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Found 247 results

  1. Aenima

    double cluster 2

    From the album: The next step.

    One of my first targets but still trying to get a decent image - clusters are harder than they look to capture due to them being all stars so tracking errors and uncorrected optical problems are very quick to show up in the end result.

    © Aenima

  2. From the album: Astro snaps

    Canon 400D, 15s exposure, Gaussian blur in Gimpshop to subtract light pollution. You can just about see the Andromeda Galaxy on here.
  3. From the album: Astrophotography-2012

    This is my image of the Rosette nebula imaged from Christchurch park in Ipswich town centre in January 2012. The image was actually taken during a live event organised by Orwell Astronomical Society to tie in with the BBC's Stargazing Live event. Despite some unpleasant light polution and 100+ people milling about and asking questions whilst the image was being shot, it has come out really quite well. The image was a total of 32 X 6 minute exposures, 3hrs 12 minutes total + matching darks and flats imaged with my Eos 500D, WO Megrez72 and HEQ5 guided with PHD/EQmod with the SX Lodestar and ST80 guide scope. The image was taken on the Monday night, processed on the Tuesday morning, submitted to the BBC the Tuesday afternoon and was featured on the final Stargazing Live show on the Wednesday.
  4. I was looking to get into astrophotography with my 10 inch dobson and for start would like to buy something affordable. Cameras can be used or new. Thanks in advance!
  5. We are running a session at my local society on transits and occultations. One station will focus on exoplanet transits, and we'd like to build a very simple model to demonstrate this. We have a star (light source) and an orbiting "planet" but I need to work out how to detect the changes in light intensity and display this on a laptop, like a classical transit photometry trace below (taken from https://heasarc.gsfc.nasa.gov/docs/tess/primary-science.html). Is there a way to take a feed from a DSLR through the USB output to do this, else I could get an adapter for my ZWO and put an EOS lens on the front of that. I really do want a light intensity vs time trace in real time on the laptop. This model will be run in a darkened room. Thanks for any comments. James
  6. Back in early Feb I tried imaging Markarian's Chain, but after 2 subs I encountered guiding issues (a first for me) so had to give up. So just for kicks and giggles, I decided to process them! ? So this is 2 x 10mins. With the D5300, 80ED and HEQ5-Pro. 'Stacked' (if it's even right to use that term!) in APP, and processed in PS. Then reduced to 75% for posting. Why oh why oh why..... I honestly don't even know myself ?
  7. Hey everyone! I’m after some pretty wide-field DSOs that can be captured with an unmodified DSLR without too much struggle (apart from the Orion Nebula.) I can push my exposures up to around 3 minutes with no major star trailing but that’s about as far as I can go. Also I’m in the Southern Hemisphere so don’t have the luxury of choosing between many relatively bright Messier objects. Your suggestions are much appreciated!
  8. Hi everyone, just looking to get into astrophotography but looking at a DSLR as I'd like to use it for daytime use too, I know usually it's better for them to be modified but I've seen this can be done to allow use for both with only white balance adjustment. I've seen 1300d's going around £200 on eBay with the 18-55mm lens but the 4000d is a couple of years newer and there is currently one with 18-55mm + 75-300mm going for £350 at Currys. From what I can work out there isn't much difference between them besides a smaller screen on the 4000d and the release date. I'm just wondering if there is some reason people go for the 1300d instead or is it just because of it being older it turns up cheaper? Sorry for the long winded post but I'm doing lots of research to make sure I get the best one that'll last me the longest, thanks for any help.
  9. Hello everyone! Im having issues regarding dew during colder nights while imaging. I’m aware of how to solve the issue of dew forming on front elements of scopes/lenses using dew heaters, however I’m also concerned with the dew that forms on my non-weatherproof DSLR body and imaging laptop. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to combat this? Thanks!
  10. Hello, I want to get into astrophotography. I have a Newtonian (200/1000) and I'd like to buy a DSLR. My preferred maker is Canon, but you can change my mind if you recommend something else and I like it . My budget is around $700 or less and most importantly used cameras not an option because in my country there isn't any good places to buy used DSLRs. I'd like to do prime focus photos and some Milky Way photos. I found out that the 1000d would be a good option but it's not in the stores any more. Then I thought about the 750d but it has vertical lines in the photos. Now I'm thinking about the 2000d but I didn't found any astrophoto experiences with it on the internet. So what's your recommendations?
  11. During two nights I managed to get 29 x 10 minutes @iso200 on this shy target. Postprocessing was not easy, so I ended up with some much appreciated PixInsight processing help from @Ceph - Thanks Jim ! Stars may be a little soft due to extreme humidity, but at least I kept the corrector plate almost clear. C & C most welcome. Ragnar
  12. Greetings everyone. Few months ago I wrote a post about a small refractor to mount on a Star Adventurer, but I'm now considering fast tele lens like the Nikon 80-200 f2.8. My question is: what is the best tele lens to get pictures of Andromeda galaxy, Orion, Soul, Hearth nebula and stuff like these? If I'd pick a 70-200 f2.8 lens, can I plug a teleconverter 2x to get better crop without losing details? I've attached a picture taken with my Nikon D3300 and 18-105 kit lens, as you can see it's quite small (forget about the quality, it was also quite foggy back then). Thanks in advance.
  13. Hello! Last night i had my first succesful planetary imaging session with my new scope and my DSLR. I used BackyardEOS with the crop mode at f/10, the results where very satisfying, miles better than anything i had done before. Maybe i could have added a 2x barlow but i am not sure if atmospheric conditions would have allowed for that. So...here are the results, please give me your feedback, Clear Skies!
  14. Hi all, It's been a while since I've posted a new topic unfortunately the weather has been horrible for the last month. I have saved up enough now for a new camera I had bought a cheap bridge type camera but wasn't that great and I'm looking to buy a DLSR and then hopefully a SA if I enjoy it. My max budget I think is no more than £200 I was hoping you could give me some recommendations for one that's slight beginner friendly but still good enough and also the best type of lenses to use? Many Thanks
  15. Had some nice clear skies last weekend, so I simply had to take advantage of them, even though the temps dropped to -4 on the Saturday night! Thankfully i was able to just move the car a few metres and use the frost-free ground underneath to set up. And boy, what a god send Team Viewer is! I Once i was all set up, i was able to monitor it all from inside the house. Most of the neighbour's had selfishly decided to light fires, how inconsiderate of them, lol. It was quite annoying though i have to say, seeing all the smoke at times billowing across my FOV! Thankfully i stayed up late though, so i outlasted most of them It was easily the most productive 2 nights I've had so far. The skies were completely clear all night long on both nights. In the end i managed 11 hrs worth of exposure in total over the 2 nights. I still need to process the Soul Nebula subs (Ha and OIII), hope to get to that later this week, but for now here's the other object i was shooting, good old M45. So this is 2 hrs 40 mins (16 x 600s) using the Nikon D5300a and an IDAS-D1 filter. 30 Flats, 50 Bias, with aggressive dithering. Captured with Sequence Generator Pro, stacked in Astro Pixel Processor, and processed in Photoshop. I may have gone too far with the processing (i tend to do that), what do you guys think? I had an earlier version which was sooooo much smoother, but it was seriously lacking in visible nebulosity, so i kept going! Plus, i wanted to try and eek out some of the surrounding dust, which i just managed to get. I might end up reducing it by 50% in size, due to the noise, haven't decided yet though. C&C welcome as always of course! The last RGB image i did was a brief go at M42 about a year ago, and that was also taken from home using the same filter. I had forgotten just how hard RGB processing is when not captured from a dark sky! ps - I've also added a version below with some funky diffraction spikes. Just for fun of course! Although i actually don't mind them
  16. Hi all, Here is my first go at the witches head nebula and I am searching for your expert advice and knowledge. This is a total of 80minutes of 3 minute exposures on my dslr and stacked in dss. I have stretched the bejeez out of this in gimp and I am quite frankly disappointed with the detail. I would have thought with an hour and a quarter of data that I would be able to tease something more impressive of the nebula? What do you think? Canon 40d modded 70-300 lens @ 70mm (image heavily cropped) 28X3minutes lights 20xdarks 30xbias No flats (hence the gradient I guess)IC2118 witches head nebulaCanon 40d modded,70-300 lens @ 80mm (image is cropped quite heavily) Iso160028X3min exposures stacked in dss and processed in gimp 28X3min exposures stacked in dss and processed in gimp
  17. Hi guys With the weather here in the UK being so bad recently, and with work commitments and other boring life stuff going on I haven't done much imaging lately, but I did finally manage to get out and grab some OIII data a couple of weeks ago to go with my old Ha data of NGC 1499 from back in September. The Ha data was from first light for the newly modded D5300 and Baader Ha filter. We have an outdoor sports facility only a couple of hundred yards from our house, and annoyingly the ridiculously bright floodlights don't turn off until after 10pm on weekdays, so even though there was no moon to contend with, I had no choice but to wait until the lights were off before I could start shooting the OIII. I thought about shooting more Ha while I waited, but in the end I decided to shoot some short subs without any filter, just to use for RGB stars. I stupidly didn't use my IDAS-D1 filter, and the scope ended up pointing almost directly at a streetlight for all the RGB subs. The result was a stack that had a simply insane gradient running through it, and which made gradient reduction on the stack impossible, as it was changing so much between subs. In the end I had to run gradient reduction on each individual RGB sub before stacking, and then run it again afterwards! Thankfully I only shot 20, so it wasn't too laborious. In the end I had something which, despite having a really ugly background, did at least have useable stars. As for the OIII, boy was the signal weak with this one. I'm used to dealing with weak OIII signals on the D5300a, but this one really took the biscuit! Thankfully J-P Metsavainio's tone-mappng technique allows one to get the sledgehammer out for such cases, so I was able to stretch it far enough to get something out of it (even if it doesn't yield any fine structural detail for the OIII). So this is 23 x 8 min Ha, and 9 x 20 min OIII subs. Calibrated with Flats and Bias, and dithered aggressively. The stars are made up of 20 x 90s subs. Everything shot at ISO 200. The usual gear was used, HEQ5 Pro Mount, SW 80ED (with FF/FR), guided with PHD2 and a Finder-Guider and Legacy QHY5. Captured with SGP, pre-processed in APP, and processed in PS. I have to say, I really like having the stars in a separate layer in PS. So much so, this is how I'm now going to process all my images from now on. It makes things so much easier being able to adjust whatever I want and not have to worry about constantly protecting the stars. I'm not actually finished processing this one, but I thought I'd post it up for now anyway, and update it later. I still haven't ran any noise reduction on it yet, so I need to do that next, but hopefully the final version will not look much different to this. I did have some fun playing with the colour on this one. I have noticed today though, that it looks quite different on my work Dell monitor compared to my cheap Korean one from home. I think it looks a bit duller today, but I'm just not sure! What do you guys think, does it need more or less of something in particular? All comments welcome, I'm always looking to learn! Cheers all!
  18. Hello, i got my Cannon 750D few days, and im thinking of buying some adapters so i can connect it to my telescope. Will a T2/1.25 eyepiece projection adapter and a T2/EOS adapter enable me to connect the 2 together? Also im wondering why a piece of plastic and some metal is so expensive :)))). -Ahgi, Clear skies!
  19. Hi All I'm new to Astronomy/Astro Photography and a long time user of Canon DSLR's - particularly the 600d so I know it very well. I recently bought another 600d from ebay and its got an amber tint to all White Balance presets - no problem for me in general use as I use a custom WB anyway and can easily get rid of the amber tint thusly. Of course I contacted the seller who offered a price reduction for the 'fault' which was satisfactory to us both. Issue resolved, everyone happy, end of story. Now on the the 'good' bit - possibly... During our negotiations he told me he had not tried the camera and had bought it cheaply from an astronomy enthusiast who had used it for Astro Photography and maybe he had modified it in some way - I had not told the fellow that I was planning to use it for the same purpose so I doubt that he was tailoring a suitable excuse to me. No matter anyway. So my question is this: How can I find out definitively if this Canon 600d has had an AP modification applied to it sensor? I am a complete newcomer to the field and would not know what to expect - and I don't want to partially dismantle it to find out! It is my intention to develop this new hobby once Spring arrives/nights are clear & dry. Meanwhile what can I try out to see if I have had the good fortune to have landed a great tool by accident - or simply a slightly faulty sensor (that can easily be rectified with manual WB) on an otherwise pristine and low use camera. Having used a number of Canon cameras extensively over the years the odd tint is not something I have come across previously so it does have me guessing & hoping....
  20. (The heading was a click bait, admitted. Who would click on just another "Elephants Trunk" ;-) In lack of fresh data due to perma clouds over my head, I recycled some old data trying to compete with myself and maybe progress some in post processing. I choosed a target that I have found to be very difficult to process, and I think it came out a little better. What do you think ? All suggestions are welcome. The brightest orange star to the right in my image is a red supergiant called The Garnet Star, or Mu Cephei. It´s a "runaway star", travelling with a speed of 80 km/s relative to the "local average". It also has a spherical shell of ejected material, which expands with 10 km/s. And look at the size (it is the red star in the #6 pic) here. Imagine it being in the position of our Sun, this star would reach somewhere between Jupiter and Saturn. Oh, and the red blob to the left of the star, I guess you all have seen it a few times ;-) Imaging was done with a modded Nikon D7000 on a HEQ5 Pro, guided with NexGuider. Today I would have used iso 200 instead of 800. Main image is taken with an old Tokina AT-X 250-500mm F5.6 @250mm & F8, iso 800 : 21x10 min (Hutech IDAS LPS-D1 used) Small details from my TS APO 700mm F6.5, iso 800 : 26x10 min (Astronomik CLS filter used) I started from scratch and stacked the 250mm & 700mm subs in different stacks, using Registar & PS. Removed stars with Straton, patched in just a few details from the 700 image, then restored the stars from the "before" image but in a more controlled way. Also used the StarShrink plugin. Before : After : Ragnar
  21. Hi guys, i have a celestron astromaster 130eq and am having great trouble focusing my dslr with it. I have T-adapters etc and a Barlow lens on the way. I am hoping to get some tips on how to focus it without having to buy too many more accessories. For example I am able to find and see the Orion Nebula fairly well with my 20mm eyepiece without the dslr but when it comes to attaching the dslr I cannot get it to focus! Thanks guys, hopefully someone has a suggestion. ?
  22. I never had a CCD camera but thinking on the next logical move on a more efficient way of collecting photons. I have a(n admittedly little used) nikon d5100 now and thinking about a monochrome CCD/CMOS camera. A monochrome cooled camera would be I guess even more efficient than an a7s. However, I am traveling a lot, therefore it is imperative that the gear stays airline portable. Does anyone travel with CCD gear? My first candidates are the QHY9 and the ASI1600mm cool, neither weighing more than an average DSLR, even with a filter changer included. Apparently control (autoguider, CCD) can also be solved without a laptop now.
  23. Hi ive always wanted to get into astrophotography. Here in Sweden at the last year of high school you get to choose whatever topic you want for a project and i chose astrophotography. Now im going through the pain of finding a good kit. The best one ive found is the skywatcher 200pds eq5 that is within my price range. http://www.teleskop-...5-Teleskop.html For a camera i was thinking canon eos1000d or 1100d. I just wanted to ask if this was a ok setup? I know the mount isnt the best but its the best for my budget.
  24. Hello! I have been looking through the forums sections of this site and found that nichrome wire is a very popular material for dew heaters. I was using my DSLR a several weeks back, and the dew was horrible and it encouraged me to build a nichrome heater. My first heater prototype consisted of 22" of wire with a resistance of 4.08 ohm per foot connected directly into a 12V power supply (consisting of 8 AA batteries in parallel). It was wrapped in duck tape. It worked for a while, but then the batteries began to overheat and I had to pull the heater out to let them cool. When I used the same prototype heater on 6V (4 AA batteries) it didn't have this same overheating issue, but it produced less heat then when it was on 12V. I'm not using a pulse width modulator, but would that solve this issue? I'm worried as the heater is only really around 8 ohm, it may be short circuiting with such little resistance. The wire can't be terribly long as this is just to heat a DSLR lens. Any input on a solution would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
  25. Hi All, Just after some advice. I have been imaging for about 4 months. I have recently tackled the heart nebula (see below) but have really struggled with detail despite getting 70 x 5min subs, with 50 x darks and 50 x bias. I'm currently using an unmodded canon 70D DSLR with a 80mm APO triplet mounted on a NEQ6. The question is, will getting my camera modded make a significant difference to the image. I am toying with the idea of getting it modded or bite the bullet and buy a cooled CCD camera. Please excuse the over-processing, I'm a total novice when it comes to Photoshop. I'm sure someone more proficient would be able to tease more detail out of the image. Any help/advice/feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. 03.10.2016 heart PS2 600s 6hrs best.tif
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