 x 20 sec ISO 800. 165 x 30 sec ISO 800. 13 x 60 sec ISO 800 . Baader UHC-S , 12bit NEF, Long Exp. NR on. 5 Oct 2014. 19 x 2min ISO400 Pixinsight Links:. https://500px.com/mikeoday http://photo.net/photos/MikeODay
  18. Hi! Does anyone know if the Celestron 8" Newtonian can focus on a DSLR doing eyepiece projection ? I've heard scarce and mixed reviews on this subject, and I'm looking for help!!! Thanks!
  19. I have a problem with stacking images from my 5D MK3, the files are huge, I’ve tried both- Astroart V5 and DSS, Astroart fails to stack the CR2’s because of a memory issue? Deep sky stacker gets there in the end but the colour is washed out and no amount of tweaking can get an acceptable result. Pixinsight – er well it’s so long winded I cannot for the life of me understand it; I suppose I would have to batch convert all the .CR2 files into .Fits then process .. am I correct? Any thoughts?
  20. I'm still undecided which mod to go for. I will only be using the camera with camera lenses and will not be using it for normal as I have another camera for this. Is it worth getting a full spectrum mod if I only intend to do widefield?
  21. Most of the astrophotography I have been doing to date has been in my back garden which conveniently faces north and I can attache my DSLR to my laptop via a 5m usb cable - which means my laptop is nice and safe in the warm/dry kitchen. As the targets I am interested are moving and seem better accessible from the fron of the house, I need to change things around a bit. Because the house is in the way I need to be a fair distance from it to see Polaris to align it all and won't be able to run a cable into the house - so I need something a bit more portable to control the camera as I take my subs. (There is a small field in front of the house by the way, I'm not standing in the road). I have seen some apps for controlling DSLRs via a mobile, but I believe that these are only suitable for better cameras that have a wi-fi function. I am not going to be able to use them with my Canon 1100d? Am I right in this thinking or does anyone use a mobile app to control their 1100d? Failing that, then I presume the best option is to set it all up out the front of the house and use an Intervalometer to control the imagin run? And then sit in the car to keep warm and watch for "dodgy" characters interfering with my equipment! Not that I have had any clear skies for about 15 years....... Cheers Mark
  22. Hello nice people of SGL, I have recently modded my Lifecam Studio for guiding and I must say it is an amazing webcam that performs really will in low light. with 1sec exposure I had no problem finding good star for guiding. However, a few nights ago I realised that after about 10 minutes the webcam gets really hot and that adds noise to the guiding image, and the guiding becomes a bit inaccurate. So I decided to mod it even further and add a cooling fan to it. I managed to flatten the heat exchanged that is on the webcam and attach a Fan&HE to it. but what I now notice (without trying it on starts I must say) is that the webcam slightly vibrates when the fan is connected to power. Has anyone done anything similar that can advise whether or not the vibration becomes a problem? and if yes, how it can be resolved? I am also planning to add a peltier cooler to my DSLR (cold finger style rather than cool box) so I really want to know if I will have problem with vibrations... Many thanks in advance, Naeim
  23. Hi all, Finally a gap through the clouds! Took this picture 10 minutes ago with my Nikon D3100 and a Sigma 70-300mm telezoom lens. Baader Solar Filter, 300 mm at ISO 100 F/30; Raw edited and converted to JPEG using Adobe Lightroom. Click to Enlarge:
  24. beka

    DSLR M31

    Hi All, Having had to move to an apartment where I could not use my CPC 1100, I decided that I have to see what I could do with my NexStar SLT 102 (alt-az achromatic 102mm f6.47 refractor). Setting up on my narrow balcony was challenging and the altitude bearing was so loose that it almost moved from the weight of the Canon 700D. I could not see M31 in the estimated 3.5 magnitude sky so I did a two star alignment and used the live-view to focus on a bright star. I then took a 15 second exposure after slewing to M31 which allowed me to see that I had it in the field of view. After a few more 15 second exposures and playing with the motion controls I managed to get it centered. The resulting picture is from 39 subs of 30 seconds at ISO 1600, 9 flats. The images were stacked and stretched with Siril and then I played with the curves on Gimp, cropped and scaled. Not too unhappy.
  25. Aenima

    elephant Neb

    From the album: 2015 Various

    © Aenima

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