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Found 160 results

  1. Hi there, could someone please provide depth and thread pitch for the front cell screws on an 8" Edge HD, as in the empty socket portrayed in the attached photo:8" Edge HD, as in the empty socket portrayed in the attached pho Kind Regards Paul J.
  2. Hi there, I'm wondering if any SGL members might have a spare secondary assembly for an 8" EdgeHD. Basically, the previous owner of my Edge did something abominable to the collimation screws which mean that they will not move. I suspect the original owner has used a threadlock product or similar on the collimation screws. I am therefore looking to replace the entire secondary assembly. Shipping the scope off to David Hinds is one possibility and I am pursuing this, however I'm also looking at other options, such as replacing the secondary assembly myself. Kind Regards Paul J.
  3. Anyone have a used BA1-type 15x70 binocular that is surplus to requirement? No problem if it's out of collimation.
  4. A possible solution for the dreaded Bootloader Serial Invalid Pkg 00*0 errors on Celestron HC's, thanks to Carl Randall on the Cloudy Nights forum! Seems to work for all types of mounts (not only AVX)! http://www.cloudynights.com/topic/527834-avx-hand-controller-issue/#entry7058700
  5. Just took a look at the inside of my SCT and there appears to be a lot of dust and what appears to be manufacturing debris on the inside. Its a Celestron C800 CPC and I've no experience on internal cleaning. I don't think I want to chance it either. Does anyone know of a commercial cleaning service?
  6. I'm fairly proud of myself... in a grab and go moment, I ventured out the door for a glimpse at the sky with my Celestron 20x80 binoculars, but couldn't be bothered to setup the tripod. With the Square of Pegasus in front of me I thought it would be a good game to try and fix the Andromeda Galaxy in my view through the binos. Shortly after I had the fuzzy smear of M31 centred in the field of view but my shakey grip on the heavy binos without tripod or in fact any support was beginning to tell - and my neck and arms were beginning to ache too! Having achieved a satisfactory observational aim, I reached for my phone then used the Skysafari Pro app to have a look at and identify the visible star field around me. When I caught sight of the name Uranus on the screen I was intrigued. I had observed the planet before through my 11" scope when it was auto-aligned and picking out objects using the GOTO. I had also had success observing Uranus with a small 3" telescope (Skywatcher 76P) which proved nearly impossible as it had no finder scope or tracking, and was mounted on a bowl (!!!!) - Yes, it's the "Pingu scope" if anyone is familiar with it. But trying to pick out a mag 5.8 object amongst a sea of sparkling stars whilst my arms were shaking like a break-dancer’s under the strain of the mighty 20x80 binos, nearly causing me epilepsy from the jittering image I was peering at, proved to be an entirely different exercise of futility altogether. Determined to avoid a certain divorce if I dared to suggest to my better half I needed image stabilising binoculars, I persisted in trying to locate and centre the gas giant with a bit of tightened elbow control and some star hopping assistance using the Skysafari Pro app to try and pinpoint any mini-asterisms I caught sight of in the view. By chance, a reasonably straight line of stars with another reasonably straight line of stars at near right angles to it was close to a tree line and proved easy to relocate in the binos if I lowered them to give momentary muscle rest and tried to find them on the star map. This is where Skysafari Pro first showed me my most expensive phone app was actually pretty cool! (Apologies to Southern Stars but I always found their twenty-five quid asking price rather steep when there were other similar apps available for free.) Anyway, low and behold, the mini-asterism I has spied in the binoculars just by the treeline showed up on the Skysafari app when I pinched the zoom in and out a bit. What a stroke of luck - I now knew where I was looking and where Uranus was in relation to that spot... Zooming in the display on the phone app, I picked out a star hopping trail I could follow with the binos and end up with Uranus in the field of view. Up with the binos, hop along the stars a bit, back down check the map, and back up with the binos and so on... Following the trail I eventually had the icy world which is currently a little over 19 times further than our Sun from Earth right in view! It was at that moment I suffered a slight spasm in my neck, nearly lost my grip on the binos and almost sent my phone on a drop test too. Then I stepped on the cat who had probably come to investigate why I was ruining his street-cred and decided I'd better pack in my observations before my neighbours get disturbed anymore and think I am a pervert with a giant pair of binoculars prowling around in the dark! Astronomy heh? For those interested, I used some stars in the 'tail of the whale' of Cetus to help locate Uranus... Using Skysafari Pro and starting with '13 Cet' (or 'HIP 2762 A' according to Stellarium) I moved in a straight line to 'HD 2995' ('HIP 2612') and on to '12 Cet' ('HIP 2352'), then the other straight line of stars veering off nearly at a right angle took me to 'HD 2593' (HIP 2312'), 'HD 2612' ('HIP 2323'), 'HD 2830' ('HIP 2496'), continuing upwards until I saw another straight line of equally spaced stars: '15 Cet', '14 Cet' and 'HD 3024' ('HIP 2994', 'HIP 2787', and 'HIP 2641' respectively). I then got a fix on '10 Cet' ('HIP 2100 A') before moving into the constellation of Pisces and finding '44 Psc' ('HIP 2006') and hooking back Eastwards (or left in the bino view) to finally locate the target Uranus. Neptune would have tempted me to brave being arrested for prowling if only it wasn't hidden by the trees, but perhaps that's a blessing? I wish you all clear skies.
  7. Hi All, If anyone is looking for a great telescope, I'm selling my NexStar 8SE. It's in great condition, Optics are immaculate and there is only some signs of use on the dovetail bar and the black rim that has faded a bit on one side. The reason that I'm selling is that I'm looking to upgrade. I had some amazing views of planets and DSO through this scope.... it really is a performer in quite a compact package. This scope was on a CGEM most of it life so the NexStar Alt-Az mount was hardly used. I prefer to have this scope local pickup or I'm happy to deliver and even give a tutorial and demonstration of how to use it.. for that reason I'm targeting a buyer around Sydney Australia. The price I'm asking is $1650AUD. Clear Skies.
  8. Help me understand how this equatorial mount CGE pro own a price tag of 5000 usd? As a beginner; will it be a smart choice for me?
  9. Hey guys,im currently on a school trip and brought my celestron firstscope with, tonight we ll be trying some dsos and maybe saturn and jupiter,the telescope itself is not collimated and dirty (on the mirrors)So I wanted to ask.in the scope, there is no primary adjustment screws,only the ones to take it off .Does that mean that its set , allowing me to take it off wash it and back on without having to recollimate the primary? Thanks Kronos
  10. This was bought new back in 2014. It was used for a short time in our observatory before we decided to get a Mesu 200 in late 2015. Following that, it received little use – we would occasionally get it out for visual work. Further purchases have meant that the CGEM is now not being used at all, and it is time to shift it on. The CGEM is, in most respects, equivalent to an EQ6, although you should be aware that it cannot be used with EQMOD. It comes with the original tripod and a 17 lb counterweight (as shown in the photo). It comes with the 12V cigar plug power cable. • Payload Capacity: 40 lb (18.14 kg) – visual • Computer Hand Control: Double line, 16 character Liquid Crystal Display • 40,000 object database with over 100 user-definable objects and expanded information on over 200 objects I kept the original foam for storing the mount, but the original box has gone. The total weight of the package is not far short of 80 lbs. I don’t know how much it would cost to ship (or quite how I would ship it), so I think collection would be required. I don’t mind driving a reasonable distance to deliver or exchange (maybe we could meet half way). Note that I am also separately selling a Sky Q Link which works with this mount and enables you to control it using an IOS or Android device. £580 The mount is also for sale on UK ABS
  11. Hello everyone ! Im interested in stargazing , but i dont have any expirience. My question is : is celestron powerseeker 70az good enough to see jupiter and saturn rings clearly ?
  12. Hi all, Been a while since I have been on the site – work has been really busy these last 18 months, and although it’s still manic, things are slowing down a bit!! Viewing my previous posts, you will see that I was in the market for a new scope to adorn my EQ3-2 mount that I had purchased ages ago now!! Well, things didn’t turn out as expected, and while I am still hoping to get a scope, hopefully at Christmas if Santa is kind to me (I have been a good boy lol!!) I decided to get a pair of Binoculars to fill the gap! Budget was tight, and I did want a pair of larger aperture bins. A lot of reading up on the internet, and I settled on the Celestron Skymaster 20x80’s. I already have a pair of 10x50’s so was after something with a bit more power, and larger objective’s. The skymasters seemed to fit the bill, and the price was right as well! I dropped into Rother Valley Optics with my cash on the off chance they would have a pair in stock – they didn’t, so I left my details, and less than 24 hours later, Adam from the shop called me to say they had a pair in! I drove over to their shop, tried them out outside the shop, as I had read that some pairs are known to have collimation issues. These where perfect, so I parted with my £99 cash and went home with them! First class service from RVO, and I will be using them again when it comes to getting my scope – thanks guys! So, onto the bin’s. They came double boxed up, and within the branded box inside the plain box, the bin’s were securely packed in foam and wrapped in plastic. They come with a basic carry case, which won’t protect them from hard knocks, but will keep the dust off them while not in use. The eye pieces are protected by a one piece cover, while each large objective is covered by its own, separate cover. There is also a basic neck strap, but it appears quite flimsy, and I won’t be using it. The bins have a built in tripod adaptor, on an adjustable slider, meaning they can be securely attached to a tripod and balanced up. Weight wise, they tip the scales at just over 2.6kg. This isn’t hugely heavy, and while I did use a tripod for some observing, when I wanted to look at things nearer the zenith, I hand held them, and did so for quite some time. I didn’t feel they were overly heavy, even after prolonged use. It seems that new scope curse also affects owners of new binoculars, as I had to wait 5 days for clear skies!! I went out at about 10:30pm into the back garden, and while the side of house has a street lamp directly over the hedge, round the back its cut off, and quite dark. I began by finding M31, which at is currently nearly at the Zenith. I could see the central core clearly, and with some averted vision, make out some finer details in the disk. Moving on to M45, the Pleiades, that was just rising over my neighbours fence – what a sight!! Even though it was quite low down, the cluster filled the view, and I could see loads of fainter stars within it. Moving through the Milkyway, the view was filled with thousands of stars and star clusters!! I was really impressed. I intend to go to a dark sky site up in the Peak District, just north of Ashbourne when time and the weather permit, to get some proper dark sky viewing in! I have not yet been able to look at the Moon or any planets through them – the Moon hadn’t risen by the time I turned in, and is now a very small waning crescent. I will have to wait a bit longer, and will update the review once done. Mars was up, but low in the sky, and due to the street lights, swamped with LP. With terrestrial viewing, they provide bright and crisp views. While there is some CA when looking at things with bright edges, general viewing wasn’t affected in any way. I plan to take them to my local nature reserve to test them out on some wild life as well. I am also a bit of a plane fan, and when time permits I park up near East Midlands Airport to watch the aircraft coming and going – these will be great for that, set up on my tripod for easy viewing! Conclusion – the Skymaster 20x80’s are a decent pair of binoculars. While they don’t have the build quality of more expensive ones, treated well I can see no reason why they won’t last for years. They actually come with a 5 year Celestron guarantee anyway! For causal use when you don’t want to set up the main scope I think these fit the bill nicely, and I would recommend them to anyone. Cheers all Nige
  13. Hi all, was just going through the garage to find something and had come across my dads old Celestron telescope the ,model of the scope says it’s a 21066 wos a. The focal length is 900mm and aperture is 2.3”. Was wondering if any of you knows something about this telescope? I’m guessing it’s not that great. here’s a few pictures of it. Olly.
  14. Hello! i am seeking the help of those with experience in refractors please!! I have been an amateur since i was just a wee lad, i have always owned catadioptric and reflectors of many types, unfortunately short of my current Lunt LS60PT and the department store pea shooter i had as a 12 year old and my which spent way more time peering through windows in the apartment complex across the street than gazing at the sky i have NO experience with refractors. This is where forums like this come in, ok this is what id like to do, my budget is around US1,200, for this i would be looking at a doublet no doubt, i would like it to be in the F5-F7 range? this would offer some flexibility for both visual and future basic AP dabbling. I mainly would like this refractor for planetary, lunar and double star observing, i do hear that nothing beats a refractor for these objects and I'm itching to see for myself. I realize that this budget will not get me an NP101 or any other triplet for that matter, but i would like the best for that price in the 100mm range preferably since id love to stretch its legs on lunar and planetary. i also own a 12" lightbridge but this is definitely not a grab and go scope which is what id love to have now, CA would be an issue not so much for visual but future photo work id like something that performs reasonably well in the CA department. if anyone out there has had much experience with refractors id love to hear from you! Thank you all!!!
  15. Hello stargazers, I've been stalking this forum for a good couple months now in my search for a telescope. My main focus will be the visual observing of planets and DSOs. I like photography might plan that later if possible (i'd like it to be). The skies where i live is somewhat polluted but not so much. I can easily spot most constellations with the naked eye if my drive my car on a hill outside the city. I was thinking about one of the models below. I'd like the get the best bang for the buck and minimize the risk of being disappointed and then wanting a more expensive tube later on. I'd like to learn the sky by heart thus steering clear of a GOTO for now. I'm not going to buy anything right now because I'm putting some hard earned cash in a pair of binos first. My options: (but I'm open to any and all suggestions!) Skywatcher Skymax 150 PRO €569.37 + Skywatcher EQ5 Deluxe €269.02 Objective Lens Diameter: 150mm Telescope Focal Length: 1800mm (f/12) EQ5 because it's a good stable mount that I basically can keep using if I ever upgrade the OTA Skywatcher Skyliner 250PX Dobsonian €463.49 Diameter of Primary Mirror: 254mm Telescope Focal Length: 1200mm (f/4.7) Celestron Omni XLT 127 €647.16 Objective Lens Diameter: 127mm Telescope Focal Length: 1250 mm (f/10) Skywatcher Skymax 127 OTA €274.42 + Skywatcher EQ5 Deluxe €269.02 (Or EQ3-2 for €442.96) Diameter of Primary Mirror: 127mm Telescope Focal Length: 1500mm (f/11.81) I might also get the less stable EQ3-2 for a 100 euros less. But again, the EQ5 is a good investment I believe Skywatcher Explorer 200P EQ5 €504.55 Diameter of Primary Mirror: 200mm Telescope Focal Length: 1000mm (f/5) I got all the prices from FLO. Some questions that I still have: (thanks for staying with me so long) - Would you be able to see some DSOs with anything up from f/10? - Is a dew shield necessary if i live in the Netherlands? - I know its been asked a lot but what eyepieces would you recommend? FLO recommend BSTs. Then again which lengths? I thinks thats all for now:) Thanks so much for checking this post out. Clear skies to you all!
  16. One can perform an All Star Polar Alignment (ASPA) on a Celestron Alt-Az mount on a wedge when using a Nexstar + HC. I get down to a Polar Alignment Error measured in arc-seconds, commensurate with any GEM. This route requires good basic alignment skills. However, if you have mastered a routine 'two star align' it is no more difficult. Just follow the instructions in the HC for an EQNorth, then Polar Align (then conclude with further EQNorth). However, it would be much easier, faster, convenient and GoTos even more accurats if this process was possible with a Starsense auto-align. However, a 'bug' has frustrated wedge owners for nigh on three years. Starsense works fine on a GEM or Alt-Az, but not on a wedge, UNTIL NOW. The good news is that Celestron has fixed the bug in the Starsense HC wedge routine and the updated firmware is in beta-test via TeamCelestron. A public release is imminent. Like the Nexstar + HC this routine offers a complete ASPA including software aided elimination of any residual Polar Alignment Error (e.g. firmware tells you the knob adjustment necessary). The other good news is that Simulation Curriculum has fixed a similar bug in the SkyPortal APP (not yet fixed in the SkySafari APP). Here you set 'Starsense Auto-Align' and 'Starsense on wedge' via the SkyPortal APP then set your wedge to your latitude; then tube to its index marks pointing South. Then <connect & align>. This offers an excellent Starsense Auto-Align on a severely leaning mount. GoTo's are highly accurate. I then tracked VEGA for over an hour without any noticeable drift, suffice for modest length longer exposure astrophotography provided your mount is level, your wedge latitude correct and your Tube start point South. However, this is NOT an ASPA. This routine does not guide you to do any final tweaks to eliminate any residual PAE error. It hence won't be quite as accurate as any "polar align" performed by the HC. But for those with modest aspirations that like using Starsense via WiFi APP, it will be pretty good. However, what you can now do is first use a Nexstar + HC to complete an ASPA. Return tube to its index marks on the now physically polar aligned wedge/mount. Recycle power; and proceed with a Starsense auto-align using either HC or WiFi/tablet. So you then have the benefit of an accurate ASPA plus the subsequent joy of Starsense superior GoTo accuracy. It is a great compromise. When the Starsense HC bug firmware release is in the public domain, I will add to this thread. Hope this guidance is helpful to wedge owners with Starsense.
  17. Hi I am new to astrophotography and photography in general. I have a celestron 130 slt and a nikon d5300 with t ring and extension tube, I am able to connect this all up and focus on planets when the are very small I get little to no detail as it gets blurry when I use higher lenses so I was wondering is it possible to use the lens (18-55mm) I got with my nikon aswell to zoom in when I have clear small image? Thanks
  18. Hi everyone, I seem to have an issue with my NS camera that I can't figure out. Whenever I take a picture, every bright object in it, especially stars, have a black shadow on the right part of the image. I have disregarded the effect coming from the telescope or reflections from outside, because the shadow always appears on the right, regardless the angle of the camera with respect to the telescope. The effect is very apparent when I'm focusing. I have attached several pictures to see if someone can give me a hint: - ...004: focusing street lights - ...006 Calibration (Dark) - ...008 Calibration (Bias) - ...010 Calibration (Flat): pointing to a street light and trees - ...013 Focusing a star - ...019 Picture of street lights - ...003 Focusing a bright star - ...5420 Picture of a star field
  19. Hello from central Oklahoma! Though it's not the darkest sky I've ever lived in, being somewhat on the edge of OKC means the sky to the North & West gets some pretty good views on many nights, so I can observe from my back yard. I've had an interest in astronomy since I was very young, raised on lots of science fiction, and my dad bought for me a telescope before I was a teen. I still use this scope, though it was in an attic in Missouri for years before I picked it back up one time a few years ago. It's only been used intermittently since then, but I'm starting to get more into observing these days. Hoping to invest in a larger aperture telescope in the next 6 months to a year, which will give me time to pick one and commit finances!
  20. Hi all, So, Im trying to reset the location on my 6SE, and its not giving me the option to set the Long/Lat of the scope. It merely gives me a list of cities to choose from. Where on earth am i going wrong? Do i need to do the firmware update that i have been dreading? Thanks in advance! C
  21. Hi everyone! I´m upgrading my gear to a Celestron CGEM equatorial mount. I´m sure many people here would say it´s a great mount! I have a problem related to Lima-Peru´s city latitude, which is below the mount´s latitude range (which is 15° - 70°). Lima city is at 12° latitude, any ideas on how to reach them with this mount? I read about this two alternatives: 1. Extending one of the tripod´s legs to tilt the mount a little bit, adding some weights on the other 2 tripod legs to avoid the telescope to fall... 2. Buying a wedge, which have 0° - 90° latitude range, and place the equatorial mount over it. What do you think? Thanks!
  22. Hi After selling all my equipment some time ago I have now started the hobby again with a C925 on an AVX mount. Last night was my first chance to try out the Starsense Accessory, which seemed to work quite well. However I was a bit concerned that when doing the calibration for the SSA camera position and during the Polar Alignment routine the tracking seemed very jerky at higher magnifications. The video I took of Jupiter after alignment did not seem to show this (although poor in all other ways) so I don't know if the jerkiness is something to do with tracking mode used by the SSA handset during alignment. It could also be a mount fault or poor balance but I would expect that to show in the video? Has anyone else experienced this? Thanks Barry
  23. Hello all, I bought relatively recent a SCT 0.63 reducer/flattener for my C6. I'm planning to use it with the ASI1600 camera, but it seems that I can't figure out the proper spacing distance between the reducer and the sensor. That or there's another problem with the scope that I can't figure out. The first distance that I tried was ~105mm. I achieved this by using a SCT adapter to T2 which is 50mm + a Baader VariLock set to ~28mm + the filterwheel 20mm + 6.5mm the distance from the sensor to the camera thread. + the filter width, it should be ~105mm. I understood that the closer the sensor is placed to the flattener, the better the field is flattened, but the reduction is weaker. I didn't mind that. I then tried to use an M48 (has also a T2 thread inside and deeper) to T2 adapter which was about 15-20mm. In both cases the stars were not in focus away from the center, with an out of focus elongation towards the edges (I don't know which word describes this). The following M13 is with the Baader VariLock and the Crescent was with the shorter adapter. I didn't have time to test without adapter at all and now it's going to stay cloudy for a while. Don't mind the quality, the M13 is unguided with ~20min (6s subs), the Crescent is ~20min (1min subs), guided. Very bad seeing. Did anyone use a C6 with a 0.63 reducer/flattener and APS-C or 4/3 sensor with success? Or does somebody know which is the correct backfocus distance and how to get rid of the distorted stars towards the edges, but still using the same scope + flattener? Many thanks and clear skies, Alex
  24. Hi Guys, I am selling some of my stuff as listed below: Celestron Nexstar 127SLT in pristine condition, no mark etc. It comes with two standard celestron eyepieces, hand controller and red dot finder... £279 £259 Collection only Celestron Starsense Autoalign -boxed. Although I am not selling both brackets. All what I am selling is shown in the photo... £189 £165 can be posted and buy pays pp -Sold Celestron Skymaster 25x70 -boxed. Used only few times, I would call these as brand new.... £49 can be posted and buy pays pp -Sold Orion Starshoot Autoguider - boxed. I have Orion Deep space colour camera which I am going to use for guiding so selling Autoguider. £179 £149 can be posted and buy pays pp- Sold Collection only... small items can be posted Any questions please feel free to ask, I put these only ABS as well.
  25. Hi. In preperation for a remote box-observatory i have been setting up a pc for telescope controll and more. I now have Kubuntu working with a ssh tunnel and headless vnc setup. KStars is installed with all necesarry drivers for my celestron avx, eos 550d and orion autoguider. Everything starts up in KStars and i have controll over all the exuiptment, except! The issue. 1. When slewing to an object using the nextstar hc on the mount: Recticle in KStars moves in the same path as the telescope, and ends up at desired target. 2. When slewing to a RA/DEC coordinate in INDI control panel -> Eq.Coordinates: Recticle moves as excpected and ends up on target. 3. When selecting a target in KStars gui, right clicking and selecting slew or track in mounts context menu: All kinds of craisyness.... The recticle moves erratic. Sometimes to high in the sky, and sometimes down in the ground. At one point i ended with the counterweight bar straight up and the scope pointing more or less at polaris, when telling it to slew to the zenith. The strange thing is that the recticle in KStars is pointing where the teleskope is pointing. So KStars "knows" that it's not pointing the scope at the target i selected, but it keeps on going. I was thinking it could be some time-site issue, but the t-s is set up in INDI control panel. Using INDI to slew manually, everything works as expected. Not 100% sure how the sync option works in KStars. Could i have synced to some random place in the sky and "un"calibrated KStars? Don't know how to undo it if that's the case. New to KStars and INDI. Hope someone can help with this issue. Magnus.
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