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Hi guys, i have a celestron astromaster 130eq and am having great trouble focusing my dslr with it. I have T-adapters etc and a Barlow lens on the way. I am hoping to get some tips on how to focus it without having to buy too many more accessories. For example I am able to find and see the Orion Nebula fairly well with my 20mm eyepiece without the dslr but when it comes to attaching the dslr I cannot get it to focus! Thanks guys, hopefully someone has a suggestion. ?
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Hi, I have been looking for parts for my new telescope project, I have spent much time on finding the little more special parts. I think it could be usefull for others and have written down the links to vendors and manufacturers of equipment of astronomy I have found at my website: http://astrofriend.eu/links/links.html Most pages have an "English " button. I hope it will be usefull for your special astronomy project ! I will add more links later. I wish you all A Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year! /Lars
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I'm want to get into AP iamging DSOs but have focusing issues - nothing new there I guess. My basic question is this: Is it possible to use a DSLR and USB link to display live images on a Windows PC (or Android Tablet) with sufficient resolution to use a Bahtinov grating for focusing? If so, which DSLR have people used in this way? And which software? I have been trying without success to use my Sony A300 DSLR but the built-in LCD display is far too low resolution to see the fringes from a Bahtinov grating. The grating works great with an eyepiece so nothing wrong with the
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Finally I had a chance to image this classic "beginner" target. Turns out it wasn´t as easy as I thought Anyway, here is my first version. Will probably try a "harder" edit further on. I know it looks a bit soft but I didn´t hit the noise reduction hard. Might be the result of slight out of focus? However, the stars look sharp enough. Canon EOS 550D (modded) Skywatcher 150-PDS 55*5 minutes at ISO800. Pixinsight and Photoshop for stacking and editing.
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I am looking for a monochrome conversion service for a Canon 6D, tried JTW, they don't work on 6D's
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Hi all! It's been a while since I wrote here, also because this year I've been less active in the field, unfortunately... Anyway, I've now started to do autoguiding, with mixed results. I bought myself a laptop and guidescope, with CCD. I'm able to do 10 minute exposures that come out fairly well most of the time. Guiding is mostly good. I tried PHD as well as Maxim, but lately Maxim seems to be doing better, or I just found the sweet spot for my setup. The last 2 or 3 times however, I'm having difficulty in obtaining decent images. Even with no moon, the images I get are q
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Hello Everyone, My name is Forest Fernandez. I am a hobbyist Photographer that just started getting interested in Astrophotography. I started last year in 2016 with my current set up, a Canon 5D Mk3 w/ a Rokinon 24mm on Tripod with a shutter release. In my about me section you can go to my facebook where i have some of my photographs that i've taken. I will try to include some of them in this post as well. I went out every night last summer to take photos, really diving in to try to learn as much as i could. I fell in love! I am now interested in buying a
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(A short presentation of a processing step that may come in handy.) My camera has all kinds of features to teach me image processing: high noise, hot pixels, amp glow, and on bright stars even reverse blooming. Reverse blooming is when dark lines emanate from bright, saturated stars. Normal blooming causes the light to spill over in other pixels of a (CCD) sensor row or column, while reverse blooming causes dark lines. I have seen it in several instances, and it seems most common in dslr's: http://www.cloudynights.com/topic/518196-troubleshooting-image-artifacts/?hl=blooming#ent -
So, did I just manage to flukily capture a satellite alongside the moon tonight?? EOS650D, 55-200mm kit zoom @ 200mm, ISO200 Singleshot. Deconvolved, cropped & processed in LightroomCC & PhotoshopCC.
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Hello! I have been looking through the forums sections of this site and found that nichrome wire is a very popular material for dew heaters. I was using my DSLR a several weeks back, and the dew was horrible and it encouraged me to build a nichrome heater. My first heater prototype consisted of 22" of wire with a resistance of 4.08 ohm per foot connected directly into a 12V power supply (consisting of 8 AA batteries in parallel). It was wrapped in duck tape. It worked for a while, but then the batteries began to overheat and I had to pull the heater out to let them cool. When
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Hi All, Just after some advice. I have been imaging for about 4 months. I have recently tackled the heart nebula (see below) but have really struggled with detail despite getting 70 x 5min subs, with 50 x darks and 50 x bias. I'm currently using an unmodded canon 70D DSLR with a 80mm APO triplet mounted on a NEQ6. The question is, will getting my camera modded make a significant difference to the image. I am toying with the idea of getting it modded or bite the bullet and buy a cooled CCD camera. Please excuse the over-processing, I'm a total novice when it comes to Photosh
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Hello Can I ask what is the current wisdom to connect a Dslr to a Newtonian. I have a skywatcher 150pds. Is the right way to try and achieve prime focus? Or is it advisable to use a Barlow? And if this is the case does it need to be a good one if it's for imaging? Obviously this will be used in conjunction with a coma corrector Baader. I have no idea what gives the best results in Astrophotography and as I haven't bought them yet I would like to hear your ideas. I notice for example there is a standard celestron Barlow but also ED types and others. My camera is a Canon 5
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I've been following a few threads around the web re difficulties achieving the 105mm spacing with off axis guider fitted. I've found a simple elegant way of managing it so thought I'd share . Using a Baader SCT clickloc , ovl oag and a revelation M48 2" 20mm extender gives almost exactly 50mm to DSLR t ring ... Costly but not if you're already using a Clickloc The M48 2" eyepiece fitment that comes with the ovl oag has a step of about 1.0 mm which is where the revelation extender comes in. This arrangement gives 50mm (possibly 50.2 allowing for dodgy tape measure) from
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A lot of people have asked me about the iso setting and what is going on inside the DSLR camera. I have tried to do a simple tutorial about this on my homepage: http://astrofriend.eu/astronomy/tutorials/tutorial-iso-dslr/tutorial-iso-dslr.html Now when DSLR cameras get better and better it's not that big advantages to use high iso setting. On earlier high noise readout cameras you could raise the signal above the readoutnoise by using a high iso setting (but depends on the camera if the amplifier was good enough), but in the same time you lower the dynamic range. With a b
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Hi everyone, I'm looking to buy an 8" newt for astrophotography with my Canon 6D full frame. I'm really only going to be using it for imaging so visual problems (such as back focus) aren't too much of a concern for me. I'm aware that probably whatever scope I get won't cover a full frame sensor without vignetting, but does anyone have an opinion on which would be the best? I have a CGEM mount and Baader MPCC mkIII. The ones I've been looking at right now are: 1.Orion 8" f/3.9 Newtonian Astrograph 2.Astro-Tech f/4 Imaging Newtonian I've -
I was wondering has anyone converted his/her dslr or mirrorless camera for monochrome imaging? This looks interesting, I was just wondering about the real gain, putting it differently, how much do we loose on microlenses, which come off alongside the Bayer array. I'd be interested in side-by-side shots, under the same conditions: B&W and Bayer version.
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Hi all, I have a Nikon D7200 and recently bought a baader 2.25x Hyperion Barlow and all the nessacery adaptors. I just can't get clear pictures with it. What distance should the Barlow lens be from the dslr chip? Is it 55mm just like a coma corrector? Thanks everyone.
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Hi ive always wanted to get into astrophotography. Here in Sweden at the last year of high school you get to choose whatever topic you want for a project and i chose astrophotography. Now im going through the pain of finding a good kit. The best one ive found is the skywatcher 200pds eq5 that is within my price range. http://www.teleskop-...5-Teleskop.html For a camera i was thinking canon eos1000d or 1100d. I just wanted to ask if this was a ok setup? I know the mount isnt the best but its the best for my budget. -
Astrophotography Scrapbook Vol. 1 Cover Page Lagoon Nebula in Sagittarius ( Messier 8, NGC 6523 ) The Fighting Dragons of Ara ( NGC 6188 ) War and Peace in Scorpius ( NGC 6357 ) Spiral Galaxy NGC 6744 in Pavo Ptolemy's Cluster in Scorpius ( Messier 7, NGC 6475 ) A Million Stars in the Deep South ( NGC 104, 47 Tucanae ) A Wishing Well in Carina ( NGC 3532 ) A Beehive in the Southern Sky ( NGC 2516 ) The Sliver Coin in Sculptor ( NGC 253 ) The Great Nebula
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Hi guys, Scoured Amazon and other book shop reviews for the best book on DSLR imaging and am looking for your opinions. I'm not interested in CCD imaging but understand most books will have sections on this but want to hear from people who have actually used them and are not reviewing the delivery times! Any recommendations would be gratefully received. Clear skies
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Hello all Let me explain my desire and what I'm hoping to achieve. I do not have a dslr so whatever I buy will be my first Astrophotography camera. What I'm hoping to achieve is some good deep sky photos but I wouldn't mind also doing some of the planets as a secondary thing. I have also seen the webcam type imager like the revolution r2 imager which seem to let you see deep sky opjects directly on a screen. Any good? Please can people give their experiences of what is achievable CHEAPLY is the key word. I have also seen that the ASI 120mm is a good camera but seems geare
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Barred Spiral Galaxy NGC 6744 in Pavo NGC 6744 is a Milky Way like barred spiral galaxy in the constellation Pavo. Visible only from lower latitudes, the light we see now left this galaxy around 30 million years ago. Details: Spiral Galaxy NGC 6744 in Pavo. Skywatcher Quattro 10" f4 Newtonian telescope. Skywatcher AZ Eq6 GT Mount. Orion 80mm f5 guide scope and auto guider - PHD2. Baader MPCC Mark 3 Coma Corrector, no filter. Nikon D5300 (unmodified). Field of view (deg) ~ 1.35 x 0.90. ISO800, 14bit NEF, Long Exp. NR on. 44 x 120sec 4th Sept 20
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My first go at imaging m45 shot using a vintage super takumar 135, f3.5 iso640 best 80%of 35 120second subs. The camera was mounted on a star adventurer and polar alignment was rough -
The Lagoon Nebula ( Messier 8, NGC 6523 ) in the constellation Sagittarious. ( click on image to see larger) The Laboon Nebula ( M8 ) is visible to the naked eye under dark skies from most latitudes except the far north. Seemingly covering an area about three times that of the full Moon, M8 actually covers an area somewhat greater than 110 light years and is around 4300 light years from Earth in the Sagittarius-Carina spiral arm of the Milkyway galaxy. ...... The frames for this image where taken back when I was very new to astrophotography and I was exp -
Could use some advice from anyone who has made a DSLR COOL BOX. I have now completed my project, it turned out to be very effective at lowering the temperature of the camera, I managed a 25c drop. However, this caused the coma corrector that attaches the camera / cool box to the scope to significantly drop in temperature also and dew formed on it inside the focusing tube during the imaging session as a result, I image using a 130P-DS Newtonian. It took a couple of hours of cooling for this to occur mind you and as the box is sealed with desiccant inside its only the outside surface of the
