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Found 247 results

  1. After a few months of getting used to my new 8 inch beast, I decided to start astrophotography (luckily today is Black Friday in most tech shops in my country). So I decided to drop the idea of buying a DSLR and started thinking about getting a webcam. The thing is that I want to try deepsky AP, so i was wondering, is there a webcam that could get me good results for DSO AP? Don't worry, I don't want anything too fancy because I'll be happy with entry-level images. (i saw some nice Andromeda pictures with 20GBP cameras on this forum so I'm confident that it would work). My budget is ±100 GBP, which in my opinion is more than enough for a good webcam . So... is it worth getting a webcam? Or is there something better? Should I wait and raise more money for a DSLR? Thanks a lot! Astrid
  2. I would like to share my first picture ever posted and the first real picture captured with my Tecnosky 80/480 APO FPL53 Triplet OWL Series (not counting the test shots for "first light"). This is IC 1805, also known as the Heart Nebula, taken over 4 nights, under my Bortle 5 home sky. Total integration time: 8h 52m 20s. Here are the acquisition details: Mount: Sky-Watcher NEQ6 Pro Telescope: Tecnosky 80/480 APO FPL53 Triplet OWL Series Camera: D5300 astromodified Reducer/flattener: Tecnosky 4 elements, 0.8x Guide-scope: Artesky UltraGuide 60mm f/4 Guide-camera: ZWO ASI 224MC 2020/10/07: Number of subs/Exposure time: 1@60s + 80@90s. Notes: No filter, Moon 70% illuminated 2020/10/13: Number of subs/Exposure time: 2@60s + 11@180s + 1@200s + 12@240s. Notes: L-Pro filter, no Moon 2020/10/27: Number of subs/Exposure time: 59@180s + 1@240s. Notes: L-Pro filter, Moon 88% illuminated 2020/10/28: Number of subs/Exposure time: 48@180s. Notes: L-Pro filter, Moon 93% illuminated Total exposure time: 31940s = 8h 52m 20s. Pre and post-processing: PixInsight 1.8.8-6. Unfortunately, the best out of the 4 sessions (no Moon and L-Pro filter) was also the shortest one. But, after waiting for 5 months for my telescope, I couldn't pass up the few clear skies opportunities I got since it arrived, Moon or no Moon. Here's a link to the full resolution image: Heart Nebula (IC 1805) Thanks for looking and commenting!
  3. From the album: Peggson's astrophotos

    I shot this yesterday from a Bortle 6 backyard. Edited in Pixinsight and Photoshop If someone here knows how to remove purple stars, please help me . I tried defringing but it didn't really work. Also the date is wrong should be 9.10.2020. lol

    © Peggson's photo

  4. Hello, I'm selling these 2 filters since I'm getting a mono astro cam. The filters are barely used and in perfect condition, no scratches, no fingerprints, not even dust. They are both amazing filters, probably the best investment I've made. I've attached some images taken with these filters, using a 100$ celestron newtonian, a 250$ Canon 500D and the infamous AVX. Also attached are images of the filters showing their perfect condition. Astronomik CLS-CCD Canon Clip in Filter: https://www.astronomik.com/en/filter-gegen-lichtverschmtzung-filters-against-lightpollution-lpr/cls-ccd-filter/clip-filter-eos-mit-astronomik-cls-ccd.html Original price including VAT is 155 Euros (around USD 182). I got it for around USD230 including VAT, shipping and custom taxes. Selling for USD 100. Astronomik Ha 12nm Canon Clip in Filter: https://www.astronomik.com/en/clip-filter/clip-filter-canon-aps-c/clip-filter-eos-mit-astronomik-h-alpha-ccd-12nm.html Original price including VAT 194 Euros (around USD 228). Got it for around USD 270 including VAT, shipping and custom taxes. Selling for USD 150 I am willing to ship them on my own expense using LibanPost (from Lebanon). Shipping might take time; if you would like to use some other shipment method please contact me to discuss the price. Feel free to buy one or both together. Let me know if you have any questions. You can also contact me on <private email address removed> Cheers, Anthony
  5. I have already posted my first astrophotographic session report in the telescope review thread: Tecnosky 80/480 APO FPL53 Triplet OWL Series - Review. But since that is more of a general review/diary of my experience with the new telescope, I feel some of the issues I am having are being buried and they will probably get more visibility if I post them - in a more synthetic version - in a dedicated thread. So, a few nights ago (October, the 5th) I took out my new telescope for its first light. All the photos have been taken with the 0.8x flattener/reducer and the Optolong L-Pro 2" filter attached to the reducer. The camera is an astromodified Nikon D5300. The only processing the following pictures have consists in this: - AutomaticBackgroundExtractor - ColorCalibration - Stretch Here we have a 90s shot of M31. And here's a mosaic generated with the AberrationInspector script. What I do like: - tightest, smallest, roundest stars I have gotten since I started doing astrophotography at the end of January. Obviously comparing it to what I have been achieving with a kit 70-300mm zoom lens, these can't be anything else but better by orders of magnitude What I don't like: - star shape not consistent in all areas of the image - residual chromatic aberration, especially on stars that are not round: there's clearly some red and blue edges visible I didn't expect this from an apochromatic refractor, but maybe it's just because the stars are kinda "smeared", so not all light is focused at the same spot? I don't see this around the center of the image (or, at least, the problem is less pronounced). Maybe I have some tilting in my imaging train/sensor? I have been doing some reasoning about it and it seems like a combination of tilting and/or backfocus spacing. According to the following image about backfocus spacing: if the stars are elongated radially, the sensor is too close, if they are elongated tangentially, the sensor is too far. But to me it seems I have a little bit of both: in the top right corner, for example, the stars look radially elongated, in the bottom right, they look tangentially elongated. Top left they look tangentially elongated, bottom left also, but a little less. Seems like there has to be some tilting as well, otherwise they would all have a symmetric shape on all corners, correct? How do I determine - is there even a way - if the issue is due to tilting only, backfocus only, or the combination of the two? Is there a sure proof way of checking for tilting? Like, rotating the camera and taking pictures with, say, the camera at 0°, 90°, 270° and 360°? If there's tilting, the pattern of the star shapes should follow the camera, correct? I also tried splitting the channels in R, G, and B components, doing a star alignment of the blue and red channels with the green as a reference, and recombining the channels. The blue and red edges become a lot less evident, which is good, but obviously the star shapes remain the same. In my Telescopius gallery you can also find two other images, Capella and Capella Mosaic showing pretty much the same issues. Also, one issue with the guide camera: ZWO ASI 224MC. When attached to the guide scope (Artesky UltraGuide 60mm f/4), I can't seem to get a "sharp" focus, I even tried on the Moon, and the best I got was a soft lunar disc, with some major features visible, mainly by change of color/brightness (the maria, for example), but no details. The image still seemed blurred/bloated. Is it because of lack of IR blocking filter? I tried the same camera attached to the main refractor, with the L-Pro filter (which blocks UV and IR, as well) and I could focus perfectly. Do I need an IR block filter for guiding or even if the stars appear a little soft, the camera guides just fine? Matteo
  6. Having previously got some reasonable images by mounting a smart phone to the eyepiece. I thought I would try for a more sophisticated set up. So last night I tried to get some pictures of the moon using a Canon Eos D450 connected to a Skywatcher 130p Newtonian via a T2 connection on the eyepiece holder. As the camera has automatic focusing built into the lens I thought I would have to adjust the focuser on the eyepiece holder to manually get a sharp image. Basically the telescope acting as a manually focused lens for the camera. But no joy, I just got a bright light which seemed to fill the camera view finder. I tried various settings on the camera, adjusting ISO and aperture etc, I also had some extention rings for the camera lens so tired fitting those to extend the focal length but no better. I sure there are many palms being slapped against foreheads reading this but as you can tell I have no idea, although I do have some of the gear. Any pointers and/or advise would be gratefully received.
  7. Hello all, I'm new to this forum and astrophotography, and observing for that matter! I've been observing for a few weeks now, well, when the clouds allow, obviously! I thought I'd dip my toe in the water as far as imaging goes, but didn't want to go nuts in terms of budget. As luck would have it I managed to get hold of a Canon 1100D on eBay complete with full spectrum mod for £129, which seemed pretty reasonable to me given the cost of the modification on its own. The camera is in great condition and seems to work fine, however I have a couple of queries that I hope you more experienced peeps can help with. Firstly I would like to get an OWB filter and wondered if anyone had an opinion on Optolong vs Astronomik? Astronomic are a lot more expensive so if the Optolong does a good job why spend extra? Second, and more importantly, I have questions about auto focus. It seems that generally people say that if the IR/UV cut filter is completely removed then the camera will definitely lose the ability to auto focus (although some people say this isn't the case?). I checked with the eBay vendor and he confirmed that the in-built filter has been completely removed and no glass / filter replacement has been put back in place, which if my understanding is correct is what is required to retain auto focus. However, the camera seems to be auto focusing fine as far as I can tell. How can this be? Thanks.
  8. Can I reach focus with a DSLR and a focal reducer like with a barlow because my telescope does not have enough inward focus .
  9. A second hand Canon 450D that has had the IR filter and anti-aliasing filters removed. This is known as the Full-Spectrum (or naked sensor) modification. This enhances the camera's sensitivity to Hydrogen Alpha wavelengths greatly. Ideal for shooting emission nebulae, as well as making it a great candidate for Hydrogen Alpha filters. The camera has been modified by myself. It includes the camera body itself, body cap, battery, charger, plug, strap and I'll throw in an EOS-T2 T ring. Bit of cosmetic wear to the camera as to be expected. Note: removing the IR filters means that you'll need to add an astro-friendly IR filter back into the imaging train. This is usually achieved with filters like the Astronomik CLS-CCD filter (for example). Just check the description and make sure it has UV/IR cut. £150 + £11 Postage (Royal Mail Special Delivery)
  10. From the album: Deep Sky Imaging

    I managed to get some time to process another of my images exposed in January/February 2020. This was the last image when my USB port on my Astro40D failed. This happened while imaging this scene but it happened toward the end of the imaging plan so I got almost the subs that I wanted. The total exposure time was 16 hours and 16 minutes in ISO1600 for all of the subs, RGB, (OSC through the UV/IR Cut filter), HAlpha and OIII. Imaged through my 8" SCT at f6.3, 1280mm FL.

    © Mariusz Goralski

  11. Hello! This is my first post on stargazer’s lounge, so forgive me if this is the wrong place to ask. I have a SkyWatcher AZ-GTi mount (with a firmware update + eq wedge so that it can run in eq mode). I also have a Raspberry Pi 4 with INDI, KStars, and Ekos tools. I don’t have a guidescope (and my budget is extremely limited), so I was wondering if there was a way to polar align my DSLR using just the software running on the Raspberry Pi. I’m also competent in Python, if that could be useful for anything.
  12. I've been having another crack at DSO imaging lately, and I've managed to produce this from 6 hours of integration: I'm quite pleased with it but I'm very new to image processing, so I'd be incredibly grateful if someone wouldn't mind having a go at processing my data! Image Info: Lights: 46x4min + 66x3min Stacked with Dark, Flat and Bias frames Stacked in DSS and processed in GIMP Taken under Bortle 7/8 skies Gear: SkyWatcher ED80 0.85x Reducer Astro-Modified EOS 600D ZWO ASI 120MM Mini Guide Camera with 9x50 Finderscope HEQ5 Pro Mount There's some dust bunnies and other artefacts on the image that I know I could spend more time removing, however I'm wondering if I'm doing my data justice in processing! Thanks, Tom NGC7023 (2).TIF
  13. Hi guys, So on Tuesday night I spent the evening imaging the moon with my Celestron 9.25 SCT and DSLR as shown below and am happy with the images I collated (I only took images as I did intend to take capture video but I got carried away and time was getting on). I have approx 350 jpeg (and the equivalent in raw) images and have used the Microsoft image composite editor to stitch the frames together without editing them first etc but I wonder if I'm going the images an injustice? I'm not ready to pay for editing software as I know there is a lot of very good free downloads out there and I'm asking for recommendations. Should I be processing the frames before/after stitching and what software would you recommend? Please offer any advice you have. I will post the resulting image once I'm happy with the outcome Thanks in advance!
  14. Hi all, My last imaging for this season resulted in 11 x 10 minutes on M51, but I already had 23 x 15 minutes from previous seasons so here is some 7 1/2 hours of data. The 23x15 minutes subs were taken under a pretty dark sky (SQM-L = 21.65), while the rest were approx 21.5. Used a modded Nikon D7000 in a 8" Meade LX200-ACF on HEQ5 Pro, guided with NexGuide. I am still amazed that stars were pinpoint in all 23 of the 15 minutes subs. I guess it helped that the OTA was pointing near zenith so flexure and mirror lock issues should have been minimal. Nowadays I stick to max 10 minutes subs. Ragnar
  15. With so little time left of this season, I pointed my Meade LX200-ACF to Coma Berenices so I would get as many galaxies as possible in one single frame. Used a Nikon D7000, HEQ5 Pro and NexGuide. Two nights gave a total of 6-7 hours of 10 minutes subs (1600mm F/7.8 iso200). Ragnar
  16. With 15 hours of 8-10 minutes exposures from different locations, this was my last trophy for this season. Captured with my modded D7000 and Meade LX200-ACF on a HEQ5 Pro, guided with NexGuide. With the reducer I used that was approx. 1600 mm FL @ F/8. Ragnar
  17. Hi all, I am hoping someone might be able to help with a possible way to shoot dark and bias frames on a DSLR (canon 700D) without the need to cover the scope or camera, ideally using APT scripts My thinking is that the camera, has a noise reduction mode where it will take the light shot, then with the shutter closed it will take a dark frame and subtract it from the light. So could you take a series of dark frames on ATP and lock the shutter down? If anyone knows I would love to know. Would be great to automate the lights, park the scope and have it run darks and bias, without the need to go out to it and cap up at 3.-4 in the morn Thanks Matt @astro_pics_uk
  18. Hello! I have a question on how can I mount my camera to my Sky-Watcher Starquest 130P telescope? I’ve watched so many videos about it and there’s so many different answers on what I need to do that. At the moment, I have 2x Barlow lens and a DSLR. I know that a T-ring is also necessary but is there anything more? Any help is highly appreciated, thanks! (I’m really new to telescopes and astrophotography in general so I hope I don’t say anything dumb)
  19. beka

    DSLR M31

    Hi All, Having had to move to an apartment where I could not use my CPC 1100, I decided that I have to see what I could do with my NexStar SLT 102 (alt-az achromatic 102mm f6.47 refractor). Setting up on my narrow balcony was challenging and the altitude bearing was so loose that it almost moved from the weight of the Canon 700D. I could not see M31 in the estimated 3.5 magnitude sky so I did a two star alignment and used the live-view to focus on a bright star. I then took a 15 second exposure after slewing to M31 which allowed me to see that I had it in the field of view. After a few more 15 second exposures and playing with the motion controls I managed to get it centered. The resulting picture is from 39 subs of 30 seconds at ISO 1600, 9 flats. The images were stacked and stretched with Siril and then I played with the curves on Gimp, cropped and scaled. Not too unhappy.
  20. Just thought i'll bring this up as a point of discussion. Today, cooled CMOS Astro Cameras are available in plenty. QHY, ZWO and other variants of the same camera are selling for very reasonable prices. However, there was a point of time when astrophotographers used to cool down their DSLR's as a cheap OSC alternative to CCD cameras. Give a choice, I would've purchased a dedicated CMOS OSC which can cool to 40 C below ambient, but since I had a Canon 500D which I had self modded, I requested a friend Kaustav Chatterjee (an avid model railroader) to cold mod my 500D (he had cold modded his 1000D long back). This newly modded camera has a TEC12703 single peltier and cools to approximately 20 below ambient.What do you guys think?
  21. Hi all, This is 6 hours (30 x 12 min), taken with my modded Nikon D7000 @iso200 and Astronomik 12 nm Ha 2" filter on Meade LX200-ACF with reducer (=1600 mm FL @ F8). Guided with NexGuide on HEQ5 Pro. The plan was to do a Ha O3 bicolour on this target, but the O3 may be a future thing due to weather conditions. I usually remove the stars during part of my processing workflow and put them back later on, but this time I think the nebulosity and dust came out best without them. I did however try to find out which stars belong to Melotte 15 and include only those, just to portrait the Melotte 15 without anything between it and us, but I could not find that info. Processed with DSS, Starnet and PS. Ragnar
  22. I was looking to get into astrophotography with my 10 inch dobson and for start would like to buy something affordable. Cameras can be used or new. Thanks in advance!
  23. We are running a session at my local society on transits and occultations. One station will focus on exoplanet transits, and we'd like to build a very simple model to demonstrate this. We have a star (light source) and an orbiting "planet" but I need to work out how to detect the changes in light intensity and display this on a laptop, like a classical transit photometry trace below (taken from https://heasarc.gsfc.nasa.gov/docs/tess/primary-science.html). Is there a way to take a feed from a DSLR through the USB output to do this, else I could get an adapter for my ZWO and put an EOS lens on the front of that. I really do want a light intensity vs time trace in real time on the laptop. This model will be run in a darkened room. Thanks for any comments. James
  24. Hiya, have absolutely no idea where to begin finding a camera for Astrophotography. And by that I mean - I know I want a canon but am unsure which to buy. It will be a second hand one. Does it need to be full frame ? Can any and all models be modified ? Is a higher pixel count the way to go ? What are the important things to look for in a DSLR ? any help would be great. Thanks Neil
  25. Back in early Feb I tried imaging Markarian's Chain, but after 2 subs I encountered guiding issues (a first for me) so had to give up. So just for kicks and giggles, I decided to process them! ? So this is 2 x 10mins. With the D5300, 80ED and HEQ5-Pro. 'Stacked' (if it's even right to use that term!) in APP, and processed in PS. Then reduced to 75% for posting. Why oh why oh why..... I honestly don't even know myself ?
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