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The ISS was predicted to cross the Sun's disk at 15:53:29s on Wednesday. The event was visible in a 6km wide track near my location. Using a home made Baader solar filter on my SW 130 PDS and my DSLR with EOS Utilities I captured the moment, rather poorly. There are 2 GIFs. One is real time as the transit lasted a whole 0.55 seconds and the other is the same GIF slowed down a bit. With hindsight I could have got the image scale up but it was all a bit hectic.- 11 replies
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Hie all. I currently have an 8" GSO reflector newtonian(1200mm focal length, f/6 focal ratio) and i have spent a year observing and manually tracking planets and deep space objects. I recently purchased a nikon d5500, a t ring, uhc broadband filter and a 32mm telephoto projection superview eyepiece. I have a few doubts though. I connect my eyepiece to my dslr directly using the t ring. As this eyepiece doesnt need and extra adaptors. I recently calculated the amount of time a star or deep space object would take to go out of my FOV. It takes about 4.8 mins. So what if i t -
Hi guys, Just a little advice required please. Wanting to try imaging with a dslr. I have the opportunity to snag a mint Canon 50d for a few hundred pounds, 2 batteries, all leads, and original discs and box. Firstly are these used widely in AP and secondly is this a good deal? Feedback and comments welcome.
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Ok....ill start by admitting that I thought I was imaging the North American Nebula but missed and never noticed it was the Pelican until the processing. 4 x 10min, ISO 800 frames, no bias, no flats, no darks. Canon 1000D cooled to -4c at the camera sensor using my home made DSLR cooler box, CLS clip in filter. 130P-DS with a MPCC MK3. This was first light for my cooled camera and had some teething issues so only for 4 frames before it got light. I am am thinking its quite good considering but not much to reference that against. Also pleased by the noise reduction, not
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Dear all! I am looking for a good Grab and Go Scope / Tele lens with a total price tag below 1000 EUR. I have 5 candidates so far: (1) TS Imaging Star 70mm f/6,78 QUADRUPLET ED - Flatfield ED Refractor - 474mm focal length 599 Euro, no TSFLAT2 necessary + case 60 = 660 euros. astrobin sample w/ DSLR: https://www.astrobin.com/160820/ (2) Skywatcher dublet Apo 80/600 EvoStar ED OTA, FPL 53, 649 Euros +case 60 + flattener 179 = 890 Euros astrobin sample w/ DSLR: http://www.astrobin.com/236429/ (3) TS Imaging Star 65mm f/6.5 Quadruplet Astrograph - 44 mm field diameter 9 -
OK, so i am considering a long term move from my trusty DSLR to a pure astro cam. I sort of figured out the following things (just my opinion!): A DSLR like my Canon EOS 550D gives a large, decent sensor at an affordable price - zero (if you already own one). In order to really step things remarkably up, i'll probably have to go Mono and cooled - it does not make sense to shell out 4 figures for a small change. I would also like to go for the hubble palette- lets do it right the first try... This means that the investment for me will be at least camera + computer c
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I had a successful session the night before last - my first with guiding using the ASi120MM on my ST80, atop my ED80 through which I imaged with my unmodified Canon 1100D and focal reducer. I was pleased with this image using 13 x 300 second lights with darks and flat frames: Then last night I thought I would try M51 and things have not gone so well. However I only took 6 x 400 second lights, 3 darks and used the previous flats as still ISO800. This was my first image out of DSS with a star detection of 50 stars: There appears to be a distinct lack of colour, I did moved the right hand RGB/K -
Hello everyone! I have recently been thinking about the possibility of having my camera modified for astrophotography, but know very little about the subject, and have a good few questions: How much would I gain from this process? As far as I know, the effects of removing IR-Block filters, considerably improves the imaging of H-Alpha objects, but by how much? Roughly how much would this process cost me? How unusable would the camera then become for terrestrial photography? From what I know, it is bad, but editing can improve the situation. If I decided to get my camera modded, where would be
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I got some cracking single exposure shots of Deep Sky objects today after a decent polar alignment. The culmination of everything I’ve learnt so far; a lot of reading and practice. I was totally blown away by the colours in the Orion Nebula which looks like a grey whisp in the eyepiece. 30 seconds of the DSLR sensor sucking in photons made a big difference. All taken using ISO 200 (apart from the double cluster) and 30 second exposures. My questions: Most of the stars are smudged, I tried my best with alignment, is there anything else I can do to minimise this?Are the settings ok? I noticed mo -
Although I'm more interested in visual astronomy, I still think it's fun to try some basic astrophotography every now and then. However, I don't think I have the time or patience to get into "proper" prime focus DSO stuff (ordered Making Every Photon Count out of curiosity anyway, you never know, right!?). At least for the time being. But I do want to get started with some widefield work this year, both still images and time lapse videos. I'm currently investigating the various options when it comes to tracking platforms such as iOptron SkyTracker/Skyguider, AstroTrac, Vixen Polarie and so on.
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Hi, I was wondering if it was possible to use a DSLR in black and white mode and then use either LRGB filters or narrow band filters to build up a colour image? Reason being is that I am thinking of buying a dedicated astro camera. Probably the ZWO ASI120MM or MC. I didn't want to buy the MC if I would soon regret not buying the MM due to the limiting possibilities of a colour camera, but I didn't want to buy the MM if faffing about with filters was going to be too much for me. It then occurred to me that if it would work, I could experiment with my DSLR in B&W mode then I could see if I h
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I have struck apon a conundrum that affects us in the UK more than most, due to the shortness of our weather windows when doing DSLR AP. I just had my camera in the fridge overnight to create a set of BIAS and DARK frames at 15C sensor temperature. When I am taking 180 sec exposures over say 3hrs, to keep the sensor stable at any given temperature I need to insert delays. I have roughly calculated the deltas based on some timings, I still need to do further testing to refine these. - 30 Sec gives me a delta of + 12C - 45 Sec gives me a delta of + 10C - 60 Sec gives me a delta of + 07C So thi -
I have a problem with stacking images from my 5D MK3, the files are huge, I’ve tried both- Astroart V5 and DSS, Astroart fails to stack the CR2’s because of a memory issue? Deep sky stacker gets there in the end but the colour is washed out and no amount of tweaking can get an acceptable result. Pixinsight – er well it’s so long winded I cannot for the life of me understand it; I suppose I would have to batch convert all the .CR2 files into .Fits then process .. am I correct? Any thoughts? -
Hello everyone! I have recently been looking into deep-sky imaging, and related equipment. My telescope is a SW200p, and I already have an unmodded Canon EOS 1100D, but I've been thinking about moving into the world of CCD deep-sky imaging. My budget is approx. £500, and at that budget, the best I could get in terms of deep-sky CCDs is the Atik Titan (Mono). However, I was wondering whether I would get any major improvements over my DSLR, and whether it'd be the best use for my money. Here is what I know... Pros: Mono camera has capability of being used for luminance, and can use a variety of
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So been at the this imaging malarchy for a couple of months and sometimes things just don't seem rational. Why do I get better results from 30 x 300s subs than from 15 x 600s? I suspect that it is the signal to noise ratio of the longer exposures. i.e DSLR noise increase with exposure time. But maybe I am missing something?
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First Galaxy of 2013 and 5 NGCs Taken with a 7D and 600mm f4 lens at f5.6 30 x 4 minute, 30 x 2 minute and 30 x 1 minute lights at iso 1600 plus 3 x 20 darks and flats and shot in raw, Processed in DSS and then PixInsight and PS It could be better if I could process this stuff properly but I'm relatively happy with it
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Whilst using my canon with a 200p newt via the usual ring-adapter to focuser prime-focus, I want to add a light-pollution filter but cant figure out if I can use the 2 inch ep type nebula filters between the camera and scope or would need the more expensive 'clip' CLS filters. I dont use a barlow or a barlow type t-adapter - or any other filters - and have the 2inch adapter that comes with sw 200p scopes, but still not sure exactly how either type of lp filter fits between the cam and scope, anyone know how they are attached and what type I can use? Regards Aenima
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This is a very wide angle image of the Night Sky looking east toward Norwich (hence the orange glow) Unfortunately i forgot to take it in RAW so there is a bit of noise evident I used the wide end of a Sigma 10-20mm EX lens on a Canon EOS 60D
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Hi all gazers, i am having second thoughts about getting a crayford for my C9.25 (non HD) and that is because of the 0.63 Reducer / Flattener that i am imaging with. As camera i use the Nikon D7100. According to my calculations, and what i have read on internet, the optimal distance between the reducer and the chip is 105mm, the only focuser that allows for this distance (107-ish mm) is the feathertouch with the "shorty" sct-adapter witch is 56mm, my nikon T2-flange to the chip is 50mm. The Steeltrack and moonlite is far to long (93 and 91mm) But, according to some people, i can put my FR afte
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Hi all, heres my attempt at M45 this year. Exposure details: 60x210 seconds, f2.8, ISO 800, calibration frames, 200mm With just under 3 hours 30 minutes this has fallen far from how i wanted it to be. I planned on getting 10 hours! But with cloud forecast all week i'll settle with this till later in the year. I shot using the lens wide open and using the 3rd point focusing method, hoping to have enough light grasp to pick up some of that faint dust in the area. I picked up 7 hours over 2 nights and thats when problems started. My first imaging session was the first time i used my new dew he
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Good evening, I thought I would try to take a photo of Orion tonight, but using the instructions in a magazine I can't seem to get the thing in focus. Image has been resized, so it looks a little sharper than it is! I have a Nikon D80, with a 50mm 1.8 lens attached. (I don't really have any great lenses - [18-105mm], [55-200mm]) Settings for this photo were ISO 400, F1.8 for 15 seconds. I focused on Jupiter with auto then went to Manual for the shot. Thanks for any tips!!! -
Hello nice people of SGL, I have recently modded my Lifecam Studio for guiding and I must say it is an amazing webcam that performs really will in low light. with 1sec exposure I had no problem finding good star for guiding. However, a few nights ago I realised that after about 10 minutes the webcam gets really hot and that adds noise to the guiding image, and the guiding becomes a bit inaccurate. So I decided to mod it even further and add a cooling fan to it. I managed to flatten the heat exchanged that is on the webcam and attach a Fan&HE to it. but what I now notice (without trying it -
I had a quick go at the Witch's Broom on Sunday (10/11/13). Seeing wasn't too great, and I was battling the moon which was within 45 degrees of the target at a guess. This is an unmodded DSLR version, hence the relative lack of Red/Ha in the nebula. I've pushed it as far as I think I can without turning the whole background and fainter stars completely red. AstroBin version: http://www.astrobin.com/64051/0/ Capture Details Frames: 5x1800" ISO400Imaging scopes: Sky-Watcher Evostar 80ED DS-ProFocal reducer: Sky-Watcher 0.85xFilter: Hutech IDAS LPS P2 2"Imaging camera: Canon EOS 500D Unmodifi
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Thought it might be interesting to show a comparison of images taken with a DLSR and a webcam. Especially since they were taken on the same night, through the same telescope, right after each other. DSLR image: Skywatcher 80ED + FF/FR, Canon 1000D, 1/250, F6.35, ISO100. 100 frames. Processed in PIPP & Registax 6. Webcam: Skywatcher 80ED + FF/FR, Philips SPC900NC. Composite mosaic of 7 panels, each panel 180 frames. Processed in Registax 6 & Microsoft ICE. Hope you like them and all comments welcome.
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Hi all, Finally a gap through the clouds! Took this picture 10 minutes ago with my Nikon D3100 and a Sigma 70-300mm telezoom lens. Baader Solar Filter, 300 mm at ISO 100 F/30; Raw edited and converted to JPEG using Adobe Lightroom. Click to Enlarge:
