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Found 247 results

  1. Ok....ill start by admitting that I thought I was imaging the North American Nebula but missed and never noticed it was the Pelican until the processing. 4 x 10min, ISO 800 frames, no bias, no flats, no darks. Canon 1000D cooled to -4c at the camera sensor using my home made DSLR cooler box, CLS clip in filter. 130P-DS with a MPCC MK3. This was first light for my cooled camera and had some teething issues so only for 4 frames before it got light. I am am thinking its quite good considering but not much to reference that against. Also pleased by the noise reduction, not sure darks are required? Would love any comments on how I could better process it etc, as I am still quite new to astro-photography and only really have CS2.
  2. Barred Spiral Galaxy NGC 6744 in Pavo NGC 6744 is a Milky Way like barred spiral galaxy in the constellation Pavo. Visible only from lower latitudes, the light we see now left this galaxy around 30 million years ago. Details: Spiral Galaxy NGC 6744 in Pavo. Skywatcher Quattro 10" f4 Newtonian telescope. Skywatcher AZ Eq6 GT Mount. Orion 80mm f5 guide scope and auto guider - PHD2. Baader MPCC Mark 3 Coma Corrector, no filter. Nikon D5300 (unmodified). Field of view (deg) ~ 1.35 x 0.90. ISO800, 14bit NEF, Long Exp. NR on. 44 x 120sec 4th Sept 2016 Processed in PixInsight and finished off in Photoshop. Links: https://500px.com/MikeODay http://photo.net/photos/MikeODay
  3. My first go at imaging m45 shot using a vintage super takumar 135, f3.5 iso640 best 80%of 35 120second subs. The camera was mounted on a star adventurer and polar alignment was rough
  4. I was wondering has anyone converted his/her dslr or mirrorless camera for monochrome imaging? This looks interesting, I was just wondering about the real gain, putting it differently, how much do we loose on microlenses, which come off alongside the Bayer array. I'd be interested in side-by-side shots, under the same conditions: B&W and Bayer version.
  5. The Lagoon Nebula ( Messier 8, NGC 6523 ) in the constellation Sagittarious. ( click on image to see larger) The Laboon Nebula ( M8 ) is visible to the naked eye under dark skies from most latitudes except the far north. Seemingly covering an area about three times that of the full Moon, M8 actually covers an area somewhat greater than 110 light years and is around 4300 light years from Earth in the Sagittarius-Carina spiral arm of the Milkyway galaxy. ...... The frames for this image where taken back when I was very new to astrophotography and I was experimenting with camera settings. On this occasion I wanted to see if JPEG images might be easier to process - I was disappointed with the results. Now that I have a bit more knowledge and skill at processing I decided to have another attempt at trying to process the set because I liked the way the JPEG files had retained colour in the stars. I am reasonably pleased with the result; the faint detail in the nebula is not there but I quite like the colours in the centre and in the stars. Details: Messier 8, NGC 6523 - Lagoon Nebula Skywatcher Quattro 10" f4 Newtonian telescope. Skywatcher AZ Eq6 GT Mount.Orion auto guider - PHD2. Baader MPCC Mark 3 Coma Corrector. Nikon D300 (unmodified). 80 x 30 sec ISO 1600 (JPEG) - 31 Aug 14. PixInsight and Photoshop. processed 13 August 2016 Links: https://500px.com/MikeODay http://photo.net/photos/MikeODay
  6. Here is my intended setup for widefield but for now until I get the hang of it, I will just use the mount and camera. This setup includes Canon 1100D with RDF mounted to the hotshoe, 9x50 finder modified to a guidescope, QHY5L-II as the guide camera run from a Packard Bell netbook. Lenses are Vivitar Series 1 200mm f3, Panagor 135mm f2.8, F.Zuiko MC 50mm 1.8 and a Tokina 11-16mm 2.8 ultra wide lens. The whole purpose of this setup is portability due to living in a flat and I find my CG5-GT to bulky to cart around. Excuse the poor quality pics as they were taken on my phone.
  7. I have been reading around the subject of banding on images taken with DSLRs and the common feeling seems to be that it is largely a function of the temperature of the sensor. As the camera I use is also that family camera for daytime photos I am not in a position to rip it's guts out and start to put in cold fingers or other kinds of extreme modding (even assuming that I felt confident to take it to pieces which I am not). This just leaves me with a cold box style solution for cooling. Looking back through the search function there has not really been any discussion of cold boxes since 2012, has this approach fallen out of favour? Almost all of the tutorials use a metal box with the peltier on the outside, and using the conductive capability of the metal to dissipate the cooling, however they also use a cold-sink on the inside. If you put the peltier in a cut-out so that it is in direct contact with both the heat sink and the cold sink would that provide a better temperature gradient? Like this: Is there any benefit to having the cold sink directly in contact with the back of the camera (the plastic under the swivel out screen)? cheers, Frugal
  8. First Galaxy of 2013 and 5 NGCs Taken with a 7D and 600mm f4 lens at f5.6 30 x 4 minute, 30 x 2 minute and 30 x 1 minute lights at iso 1600 plus 3 x 20 darks and flats and shot in raw, Processed in DSS and then PixInsight and PS It could be better if I could process this stuff properly but I'm relatively happy with it
  9. Hi all gazers, i am having second thoughts about getting a crayford for my C9.25 (non HD) and that is because of the 0.63 Reducer / Flattener that i am imaging with. As camera i use the Nikon D7100. According to my calculations, and what i have read on internet, the optimal distance between the reducer and the chip is 105mm, the only focuser that allows for this distance (107-ish mm) is the feathertouch with the "shorty" sct-adapter witch is 56mm, my nikon T2-flange to the chip is 50mm. The Steeltrack and moonlite is far to long (93 and 91mm) But, according to some people, i can put my FR after the focuser with good performance, but how would that effect the reducing, and flattening? are there any out there who use crayfords and reducers on their SCT's with DSLR's? If nothing seems to work, i am getting the feathertouch microtouch replacement for the stock SCT-focuser. // Daniel
  10. Just finished hypermodding my Canon 450D following the instructions from: http://thaiastro.nectec.or.th/hypermod/ and took it one spet forward and chopped off the unnecessary ribbons from the top panel. The poor camera now looks like this: It was a great sense of relief when I connected it to my laptop and it worked! Also finished making the peltier cooler and that lookes like this: I made an attempt to build a box for the two, but failed. Does anyone know of a ready made sealed box that could host the modded camera? I have seen a thread that someone has put the camera in an aluminium electic box, but that's a bit too heavy. I am looking for a clear polystyrene or pvc/plastic box. Appreciate it if someone has similar experience and have found a good box... Clear skies, Naeim
  11. Hello everyone! I have recently been looking into deep-sky imaging, and related equipment. My telescope is a SW200p, and I already have an unmodded Canon EOS 1100D, but I've been thinking about moving into the world of CCD deep-sky imaging. My budget is approx. £500, and at that budget, the best I could get in terms of deep-sky CCDs is the Atik Titan (Mono). However, I was wondering whether I would get any major improvements over my DSLR, and whether it'd be the best use for my money. Here is what I know... Pros: Mono camera has capability of being used for luminance, and can use a variety of filters, as is not limited by RGB colours.I already have a filter wheel, so that is not a problem.Cooled CCD means less noiseLooks like it's a good option for fainter planets, with high sensitivity, and the potential for moderately high frameratesMore sensitive than most DSLRsCons: Much smaller number of pixels (and FOV width) than a DSLR - would need a very large mosaic for an object like M42Expensive!!Also, I couldn't help but compare it to the next models up, which happen to be twice the price (the 420L seems to be the next one up - £800!!). Would it be dramatically better to save up until next Christmas to buy something so expensive?! Any advice would be really welcomed! David
  12. So been at the this imaging malarchy for a couple of months and sometimes things just don't seem rational. Why do I get better results from 30 x 300s subs than from 15 x 600s? I suspect that it is the signal to noise ratio of the longer exposures. i.e DSLR noise increase with exposure time. But maybe I am missing something?
  13. I have struck apon a conundrum that affects us in the UK more than most, due to the shortness of our weather windows when doing DSLR AP. I just had my camera in the fridge overnight to create a set of BIAS and DARK frames at 15C sensor temperature. When I am taking 180 sec exposures over say 3hrs, to keep the sensor stable at any given temperature I need to insert delays. I have roughly calculated the deltas based on some timings, I still need to do further testing to refine these. - 30 Sec gives me a delta of + 12C - 45 Sec gives me a delta of + 10C - 60 Sec gives me a delta of + 07C So this beg the question, with our weather limiting the time for exposure, is it better to get a set of images say 60, at a range of temperature (12C - 20C) or less lights say 45 at a stable temperature 12C? I am sure there is some SNR that can help to determine when it is better to just capture lights say 20, whereas if you have the above scenario, it is better to sacrifice some lights for stable temperature and less noise.
  14. I got some cracking single exposure shots of Deep Sky objects today after a decent polar alignment. The culmination of everything I’ve learnt so far; a lot of reading and practice. I was totally blown away by the colours in the Orion Nebula which looks like a grey whisp in the eyepiece. 30 seconds of the DSLR sensor sucking in photons made a big difference. All taken using ISO 200 (apart from the double cluster) and 30 second exposures. My questions: Most of the stars are smudged, I tried my best with alignment, is there anything else I can do to minimise this?Are the settings ok? I noticed more detail but also more light pollution using ISO 400 in the double cluster.Will the shots get better and less smudged when I start stacking?Thanks in advance. P.S. The full size shots can be found on my blog - http://astromartian.wordpress.com/
  15. Hi all, heres my attempt at M45 this year. Exposure details: 60x210 seconds, f2.8, ISO 800, calibration frames, 200mm With just under 3 hours 30 minutes this has fallen far from how i wanted it to be. I planned on getting 10 hours! But with cloud forecast all week i'll settle with this till later in the year. I shot using the lens wide open and using the 3rd point focusing method, hoping to have enough light grasp to pick up some of that faint dust in the area. I picked up 7 hours over 2 nights and thats when problems started. My first imaging session was the first time i used my new dew heater, i focused and then turned the heater on which shifted the focus i think, leaving me with over 3 hours of un-stackable data! This image is made up of data from the second session, you can see that the stars appear to trail and i wanted to ask if anyone using this focusing method has ever been left with stars like those in the image? They appear to streak a little bit and look as if they are rotating around a center point. I have spoken to one other person who has experienced this. Because i have recently started using Backyard EOS, im not aware how to set up the live view so you have the 4 intersecting lines (if its even possible) so when focusing i roughly guessed where the intersecting lines would be. If i didnt have the star in the right place, could it have caused the stars to appear the way they do? Anyway, heres the image. Clear skies!
  16. Whilst using my canon with a 200p newt via the usual ring-adapter to focuser prime-focus, I want to add a light-pollution filter but cant figure out if I can use the 2 inch ep type nebula filters between the camera and scope or would need the more expensive 'clip' CLS filters. I dont use a barlow or a barlow type t-adapter - or any other filters - and have the 2inch adapter that comes with sw 200p scopes, but still not sure exactly how either type of lp filter fits between the cam and scope, anyone know how they are attached and what type I can use? Regards Aenima
  17. Good evening, I thought I would try to take a photo of Orion tonight, but using the instructions in a magazine I can't seem to get the thing in focus. Image has been resized, so it looks a little sharper than it is! I have a Nikon D80, with a 50mm 1.8 lens attached. (I don't really have any great lenses - [18-105mm], [55-200mm]) Settings for this photo were ISO 400, F1.8 for 15 seconds. I focused on Jupiter with auto then went to Manual for the shot. Thanks for any tips!!!
  18. This is a very wide angle image of the Night Sky looking east toward Norwich (hence the orange glow) Unfortunately i forgot to take it in RAW so there is a bit of noise evident I used the wide end of a Sigma 10-20mm EX lens on a Canon EOS 60D
  19. Hi all, the weather wasn't promising but I thought I would stay under the rain and take the chance. At sunrise, I started shooting without any filter (humidity and clouds were enough as filters) and I'm so happy I was able to capture Venus passing in front of the sun :D Click to enlarge:
  20. Hi all, this is the Sun as seen from southern Ireland the 07th of July. Single shot taken with a Nikon D3100, Sigma 70-300mm telezoom lens, Baader Solar Filter.
  21. Marci

    M33 - Triangulum

    From the album: Marci’s Astropix

    15x240s@ISO800 Colour (EOS650D) 15x240s@ISO800 HII (EOS1000D FSM + 12nm HII)
  22. wimvb


    From the album: wvb_dso

    NGC1499 17 * 3 and 4 mins frames
  23. Aenima

    Comet Catalina

    From the album: The next step.

    Was really chuffed to catch this comet, especially with the two tails. This i believe is the 5th comet i've caught 'on film' as it were. Along with Panstarrs - ISON - Jacques, and Lovejoy (forgot the numerical names). Equipment: ED80 - / 350D -/ EQ6 -/ CLS clip
  24. From the album: DSO Imaging

    M52 20 x 3 min guided subs 10 each flat, bias and darks
  25. IanL

    DSLR M33

    From the album: Deep Sky

    Imager: Sky-Watcher Evostar 80ED DS-Pro, Sky-Watcher 0.85x Focal Reducer, Canon EOS 500D (Unmodified), Hutech IDAS LPS P2 2", APT - Astro Photography Tool Guider: Orion ST80, QHY 5, PHD 2 Mount: Sky-Watcher NEQ6, AstroTortilla, EQMod Processing: PixInsight 1.8 Dates: Friday 31st October, 2014 LIghts: 61 x 300seconds ISO400 (~5.1 hours) Darks: 109 Flats: 100 Bias: 330 (Processed Using PixInsight SuperBias module). I tried three different integrations in PixInsight - normal, Bayer Drizzle (1x with 1.0 drop size) and Drizzle 2x with 0.9 drop size. The Bayer drizzle did a better job on the colour as you'd expect - less bleeding of colour in/out of stars, but resolution and overall quality doesn't seem much better than standard integration. This version presented above uses the standard drizzle to produce a 2x larger image with much better resoluton. There is a noticeable difference in the size of small stars, roundness of larger stars and many more tiny stars in the galaxy arms. Even when downsampled for presentation (5x in this case) the image is much superior.

    © Ian Lauwerys 2014, All Rights Reserved

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