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Showing results for tags 'dslr'.
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Back in early Feb I tried imaging Markarian's Chain, but after 2 subs I encountered guiding issues (a first for me) so had to give up. So just for kicks and giggles, I decided to process them! ? So this is 2 x 10mins. With the D5300, 80ED and HEQ5-Pro. 'Stacked' (if it's even right to use that term!) in APP, and processed in PS. Then reduced to 75% for posting. Why oh why oh why..... I honestly don't even know myself ?
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Hi! I've been imaging from my new spot at UC Berkeley. The astronomy department gave me keys to the roof for astro imaging purposes, and even though it's a heavily light-polluted spot, I'm very happy with the results! Over the past week, I've been able to get some decent (by my newbie standards) shots of the Horsehead & flame nebula, as well as the Leo Triplet. The Horsehead nebula is made with 4 minute subframes at ISO 800, for about 3 hours and 8 minutes of total exposure time. The Leo Triplet is also made of 4 minute subframes at ISO 800, for a total of 2 hours and 46 minutes. I've
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Anyone have experience mounting a finder scope/autoguider (Orion Deluxe Mini 50mm Guide Scope) onto the hotshoe plate on the top of a DSLR camera? The finder scope has a 1 1/4" dovetail base (shoe) and also a adapter plate but I need something with a hotshoe fitting on one side and a plate or a dovetail female on the other. Thanks, Lloyd -
I have an old dslr, which won't connect to a computer anymore (USB isn't responsive, not even as a mass storage device). So, for astrophotography I have to use an intervallometer. The problem with this is that I can't control or monitor my camera remotely (remote = garden -- living room). Another, more annoying problem is that intervallometers have these absurdly small batteries that run low by just being outside, it seems. Especially during the rare clear nights we've had this winter, the intervallometer can't be trusted once the temperature drops below zero. Having nothing better to do,
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Hi guys. Well, I've been giving it some thought for a while now... And while the night skies are shocking at the moment (damn you clouds!!) I've sent my camera away to cheap Astrophotography to have the Baader mod done. I'll finally get some Ha data in my pictures!! Apparently, my 1100D will still be ok in the day time too, using AV mode which is the reason I've chosen this mod. Hope it comes back soon, and the clouds go forth and dissipate so I can post up some new amature photos with a bit more detail!
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Like so many other people on here, I was taking advantage of the clear night on Saturday to get some imaging done. M51 was nice and high in the sky, so I thought I would have a go as I had never tried this particular galaxy before. After a while the guiding was fairly stable (not brilliant, but stable), and there was space on the histogram, so I changed from 5 min subs to 10 min subs in the hope of getting some more faint detail out. The focus was spot on according to the Bahtinov mask, so I am assuming my big soft stars are either seeing, or guiding wobbles. The RMS error for guiding was
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Last night was a bit of a miracle, there was more clear sky than predicted! I set everything up at dusk expecting to be able to do nothing more than practice polar alignment, but I actually managed to get some imaging in as well! Admittedly I had to spend the first half of the night fighting SGPro in order to convince it to actually let the guider settle before opening the shutter again. The first hour of subs needed to be thrown away as they all had lines where PHD was trying to bring the guidestar into the right place after dithering, but SGPro has waltzed on ahead. It turns out that th
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Good Morning, Last night I decided to get myself off the sofa and collect moon images for stacking. It was around 01:00 and the Moon was 3 hours after moon - rise. The viability was OK. Not perfect but I wanted data. Nikon d7200, Sigma 150-600mm Sport +1.4TC gave me a focal length of 1260mm. I was limited to f/9 160sec ISO 1OO. I know that the lens is at its sharpest at f/11 but the image seemed too dark at this aperture. I took around 100 exposures and used Asrostakkert for stacking. The image posted here is optimised for web viewing at a reduced resolution. Ple
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Good Day to you all, I just wanted to share my first real attempt at photographing the Moon. This image is the result of a stack of 50 or so photos processed using Registax. I used my Nikon dslr and a telephoto lens. I would gladly welcome your critique. The image has been optimized for web, the original was over 60mb in size. Thank you Ben
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First attempt at imaging in a while. Probably not a good idea to try this with an unmodified DSLR, but I figured I would give it a go. Only 10x300s subs before the moisture levels really started to rise and everything just became soggy. Lots of problems with guiding as well, 8 out of the 10 had some kind of guidance error show up in the frame (fortunately they were straight lines out and bak in one of the cardinal directions so they mostly got cleared up in stacking). Final image is horribly noisy due to the poor quality of the starting frames, but I am at least back in the saddle again. Someo
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Hi all I'm taking my next huge step after years of visual observing thru my wee etx 80. I am delving into astrophotography. However I have hit a snag in my research, I am wondering what type of dslr mod is required? I seem to find different mods at different prices. I have just purchased a EQ6 Pro mount and ordered a Orion ED80T CF which is a triple APO , i will be ordering a guidescooe and cam shortly. I have DIYd a 120Ah leisure battery pack consisting of 6 x car charger plugs and 4 × USB. Im an electrician, so it shouldn't blow.... The camera i am planning on buying is a 600
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Guys and Girls, Some basic advice around software please. I dont want to choose software that I spend ages learinng and understanding only to find that there is a much more popular/easier/better software program that does the same thing I want but much better. I have learned in the past that this is as time consuming as it is frustrating. There seems to be so many programs out there I'm almost lost! I am after a software program that allows me to focus my Canon 550D DSLR via my laptop when being used in prime focus, including focusing and controlling the shutter and exposure tim
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Does anyone here use the Cannon 700d? Is it any good habing a cmos sensor, or should I go for one with ccd
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Hello, i really want to image deep sky objects and i dont think my RA motor will do the job, so how do i take deep sky images without a long exposure. I heard that you can take diffrent types of pictures and stack them but i didnt understand much of that, so please help me find a way to make good/decent deep sky photos without long exposure. Also, sorry for being inactive but i haven't found anything worth while to post. Clear skies! -
Hello all, I have been taking photographs from a static tripod for awhile now with varying success, mostly landscape shots using a wide angle. I now have an unexpected £300 to potentially spend on an EQ mount but am struggling to understand if that is the best way to progress to the next level. For Christmas my girlfriend bought me the Opektra 500mm (with 2x teleconverter) so I could hopefully take some pictures of planets (It's not a great piece of glass basically a cheap telescope with a t-mount fixed at f/8 with manual focus, but it's okay for what it is). I immediately found -
Members, Trying to get my head around imaging with a DSLR and read that a WEBCAM is actually better for planetary targets due to file size and weight therefore, can I hypothetically use a DSLR afocally but on the record video setting and still separate the frames afterwards, edit and stack? Or would they be too large? 9.25 AVX with Canon 550d Rebel2.
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Having got my new Esprit finally up and running in time for nearly-full Moon, it seemed a shame not to have a go at imaging it! Its been a long time since I did any lunar work (get the excuses in early, I say!). I think the focus was a whisker out on the camera, so had to push a bit harder - but it looks OK from a distance if you squint! 100 frames, 600D, Esprit 100D. Pre-processed in PIPP, Stacked in AS!2, Focus Magic filter in CS5, tweaking of the levels...
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Hey Guys. I was just wondering if it is possible for me, to do PEC training using my Nikon DSLR and the cables that I got? I don't have a guiding setup yet, and I want to wait until the money is there and also getting more used to imaging. I tend to have a very good polar alignment, as the image doesn't drift through each frame, but rather there is a "jerk" or drift every other frame, when doing 2-3 minute subs. I guess that is periodic error, as it happens even on windless nights. So, I have both my Nikon DSLR and my mount hooked up to my pc (the mount through port in the Celestron Adva
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The struggles of a beginner learning how to use the equipment. :-) Pointed mount North and Levelled EQ6 pro mount 8:30 pm Attached wireless release, 2" nose and UHC filter to Nikon DSLR Attached scope and camera, balanced scope for camera use Collimated the telescope -took 40 minutes of messing around Waited until dark. Took the dogs for a walk around the field to pass the time Polar aligned using the mobile app and sighting against Ursa major. Rebalanced DEC for eyepiece rather than camera 3 star alignment. 1st star was way off and took ages t
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After publishing my latest YouTube video showing me bumbling my way through trying to photograph stars from my shed, someone commented I should use a Baader semi-APO filter on my refractor telescope ( explore scientific AR152 ) along with a IR/UV Cut Filter. Using a semi-APO filter makes absolute sense to me, and reading up on them, they look like a really worthy investment. However, as I'm using a basic Astro-modded DSLR camera ( Canon Eos 1300D - I just had the basic mod: single filter removal), the idea of adding a IR/UV Cut Filter is not making sense to me. Wasn't the filter t -
I never had a CCD camera but thinking on the next logical move on a more efficient way of collecting photons. I have a(n admittedly little used) nikon d5100 now and thinking about a monochrome CCD/CMOS camera. A monochrome cooled camera would be I guess even more efficient than an a7s. However, I am traveling a lot, therefore it is imperative that the gear stays airline portable. Does anyone travel with CCD gear? My first candidates are the QHY9 and the ASI1600mm cool, neither weighing more than an average DSLR, even with a filter changer included. Apparently control (autoguide
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Hi.. When I attach the t adapter with barlow to telescope I get a black screen in my nikon d3200 live view . .how to capture image? and how to attach eyepiece and camera?
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They said it couldn't be done! I won't pretend this is perfect but it's 90% of 106 2 minute subs on as astro-modded Canon 450D DSLR using an EQ3 mount at a suburban location, and the transparency last night was poorer than the previous evening. NGC133 and its dust clouds are NOT supposed to be the sort of target you can get with this kit. I know it isn't perfect and doesn't stand up to images with double-figure hours of narrowband subs, but it does have the dusty bits in the right places if compared to Olly's recent image. If I had 20 hours of subs at a dark sky site what would this
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I finally got a decent image of M1, last year all I managed was a blurry fawn blob that looked like something out of the pocket of a duffelcoat.
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I have been wondering, which is the better solution? The A7s and the dedicated ZWO ASI1600mm-cool astrocamera costs roughly the same. Leaving the A7s' Bayer array in place (of course removing the ICF) results that the effective light collecting area for H-alpha is ~1/4th of the total sensor area (~860/4=215mm2). The lucky thing is, that both the Bayer transmission and the cmos sensitivity is great at 656nm. Thanks to the unlucky transmission curves of the green and blue pixels, O-III at 500nm also takes a toll: here we are blessed with 3 pixels of the array (G+B) but both G and B filt
